The BackRoader

The only place open in Enrich was a wine bar, with stiff black suited waiters, chandeliers and white table clothes that look as white as snow. My mum and I hover near the door, aware of our scruffy fluro coats and trainers, our sweaty, sunburnt faces and unwashed smell. We don't fit in here, but there is no choice, this is the only place to eat in town. 

One waiter moves towards us, smiling uncertainly. We are seated, our oil stained coats hung on special pegs among smart summer tailored jackets, and a wine menu thicker than my arm is presented to us. The cheapest wine in 30 euros a glass. We look at each other, restraining giggles, and when the waiter approaches us, we feel like the biggest frauds ever ordering two beers and a plate of chips. 

Who bikes down the Moselle, through the most splendid wine region in the world and orders... beer? You can see it cross the mind of our neighbours at the restaurant. But who can argue with your body craving a cold beer after a day of cycling in the hot sun.

My mum and I decided to cycle the Moselle on a whim; we were interested in the Rhine or the Danude; something flattish and easy to navigate for two people who hadn't toured much. Then, idly researching one evening, I saw a picture of the steep, vine covered hillsides and two cyclists grinning at each other over a glass of wine. That was it! Perfect. 

There was (quaintly) a book in the library on the route, but very little online, so planning was quite difficult. We decided  fly into Bonn, pick up some hire bikes, cycle down the Rhine until it snakes off into the Moselle River just outside of Koblenz, and then take the Moselle as it meanders all the way to Luxembourg City. The first issue was hiring bikes; it was almost impossible to find anywhere to hire them from without also hiring a package holiday. We wanted to do it ourselves; we didn't want someone taking out stuff and booking the hostels for us. In the end I contacted a bike shop in Neuwied and they agreed to rent us out some bikes for the trip. 

The Moselle is a beautiful river. It meanders through steep hillsides and deep valleys, that at times rise up into a dramatic ravine. It's sides are covered in vineyards so steep you need ropes to pick the fruit. Each twist of the river presents a town more picturesque than the next; traditional dark beamed houses, with flower boxes overflowing, cobbles and fountains, and tiny churches. Every stop is waffles and cream and exquisite coffee, and of course, there was wine. 

It was not only an amazing cycle ride, but also a relaxing holiday. We'd both been busy at work, so it was a great way to get away from everything.  The route, following a river, was flat and easy to navigate, helped with fantastic signposts everywhere provided by the german government. With relatively few big roads or cities, it felt easy to slip into a relaxed, slow pace of life that immediately felt like being on holiday. 

We flew into Bonn, and stayed in the fantastic hostel BaseCamp Bonn, where you get your own personalised van to sleep in. We had a hippy van with it's own flower garden, and my mum regailed me with stories about her 60's youth which were probably too detailed. They also had a converted train carriage to sleep in, if you so wished. 

The next morning, we set off down the Rhine on the Rhine Cycle Path. This is totally off-road, and follows the giant meandering curves of the river south. I recommend the Dragon Hills as a superb place to stop off at on this stretch; it's a steep climb (or a train ride up if you're feeling lazy) up to incredible views over the Rhine valley. We locked our bikes at the bottom and walked up, powering past the train with contempt. The views over the Rhine valley were well worth the climb, and the apple strudel and coffee at the top was a brilliant incentive too. 

From here, we stayed the night in Koblenz, admiring the huge statue of Emperor William l that overlooks the town, which today stands as a celebration of German reunification. While you’re there, don’t miss the oldest timber framed house in Germany, the Abteihof in Kobern-Gondorf, which dates from 1320. 

Koblemz is also where the Moselle river starts. We rose early, and joined other commuters onto the the Moselle Cycle Path towards Luxembourg City. 

The route along the Moselle was almost entirely off road. We spent the first day whooping as we plunged down steep valleys, under the spectacular Moseltalbrücke suspension bridge, and goggled at the vertical train tracks that dangled down the sides of the ravine, used for workers to pick the grape vines, which cling at near impossible angles to the slopes. Maybe the sheer insanity of having vineyards on the cliff-like sides of the ravine give the wine of the region a little extra je ne sais quoi.

There were some fantastic things to see on the way. I recommend stopping at Cochem, which is like a fairytale town- set around the river, it is a mix of cobbled streets and traditional old houses, overlooked by the stunning Cochem Castle, which sits high on hill overlooking the town. The castle is a classic disney style one, with turrets and towers that turn into a magnificent silhouette against the setting sun. We took a cable car up the opposite peak to watch the sunset over the town. 

Then there is Trier, Germany's oldest town, with Roman baths to visit and over flowing with historical sites and buildings, The Imperial Thermal Baths (Kaiserthermen) are the highlight but other attractions include the medieval Hauptmarkt square, St. Gangolf's Church, the Red House, the Porta Nigra, the Benedictine Abbey of St. Matthew and the fortified residential towers. We stayed in the youth hostel there and were greeted with a amazing breakfast spread; a continental breakfast of your dreams with at least 6 different types of cheese, fresh bread, fruit salad, meats, eggs, pastries, fresh orange juice and wonderful coffee. For a hungry cyclist, this was a highlight on the trip. 

Along the route, there are some gorgous old towns to visit, such as Enrich or Bernkastel. which is famous for its medieval timber framed houses and the market square is a perfect spot for lunch. Every town is fantastic for the local delicacy of apple pie and cream. There are castles galore too- you can see Klotten, Bischofstein and Thurant in the first bit between Koblenz and Cochem, while further down, you can visit the ruined castle of Metternichs.

There is also many vineyards to visit. I am not a natural wine drinker, but I recommend visiting- if not stopping for a sample glass at some of these.  The wine yards of Trittenheim and Neumagen-Dhron are some of the oldest wine-growing places. Around Cochem, there are the steepest wineyards in the world.  Zell is a wonderful wine growing village too. 

You finally end up at the small town of Schengen on the tri-country border with Germany and Luxembourg, well known as the place where the treaty providing open borders throughout Europe was signed. This feels super historic and perfect; one side of the bridge is France and Germany, one side Luxembourg- it just goes to show unimportant borders really are. We took the obvious- one foot in germany/one foot in france picture, and then set off for the final stretch.

  It was a spectacular cycle ride in to Luxembourg city. Luxembourg City is full of surprises. As you cycle into the centre, you pass some dizzying views of the Alzette River gorge – flanked by spiky-spired houses and battle-worn 17th-century ramparts. 

Luxembourg City first served as a fortress – although it was unable to defend itself against foreign powers for hundreds of years. It was controlled by various Spanish, French, Austrian and Prussian armies from the 15th century, with that imposing river gorge serving as a natural barricade. And now those tumultuous territorial clashes are over, modern-day Luxembourg City actually celebrates its battle wounds – the most spectacular of which is the Alzette gorge’s honeycomb of old military tunnels, hewn over centuries by pick axe and gunpower. They once sheltered hundreds of soldiers, who would poke their cannons through shadowy openings to fire on marauding forces in the valley below. Today, you can poke your head through those same nooks to gaze over one of Europe’s most picturesque, peaceful – and underrated – capitals. 

Luxembourg revels in its multicultural roots: everything from its architecture to the local dress sense is a happy mish-mash of French, German and Dutch influence. The menu might be in Luxembourgish, but your waitress might take your order in French. Dinner could be a hearty Flemish stew or a crispy flammkuchen with lardons and onions, just like in Germany. 

"You're missing a beautiful sunrise" I announce to the three silent tents, dewy and pale in the dawn. No replies. 

"Guys" I say louder. "it's amazing" A grunt from one, I hear Harley turn over in his sleeping bag. We're meant to be up and out of camp in half an hour. Better change tack. 

"You're missing the most amazing 'gram ever guys." I say even louder. That gets them. Alex's head appears out of the tent. Harley, phone in hand, is up. Joanna in her flip flops and socks, Sven with his long hair sticking up in all directions. Know your audience, everyone.

It was a beautiful sunrise though; we were camped high up , looking down on a valley filled with golden mist. The lower hills were navy blue, fading into bands of azure. The high peaks behind are peach and pink, dusted with gold sun, the mist turning bright as the light hit it. The alps wake up beautifully. It was going to be a hot day of climbing, and it was time to get up and get on the bikes.

We were taking a week off work to do the Alpe Adria trail, a gravel route that runs from Salzburg in Austria over the alps and into Italy, ending up on the Italian Coast at Grado- though we were detouring to finish in the more spectacular Venice. The trail took a lot of digging to find, but proclaimed itself to be the “best cycle trail" in Europe. I didn’t need much more persuasion than that. So, with my twin sister, Joanna, our boyfriends Sven and Tim, and two friends- Harley and Alex- we set off in September. 

Flying into Salzburg through a whole series of thunderstorms, we set off to our airbnb in stormy wet darkness, and rolled into camp soaked through. So much for missing rainy season.

 In the morning, we were greeted with the sound of frantic rain fall, lashing against the windows of the airbnb. We peered outside, and then flopped back into bed. It wasn't going to be a pleasant ride today. Two coffees, breakfast and a pack of early haribo later, we climbed reluctantly onto our laden bikes and set off into the downpour. It was mountain rain; heavy and soaking, but not too cold. We pedalled through a gloomy seeming Salzburg, admiring a castle which slid out of the cloud for a few moments, and some pretty architecture. Salzburg is (I assure you) one of the most beautiful cities in Europe, but the cloud cover sat at 5 metres up, so my only recollection of it was greyness and the feeling of my waterproof giving out at the elbows. Then we climbed out of the city and into the mountains. 

The alps are beautiful. The route winds between some of Austria's tallest mountains, prettiest alpine scenery, most stunning villages and down some fantastic bike paths. Sometimes I had to pinch myself to remind myself that I was actually living this. We rolled into Hallstatt on the first day, greeted by scenery so stunning it looked like it was out of Lord of the Rings rather than Austria. The tiny medieval town sits right on the dark shores of lake Hallstatt, tucked under vertical cliffs of granite and sheer pine forests. The lone church tower soars into misty air, reflected by the dark waters of the lake. Even in low cloud and rain, the place is serene and magical. The town itself is a riot of colourful quaint wooden houses on steep streets, with no cars allowed. Even the Spar- where we spent an abnormally long time buying "grobes brot" (big bread) filled with chocolate and poppy seeds and as dense as a brick- was prettified, subtly hidden behind a deaccession.   

This magical experience was cut short by the angry owner of the campsite, who was so furious that we'd want to stay at his campsite that he shouted at our only german speaker (sven) and slammed his door in our face. We googled the campsite later to see that this was that average greeting for anyone who wanted to camp there, with comments such as:  "For some reasons, as soon as the receptionist saw us, he was shouting as us and told us to get out", "The ground keeper was offensive and clearly didn't want us to be there from the moment we started to talk with him"  "the owner is rude and crazy and does not like young people" "The receptionist was utterly unfriendly, quite aggressive and unpleasant from the beginning with no apparent reason." I recommend avoiding Campingplatz Klausner-Höll! 

All was forgiven the next morning, as we rose to see a wonderful misty sunrise over the lake, with sunlight pouring over the peaks onto the serene lake.  We spent a long time having coffee and pasties on the shore of the lake, unable to leave the beauty. Eventually the crowds of tourists shipping in on buses got too much to bear, so we set off out of the valley and over to Werfen. 

The ride was a bit like the sound of music; green pastures and cows with bells, trees just turning yellow, and beyond this all, the awe inspiring granite peaks of the alps- blue-black silhouettes against the blue sky. We spent the day on bike paths, slowly climbing and descending several small passes, and stopping for coffee, cake and ice-cream whenever we came across the next charming town. Progress was slow but appetites were satiated. 

We took a day off in Werfen,a tiny town which sits in the shadow of the incredible "Hochkogel”, a 2000m high mass of sheer granite. Even their stunning Hohenwerfen castle, sitting pearched on a precipice of 600m,  looks like a toy town in comparison. There is plenty to do around there- you can hike up to Hitlers holiday home, or drive out to some spectacular waterfalls. We opted to see the Ice caves, the worlds biggest. It was an epic just to get up to them- a 20min bus up a steep, windy mountain path, then a 15 minute cable car, and another 20 minute walk up and up to a giant gaping hole int he side of the mountain. The ice cave was pretty...cool, excuse the pun- towering ice sculptures formed by cold air getting trapped in the cave. Lit by eerie magnesium, and directed by funny tour guides, it was worth the freezing feet. Bring something warm though!

After this, we cycled over to the incredible Badgastien. The cycle ride spent most of the time on the valley floor, passing ravines and sheer mountainsides, clear waters and immaculate gravel bike paths the whole way. Badgastine is fantastic- other than it's name, which allows for many jokes about farts- it is an unmissable stop. The town sits on a ravine, separated by a waterfall. It was biggest climb of the trip coming up into Badgastien; you edge up a mountainside at a steady pace, winding up through the town with the view spreading out on to one side. We stopped for photos and a great coffee half way up, gazing at the waterfall falling between houses built on vertical sides. After several hours of climbing, you are rewarded with a train journey over the summit, and then an amazing 10km steep downhill, wiggling down alpine paths to the valley floor. We camped just outside of Spitall an da drau, and found the best pizza of the trip in a back alley tennis club pizza joint. If you get a chance, definitely visit Tennishalle, the pizzas were divine.  

From here, we passed through Villach, and off to the Italian border. We had quite a time at the Italian border, I was so excited at getting there I promptly rode into a concrete pillar and fell off, along with all my bags and water bottles, which got the attention of the snoozing border guards. We stopped for selfies and haribo, feeling extremely proud of ourselves. There was a man waiting there who showed us how to gesture like an Italian- it's apparently all in the shoulders.  

We raced off to the first town we could see to get out first Italian Snack (fresh bread, coffee and ice cream) There had been much excitement throughout the trip about reaching Italy and having Italina food. We couldn't wait to carb load with pizza, bread, ice-cream, and pasta. It did not disappoint. From the Italian border, we rode almost of the alps on an 80km downhill which blew my mind. It followed the old Pontebbanna train route,  but it had been perfectly tarmac-ed, so cycling was an absolute joy. It was the stuff of every cyclists dream. A long downhill, perfect surface, completely off road, wiggling through tunnels and over bridges, following a spectacular ravine down to the sea, with views of distant lofty peaks. It was the best day of the trip, and perhaps of any cycling I've done. 

We took a day off in Venzone, at an icy cold, clear glacier lake called Lago De Cavasso. Camping on it's shores, with beer and pizza mere steps away at the campsites restaurant, we spent a perfect rest day chilling out and attempting to swim (but running out screaming after a few seconds in the icy glaciated water) 

From Verzone, we headed out of the alps to Udine, and over the flat (boring) farmland to Venice. We took a ferry into Venice, sailing up the grand canal in a purple sunset. You aren't allowed to take bikes into Venice officially, but we sneaked them in anyway and walked them through the narrow cobbled streets to our Airbnb in the dead of night.

That evening, after a 120km last leg, we gorged on local pizza, sitting on the banks of a canal in the jewish quarter of Venice. All we could hear was water and the noises of each other devouring our pizzas. It was truly a good end to a trip that tested out taste buds as much as our legs. 

I went Mtbing by myself in the dark yesterday. 

I had been meaning to go with a group, but due to cancelled trains I arrived too late to join them. I was pissed; I’d be hankering after an MTB ride all week and now I couldn’t go.

Or could I?

We are taught to be afraid of the dark. As children, stories tell us that monsters and hunters hide in the depths of it. We stay in the warm away from the wolves and night crawlers. As women, it is even more hammered in; if you go out at night you will be attacked, raped, murdered, and it’ll be your fault because you are out at night alone. A recent trend on twitter asking what women would do if all men had a 9pm curfew highlighted this for me. Imagine going out at night with no fear of attack. Being able to enjoy the night time, the stars, the quietness without being haunted by fear. 

I stood in the train station and debated it. How many murderers and rapists wander around the out of town woods on a cold, windy Thursday looking for victims? Probably none. You are more likely to be attacked walking home in the suburban streets than biking in the night time woods, I told myself. So I went. The first few moments as I turned off the well-lit roads into the countryside were frightening. The darkness was huge, overwhelmingly so. It loomed on all sides, and pressed down on my front light so it seemed a tiny beacon in the darkness. A glance behind showed nothing but black. It was silent, contrasting to the busy highway. The quiet was so huge, it seemed like an ominous watching presence. I pedalled furiously through the woods, panting, making it up the hill in record time, my heart pumping with panic. Hedgerows rustled menacingly. Tree branches distorted into shapes. My bike was abnormally noisy, calling out to the watching dark, alerting it of my presence. 

After 15 minutes I began to feel used to it. My eyes adjusted to the dark. There was a bright moon out, which buttered everything in a white glow. There were hundreds of stars out too, glittering over the treetops. I could see rabbits hopping across the trail, hear owls hooting just out of sight. Once, a deer sprang out in front of me and darted off into the night. The shapes of distant hills pressed silver against the sky. 

The darkness began to feel exciting rather than terrifying. It was safe out here, in the dark hills. No one else was out on the trails. There were just trees, and animals going about their nocturnal lives. I was alone, in the wild. It felt exhilarating, empowering. I had nothing to be scared of in the woods. I powered off on the downs trail, cresting the black wave of the hillside. On one side, lay a misty Hassocks, light flooded in fog. On the other was a sparkling Brighton and the sea. Everything was silvery in moonlight.

Once I got over the fear of the dark, Mtbing was  fun. It was harder than day, obviously, as judging the surface of the road was more difficult, and you have less time to judge what you need to do- only as far as you can see, which leaves a few seconds at best. I was slower, but nimble on the uneven surfaces, more reckless because I couldn't see what was coming. It was exhilarating and fun, and I had it all to myself. 

After a few hours, I returned to the noisy bright of the city, feeling refreshed and joyful. It had felt reckless and scary to go out alone, but in fact had been exciting and fun. I felt like I'd won over my own fears,  enjoyed the cool night and the stars and the wildlife despite the warnings. 

I've discovered a beautiful off road route exploring the south downs from brighton, thanks to my amazing new MTB group. The South Downs are a beautiful set of hills that flank the sea from Worthing all the way down to Eastbourne. They offer incredible views over the coast and

Detailing the route:

We started out at Brighton Marina, right next to the Asda, where you can get some last minute snacks if you need it.

After this, we headed out on the spectacular sustrans route, an off road route which runs along the sea front, between 30metre chalk cliffs on one side and the wild, rocky sea on the other. It's a gorgeous track, which winds around the headlands until it reaches Saltdean, giving you great views along the white walled coast, and over a shifting blue sea.

At Saltdean, you duck under the cliffs and road via a underpass, and ride 200 metres on the road, until you get to Telscombe Cliffs nature reserve, on your left.

From here, you start up into the downs with a long, gradual hill leading tantalisingly up past sheep fields, with the line of the sea flooding out behind you. The top gives you a glorious view over the rugged, golden downs with the sea beyond. The tracks are chalky and muddy, but in general good use.

From here, we got to a house, which can only be identified by Homebush Avenue, a tiny road. Here, you can find a footpath which continues over the ridge line, following the lines of the field. We rode on this track as it wound past golden fields and disused farms, until we got to the bottom of a step track, which led up to the top of Castle Hill. It was a bumpy, hard climb, where conversations got a bit breathless, but the view from the top was phenomenal.

We reached the south downs way here, and follow this as it arches over Castle Hill. A massive rain cloud was blowing in, and the light was streaming through the clouds. It was super beautiful.

We followed the south downs way as it drops fast down the rolling country side, to the A27. You cross it here, and face a couple of very steep ups and downs, and then a long climb up to the ridegline again.

Following gravel track, you ride the ridegline along to Ditching Beacon. Here, you take a 5 minute stretch on road, and then head off to Stanmer Park. There are lots of ways through Stanmer Park, with exciting single track twisting through packed trees, and also wider avenues with less jumps and bumps.

I like to end up at the top end of Stanmer Parl, where you can ride down hill and the quieter (Whats the road called) which is a fantastic 5km down hill, ending at the Level in the centre of town.

1. Check your bike to see if it needs a service

In the autumn, the roads are more likely to be wet, dirty and covered in slippery leaves and debris. This can make your chain and bike all grimy. A dirty bike will mean more trips to the bike repair shop. If your bike hasn’t had a service in a while, then it’s worth sending it in for one at your local bike shop. They’ll give the moving parts a thorough check and a clean.

You can also do a few repairs yourself if you know the bike is in good working order. Give it a clean, particularly the chain and gears, and you might want to start using a wet chain oil as it works better in wet weather. Maintain your chain, and clean your bike!

2) Get Disc Brakes or learn to feather your rims. 

If you’re riding through the rain and your bike uses rim brakes (brakes that rub again the rim to stop you) you’ve probably experienced a worrying moment where you can’t stop fast enough no matter how hard you squeeze the brake lever. There is a feathering technique you can use that is a little like ABS in a car. The best way to overcome this is by continually feathering the brakes on and off until you feel them begin to grip. By feathering the brakes you help remove the water and dirt that keeps the brake pads from effectively gripping to rim. You’ll be surprised at how well this works!  

Or get disc brakes :)

3. Get your lights out

Winter is here! Dark evenings and mornings are suddenly a reality, and that means it’s time to unearth your bike lights.

Give them a full charge or replace the batteries if you haven’t used them for a few months to make sure they are working properly. You don’t want to go to use them to find out they’re broken or dead.

It might also be good to use them in the daytime, if its’ misty or rainy- you are much harder to see!

4. Layer Up – Autumn Cycling Gear

Autumn weather can be hard to dress for. It can be bright and cold, warm and wet, and everything in between, often in just one day. Adaptable autumn cycling gear is best.

The best autumn cycling clothing options are garments you can layer, and versatile pieces of kit. Things like merino base layers and tops and waterproof shell jackets are great options. Wearing layers makes you adaptable to whatever the day brings and keeps you comfortable commuting in any conditions. Pack extra layers in your bag on warm mornings in case an unexpected chill moves in while you’re out and about.

5. Fluro-tastic

Make sure you stand out from the background with fluro or high viz.

Hi-viz and reflections can also help to make you visible to car drivers, as you’ll be that bit more eye-catching in the gloom. A lot of jackets aimed at commuters will have hi-viz options and plenty of reflective detailing.  If you wear a rucksack, reflective and high-viz covers are ideal; easy to pop on, really bright, and often waterproof to boot, plus you can just stow it in the bag the rest of the time.

6. Put on Mudguards!

If you don’t have mudguards on your bike, now is most definitely the time to fit them on.There is nothing worse than going through a puddle and feeling the back wheel spray dirty road water up your back. It’s not pleasant!

You’ll need to check that your bike has the right bolt holes to attach them if you want ones that give you lots of coverage but you can also get simple ones that clamp onto the seat post.

8. Update your tyres

The worse the weather gets, the more likely you are to get a puncture, while wet roads can be slippery and dangerous. It’s a good idea to replace your tyres with more autumn-friendly ones. Opt for some with a deeper tread to grip the roads better and that are harder wearing and offer some measure of puncture protection. Gatorskins are favourites among hardened all-weather commuters.

You should also keep a spare tyre and pump in your bag at all times, just in case.

10. Keep your vision clear

Here’s a question budding cyclists ask a lot: what do i cycle in? 

My answer to you is:

What ever you want. Seriously.

Growing up in Oxford means I grew up cycling in everything from jeans to full length gowns, and cycle clothes actually feel a bit odd and pretentious to me. I admit their usefulness though; padded shorts keep your butt from getting sores, breathable tops keep you from being sweaty, leggings keep you active, bike gloves keep your hands from going numb.

It's all a spectrum though; you don't need a full outfit for the occasional ride. If you want to set off for a few hours, you can pull on some sweat pants or leggings, trainers and t-shirts, and still (amazingly!) cycle as far as you want. If you do want to commit to more cycling, and longer rides, it might be more comfortable for you to also buy some padded bottoms, a breathable top/waterproof, and a pair of fingerless padded gloves.

What do i need?

I think your first port of call is a pair of padded shorts or padded leggings, to protect your bum from chafing on the bike seat. They might feel a bit weird at first, but they protect your poor rear end. They have spent the last few months "in fashion" too, so know you'll in on trend whilst on your bike- very important.

You might want padded gloves too; these help cushion your hands from long hours on the handlebars; it softens vibrations from the road, and stop your grips from getting sweaty.

I'd recommend having a sports top- not necessarily lycra, but cycle jersey's are designed with cycling in mind. They are comfortable, have back pockets for easy access to food or maps, are longer on the back to keep your bum covered even when you're leaving over the bars.

If you are really keen, cycling shoes with cleats are a great way to go even faster. They improve your cycling by 30% more effeminacy, because you are clipped into the pedals, and you pull up as well as pushing down; this makes you go faster and use your energy to the highest efficiency.

Cheapest places to buy these? (UK specific)

First port of call, have a check what Aldi is selling. Once every couple of months they do ridiculously cheap bike riding clothes. I admit to buying these devotedly, and use them all the time. They aren't the longest lived, but for they are great for the cost and they don't look bad either. Thank you Germany! Check out Aldi's website for details of when their next bike clothes sale is.

Next good stop is Decathlon. They do cheap-to-medium level clothes for you to wear. I love their 7 pound padded shorts; these are comfy, don't look showy, and last amazingly. They do great splash proof coats, and their range of light layers are exceptional for the price.

As bike shorts are in at the moment, if you so wish, you can purchase some at places such as Primark or H&M, along with cheapish sports tops. I haven't tested these out, and imagine they've been made with fashion in mind rather than comfort, but if you find they are great, I'd love to know!

After this, try some of the FWE and KALF range at Evans Cycles. This is relatively cheap, and often is more stylish than your aldi basics. Their jerseys are particularly colourful and popular. Wiggle also does a middle range set of clothes that are worth looking at. 

If you are particular keen bean, move up to Castelli, Gore or Rapha. These are top of the range, it'll be 60 pounds +  per item, but with the money you get well designed clothes, that will look and feel good on, as well as usually being actually waterproof or windproof.

So, in conclusion:

-You can cycle 100 miles in jeans and a hoodie; bike across town in a dress and (as I did) bike across California in board shorts. 

How to take the perfect stand-alone picture of your bike like it looks like a new pro model in a magazine. I do this for a job, so you can trust me on this. These are the basic rules for taking a landscape shot of your bike, you can break these to take more interesting photos, of course. 

The first thing to think about is the actual bike. You need everything to line up correctly. 

-Cranks. These need to be horizontal, the front facing one facing forwards. Pedals should be flat and level. 

-Valves. The valves should be sitting at the very top or bottom of both wheels.-tyre brand. This might be a bit of fiddling, as the brand should sit at the same place on both tyres; if there is writing on them, this should be the right way up and readable. Depending on the tyres, this means the writing will sit at the very top or bottom of the wheels. 

-Drive side. Make sure the drive side (chain) is facing you. 

-Height of saddle. This does vary depending on what sort of bike you have, but should be about level with the height of the handlebars.

-Straight handlebars. Should be facing forwards and not twisting. You should be able to look down flat handlebars, or line up the drops so the front one block the back one. 

- Find a stick to hold the bike up by. There is usually a sweet spot just under the back of the derailed for it to rest on. This can be edited out later, so it looks like it's standing up on it's own. 

Lighting and background- 

Ok, so obviously this is much more subjective depending on the what sort of bike it is and what sort of photographer you are. 

These are the basic rules: - Background should reflect the habitat of the bike. For a Mountain bike, you'll want to have a naturey, trail sort of background, road bikes will have a road, hybrid will be on an urban street or brick wall, etc etc. You can mix this up for cool effect too, but the basics are take it in it's environment. Avoid taking photos with harsh shadows in the middle of the day in the sun. Dappled light from trees always make the bike nicer to look at.

Framing- Think about if there are trees, or angles, or railings, or whatever is in the environment to frame the bike, and enhance the features. Colours- What colours are on the bike; is there a background to match or contrast with the bike colours? 

Position 

- Initially for a full bike shot, you're going to want to be 2-3 metres away. You need to hover around saddle height, around the centre of the bike, looking down the handlebars for the sweet spot. 

- Then there is the back view. This isn't direct; you are hanging about three quarters behind the bike, so you can see the curve of the handlebars. You'll want to be above the saddle for this.

-More commonly done for MTB, you can take a front photo, which gives the bike a proud sort of feeling. You will be lower down for this- just under the handlebars, with the handle bars hovering diagonally above the saddle. Front tyre will look a bit bigger.

- Close ups shots; try and work out what the key features are on the bike; take these from a medium distance. Small details are fine to take really close up, but to make sense of the way a bike works, try to include enough in the frame.

I was searching on tumblr for other rad blogs to follow about women cycling, and noticed that almost all the blogs about women cycling weren't exactly...representational. 

Instead of anything informative, funny, interesting or inspiring, I was overwhelmed by images of girls in short shorts, skimpy tops and heels leaning over their bikes, giving non-too subtle views of their bottoms. This came pages above anything real about women cycling. I changed my search to be about men cycling and, surprise surprise, almost all of the top blogs covered serious cycling news, athlete fan pages and gear reviews. 

What is this disconnect between actual women on bikes and mens ideas of women on bikes? Are we to blame Queen for their song "Bicycle?" Why is the idea of a women sitting on a mechanical object and cycling the fuck away from men so entirely terrifying they have to produce this bicycle-wank-fest?

Because bikes are about empowerment for women. The dawn of the bicycle transformed women. It suddenly gave women the power to control their own transport, to organise and mobilise. It took away the reliance on men to drive them. Women couldn't ride in dresses, so they started wearing trousers. The suffragettes used bikes to get to meetings and protests. It was the beginning of female empowerment. Which is why it makes me so angry to see so many shit photos of women posing naughtily on their bikes. That's not how women ride bikes. Here's how women ride bikes: 

-Josie Dew- cycled across most of the world by herself. She is also hilarious. She funds her lifestyle through bike-baked goods and amazing travel books. Now as a mother of three gets all three kids and all their stuff (weighing up to 50 kilos) on her bike and cycles around the uk. She is mad.

- Dervla Murphy. In the 1950's, she cycled out of her small town in Ireland didn't stop until she reached India. She cycled over the Himalayas on a three speed. (Yep, you read that correctly)  She faced down wolf packs, rapists, robbers, blizzards, deserts, the himalayas armed with a pistol and a good measure of common sense and humour... She managed to document it all with several highly entertaining and informative travel books. 

- Laura Kenny. 4 gold medals by the age of 24. She mixes being an incredible track athlete with being a genuinely lovely person. 

-Nicole Cooke. She has World, Commonwealth, National, Classics and Tour titles to her name. Unbeatable. 

-Dame Sarah Storey. Hope you've heard of her. She is Britain’s most successful female paralympian. She started as a swimmer, before switching her talents to cycling in 2005. She has won 2 Olympic gold medals and many more National, Commonwealth and Olympic titles to follow, netting her a total of 6 cycling Golds. She was made a dame, just before she set a new British hour record of 45.502km in 2015.

-Beryl Burton. For 4 decades, Beryl dominated the British time trial scene, taking 72 national time trial titles across all distances, setting 50 national time trial records and being crowned the RTTC BBAR for 25 consecutive years. Over the 50’s, 60’s, 70’s and 80’s she was the rider to beat, not just for the other women but for the men too. With 7 world titles and 24 national titles on the road and track, in addition to a Tour de France stage win, her impressive all-round success in cycling is likely never to be bettered.

- Lee Craigie is Scottish mountain biker, endurance cyclist and co-founder of The Adventure Syndicate, a collective of female endurance cyclists who aim to increase levels of self-belief and confidence – especially in women and girls – through inspiring stories, an encouraging community, workshops and training. She has raced XC Mountain Bike for Scotland in the 2014 Commonwealth Games and for GB in World and European Championships. She recently did LEJOG in 4 days ( a new record) and is beasting the silk road enduro. 

- Rachel Atherton is the most awarded British mountain-biker in the history of the sport. As well as 10 UK National titles she is 5 times Downhill World Champion, 5 times Downhill World Cup Overall Champion, twice European Champion and the proud owner of 34 World Cups. In a crash in 2017, Rachel had a crash at Round 2 Fort William. She dislocated her shoulder, and then re-locating it herself on the trackside. She then continued the race. Rachel’s femininity, toughness and her honesty on issues such as body image mean that her appeal stretches beyond Mountain-biking. She has arguably done more than any rider in the world to put Downhill on the mainstream media map. She has been awarded Sunday Times Young Sportswoman of the Year, BBC Midlands Sportswoman of the Year, in 2015 she was named 23rd most influential woman in UK sport by the Independent and in 2013 and 2016 she was named BTSport Action Woman of the Year with a landslide 63% of the public vote. Rachel’s acceptance of the international Laureus Action Sportsperson of the year award was viewed in 160 countries.

- Ruby Isaac. Ok this is a bit premature, she's only 9... and already awesome, with 11000 followers on instagram and thousands on youtube, Ruby does training videos and outreach work to get kids cycling. She makes me feel like I have wasted my life, but never-the-less is an amazing example of a young girl bossing it. 

I am sadly affected by the most horrific sugar lows (or "bonks") that cause anything from fainting to tantrums to despair laden sobs. The only way to stop my blood sugar from plummeting is to make sure I have a good selection of snacks on board. Having tried and tested load of things over the last few years, I can happily say these recipes will keep you from going bonk...ers.

1) The greatest rocky road you'll ever eat. Called by my colleagues, the "heart attack hunk", this sweet, crunchy delicious snack will get even the biggest bonker back. 

What you'll need: 200g milk chocolate, 250g butter, 300g digestives, 3 tables golden syrup, and then a selection of sweets- marshmallows, maltasers, peanut brittle, mars bar, oreo.. whatever you fancy really.

How to make: Melt chocolate, butter, sugar, golden syrup over a low heat. When molten, add crushed up digestive biscuits, malteasers, marshmallows peanut brittle, etc and leave to cool in the fridge for an hour. Wallah! the most carb heavy, sweet, energy filled snack for the bonkers among you.

2) Trail mix (make your own) In America, trail mix is a glory; any self respecting supermakert has 25+ self service options of trail mix. Here, not so much. Never fear- make your own. I recommend Aldi or Lidl to bulk buy nuts. 

My personal favourites back-from-the-bonk mix is easy. First you get some granola, and add in which nuts you like- for me, walnuts and almonds. Cover this in honey, and roast until golden brown. Once cooled, I add raisins and/or cranberries, banana chips and smarties. Sometimes I add dark chocolate drops instead, as these are also quite energy filled. Mix it together for a mega-mix that you can keep in your handle bar bag for a quick bite of energy.

These guys have lots of ideas too https://greatist.com/health/21-healthier-trail-mix-ideas

3) Date and banana flapjack. (Ok so there has to be something healthy in here...!) 

I discovered an amazing new route to get out of central London completely off road. 

Thinking about cycling out of London normally conjures images of pollution, cars, traffic and endless traffic lights. It won’t be a fun ride, I assumed.

However I was delighted to find you can get from Paddington station, all the way to the outer limits of the underground totally free of cars. Me and my sister took to the gravelled canals paths, bikes loaded with bags for our camping trip, and cycled all the way out without seeing a single car. It was awesome. 

It’s easy to do. At Paddington station, head out to Praed street, take a left until you hit Paddington Basin- a moment ride from the station entrance. This is an attractive dockside with fountains, statues and  trees, cobbled banksides flanked with tastefully hidden stores.

You can follow this basin as it becomes the Paddington Arm of the Grand Union Canal. The gravel path continues for 13 miles, and then another 10 miles as it becomes the Grand Union Canal, finishing up near Rickmansworth. The route can carry on out to Hemmel Hemstead.

It’s an amazing route. Sure, it’s a bit slower than banging it out on a road, (it took us 3 hours) but it’s relaxing, beautiful and fun. It was lovely to start in the metropolitan area of London, cycling past the hip floating cafes and bars in Little Venice, to meander past council estates and factories, until we ended up out in the green, quiet countryside, the banks of the river brimming with blackberries and hawthorn, and the river full of herons, ducks and coots.  It was super relaxing too; no navigation required; you just follow the snaking path of the canal, and keep an eye out for pedestrians. 

There was no shortage of things to see either. Here are some highlights!

1) Little Venice. A beautiful selection of canals, with ornate bridges, boutique barges serving artisan coffee and food. It’s tranquil and idyllic, flanked by plane trees. 

2) Canal Boats. My favourite bit of the ride was the sheer amount of boats along the canal. There were all types; traditional houseboats, converted lifeboats, dutch style barges, even one car-turned boat that was getting a lot of attention. It’s amazing to see how all the boat people adapt their boats to their lives; each boat was bursting with roof gardens, flower patches, veg gardens, tents, lookouts and hidey-hole seats. You can’t help but want to live on one. 

3) beautiful arcitecture. There are some great bridges along the way’ check out the helix bridge and the little venice bridge. There is also lost of victorian buildings, and the Kendal Rise cemetery. (where coffins used to arrive by canal boat)

4) The nature. We saw herons, coots, ducks, swans, geese, magpies, crows, doves. foxes, badgers, rabbits... not to mention cute dogs. the further out you went, the more green the banks became and the more wild it felt. We especially liked the Colne Valley Regional Park, with it’s  quiet reservoirs.

I often walk in to bike shops, cast an appreciative eye at the bikes, and then see the price, and blanch. Bikes are expensive. Even basic level road, mountain and touring bikes are often upwards of half a monthly salary for me; and for loads of other people. That shouldn't stop you cycling though. Here are some ways to get bikes cheaper. (Uk specific, sorry!)

- Demo bikes on sale. Lots of the larger bike chains, touring companies, MTB hire companies etc will always, after a season, have some used bikes they are selling off cheaply. These won't be brand new; they might have been tested, or ridden over a summer, so there might be dents and knocks in the paintwork. However, they will always be in workable condition, and often hugely discounted to their normal price. I've gotten my fantastic mountain bike for a 8th of the price after it had completed a season in the bike park. Sure, technology is last year and the frame was a bit beat, but it climbs hill and take on single track like a champ anyway. Check out 

https://www.evanscycles.com/ex-demo-ex-display#bikes 

https://www.rutlandcycling.com/collection/ex-demo-and-ex-hire-bikes

https://www.ukbikesdepot.com/m89b0s0p0/Ex-Display_and_Ex-Demo_Bikes

https://www.tredz.co.uk/nearly-new-bikes

https://www.sigmasports.com/hub/news/warehouse-bike-and-frame-clearance-sale 

-Clearance bikes. Similar to above. Larger bike chains often have bikes on clearance sale. These bikes are usually there after being used as a demo bike in a shop, having been bashed during travel, or returned by a customer. They are, in general, basically a new bike and the price ranges often match this, but keep your eyes out for some insane bargains too. 

- Bike coop- bike building. Bike coops are amazing. Don't be intimated by the often ramshackle appearance of them; they are always friendly, enthusiastic and happy to help. Many will be selling bikes off that have been donated to them, and they have fixed up. Often they run "pay as much as you want" schemes, or mechanics workshops, where they teach you to build your own bike for free- and then you get to keep it. From advice, to mechanics, to cheap bikes- these places are always a good place to have a nose around if you are looking for a new ride. 

Find your nearest here: https://www.bikecollectives.org/wiki/index.php?title=Community_Bicycle_Organizations

- Online- amazon/ebay/gumtree. I have got some amazing bike off these websites. Discounted, well looked after, perfect. The vintage bike I ride at the moment was only 50 quid off gumtree, and a fantastic find; it's fast, well geared and beautiful even though it's 26 years old. That said, I have had my fair share of shitty bikes off there too. Some are barely rideable, rusty, or clearly have been nicked. If you can, check out the seller. If it feels wrong, it's probably wrong. Research the bike against others, always ask for photos, check the sellers past reviews, and be confident in saying no if it isn't what you expected. (I once had a guy offer me a whole new bike, saying "The one you wanted was nicked... but I have 15 others of a similar price." Dodgy!) 

- Ride to work. This is a GREAT scheme for us Brits.  It's a way to get up to 40% off a brand new bike. The bike comes through your employment, so you pay back with salary sacrifices each month- meaning you don't feel out of pocket with some prices. Ask your employer if they are in the scheme, if they aren't, let them know it saves them money as well. It's a win win! Find out more at: https://www.cyclescheme.co.uk/ 

- Police bike sales. Occasionally the police will run a sale on abandoned bikes, or stolen and recovered bikes. They go cheaply, and you'd be surprised what nice stuff you can find in there. Have a look at your local police website to find out details. 

If you love ‘His Dark Materials’ as much as I do, you’ll be keen to see the locations that feature in the books and inspired Phillip Pullman. Whether it’s imagining escaping out of a college window onto the rooves, finding a window to another world in Summertown or basking in the beauty of the canals, there is something to do for every lover of Lyra and her daemon. Oxford is a beautiful, small and easy to get around city. You can get hire bikes and visit all the locations in an afternoon. There are a number of cycle touring companies that offer cheap bike rental via an app (50p per ride) and you can leave the bikes where ever you want to. Try PonyBikes (http://getapony.com/) OFO likes (https://www.facebook.com/ofobicycleuk/) or Oxon Bikes (https://www.oxonbikes.co.uk/) They are similar prices and styles of bikes, but my personal fave is Pony Bikes.

This is a probably 10km round trip. If you want to do it as a walking tour, stick to the centre of Oxford.

1) The best starting point is at Exeter College. This is the college where Philip Pullman’s studied, and which Jordan is loosing based off. It’s one of the most beautiful, and parts of it date back to the 16th century. Make sure to go in as a visitor and see the gorgeous chapel, (with a bust to Tolkien!) and have a look at the dining hall- imagine the opening scene with Lyra and Pan sneaking into the Room of Retirement. Next to the hall, look for a sign for Staircase 8, and looks the room at the top of the staircase. This is Philip Pullman’s room, where he used to climb out onto the roof, as Lyra does at the start of the Northern Lights.

2) Radcliffe Square. This famous square is best known for the Bodlein Library, which sits in the centre of the square. Lyra and Roger visit this to go and find the gobblers in the basements, and it features in several scenes as a background feature in the film. Across from this, is St Mary’s church; Look for gargoyles on the tower and make some faces at them. If you have time, pay to go up the tower and have a great birds eye view of Oxford.

3) Covered Market- an old market with beautiful coloured beams. Lyra visits this in both worlds to steal pies and apples. Don’t steal, but there are several wonderful cafes to eat at- try Georginas or Browns cafe.

4) Magdalen and Christchurch Meadows. This is where a number of the fights with clay burners happen. It features in several scenes in the film too, where Lyra and Roger throw mud at one another. Magdalen is one of the best known colleges in Oxford. If you are also a Harry Potter fan, it’s worth going inside, as you’ll recognise lots of it from the Harry Potter films.

5) Jericho- cycle along canal to Jericho. Have a look at the Castle Mill Boatyard and the canal boats- this is Gyptian Land, and strongly influenced Philip Pullman in his scenes with the gyptians. Cross the bridge for a look at the historic Jericho.

6) Next you’ll arrive at Port Meadow. If you’ve just devoured The Book of Dust, you’ll recognise this from the book. Its always flooded, just as in the BOD, and is beautiful. Lyra and the other Oxford kids go looking for Gobblers here. Try and find a few yourself, while having a look at the gorgeous views, wild horses, and canal boats. Imagine Malcom rowing down here in La Belle Savage.

7) Godstow Nunnery- featured in Northern Lights as where a werewolf lives, and in The Book of Dust as where Lyra is kept as a child. This nunnery is just ruins now, but worth a look- think about the nuns hiding baby Lyra in there.

8) The Trout- Yep, Malcom lives in a real pub, the Trout. Its a beautiful old pub right on the river with great food. It’s got (as you can imagine) pretty touristy and expensive in recent months, but worth a visit to break the bike ride up!

9) Next up is the Hornbeam trees on Sunderland Avenue. In The Subtle Knife, this is the road where there is a window between this world and Sigazzto. Will, Mary and Lyra all use this window to jump between worlds, and to discover the subtle knife.  

10) Natural History Museum/Pitt Rivers- There is also a scene in Subtle Knife where Lyra goes to the Pitt rivers and later meets Lord Boreal there. This is an extraordinary, shadowy, secret place at the back of the NHM. It’s got “tre-panned” heads, arctic gear and many more fascinating things besides.

11) Lord Boreal’s House- This magnificent house used to belong to Lord Maxwell, and now is owned by the Law Department for Oxford Brookes university. You can walk around it’s splendid green lawns and look at the beautiful architecture that was used to be Lord Boreal’ house.

12) The Botanic gardens. This is where Lyra and Will come on Midsummer night to be close to each other in their different worlds. The exact bench (this one in the photo) can be sat on as they do. Definitely worth a visit!

I thought I was a cyclist this time last year. I loved bikes. I adored bikes. Every weekend you'd find me wandering around the country on my steed, exploring back lanes and secret cake shops down  farm roads. I spent most of my life commuting on bike, and my weekends exploring by bike. Hell, I'd even cycled the west coast of America- totalling 3000km in a few months. I loved bikes. 

Then I started my job at a bike shop, and I was shocked to find out I did not love bikes. Not in the way the enthusiasts loved bikes. They approached me, encouraged by my long america ride, began with questions- how far, how fast, average speed, weight, tyre to rim ratio, gimbles, travel, (and no, not the jump on a flight kind) they wanted to know what I rode, how I'd accessorised it, what brand of clothes I wore and what my Strava was. They laughed at my tyre choice and were interested at my gaff tape fixed pedal cages. I had a conversation with someone who was amazed I'd spent less than a grand on a bike. I realised I knew nothing about bikes, or cycle culture. It didn't matter how much I rode them, I was not ever going to be as pro as these people.In a flash of inspiration, I relied for the first time, why cyclists are a bit intimidating, and why you might not want to join this exclusive club. It felt sad. It also inspired me to start this.

This blog is not about how to be a cycling pro. This is a guide to how to be a happy amateur with no money but the passion anyway. The thing is: it doesn't matter what you ride, or how you ride, really. Ride what feels comfy, go whatever speed you want, stop for cake, wear your sunday best if you feel like it, enjoy it. That's what matters for riding a bike.  I'll be sharing some rides, detailing some bike adventures, cheapskate advice and probably some rants too. I may not know as much as a pro, but I have spent my life excelling in the joy of bike leisure.  Enjoy.