#tugriks

#mongolia #lovemongolia #tugriks #ulaanbaatar #darkhan #erdenet

I get to my hostel. First thing I take a shower. Next I change money. They don't have Mongolian Tugriks in London, so I came with Pounds Sterling instead. It sort of works out. Now I have 293,700 Tugriks in my trousers, in a roll so big I can't fit a fist around it. Two elastic bands and my belt hold it all together. Great. I visit Suhbataar Square. Happily, there are 80 times as many Mongolian tourists as Westerners.They're popping corks and taking silly photos.. Making toasts and taking in the sunshine. I take silly photos and change my socks. There's one group with topaz blue florist foil brooches. The men are in suits, the women short, bright skirts. I figure it's a wedding party; I find out later it's Graduation Day. There are giant statues of historical figures. They look badass, especially Chinngis Khan. They make anything in London look pissy. Except maybe the lions in Trafalgar Square. I go for lunch. I pay with one note and get six back. This doesn't help with the extra roll of Tugriks tucked under my belt. I visit a monastery. There's a whole bunch of Buddhists in orange robes. A crowd gathers and eventually more monks all spill out of part of the monastery blowing 6ft long horns and banging saucer-sized cymbals with spoons. It's a racket, then the chanting begins. The procession continues to a pick-up truck draped in colourful flags, pennants and a dragon. No idea. People bend at the waist and touch their forehead on the side of the vehicle. I see an entire troupe of Mongolian horseback riders file across a busy intersection in single file. They leave wet manure on the pavement behind them. I meet some more French and an Israeli. The Israeli guy was selling oil paintings door-to-door in Melbourne after finishing up his national service. He says the oil painting gig is the most common thing for Israelis to do for work abroad. For a second I conclude that all Israelis are talented oil painters. It's mind-boggling. He tells me that actually they buy them on the net cheap and sell high. Makes sense. I forgot: what with all the Buddists and bells I missed the main monastery. The one in all the guides, on all the maps, in all the pictures (except mine). I trudge back. I scope out the side and a monk yells, 'Ho!'. I figure it's off-limits. Then he yells, 'Ho!' again and gestures me to enter. Then he fleeces me for 3,500 Tugriks and another 6,500 for taking pictures. Inside is the biggest Buddha I've seen since the Nara Buddha. I have to admire the monks salesmanship. Seriously. Could you make 10,000 Tugriks with just one word? Ho. I thought so.