Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar: Issue 170
The Artisan Collection is proud to offer a portfolio with stand out ratings such as these from Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar.
Issue 170: September/October 2013 New Releases from Spain
Reviewed by Josh Raynolds
2010 Bodegas Altanza Lealtanza Rioja Crianza 90 points
Deep ruby. Ripe cherry and blackberry aromas are complemented by tobacco and candied rose. Smooth and open-knit, offering plush dark berry and smoked meat flavors with a hint of cocoa powder. Clings nicely on the finish, with the cherry and smoke notes repeating. There's just enough wildness here to appeal to fans of old-school Rioja.
2009 Bodegas Altanza Lealtanza Rioja Reserva 91 points
Deep ruby. Ripe cherry and black raspberry on the fragrant nose. Fleshy dark berry flavors pick up a refreshing bitterness with air, along with notes of vanilla and licorice. Zesty mineral and cracked pepper nuances add bite to the finish, which is firm by smooth, even tannins. Very attractive now but this wine has the concentration to repay patience.
2008 Bodegas Altanza Club Lealtanza Reserva Rioja 91 points
(100% tempranillo): Deep ruby. Sexy aromas of red and dark berry liqueur, potpourri and vanilla, with a smoky topnote. Sweet and penetrating, offering juicy raspberry and cherry-vanilla flavors and a bracing mineral quality that adds lift and focus. The smoke and floral notes repeat on the lively finish, which features silky tannins and a touch of spicecake.
2008 Bodegas Altanza Artistas Jiaying He Rioja Reserva 92 points
Inky ruby. Smoke- and spice-accented dark berry scents are complicated by notes of licorice and cured tobacco, with a vanilla nuance gaining strength with air. Smooth and open-knit, offering sweet blackberry and boysenberry flavors and a touch of mocha. Velvety tannins come on late and give shape to the impressively long, smoky, fruit-driven finish.
2005 Bodegas Altanza Lealtanza Gran Reserva Rioja 92 points
(all tempranillo that spent two years in French and American oak): Bright ruby. Pungent red fruits, pipe tobacco and cedary oak on the highly perfumed nose. Smoky and sweet in the mouth, offering intense raspberry and cherry-vanilla flavors and a hint of mocha. Supple tannins come on late and add shape to the finish, which echoes the mocha, oak and cherry notes.
2012 Bodegas Baigorri Blanco Fermentado en Barrica Rioja 91 (+?) points
(a blend of viura and malvasia): Bright yellow. Powerful, oak-spiced aromas of poached pear, yellow plum and lemon curd, with a potent vanilla quality emerging with air. Emphatically oaky right now but this deeply flavored wine offers intense orchard and citrus fruit flavors that pick up sweetness with air. Closes with firm grip, echoing smokiness and lingering candied citrus fruit notes. Oak-o-phobes will shun this wine right now but from past experience I'm confident that the fruit is up to the lumber.
2011 Bodegas Baigorri Blanco Fermentado en Barrica Rioja 91 points
Light yellow. Sexy, oak-spiced aromas of poached pear, melon and honey. Silky and gently sweet on the palate, offering juicy citrus and orchard fruit flavors braced by zesty minerality. Nicely combines richness and vivacity, finishing smoky, tangy and long.
2010 Bodegas Baigorri Garnacha Rioja 91 points
Opaque ruby. Sexy, oak-spiced aromas of red fruit liqueur and potpourri. Round, seamless and appealingly sweet, offering intense raspberry and cherry-vanilla flavors and a hint of mocha. Supple tannins come on late and add shape to the long, smooth, emphatically fruity finish. There seems to be ample fruit here for the wine to age but it's pretty sexy right now.
2009 Bodegas Baigorri Rioja Crianza 90 points
Vivid ruby. Ripe cherry and black raspberry on the fragrant nose and in the mouth. Smooth, sweet and round, with a bitter cherry quality carrying through a long smoke- and spice-accented finish that's framed by dusty tannins. Young but quite suave after an hour or so in a decanter.
2009 Bodegas Baigorri Vino de Garage Rioja 92 points
Inky ruby. Sexy, intensely perfumed aromas of black raspberry and cherry-cola, with oak-spice and incense nuances adding complexity. Sweet, concentrated and expansive, offering vibrant red and dark berry flavors that show both power and finesse. Finishes on a spicy note, with excellent clarity, smooth tannins and a late kick of allspice.
2009 Bodegas Baigorri Baigorri B70 Rioja 93 points
Opaque ruby. Explosive aromas of dark berry liqueur, vanilla, smoky Indian spices and potpourri. Sweet, round and expansive, offering palate-staining, oak-tinged black raspberry and boysenberry flavors and a sexy note of candied lavender. Gains weight with air but maintains a vivacious character and finishes sweet, gently tannic and impressively long. Thoroughly modern but extremely enjoyable in its extroverted, flamboyant manner.
2008 Bodegas Baigorri Rioja Reserva 91 points
(went through malo and aged for 18 months in new French oak): Inky ruby. A heady, smoky bouquet evokes candied dark berries, cherry-cola, mocha and cured tobacco. Sweet and expansive in the mouth, offering intense dark fruit and vanilla flavors lifted by juicy acidity. Closes sweet, spicy and long, with supple tannins and a hint of candied rose.
2008 Bodegas Baigorri Belus Rioja 90 points
Deep ruby. Dried cherry, pipe tobacco, vanilla and rose oil on the fragrant nose. Smooth and open-knit, offering ripe red fruit flavors with hints of smoky herbs and mocha. Becomes sweeter with air and finishes with attractive floral pastille and vanilla notes and supple tannins that add grip.
2008 Bodegas Baigorri Vino de Garage Rioja 92 points
Inky ruby. Explosive aromas of blackcurrant, vanilla and smoky, nutty oak, plus a suggestion of mocha. Dense, broad and palate-coating, with sweet dark berry flavors complicated by notes of candied flowers and vanilla bean. Finishes with building, supple tannins, an echo of sweet dark fruits and outstanding persistence. Definitely in a modern style but I find this wine very seductive.
2008 Bodegas Baigorri Baigorri B70 Rioja 92 points
(virtually all very old-vines tempranillo, with bits and pieces of graciano, garnacha and mazuelo): Saturated ruby. Heady aromas of red berries, rose oil, vanilla and spicecake. Fleshy and ripe on entry, then bright and lively in the mid-palate, showing impressive depth and vivacity to its spicy redcurrant and cherry-vanilla flavors. This seductively sweet, fleshy, focused Rioja finishes very long and silky, with lingering vanilla and spice notes.
2007 Bodegas Baigorri Rioja Reserva 90 points
Glass-staining ruby. Blackberry preserves and cherry-cola on the perfumed nose, with a sexy vanilla nuance building with aeration. Broad, supple and nicely concentrated for the vintage, with sweet dark berry liqueur and mocha flavors and a bitter cherry skin quality that adds firmness. This open-knit, succulent wine finishes with a suave blend of sweet fruit and smoky oak.
2010 Besadien Ribera del Duero 90 points
Saturated ruby. Aromas of cherry, blackberry and spicy oak, plus a smoky overtone. Smooth, sweet and expansive, offering pliant dark fruit flavors and a touch of bitter chocolate. Shows good energy on the youthfully tannic finish, with the smoke and cherry notes repeating.
2009 Besadien Ribera del Duero Reserva 91 points
Opaque ruby. Smoky dark berries and Indian spices on the perfumed nose. Plush and open-knit, offering sweet black and blue fruit flavors and a hint of fruitcake. The smoky quality comes back on the very persistent finish, which features smooth tannins and lingering floral and berry compote notes.
2009 Besadien Ribera del Duero Premium 92 points
Opaque ruby. Heady, exotically perfumed aromas of dark fruit liqueur, smoky oak andincense. Then sweet and penetrating on the palate, offering intense black and blue fruit flavors and a hint of licorice. Vanillin oak and floral pastille qualities linger on the finish, which features smooth tannins and a hint of clove.
2010 Bodegas Carmen Rodriguez Carodorum Seleccion Especial Toro 92 points
(100% new French oak): Opaque purple. Heady, exotically perfumed aromas of candied dark berries, incense and vanilla, with a smoky topnote. Lush and expansive on the palate, offering sweet blueberry and cherry-cola flavors and an undercurrent of minerality. Really stains the palate and finishes sweet, supple and long, with sneaky tannins and a hint of licorice.
2010 Bodegas Carmen Rodriguez Carodorum CR Toro 91 points
(aged for 15 months in French oak): Deep ruby. Sexy aromas of dark berry preserves, anise and spicy, vanillin oak, with a smoky overtone. Supple and open-knit, offering sweet blackberry and boysenberry flavors and a touch of candied licorice. Soft tannins give shape to the finish, which leaves notes of woodsmoke, vanilla and dark berry compote behind.
2010 Bodegas Felix Callejo Seleccion de Vinedos de la Familia Ribera Del Duero 94 points
Inky ruby. Explosive scents of blueberry, cherry-vanilla and cassis, with a floral pastille topnote. Broad, deep and concentrated, offering sweet black and blue fruit flavors complemented by Indian spices, vanilla and bitter chocolate. Really stains the palate, with bright acidity contributing lift and clarity. This rich, dense but surprisingly lively wine finishes with superb power and lingering sweetness.
2010 Bodegas Felix Callejo Majuelos de Callejo Ribera del Duero 92 points
Bright purple. Sexy dark berry and violet pastille scents, along with notes of cola, spicy oak and mocha. Sweet and expansive on entry, then tighter in the middle, offering intense blackberry and cherry-vanilla flavors with a hint of allspice. A smoky nuance comes up on the seamless, sweet, very long finish.
2010 Bodegas Felix Callejo Ribera del Duero Crianza 91 points
(all French oak): Bright violet color. Ripe cherry and blackcurrant scents are brightened by peppery spices and smoky minerals. Juicy, penetrating, appealingly sweet black raspberry and cherry flavors show very good energy and pick up a floral quality with air. Finishes with slow- mounting tannins and lingering rose and dark berry qualities.
Bodegas y Vinedos Gancedo
2012 Bodegas y Vinedos Gancedo Val de Paxarinas Blanco Bierzo 91 points
(85% godello and 15% dona blanca): Pale gold. Vibrant, mineral-laced citrus and orchard fruit aromas and flavors, with a sexy floral nuance adding complexity. At once fleshy and racy, offering bitter citrus pith and honeysuckle flavors sharpened by a gingery nuance. Closes with excellent clarity and length, leaving a chalky mineral note behind. This racy, youthful wine will be even better with a year or two of additional bottle age.
2007 Bodegas y Vinedos Gancedo Herencia del Capricho Blanco Bierzo 91 points
(virtually all godello, with a bit of dona blanca; raised in 100% new French oak): Bright yellow- gold. Exotic scents of poached pear and orange pith, with vanilla and marzipan notes adding depth. Smooth and broad in the mouth, offering dried orchard fruit and buttered toast flavors and a bracing jolt of bitter citrus zest. Distinctly rich white wine with strong closing punch and lingering smokiness. Pretty wild and singular stuff, and far removed from the typically racy white wines of the region.
2011 Bodegas y Vinedos Gancedo Gancedo Mencia Bierzo 90 points
Vivid ruby. Perfumed aromas of black raspberry, cola, licorice and vanilla, with a bright mineral overtone. Lively, sharply focused dark berry flavors stretch out and deepen with air, showing an appealing sweetness and no excess fat. Finishes silky and long, with resonating spiciness and supple tannins.
2010 Bodegas y Vinedos Gancedo Gancedo Mencia Bierzo 91 points
Bright violet color. Vibrant floral aromas of red and dark berries, cherry and rhubarb, with a deeper licorice nuance emerging with air. Bitter cherry and blackcurrant flavors show very good focus and sneaky sweetness on the back half. Finishes with firm, tangy bite and strong persistence, leaving a sexy rose pastille note behind.
2008 Bodegas y Vinedos Gancedo Xestal Bierzo 91 points
Bright violet color. Intense smoke- and mineral-accented aromas of dark berries, cherry pit and violet. Spicy, incisive blackberry and bitter cherry flavors are sweetened by a vanilla quality and show very good clarity and lift. Gains weight with air, along with a licorice nuance that carries through the long, sweet, youthfully tannic finish.
2007 Bodegas y Vinedos Gancedo Xestal Bierzo 91 points
(made from bush vines that are between 58 and 100 years of age): Opaque ruby. Smoky, spice- tinged aromas of dark berry liqueur and cola, with a subtle mineral quality gaining strength with air. Lively and sharply focused on entry, then fleshier and broader in the middle, offering sweet blackberry and cherry-cola flavors and a touch of allspice. Finishes sweet, silky and long, with soft tannins adding shape. This estate's 2007 Ucedo, which I scored 92 points last year, is showing extremely well right now, offering sexy floral and dark berry qualities and a vibrant mineral nuance that I didn't detect last year. It's delicious now but I suspect it will continue to drink well over at least the next few years.
2012 Jordi Miro Garnatxa Negra Maceracio Carbonica Terra Alta 90 points
Bright red. An exotically perfumed bouquet evokes wild red berries, incense and spicecake. Tangy, focused and light on its feet, offering zesty strawberry and redcurrant flavors and notes of cinnamon and nutmeg. Closes with strong lift and nervy cut, leaving a sexy floral note behind.
2012 Jordi Miro Garnatxa Blanca Maceracio Pelicular Terra Alta 90 points
Bright gold. Poached pear, honey and musky herbs on the perfumed nose. Lush, creamy and dense, offering an array of orchard and pit fruit flavors and a bracing jolt of bitter lemon pith. Pretty wild stuff, finishing with strong punch and persistent floral, anise and sweet butter qualities. This one is bound to freak a few people out.
2011 Bodegas Merum Monastrell Seleccion Jumilla 90 points
Inky purple. Sexy, oak-spicy dark berry and cola aromas are complicated by violet, woodsmoke and cracked pepper. Spicy, penetrating and lithe for its power, offering zesty blackberry and bitter cherry flavors and a touch of floral pastilles. A smoky mineral note adds bite to the finish, which features silky tannins and touch of licorice.
2001 Bodegas Ramon Ramos Monte Toro Seleccion Toro Reserva 92 points
(made from vines that are reportedly between 50 and 70 years of age; aged for 20 months in French and American oak): Inky ruby. Flamboyant aromas of black and blue fruits and spicy oak, with notes of vanilla, anise and cigar box adding complexity. Plush and open-knit, offering expansive blueberry and cherry-vanilla flavors lifted by gentle acidity. Picks up a smoky quality with aeration and finishes long, sweet and smooth, with no obvious tannins. Still in extremely fine shape for a 12-year-old wine.
2000 Bodegas Ramon Ramos Monte Toro Reserva de la Familia Toro Gran Reserva 92 points
Deep red. Complex scents of dried red fruits, pipe tobacco, incense and woodsmoke. Smooth, sweet and smoky on the palate, offering sweet cherry and rose pastille flavors complicated by vanilla and mocha. Fully mature and rather decadent, finishing with no obvious tannins and oak- derived notes of smoky herbs, espresso, vanilla bean and carob.
2006 Bodegas San Prudencio Cueto Rioja Reserva 90 points
(aged for 24 months in new French oak): Deep ruby. High-pitched redcurrant and cherry aromas are complemented by candied rose and vanilla. Pliant and sweet, offering lively red fruit flavors complicated by mocha and sweet chewing tobacco. Closes smoky, sweet and long, with supple tannins and a hint of dark chocolate.
Bodegas y Vinedos Tardencuba
2007 Bodegas y Vinedos Tardencuba Valnuevo Seleccion Toro 92 points
Glass-staining ruby. Enticing dark fruit and spicy oak aromas, plus smoke and mocha nuances and a powerful vanilla overtone. Distinctly oaky, even at six years of age, but there's a boatload of sweet black and blue fruit here as well. Supple tannins come on late and fade into the fruit on the long, smoky finish. Hard-core traditionalists will likely find the oak character too pronounced but this is awfully seductive; knock down or raise my score accordingly.