#statemant

What would be the better start for the new format than Paris Men’s Fashion Week, that has just recently finished (on Sunday according to official FHCM schedule but actually on Monday with JACQUEMUS show).

FACTS

Runway Shows: 60 (according to official schedule)

Presentations: 27 (according to offial schedule)

Total Looks: Around 3500

Yes, when you combine the numbers, there’re fascinating results – there were around 3500 looks offered – just for Men, just in Paris – that is around 12000 pieces of clothing, 3500 pairs of shoes, around 2000 accessories – a lot! Especially considering the fact that few brands produce very identical outfits (in terms of fabrics, styling, vibes) and there’s a rapidly rising competition at Men’s fashion market. Thanks god Paris is the most diversified of them all and I could name like like only 7-8 brands that does not really fit in the schedule (compared to other 50 brands) – either they look similar, or I don’t get them (my problem?).

PALOMO SPAIN   (18 June, 11:00)

The SS 2020 (that already sounds quite major itself) has started on Tuesday, 18th June, 11:00 AM with Palomo Spain (who returned in Paris after previous season’s try in NY) with some beautiful dresses – yes, you read it correctly. Designer thinks that none of the specific garments are made exclusilvey for any gender and that he sees many boys that could rock those chiffon garments – a significant part of the collection that was inspired by Pompeii.

BODE  (18 June, 12:00)

Emily Adams Bode has just recently won CFDA Award (Emerging Designer of the Year) and there she was at 12:00 AM (straight after Palomo) in Paris, sending the collection that was inspired by her family’s history as wagonmakers for Circus in the early 1900s. She literally looked at the outfits from century ago and re-made them to keep appropriate with time.

AMI   (18 June, 20:00)

My favorite Parisian house is becoming bigger and bigger every season (and it little bit worries me to be honest, strange no? Here’s why: what I always loved about AMI is that it’s one-off menswear-only brands that produces timeless men’s clothes in a very affordable prices (and in a perfect quality), everything in the collections always feels modern (with bit of a twist), the styling is always impeccable with unexpected colors combined together BUT! I kind of missed this in the latest collection, shown at Grand Palais, it felt little bit too dark and serious (especially for Summer collection), I’ve missed color and the sense of freshness. I did like what was shown, there is a lot I would wear myself (especially now when Black has become favorite of mine) but I kind of think I could find many of those pieces at other rival brands, I understand that now brand established itself and it just becomes matter of brand loyality, when you decide where to buy regular black trench coat - that’s where AMI is headed now I guess.

ACNE STUDIOS   (19 June, 15:30) 

With Ambition to Create Novel Expressions, Jonny Johansson (brand founder) presented the collection that felt little bit weird for me (a huge brand fan tbh). I totally loved the opening with beige shirt, styled with yellow scarf, but then I did not quite get printed cycling shorts, or lace insets, or pvc details (and bit more, tbh). It was kind of everything but kind of nothing notable (Luke Leith from Vogue Runway agrees), and I felt disappointed, especially after few very, very strong seasons and increasing fame (after so many years on the market). At least, some great blazers were there (thank god!).

J.W. ANDERSON   (19 June, 13:00) 

It’s a second time for Jonathan in Paris, after moving his namesake label from London (that probably made his 2 out of 3 famed iPhones busier than before). As one of the pioneers who pushed gender-fluid shapes since the very beginning of the career, designer has put signature pieces on the runway - including dresses worn by male models. Blazers and coats had wide shoulder extensions and pants included giant fringe insets. Some of the looks could be well-fitted at his Loewe (the show was day after this in the calendar) but this still feels ”harder” and more personal.

Y/PROJECT   (19th June, 14:30)

Y/Project shows feel like a hard mathematical induction, you need a time to realize the logic behind and “solve” it, or maybe you don’t. Glenn Martens once again proved that there’s no stopping of him and he is cementing the brand aesthetic with gigantic steps every single season. For SS 20 (after showing previous Menswear at Pitti) distortion and asymmetric proportions became even more solid and serious. How can you not love the incredible outerwear, tailored blazers, knitwear and jaw-dropping denim pants – each of them proving that you can combine ugly and beautiful in a very smart way. One could analyze every single look in details, but I bet it would take a lots and lots and lots of time. Additional drama was brought by Bizet's "L'amour Est un Oiseau Rebelle" in one of the Parisian churches. It’s clear that brand’s approach to clothes are not welcomed just by fashion insiders or avid trend followers anymore, it’s just for everyone who love “smart”, fashion-forward and beautiful outfits (even if most of them are everything but classic understanding of beauty). There’s always a surprise cut or detail hidden in most of the Y/Project pieces, once you buy the garment, you get the freedom and possibility to wear it on your own way – I’ve seen myself three men wearing same Y/Project pieces in a completely different way in a same day.

VALENTINO  (19 June, 17:30) 

Pierpaolo Piccioli is keeping the youthful attitude with the insertion of loud graphic prints (this time deisgned by Roger Dean) at Valentino Men’s collections (continued from previous season’s UNDERCOVER collaboration) while keeping brand staple shapes and cuts and not following any of the ongoing trends as much, even the VLTN logo was gone this time (which makes me very happy), replaced with single vintage V sign. The signature camouflage sneaker (my first ever most expensive fashion purchase back in 2012) got upgrade shown alongside with new shapes. Long live Mr. Pierpaolo!

RAF SIMONS   (19 June, 21:00)

Raf Simons clearly is not done with America. After leaving CALVIN KLEIN (end of 2018), it’s his second outing in Paris and I think he used this time to digest everything then to express all in his latest collection. It was very Raf, I feel like he was just being honest putting his feelings and thoughts as motifs (likes of: STONED AMERICA, etc) and showing that he was disappointed with America.

LOUIS VUITTON   (20 June, 14:30)

Virgil Abloh has invited guests at Place Dauphine (Remember Carrie Bradshow walking there in SATC) and offered LV branded wooden green benches, crepes and ice creams, alongside with the beautiful collection. It was clear – Virgil has settled at the house in a year, already has several signature shapes (and lots of accessories) and as he mentioned he just (or “just”) wants to present collections that will be consistent, will help more men express themselves (and he has a huge fandom in that area) and he won’t push the exact specific inspirations (remember Michael Jackson case from previous season?). Show featured some mind-blowing floral pieces (in a form of signature harness, hat and various embroidery) modern tailoring (note: the colors), lots of mixtures of work wear with formal wear and many, many bags (some really hardcore shapes). Originally, show was planned around Notre Dame, but it had to be changed due to the recent fire (although the cathedral was still present as a motif on some of the pieces). In a few words – there’s no stopping for Virgil Abloh and his “work”.

DRIES VAN NOTEN   (20 June, 16:30)

I can never describe my exact feelings about Dries. It means and express so much of everything for me. I just let clothes speak themselves – out of this world beauty, that is all things modern, masculine, sexy, sensual, rebellious, stylish - just b e a u t I f u l. Sometimes I cried…

VETEMENTS   (20 June, 20:00)

I, myself predicted year ago that Vetements could go to McDonald’s one day - and it actually happened today. Guests went to Champs-Elysees branch of the restaurant (biggest one in Paris) to see the show that did not really shock anyone but I guess still brought the excitement to them. Show featured all things Capitalism and more - re-worked famous logos (Likes of Heineken, Vodafone, Internet Explorer to name a few), police-branded bombers, signature flower prints and awkward quotes - everything VETEMENTS has became known For. After previous season’s dark extravaganza (my least favorite show of the brand), they kind of got back to the roots and put everyone’s favorite parody and sarcasm backed pieces. Does it felt new? Ofc No, but still you do not get the fashion show at McDonald’s everyday (or at all) and condom as an invitation, so the mission that means making fashion more fun and sarcastic (but still sell it expensive) was again completed. One of the most interesting quotes that Demna Gvasalia has mentioned to Sarah Mower_ is that he always wanted to have his own celebration at McDonalds since 1997, when McD has opened in Tbilisi, Georgia (and I also remember that very day like it was yesterday, how happy I was to hold Happy Meal menu in my hands there) but he could complete it oy now, in Paris. I can’t stop loving the Gvasalias, for making my country on an international map by showcasing its darkest secrets to everyone!

BERLUTI   (21 June, 13:00)

It’s Kris Van Assche’s 2nd runway show at Berluti and we kind of see where he is going - positioning brand as impeccable (quality-wise) tailor-maker with an youthful, modern touch (mostly expressed in vibrant colors of formal clothing alongside with layered styling). Featuring older models on the runway is a message that Berluti does not forget about mature customers but wants them to look modern. Despite the very strong comptetition in this particular niche (Dior Men's and Louis Vuitton Men's in the same holding as Berluti, LVMH), there's always a need for a good (and fashion-forward) tailoring.

JIL SANDER   (21 June, 15:00)

If you thought Jil Sander could not get more sensitive and delicate, here you go with latest collection, as designers Lucie and Luke Meiers (wife and husband) mentioned in an interview with Alex Badia, they are showing their vision of tailoring, how they feel about the it and offering new ways of wearing it and it just feels right! I kind of feel the duo’s takeover at Jil Sander is still underrated and they are actual creators of the modern but absolutely timeless fashion!

SSS WORLD COPR   (20 June, 11:00)

t’s a daddies world! Justin O’Shea keeps the dandy aesthetic and crazy prints on top of his brand, always showcasing at the fanciest locations of Paris - this time at Ritz, casting some really hot models who are actually various sport (boxing among them) athletes and maybe thats why all the extravagant prints felt more real and wearable than before. And I bet many of you saw the O’Shea serving the guests himself by champagne at the start and taking the bow while he was riding a bike - very casual, indeed.

DIOR MENS   (21 June, 18:00)

Mr. Kim Jones was man of the hour (or the season) once again. He killed it 3rd time. With his couture-approach to the Men’s clothing (with continuous revisiting Dior’s women archives, especially Haute Couture alongside with John Galliano creations) and collaboratiosn with the hottest creative minds of the moment, Jones is just writing down history of modern menswear. This time it was Daniel Arsham, whom Kim contacted year ago with a request and to put his unique approach to the Dior pieces. Known formanipulating and reinterpreting existing materials and structures, Arsham has clearly engaged with Dior aesthetics and we have got some really extreme accessories (with Yoon Ambush included in the work). Appears, it’s not first time for Arsham working for Dior – back in 2005, Hedi Slimane commissioned him to design Dior’ Homme’s LA flagship. Wll, I just think of time, when they let Kim Jones take over entire Dior house (with rumors on Maria Grazia heading to Fendi after SS 20 show).

GmbH   (21st June, 19:00)

Did you notice the evil eye? Hard not to! Serhat Isik and Benjamin Huseby literally decided to ”protect” models (and then customers) from the misfortune but making it look fashionable and wearable. Featuring the usual diverse and exotic casting, GmBH presented their best to date (imo) collection at the National Institute of Young Deaf People in Paris. It was all things GmbH does the best - tailoring mixed with sportswear paired with both formal and Asics collaboration shoes - and everything being as vegan as possible. Designer duo rapidly took the spot for one of the most anticipated shows at PFW and with every season they are showing a very logical development in all areas. They’ve easily made some of their signatures well-recognisable: would this be a double-zipper denim or their logo-branded pieces and now the broader introduction of accessories, they will surely strengthen their space in buyers order sheets and customers wallets - and the strange magical effect of the ”evil eye” should actually play the significant role.

SIES MARJAN   (22 June, 13:00)

Sander Lak is the latest designer to move from NY to Paris (a step that has not been effective for Proenza or Rodarte, but still works for Altuzarra) and take Opera Bastille as a location for its debut Parisian show. Starting from knitted jampsuit (season’s trend) continued with beautiful segment of beiges (denim and cotton) and colorful crocodile-effect faux leather outwear, show also included variations on zebra print. Most of the pieces felt quite gender-fluid - all the pieces that were worn by male models could be well put on 6 females that also walked the show. Except SS 2020, show also featured Fall 2019 capsule pieces that will be available for purchase now. It all felt very modern and easily wearable - everything we all need now.

OFFICINE GENERALE   (23 June, 10:00)

Peter Maheo always serves us with delightful Sunday morning breakfasts in Paris – no, there are no croissants or chocola-chauds, but some really chic Men’s clothes. I could spend entire Spring wearing the show’s opening look (mint tailored duo), or the second look, and third, and all of the 45 others. I love how Officine Generale has kept it consistent and doe not tries hard to present gimmicks that you can never wear – I just want them all!

LANVIN   (23 June, 11:00)

After all the past year’s shake-overs at LANVIN , it seems that brand is on the way to settle and reboots itself with a fresh new page. Will this become a successful book tome? Only time will tell, but the foreword looks promising. It was a first Men’s show for house’s new creative director, Bruno Sialelli (who went from Loewe) and what he presented to audience made everyone think about only one thing – holidays! Staged around one of Parisian public pools, the show featured everything (and more) you associate with holidays – nautical stripes, bucket hats, sailor collars and even sleeping bags – white and blue shades dominated. LANVIN men now also wears printed sequin dress, azur intarsia knit jacket on a naked body and lots of baggy jumpsuits – and it all feels very young and naïve.

ALYX   (23 June, 19:00)

Can we call it the coolest show of the season? It just amazes me how Matthew Williams managed to put the brand on top of the current fashion industry in such a short time. I guess the quality that you can feel all around the brand and a dedication that Matthew and her wife Jennifer Williams (who walked the show actually) put in their brand (they have moved from NY to Ferrara, Italy to oversee brand’s production in the local factories). The collection featured sharp and sophisticated shapes. Started with classy suits and quite sexy (women’s especially) looks, show continued with signature streetwear vibe, but it also felt very, very sophisticated and elegant (and that’s not wrong for streetwear, at all), outerwear was to die for - crocodile effect rubber-like coat just nailed it!

CELINE   (23 June, 20:00)

With the second standalone Men’s show under the label, Hedi Slimane has presented “nostalgia for things I probably have never known” (read embroidery on a tote bag). It was classic Hedi (and it’s now a definition of particular style, not a single designer aesthetic), classic 70’s but felt still modern for me (and many argue on that). There’s clearly a huge market for what he is doing and with Saint Laurent making shifts to detach itself from Hedi (and CELINE as a brand), sales should be heading to the desired peak (LVMH plans to double brand sales with the help of Hedi in a short time).

JACQUEMUS   (24 June, 17:00)

Do we need to say anything more on this show?

- - -

it was a season of SS 2019 (in June 2018) that made a huge breakthrough in Menswear – that was when Kim Jones and Virgil Abloh both had a debut seasons at Dior and Louis Vuitton and when Raf Simons returned to Paris – the craze that you could feel in Paris those days was insane, that was when everyone agreed that Menswear has its notable importance and it’s only gonna rise with every new season – with SS 2020 being fantastic continuation for that.

As we all know, with the arrival of new creative and image director, CELINE plans to expand into Menswear, Couture (SO F*CKIN EXCITING!) and Fragrances. Hedi Slimane has already presented his CELINE Menswear creations during the debut Spring/Sumer 2019 show (both men and women had the same amount of looks on the runway) but this separated outing must be the declaration of how important Menswear business is going to be for “NEW” CELINE.  I’m sure we all know what we are going to see on the runway, but for me there’s never enough of well-tailored menswear.

I’ve spotted Emily Ratajkowski at Milan’s cafeteria on Saturday morning and only word that came to my mind was “Versace”! I was right, she actually walked the show later at the evening where Men’s Fall/Winter 2019 collection was presented alongside with women’s Pre-Fall. 

Anticipation was high at Milan’s shows and in-between lunches during the day, everyone was eager to see what would Donatella Versace present with her first menswear show, since the acquisition by Capri Holdings (she already show Pre-Fall in New York, but the show was planned long before the sale). There was an exclusive interview with the diva designer at Financial Times (the day before show) where she complained about people’s comments that “Versace sold its soul to Michael Kors”. Donatella: “I don’t know why people thought Versace is becoming like Michael Kors? A medium, lower line. I mean with all due respect to Michael Kors . . . ” And she proved this today, with one of the most extravagant Men’s collections she has done. 

There were no muscles or naked bodies on the runway, continuing his Spring 2019 men’s collection about rule-breaking men, designer expanded the statement further for Fall. Show started with the (very hot-of-the-moment, cc Elio) harness print t-shirt, continued with black leather separates (some of them revealing sport short waists worn inside), 

then Kaia Gerber and Bella Hadid walked down, leopard (ultimate menswear trend of the season) came in not only the form of fabulous fur coat but the male model also sported leopard-pattern hair(!)

colors came in the form of various yellow outwear pieces, some of the suits had the vibrant feathers layered 

and then, Ford? No, not that Ford (Tom). But the actual Ford - the American automaker. First sighting of the infamous logo was on a white hoodie, smaller version then appeared on some trousers, shirts, leather jacket and mini-skirts (latter for a women). Can we count this particular collaboration as an echo of Versace’s new, American ownership? Donatella did not comment on this yet. 

At the end, show featured classic Versace print silk shirts and black tailored tailoring worn with none the less but colorful jersey shorts (my favorite, of them all!)

Accessories included mostly gold and leather mix necklaces, bracelets, safety pins, logo print scarves, socks and cross body bags in various colors of leather and prints. Ru Paul and Maria Callas were present in the form of sound.  

This collection (men’s ready-to-wear business has a similar ration to women’s at the Versace sales) is for someone who does sport a classy suit, runs a business but is ready for experiment himself, get into the new era, feel more freedom and power: "This newly found attitude gives him the freedom and security to ignore conventional norms around beauty, and even more so, around masculinity” - Donatella mentioned. “Only a confident man is able to see beyond the status quo and challenge it” - we are in for this!

He took us to the very end of 9th Metro line in an old warehouse just to show how one can “end” the white tee and hoodie hype with sexy, masculine, vibrant tailored (by the finest meaning of the word) pieces. The grounding and motifs that Raf established in 90s, were all notable. We all know how Raf heavily relies on images and using them in his own sometimes very “disturbing” way. This time, there were vintage pictures of punks, taken at Clash concert in Stockholm in 70s printed on various pieces. At first sight, they might not look so modern but it takes just little time to settle on your mind, make you think about them.

My (and most of the attendees) personal highlights were, colorful satin oversized coats that looked absolutely sexy, which is not that easy to achieve with such vibrant tones – a reddish pink, fuchsia and emerald green - “I was thinking of Yves Saint Laurent, when he was doing his incredible color combinations” – Simons said.

A strong accent on a color in menswear is a very noticeable this season and Raf has undoubtedly offered one of the most exciting palettes (with Louis Vuitton neons and Dior’s pink suits being another example). Now about the most important part – many of the pieces were cut and tailored using women’s haute couture techniques in Parisian atelier and you could feel all of that with every single piece, despite the darkness we were standing in.  There was a lot more – scarves masterfully tuck into the giant front pockets of the coats, bazaar bags made from hand-cut leather with silver cans stuck in them, and many, many more.

We were treated with an after party right after the show with Naomi Campbell, who has been wearing some of Raf (both his Calvin Klein or namesake creations) lately - not bad at all.

Jacquemus has already shared a sneak peaks from the collection, featuring French Rugby player Yoann Maestri, as first Jacquemus man, fronting the campaign. Collection will be titled as “Le Gadjo”-  a gypsy expression meaning a man that belongs to no community and same word also being used as a “boy” in the south of France. 

Here’s quote from designer’s press release:

"L’Homme Jacquemus, Very happy to annouce that I will show my first menswear collection in the south of France on the 25th of June. Also super proud that I shot Yoann Maestri, the French Union International rugby player as the first Jacquemus man. A new chapter for myself and Jaquemus now begins." 

Dear Stella, why don’t you just stick and dedicate all of your time and talent to the Menswear ? I mean, I love Ms. McCartney’s womenswear, for sure, but her take on men’s clothing is an absolute excitement! Being of the most anticipated steps of last year’s menswear fashion business, Stella proved that you can still give the fresh look to the classic men’s pieces, twist them and then add playful touch to make it very McCartney. These days, it’s very rare to say “I WANT EVERY PIECE FROM THE COLLECTION", though that’s how I feel every time I look at Stella Menswear. Her debut SS17 was marvellous, and I was intrigued to see Fall 2017 offering, to see Stella’s Menswear Coat, cause for me Stella means fabulous coats!

“I think we celebrate the relationship between our women and our men. It’s a true friendship, with a great deal of equality. There’s fragility in both, strength in both.” - Stella comments about her expansion in menswear.  Released today, as a see-now-buy-now collection, you spot many classics there (even the clock in the lookbook shows standard 10:10, as in every single watch advertisement) - camel, grey and red checks, colorful knits, they’re all twisted with signature Stella cuts and styling. 

Stella says, that “weird music heritage” made her think about how men used to dress. “I looked at my dad and his peers, at punk, at rave, at different moments in music history. There was so much more exploration.” But there’s more of the story: some of the jackets were actually adapted from one of her dad’s, Sir Paul McCartney’s old jackets (a chance to own piece of the legend). “For the boots, I went to Olivia Harrison’s house and found five pairs of shoes in a box.” - Stella says (and I’m telling you these leopard print shoes are going to be major, even me, not an usual fan of the print, I would wear them right now!).  Oh and this coat below...

CLICK HERE FOR FULL COLLECTION

And, of course, how could any collection today be without social message? But this one, PREACH!

Collection will be available from July, here, in Stella stores and department stores worldwide.