Just a cute lil worker from summers past.
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Just a cute lil worker from summers past.

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A few snapshots at work, with filters added.
Smartphone cameras are NOT getting worse. (See below for phone photography tips)
I've now seen 3 pro photographers reviewing the iPhone 16 and complaining the cameras are "worse" and blaming Apple for not including revolutionary new camera technology.
And I suppose this is partly Apple's fault. Their marketing and hype machine always goes overboard. But also, that's just how marketing works. Samsung has a "200 megapixel" sensor and Sony has a "Zeiss" lens. And I think it is unrealistic to expect smartphone companies to say "This product has entered the iterative phase and each new model will only be marginally improved over the last one."
Smartphones (from any brand) have become an appliance. You don't buy a new model of microwave every year. And you don't expect every new model of microwave to have new revolutionary technology. And that is pretty much the expectation you should have with most computer hardware from here on out.
And in some ways, that is a good thing. That means the design of the phone has pretty much been perfected and it will last you a long time if you take care of it. You will not be left behind and your phone will be able to handle any new software for most of its lifespan.
So, is Apple getting lazy or is there a reason their hardware is stagnating?
It seems that neither money nor marketing can change the laws of physics.
Some people think panoramas need to be these long wide slivers of many stitched photos. But if you are too close you can just stitch 2 or 3 photos together to get the entire scene.
One pano tip, if you have people in the scene, put them in their own single photo so the stitch is more seamless.
And there are plenty of apps (including Lightroom and Photoshop) that do the stitching automagically. Takes just a few seconds.
Trying to get a good shot of a wary crane.

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Taken on my phone from work.
Just a few shots from my lovely wife and my vacation in St. Kitts this spring.Â
Photography Tricks Anyone Can Do.
@i-dont-believe-in-saints this seems relevant to your interests
Now THIS is the sort of photography tutorial Iâve been waiting for!
Friends after a delightful brunch.
That was a beautiful sky. Iâm glad i could catch it.

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More works shots, in color this time!
Experimenting with black and white, and portrait shots with the only model patient enough for my work, myself. I know my backdrop is wrinkled. Some days you just have to do what you can. I had about 4x5 foot space for both myself and my equipment, and very very limited resources for backdrops. Actually thatâs just a sheet pulled from a storage bin, doubled up and stuffed under a drop ceiling to hang it.
A few black and whites I took at work today. I like photographing heavy equipment. Donât really know why. its just an interesting thing to me. A little glimpse at something a lot of people donât really see up close. I really like the johnboat in its superman pose as well.Â
Some people just gotta have their gogo juice.
Old barn on some family land. Lots of childhood memories there.

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Exposure: The beginning of a great photo Sill Level: Beginner
Getting a proper exposure is at the heart of all photography. I will now attempt to explain it in the simplest terms possible.
The Basics
You camera has a sensor.
This sensor collects light. Too much light and the image is bright or âoverexposed.â Not enough light and your image is dark or âunderexposed.â
There are 3 main elements that determine your exposure: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO.Â
Aperture
The aperture is just an adjustable hole inside your lens that lets in light.
The bigger the hole, the more light it can let in. The smaller the hole, the less light it can let in.
Aperture is measured in f-stops. This indicates the size of the hole. Though it seems backwards, a lower number means a bigger hole. A higher number means a smaller hole.
Your lens will be rated with its maximum aperture. So if it is a â17-55mm f/4 lensââthat means f/4 is the biggest hole it can make. Most lenses can go to f/22, which would be the smallest hole it can make.
A âfast lensâ is one that has a very large maximum aperture. These lenses have an f-stop of 2.8 or lower. They are great for doing photography in low light.Â
A large aperture (low f-stop number) can also give you shallow depth of field. This allows you to make your background blurry to better isolate your subjects.Â
This is a very desirable thing for many photographers, so they try to get the fastest lens they can.Â
Shutter Speed
Shutter speed is how long your sensor is exposed to light. Think of two sliding doors in front of the sensor. They open, let in light, and then close. A fast shutter speed lets in very little light. A slow shutter speed lets in a lot of light.
Shutter speed is measured in seconds. A fast shutter speed will be a fractional value, like 1/500th of a second. A slow shutter speed can be entire seconds.
Your camera might display fractions as just the bottom number in the fraction. So 1/500th would just show as 500. Whole seconds will have a double quotation mark after. So 5 seconds will appear as 5".Â
Faster shutter speeds let in less light, but will allow you to freeze action.
Slower shutter speeds let in more light, allowing you to take images in darker environments. With a long enough exposure, you can make night look like day.Â
With slow shutter speeds you risk your image blurring due to your hands shaking the camera or movement of the subjects in your photos. So if you do a long exposure, you will almost certainly need a very still subject and a tripod.
There is a formula for keeping camera shake from blurring your photo. You just put 1 over the length of your lens. So if your lens is 50mm, you need a shutter speed of 1/50th or faster. Note: This will not stop blurring due to your subject moving.Â
ISO
ISO is the amplification of your sensor. Similar to the volume knob on your radio, ISO amplifies the sensitivity of the sensor so you can increase your shutter speed or make your aperture smaller. It makes the light âlouder.â However, this can come at a cost. The more you amplify the sensor, the more noise will show up in your image.
Some cameras can go to a very high ISO and have very little noise. These cameras are usually frickinâ expensive. As technology advances, cheaper cameras get better and have less noise at higher ISOs.
Getting the Balance
A proper exposure requires balancing aperture, shutter speed, and ISO to get your desired result.
To get shallow depth of field youâll need a large aperture. So you make your f-stop the lowest number possible. But that lets in a lot of light, so you need a fast shutter speed to balance it out.Â
To take a long exposure, your shutter speed will now let in a ton of light. To keep from overexposing you may need to make your aperture very small so the image does not overexpose.Â
If it is darker and things are moving, youâll need a fast shutter speed and a large aperture. But you canât get a fast enough shutter speed to avoid blur. So you raise your ISO to amplify the light, allow you to get the proper exposure, and keep your subjects from blurring. Yes, it will cause your image to have some noise, but it is a worthy compromise to get the image you desire.Â
Photography is often about making compromises. Sacrificing a little bit of quality in one area to create the intended effect with a proper exposure. Learning this balancing act can take years to truly master and in further posts I will go deeper into how to figure out how to get the best exposure possible for any situation.Â
TL;DR
Exposure is the amount of light captured on your sensor or film
Not enough light = underexposed
Too much light = overexposed
Aperture is the hole in your lens that lets in different amounts of light
A large hole is a small f-stop
A small hole is a large f-stop
A large hole creates shallow depth of field (sharp subject, blurry background)
A shutter opens and closes to expose your sensor for different amounts of time
A fast shutter speed freezes motion, but lets in less light
A slow shutter speed lets in a lot of light, but can cause motion blur if subject is not still
ISO is the amplification of the sensor
HIGH ISO makes the image brighter, but creates noise
LOW ISO makes the image darker, but gives you the cleanest result
Photos by Froggie
You can find me here: [tumblr | wishlist]
Photographer Jodee Ballâs 6 tips for perfect portraits are:Â
an S-shaped pose
a Âź turn away from the camera
careful hand placement
lowered shoulders
a bent knee
and a slightly tilted head.
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