One More Coat: Marfy F6107

Already hints of the spring patterns are coming out, but since it is currently snowing by me, I thought I would share a coat that could be for worn as we move towards early spring. The baby blue version especially seems perfect for spring. This is a Marfy pattern, an Italian line, which is carried by Vogue Patterns in the US. This slim coat has a large pointed shawl collar that can be worn open or closed, princess lines, and on-seam pockets in the front. The sleeves are set-in and I suspect they are two pieces which means they are shaped to the slight bend of the arm.

They suggest velour for fabric, by which I think they mean wool velour, or boiled wool, but I could see this in all kinds of medium-weight coatings and in even lighter weights if you live where it doesn’t get that cold. With all the seams, you want a solid or a very small woven pattern.

Remember, Marfy patterns proclaim they are for the “expert.” You get the pattern pieces and even those don’t have seam allowances or hem allowances, but that’s about it. No diagrams for cutting layouts on the fabric are offers and no instructions for assembly. So, unless you are confident in your ability to work out the construction, a muslin would be in order to test not only the fit, but the construction.

@beyondfabric

Jacket: Norwegian Rain

In The Swing, 1950s Swing Coat, Simplicity 8509

You know I love a swing coat, if your read my posts about the charming coral number I found in an antique mall and have been wearing for the last few chilly weeks. Simplicity has re-issued in modern sizes a 1950s swing coat or jacket with a shawl collar. Like my vintage coat, it has raglan sleeves and is darted at the front to shape to the neck. It also has bound buttonholes and welt pockets. If you are afraid of either of those, you can do machine-made buttonholes and opt for drafting your own patch pockets, and do give them a rounded bottom that echoes the collar.

There are all sorts of options with the pattern which is why it is so appealing. Do it long or short. Close it with with buttons, or don’t. Add the wide turn back cuffs that make for three-quarter sleeves, or go for narrow cuffs that gather in the fullness and remind me of painters’ smocks. The fabrics recommended range from the spring and summer ones of linen and pique and taffeta to the fall and winter wools. Not too heavy so as not to weight you down. They even suggest that the short jacket be done in a low-pile fur and I instantly thought of the faux Persian lamb coats of the era. All versions are lined, and of course, this is going to take some yardage. From more than 3 to more than 5 yards for the long coat depending on the width of your bolt to more than 2 to more than 3 for the jacket. So make sure you love the fabric.

Beene’s Flared Coat, Vogue 2232

Spring has me thinking of lightweight coats and this one from Geoffrey Beene from 1998 offers up a flare with an unusual dipped hemline at the sides. Although today such hemlines are common especially in cardigan sweaters, it was rarer at the time. I am partial to coats with collars myself, but the cut of this coat is intriguing with a flare of almost 80 inches for the jacket and over 120 inches for the long version . The front pieces extend to the side back and then there is another piece for the center back, and a little inset shaped like an ice cream cone at the upper back neckline.  There is no shoulder seam and the lower edge of the two-piece sleeves is also dipped. The fabrics recommended are pique, matelasse, and gabardine. There is no lining, so clean finishing is called for on the seams. 

Beautiful A-line sweater coat. Double breast button front closure. Perfect new baby, baby shower, or birthday gift. Perfect addition to a new outfit. Choice of color combinations. Button color choices may differ based on availability but will try to match trim color.