Spotlight - The Famous Miyako Odori Ensemble
This is a topic that’s been requested a few times before, but I wanted to make it a spotlight rather than a “What’s That Thing?” as it’s such an important topic that hasn’t had much written in English about it.
Also, the people who helped me research all of this were the people who have actually worn these outfits themselves, the maiko and geiko of Gion Kobu! I have been asked to keep their names a secret, but I cannot even begin to thank them for the time and effort even they put into finding some of this information! I also have to thank their many patrons who also helped to mediate the process! If an image does not have a source underneath it is because I have received permission to post them and the original sources have asked to remain anonymous.
With that said, let’s start back at the beginning!
As written about numerous times before, the first Miyako Odori took place in 1872, but it’s hard to say really when the famous blue kimono and red obi came into being due to a lack of documentation. However, we know that it came into being before the end of the 19th century, so it’s history is quite long.
For the most part, it’s kept the same colors and overall shapes since its inception. Only one thing actually changes on both the kimono and the obi each year: the motifs.
In keeping with the old traditions of Ryōzuma (両褄), which means “Mirror Image,” the kimono carry the traits of the Late Meiji/Early Taisho style of pattern placement that was vogue at the time. Each side of the kimono, including the sleeves, is almost an identical copy of the other.The obi usually carries an independent theme that remains bright and cheerful. The designs for each year are agreed upon ahead of time, usually up to a year in advance, and feature the wonderful yuzen craftsmanship and Nishijin weaving that Kyoto is known for. The designs are chosen by the Inoue iemoto, Yachiyo Inoue, and usually reflect some form of anniversary for an important shrine or symbols that are considered lucky. Because of this yearly change it’s easy to match a kimono and obi to a specific year! So, before we look at differences, let’s look at the current design for 2018:
2018 features Kichō (几帳), which are partitions used by the nobility during the Heian Period. I’ve explained them a bit before here. The obi, oddly enough, is from 2016 (someone must have switched it at the last minute!) showcases bright Kusudama (薬玉), which I’ve also spoken about here and here.
As a comparison, this is what stays the same year after year:
Kimono:
-Shidarezakura (枝垂桜 - Trailing Cherry Blossoms) and Yanagi (柳 - Willow) that adorn the shoulders. The flowers are always white, red, pink, and yellow while the willow are white and green. There’s also small little willow buds in red that are scattered around. Originally it was just a few cherry blossoms, but the current design has been in place since 1950 to match the special props that are used each year for the dances.
-Red hakkake (inner lining) and false red sleeves
-Pink hiyoku (added hem) and false pink sleeves
-Red eri (collar) woven with gold thread
-Blue and pink koshihimo to hold the kimono up while on stage
-Tucks in the sleeves and shoulders reminiscent of maiko (the original performers who wore this on stage were all maiko. Nowadays both maiko and geiko wear it.)
Obi:
-Red base
-Crest of Gion
You may have noticed that one very important aspect under kimono is missing: the color. That’s because it hasn’t always been blue! Yes, for the majority of its inception it has been blue, but there have been some years where two different background colors have been used! The most common “other” color prior to World War II was white, whereas afterward it was green! For some years the jikata geiko also wore the famous kimono, but in black!
A green version from 1978 from Abbey J.
Some years back a kimono seller managed to get a hold of one of the rare black ones that was unfinished and sold off since they had too many made. It was from 2009. I may be a bit biased, but 2009′s design is my absolute favorite ^^!
For those of you who have asked this question a few times and for the people who may have noticed how much it stood out in the above breakdown, the kamon featured on the obi is very unusual and can only be found on these obi nowadays as it is the original kamon for the Gion district when it was first founded. Up close, it looks like this:
The main kamon in the middle is taken from Yasaka Shrine (八坂神社), as it was due to the shrine’s presence that a kagai managed to spring up. The leaves and flowers surrounding it are meant to represent the flowers of Gion, that is, the maiko and geiko who call the district home.
So, what does it look like all put together?
Image from the 1950s courtesy of Blue Ruin.
Image from 2007 courtesy of Melissa Chase.
As you can see, whether in black and white or in color, the effect it has while on stage is breathtaking! Hopefully one day you’ll be able to see them up close and in person ^^!
