Last year on this day, we buried a woman who was the heart of our family. She was sweet, funny, clever, and one of the best cooks I ever knew. Just over a month ago, we lost another matriarch of our family, a day before my birthday. This is the first Samhain I’ve never had any of my grannies with me. In honor of these beautiful women, I’m making Granny Ada’s stack cake. It’s one of the best dishes, a traditional Appalachian recipe that makes full use of the bounty of fall. This will, I think, be a new tradition in my family, to honor these amazing women who taught me so much.