#yamaboko

It's the big day, and the big - very, very big - floats make their way along Shijô-dôri, salute Yasaka-jinja from a distance, then turn onto Kawaramachi-dôri and finish on Oike-dôri. A flat 2 km course, not too difficult normally, but when you're hauling a 12-ton, 25-metre hoko complete with rare tapestries, people standing on top and a whole brass band, all that in the heat and humidity of July in Japan... Yeah, it's not so easy.

Gion Matsuri

Unlike my previous project on slavic mythology, here I’m researching and illustrating the culture to which I do not belong. Therefore, despite checking various sources, I cannot be 100% sure of not making any cultural mistakes either in a discriptions or illustrations. If there are any — please, let me know!)

The history of Gion Matsuri (祇園祭) is almost as ancient as the history of Kyoto itself. In the medieval times the city has often been plagued with various epidemics. To please the gods and the local spirits, in 869 it was decided to hold a ceremonial parade, depicting 66 stylized halberds to represent each province. Apparently, spirits seemed to like the performance, as it was from now on held in cases of all Kyoto’s misfortunes. It was purely a religious ceremony at first, but, as the time came by, various performances, music numbers and dances were added to the procession. The festivities escalated, and by the time of 14th century stylized halberds have been transformed into unbelievably enormous and luxurious float-like constructions, and the procession itself has been turned into the month-long festival.

3 Days before the first procession of the festival is called 宵々々山 Yoiyoiyoiyama. I visited several different floats during this time. Such as Uradeyama, and Aburatenjin. Almost all the Yamaboko will have paper lanterns which are absolutely stunning to see at nighttime.

Many floats will actually have special displays and exhibits at their holding house. You can also obtain Chimaki at them. Chimaki are these rice cakes wrapped in reeds which are hung up for blessings on the door. I got myself one from Aburatenjin for good luck in studies.

Of course the focus of the Yama is usually pine trees, they act as a way for the kami to descend on the float and grant it divine protection and blessings. This is actually discussed in A Year in the Life of a Shinto Shrine, especially when referring to the Okunchi festival there. But some of the floats used things like brightly decorated umbrellas and such.