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Velvet collars, that are often seen on the lapels of overcoats, date back to the French Revolution where black ones were added by people who wanted to show their sympathy for the executed bourgeoisie.
Decade: 1940s America 'Zoot Suits'
Initially called drapes, zoot suits were first popularised by African-Americans during the Harlem jazz culture in the late 1930s before spreading across America.Â
Identifying features: high-waisted, wide-legged, tight-cuffed pegged trousers, and a long jacket/coat with wide lapels and wide padded shoulders.
 Zoot suits were often worn with a flat-crowned, wide-brimmed hat, thick-soled pointed shoes and a long watch chain.Â
In wartime America, the extravagant amount of cloth used in the creation of zoot suits was seen as a needless expense, leading to rationing regulations introduced in 1942. However, after the war ended, the zoot suit re-entered mainstream style, with a slimmed-down version of the suit marketed by the American clothing industry as a new postwar 'bold look' for the average man. The zoot suit is therefore an example of a trend that was part of the 'bottom-up' fashion movement, with the street style influencing the mainstream rather than the 'top-down' process whereby street style is determined by the mainstream.Â
