A turtleback tomb under the dense, furry growth. Untouched. This island is so green. Bursting through all cracks and crevices is the overwhelming tenacity of life. Vivaciousness. This is the second tomb we found just off of the main drag (Kokusai-dori), which is otherwise saturated with tourist-traps: tempting habu-shu, kitschy shisa, refreshing Orion beer. How many tombs were right here before 1945? The breathtaking contrast between concrete and greenery, flashing lights and resting memory. Peel back the surface of Naha and therein lies the heart of the island. Before Gail. Before the battle.













