#zipper open

This is the 2nd sewalong post for my new sewing pattern utility jacket Tosti. I’ll explain here about the zipper open with front placket.

It is not really difficult to sew, and the step by step illustrated instruction is included in the pattern instruction. But some parts are a bit tricky. Here you can follow photo instruction.

Off course, you can apply this for any other suitable jacket/coat patterns.

How to sew Zipper opening with Front placket

< Cut fabric / Interfacing >

1. Cut the parts and mark the markings following the pattern indication and prepare the zipper. I’m using a zipper with double tabs in the sample, but a single tab type is no problem. Press interfacing on the wrong side of all the pieces.

< Placket Upper >

1. Fold the Front placket upper piece lengthwise with right sides facing. Sew the top and bottom edges. Trim the edges for making sharp corners.

2. Turn it right side out and press. Topstitch the edges from the right side.

< Marking >

1. Check the zipper length. If the zipper is too long, you can adjust it on the upper edge later. (or use this method) Put marks on the seamline on the collar/bodice (or place you like) as a guide.

2. Mark 1.2cm width guidelines on the zipper as shown in the pic. *The pattern is calculated as 1.2cm( ≈1/2”) visible zipper width like the right side photo. These guidelines will be the seamlines for attaching to the plackets.

< Place Zipper > 

1. Separate the zipper. Place it on the Front Placket under(outside) piece and baste. *Match the guideline on the zipper and the seamline of the placket. The wrong side of the zipper faces up. Place the other side of the zipper on the Front placket upper (inside) and baste. *I’m using fabric glue instead of basting by threads. It’s very convenient, but be careful we cannot glue on some fabric, just check before use it! *If your zipper is longer than the placket length, fold the upper side as shown in the pics.

< Placket Under >

1. Layer the Front Placket Under (inside) piece on the Front Placket Under (outside) piece with the zipper right sides together. Stitch the top, bottom, and the zipper side edges. Trim the edges the seam allowance of the Placket inside.

2. Turn it to the right side and top stitch.

3. Both sides of the placket are prepared.

< Attach plackets to bodice >

1. After assembling other parts and the lining, we connect plackets. Place the Front Placket pieces on the right side of the Bodice aligning the centre front edges as shown and baste. *The inside of the plackets faces up.

2. Place the Facing/Lining onto the Bodice right sides together. Line up the centre front raw edges. Sew the centre front seam, the hem and the edge of the collar.

3. Trim 0.6 cm ( ≈1/4”) off the allowance of the Facing. Trim the edges of the seam allowances. Turn it right side out. Set the outline and press.

< Finishing >

1. After finishing the other steps, attach the snap fasteners and top stitch.

***** Voila! ******

*********************

Hope the instruction is clear enough for you. If you have any questions about the pattern and instruction, please contact me. If you share your photos of your creation from my patterns on your blog or other media, please share with Waffle Pattern’s address and don’t forget the tag #wafflepatterns on the SNSs!

The Utility Jacket Tosti sewing pattern is available here.   Also in Etsy shop. The lining pattern included and Japanese instruction available.

*********************

have you ever wondered why some people are staring at you somehow...

then later on as in later later later you realized the zipper of your pants/shorts is open and wonder