#yumani

Mani the spiritspeaker

Llamita - Comunidad Yumani, Isla del Sol, Bolivia

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Yumani, South of Isla del Sol Lake Titicaca Bolivia

If we thought we were done with Incan mysticism after completing the Inca Trail last week, we were wrong, for our next stop would be at the birthplace of the sun and moon (or so indigenous people in these parts believed) on a tiny island in the middle of Lake Titicaca. Following a few days getting our breath (and health, in Zoë's case) back at the lovely Hostal Quipu in Cusco, we braved an overnight bus to the Bolivian border, strolled across to the Bolivian side, and headed to the border town of Copacabana, on the shores of Lake Titicaca. Feeling decidedly unimpressed with the dusty lakeside town, complete with it's grubby hostels and cafés, we headed onto one of the local tour boats, loaded with our backpacks, and enjoyed an hour-long journey across the glittering icy waters (where we mistakenly sat on the boat roof, disembarking with blue lips!) to the South side of the tiny Isla del Sol. Climbing the steep Inca Steps to almost 4000m, we found the handful of houses and restaurants which make up the southern village of Yumani, renting a basic room complete with a view of the lake for around £5. Immediately, the island vibe grabbed us. Here was a seriously slow lifestyle, where the only traffic (there are no vehicles) is donkeys, alpacas and local women (lord only knows what the men do) transporting water from the local spring or produce from other parts of the island, and the only pastime for tourists is watching the 'traffic' go by or gazing out into the lake and the mainland mountains beyond. So, we duly did both, spending the best part of a day staring out to 'sea' sipping coffee in occasionally-open cafés (which are really just converted local homes which have served as cafe-shop-hostels since the tourism arrived), or lounging by the island's paths, people watching and admiring the views. The following day we set out on a loop of the island, a hike which really gave us a feeling for this sacred island which supposedly gave birth to the sun. The walk took us a full day but was entirely worth it as we enjoyed stunning ever-changing terrain (from desert to lush hills and pretty deserted beaches), rare signs of human life and constant sightings of Inca ruins. To us though, that one day in the Bolivian sunshine, surrounded by incredible views over and off the island into azure seas and skies, will be remembered for one thing and one thing only: the donkeys! For some reason we started a 'donkey count' at the start of the day and, as we trudged back to our digs 8 hours later, our count stood at 168 donkeys encountered. In one single day. On a tiny island. Our favourite, for all you Douglas Adams fans, was Donkey Number 42, who truly looked like he was storing the meaning of life between those big, floppy ears! After 2 nights, we headed back to mainland and caught another bus, this time over the hills to Bolivia's de facto capital, La Paz.

Hola, mis amigos, I know the sun is shining on you! Hope life is treating you all kindly. Life was good here! Not the ocean but the morning view from Isla de Sol on Lake Titicaca, a welcome rest from the crazy polluted altitude kicking city of La Paz. Am in Peru now and hoping to book on to a trek for Macchu Picchu and visit the Sacred Valley. Looking forward to it. Already missing the serenity of the lake though, it was beautiful. My travels have been a fiesta for the ears, though i have become lazy about recordings. I’m always listening though! If people want to be heard they will be, of not, then enjoy the silence, as Depeche Mode once proclaimed and as I savoured on this remote island. Be safe & be happy out there! P&L xxx