#smart-buying

A month ago, Ford kicked off a huge round of incentives that seemed unusual even by Detroit standards. Four weeks later, Ford’s “Friends and Neighbors” has been kicked to the curb after Ford found out a painful lesson: New-car buyers need to borrow money to actually buy cars.

While Ford’s overall sales were up 0.4 percent in November from a year earlier, all of that gain came from its F-Series pickup and van lines. Sport utility sales slid 10 percent, while car sales were down 13 percent, paced by a 25 percent drop in Ford Focus sales.

Yet Ford execs sounded upbeat when talking about the month, pointing to the money that came in the door. Despite the “Friends and Neighbors” push, the average total incentive was unchanged from the month before (about $3,360 per vehicle, according to TrueCar.) And the average selling price jumped by $3,700 from the month before, the most of any automaker.

Mark LaNeve, Ford’s sales chief, said the deal had given people reason to buy more expensive and fully-loaded models, but had also left some buyers out because it lacked the zero-percent loans that have become standard in the past year on many models. With 85 percent of all new-vehicle sales backed by a loan, that hit the buyers who needed the most help—i.e., Focus customers.

“Even if you're getting to the same payment by other means, just the availability of low interest financing—it's just a major component of the way customers are shopping now,” LaNeve told reporters and analysts Tuesday.

Photo: pyntofmyld | Flickr

Sorry, Millennials, but even the cars your parents shuttled you to school in are being left behind.

There are still a whole lot of people looking for 1990s cars, but that number decreases with each passing year. Mark Williams, analyst for Kelley Blue Book, did some digging and found that vehicles from the ‘90s are on a consistent decline, which he doesn’t find at all surprising.

“As new model years are introduced to the market, the older model years are being suppressed and yield less interest,” he says. “For example, the most shopped 1990s models are 1999, 1998, 1997, respectively.”

Williams pulled up the Top 25 cars from the 1990s searched on Kelley Blue Book and came up with the Honda Accord, Toyota Camry, Honda Civic, Jeep Wrangler, Ford F-150, Jeep Grand Cherokee, Ford Mustang and Toyota Corolla among the top 10. Much of that group’s current models are still among the best sellers in the U.S. In fact, discontinued rarities such as the Chevy Blazer, Saturn S-Series and Cadillac DeVille scarcely crack the Top 20.

We spoke with the folks at KBB and used car pricing site CarGurus and came up with the 10 cars from the '90s that anyone cares about in great numbers anymore:

Photo: Zach Dischner | Flickr

10. Toyota 4Runner

A reliable off-road vehicle is hard to come by, but a cheap one is especially rare. Sure, the '90s models are roomy, have a power-sliding rear window and may have appeared in a hip-hop video or two, but the fact that their owners typically don’t have to put a whole lot of maintenance into them is a big seller. That, and they’re still beasts on trails and dunes. This is no crossover. The body-on-frame construction that its competitors ditched in favor of unibody chassis long ago is still with the 2014 4Runner today. With Toyota just dropping the FJ Cruiser and the cost of a '90s 4Runner in the low- to mid-four figures, though, it might pay to stick with the classic.

“Our site gets a lot of traffic from enthusiasts who are not always looking for maximal value, but they are looking for something distinctive in a car,” says Steve Halloran, content and social media manager for CarGurus. “Either something that will take them pretty much anywhere they want to go or something that they can haul huge loads with. The 4Runner has a niche that it pretty much fills all by itself.”

Photo: Phil Darnell | Flickr

9. Jeep Grand Cherokee

Born in 1993, the Grand Cherokee was designed to give an off-road vehicle some luxury comfort. Though drivers in the '90s turned them into the hulking grocery getters that took the “U” out of SUVs and gave the whole class a bad name, the '90s Grand Cherokee has been redeemed by off roaders. The 1999 model received 4.2 out of five stars from CarGurus readers for both its ground clearance and how it handles snow. It only took about 16 years and a switch to a crossover platform for people to love the original Grand Cherokees for their intended purpose.

“If you’re looking for a car to modify and want to take it out in the woods and beat the crap out of it, you’re not going to want to spend a whole lot of money on it,” Halloran says. “A beater SUV is going to be a great place to start for somebody who wants to do that with their vehicle.”

Photo: Brenden Ashton | Flickr

8. Toyota Camry It’s still the best-selling car in the U.S. today and one of the Top 5 selling vehicles overall. Why? Because it’s reliable enough to still have a whole lot of '80s and '90s models on the road. It’s been in the U.S. since 1983, and just about every model year has adequate representation on our streets and highways. It is one of the most boring, uninspiring cars available, but you can’t kill it without a whole lot of effort or blunt force. It’s built to last and not ashamed of it in the least.

“The older a car you can buy used, the less expensive it’s going to be,” Halloran says. “A lot of the cars on our list are incredibly long-lived vehicles. The Camry, the Accord, the Civic — these are all cars that are recognized for the fact that they retain their value well because they run reliably for hundreds of thousands of miles, and any buyer who’s looking for value should be starting with those cars.”

Photo: Greg Gjerdingen | Flickr

7. Ford Mustang The Mustang brand is an icon, but the generations of Mustangs can sow discord between the most fervent fans. Aside from Lee Iacocca’s Mustang II of the late '70s, perhaps no form of the Mustang divides allegiances as much as the long, Fox-body platform of the '80s and '90s. The latter decade, in particular, was an incredibly tough time for the vehicle. The last of the original Fox-body generation drew attention from Vanilla Ice, who name-dropped his 5.0-liter dream machine in both Ice, Ice, Baby and over a Steve Miller sample in the less-subtle Rollin’ In My 5.0.

It was a huge relief, then, when the vehicle’s fourth generation was released in 1993 with a brawnier engine and a less boxy exterior. It was a much-needed upgrade that became a huge favorite almost immediately. It boosted sales by almost 40,000 vehicles in a year and nearly doubled the 1992 total just three years later. Sales peaked at 203,000 Mustangs by 2000, which is almost miraculous considering Mustang sales have fluctuated between 67,000 and 82,000 since the recession.

6. Ford Ranger Nobody asked Ranger drivers if they wanted to keep this vehicle around. The last time Ford gave the Ranger a complete generational overhaul was 1992. The last time it gave the Ranger a redesign was 1998.

Sure, people love the Ford Ranger, because it was discontinued in 2011 and they’ll take whatever version of Ford’s small truck they can get. The reason they’ll still buy '90s versions, however, is because they’re cheap and a reminder of the last time Ford gave a damn about this truck. You can still get new Toyota Tacomas, and General Motors just revived the Chevrolet Colorado/GMC Canyon, but the Ford Ranger lives only in the used car listings, and there are still a whole lot of them to go around.

5. Honda Civic This isn’t where we give you the Toyota Camry spiel about huge sales numbers and reliability.

Sure, there are still people who buy '90s Civics for that reason, but there are typically two traits that draw a certain buyer base to these cars: fast and furious. Tuners absolutely love the Civic because it’s really easy to modify. It’s a fuel-sipping, smooth-handling family car, sure, but you can turn it into something a whole lot louder and prouder without a whole lot of investment. It’s perhaps the one car that soccer moms and their teenage kids find themselves competing for in the used car listings.

4. Ford F-150

Not exactly a huge surprise. Ford crows constantly about the fact that its F-Series has produced the best-selling vehicles in the U.S. for more than three decades. But it wasn’t until 1999 that Ford started explicitly targeting everyday drivers by pulling the F-150 away from commercial use in favor of the Super Duty F-250 and F-350. The '90s introduced the F-150 as a family car, an everyday commuter and a mall hauler. Put as many tough-guy accessories on it as you’d like, but after the '90s the F-150 had more in common with the Explorer than it did with its heavy hauling F-Series siblings.

But it shouldn’t be discounted that the '90s F-150s, like most '90s cars, belong to one of the last generations of vehicles that most owners had some hope of fixing themselves.

3. Honda Accord

Yep, now we’re back in Camry territory. Honda pretty much nailed the ’90s family sedan when it made the Accord. It’s safe, reliable, dependable and great for everyday use, even more than years after production. It doesn’t have the tuner cred of the Civic, but the reliable, standard-issue midsize lives to be boring.

“They’ve sold well just about every year they’ve been available,” Halloran says. “The Accord, the Camry and the Civic run well always.“

2. Chevrolet Corvette The '90s Vette? Really?

Lacking the classic lines of its '60s and '70s stingray predecessors, the late-80s and '90s Corvettes looked like Barbie dream cars at best and pale caricatures of a sports car at worst. The performance was still there, but it had all the personality of something you’d expect a weekend warrior to park in a Sonoma tasting room’s parking lot.

Performance cars are often wrongly equated with a midlife crisis, but considering just how often the Japanese, German and Italian automakers were handing GM its lunch at this time, the Corvette was a rolling version of that. That said, it’s still a Corvette and there are no shortage of folks who’d still like to retire in one, albeit on the cheap. This fits that depressing bill.

1. Jeep Wrangler

Consider this the '90s anti-Vette. Sure, Jeeps are always coveted for their off-road capability and for their iconic look, but the Wrangler lost a bit of its identity when AMC and Chrysler made it a boxier, square-eyed, more '80s version of itself.

That all changed in 1997, when Chrysler brought back the rounded headlights from when it was known simply as the Jeep CJ, put the turn signals back on the front fenders and basically made it look like a Jeep again. There was no stretched-out “unlimited” version, no modified grill and nothing but the classic Jeep experience. For a whole lot of used car buyers, that’s still good enough. ”It’s the look,” Halloran says. “As the Wrangler got a little softer, it lost some of its appeal to die-hard fans for sure.”

— Written by Jason Notte in Portland, Ore., for MainStreet

When you’re in the market for your next car, there’s a dizzying array of factors to consider. Road-test performance, fuel economy, safety, reliability, and price and owner costs are chief among them. These objective measures can help winnow down a field of prospects rather quickly, identifying a select few standout models. Here, we present the castaways—those models that you should filter out due to their exceptional shortcomings.

Based on our research and test drives, these are the 10 cars that you’d be a fool to buy.

Explore our various best and worst car lists and use our new-car selector interactive tool to see what other low-scoring models you can identify and check out the impressive models that top the lists.

—Jeff Bartlett

Least reliable: Fiat 500L

Base MSRP price range: $19,295 - $24,595

Fiat-Chrysler sits at the bottom of the pack, with four of its brands—Dodge, Ram, Jeep, and Fiat—sweeping our least-reliable rankings. The Fiat 500L is currently the least reliable new car, with a predicted reliability score that is 219 percent worse than average. Looked at another way, the 500L has about 16 times the problem rate of the most reliable car, the long-in-the tooth but ironclad Scion xB. (The smaller Fiat 500 is better, but it still scores poor for reliability.) In case you’re still tempted by this unique Italian hatchback, a 50-point overall road test score should further discourage you from adding this model to your shopping list.

Lowest owner satisfaction: Jeep Compass

Base MSRP price range: $18,995 - $28,495

Despite a recent freshening, the Jeep Compass remains outdated and uncompetitive. But don’t just take our word for it: Owners have given the Compass the lowest satisfaction rating of all current cars, with just 43 percent stating that they would get this same car if they had to do it all over again. The satisfaction details show the areas that disappointed most are comfort and fuel economy, followed by drive experience, features, and cargo space. (Key lesson here: Most of those elements could be readily evaluated on a test drive.) The fuel economy is understandable, as that is likely a key draw for an affordable four-cylinder SUV and the real-world performance is far from stellar. In our tests, the Compass returned 22 mpg overall, putting it at the thirsty end for its class, while also being among the slowest small SUVs with a 0-60 mph crawl at 10.3 seconds. Not a satisfying combination. To top it off, Compass reliability has dropped to well below average.

Lowest-scoring car: Mitsubishi Mirage

29 overall score

Base MSRP price range: $12,995 - $15,395

Lows: Clumsy handling, noise, vibration, acceleration, feels really cheap and insubstantial.

The Mitsubishi Mirage lives up to its name. While its low sticker price and good fuel economy of 37 mpg overall may conjure up an inviting image of an enticing, economical runabout, that illusion quickly dissipates into the haze when you drive this regrettable car. Built in Thailand, this little hatchback is powered by a tiny, vibrating three-cylinder engine. Its handling is so clumsy, it leans in corners like a drunken sailor. To make it saleable, Mitsubishi primed the pump with a rather impressive list of standard features. But the car is way too slow and noisy, even for a cheap subcompact, to effectively compete in this competitive class. Further lowering its standing is its Poor score in the Insurance Institute of Highway Safety small-overlap crash test.

Lowest-scoring SUV: Jeep Compass

52 overall score

Base MSRP price range: $18,995 - $28,495

Lows: Engine noise, acceleration, driving position, front-seat comfort, rear visibility, cornering limits, braking, reliability.

Despite the front face mimicking the look of the impressive Grand Cherokee, the Compass is a mediocre car. The engine is noisy and lacks punch. Handling is unimpressive, the seats are second-rate, and the driving position is flawed. The cabin feels claustrophobic, visibility is problematic, and access is hampered by a tall sill. On the credit side, road noise is low, the ride is absorbent, and controls are simple and straightforward. However, at 52 points out of 100 in our battery of tests, the Compass scores too low to be recommended. (Technically, the lowest SUV score belongs to the Jeep Wrangler at a mere 20 points. But given that most potential buyers would be drawn to the off-road ability or nostalgia factor, we realize it has some redeeming factors. So we awarded the dubious distinction to the lowest-scoring conventional crossover or SUV.)

Lowest-scoring truck: Toyota Tacoma

49 overall score

Base MSRP price range: $20,965 - $37,615

Lows: Ride, handling, driving position, high step-in, low rear seat.

With a punchy powertrain, the Toyota Tacoma excels for hauling, towing, and off-road use. But for everyday driving or commuting, the Tacoma feels dated and is uncomfortable. Clumsy handling makes it a chore to drive, and the rough ride is fatiguing, with constant jiggling and a rubbery feel over even small imperfections. The cabin’s high floor and low roof make access tricky and compromise the driving position. The rust-free composite bed is a handy and practical feature. Options can easily drive up the price well into full-sized truck territory. Fair cornering capabilities and long stopping distances contributed to a low score in our testing. A redesigned Tacoma launches in the fall.

Most expensive to own midsized sedan: Volkswagen Passat (V6)

Base MSRP price range: $21,340 - $35,995

The midsized Passat sedan has a lot going for it, including generous interior space, responsive handling, and a comfortable, quiet ride. The primary powertrain is an energetic 1.8-liter turbo four-cylinder and a six-speed automatic. High-end versions use a powerful 3.6-liter V6. Front seats are accommodating but very firm. Extra-spacious rear seats are a big plus, and the trunk is huge. But, this appealing package comes at a price. The owner costs (factoring depreciation, interest, insurance, sales tax, fuel, maintenance, and repair) make it the most expensive midsized sedan to own, costing an estimated $44,750 to own for five years. The best in the class is the Toyota Camry Hybrid XLE at $31,250. This is a clear reminder to look beyond the purchase price in figuring out if a car fits your budget.

Worst value midsized sedan: Nissan Altima V6

Base MSRP price range: $22,300 - $31,950

The well-rounded, roomy Altima delivers excellent fuel economy. But it is a poor value, ranking dead last among midsized sedans. To assess value, we factor overall road-test scores, predicted reliability, and five-year cost ownership. This results in a value score relative to the average value for all vehicles. Among midsized sedans, the Altima V6 is the only model ranked below average. Simply put: All competitors deliver more for the money. A key element in this calculation, the Altima V6 is the only model in the class with much-worse-than-average predicted reliability.

Worst value small SUV: Jeep Cherokee

Base MSRP price range: $22,995 - $30,795

This small SUV could be a contender, but the Dodge Dart-based Cherokee is too underdeveloped and unrefined. If you have your heart set on one, get the 3.2-liter V6 in Limited trim. It has a much higher overall road test score, and it is all around more pleasant. However, it ranks at the bottom of the class for value. The bottom four small SUVs are (in descending order) the Jeep Patriot, Cherokee V6, Compass, and Cherokee 4-cyl. Feels like a pattern. The Cherokee four-cylinder is slow and gets lousy fuel economy for the class. Factor in a lowly 58-point test score and much-worse-than-average predicted reliability, and the value tale is a sad one. At least owner costs are better than average, but that can’t make up for the shortcomings. Owners agree, giving the Cherokee a below-average satisfaction score.

Worst fuel economy: Nissan Armada—13 mpg overall

Base MSRP price range: $38,060 - $53,330 As the name implies, the Nissan Armada is a massive vehicle that requires an entire fleet to service is fuel needs. Ancient in its class, the Armada’s 5.6-liter V8 ingests regular gasoline at a rate of 13 mpg overall. Around town, expect just 9 mpg. Yes, single digits. It is as if this peculiarly styled behemoth were on a singular mission to extract every last drop of dino juice from the ground. Fortunately, the Armada has a generous 28-gallon fuel tank, giving it a 370-mile cruising range. For a typical driver, the Armada will gulp 905 gallons a year. By contrast, the Chevrolet Tahoe is relatively frugal at 16 mpg overall and an annual consumption of 755 gallons. Looking at the bigger picture, the Armada has a five-year owner cost of $67,250, which translates to $1.12 per mile. Plan your errands accordingly…

Worst used car: Mini Cooper S

When it comes to choosing a used car, you can put the odds on your side by choosing a model that performed well when new and has a great reliability track record. Of course, reliability hiccups can happen with any used car, but the Mini Cooper S has the worst history among all cars we have tracked over the past decade. Sure, the car is cute and delightfully entertaining, but year after year, the likelihood of having a problem that requires a repair is heartbreaking. And among the 17 trouble spots we track, engine major, engine minor, engine cooling, fuel system, body integrity, and body hardware have issues at an alarming rate. Although Consumer Reports often recommends skipping an extended warranty, the Mini Cooper S is a case where the investment would be a good hedge against potential problems. Joining the Mini Cooper S as among the worst used cars are the Chevrolet Cruze 1.4T and Ford Fiesta—although these models have fewer model years to anchor their position among the worst of the worst.

More from Consumer Reports: Hits and misses from Consumer Reports’ testing Best & worst car values Best new cars for under $25,000

You've met the winners--now it's time for the also-rans. The Car Connection reviews more than 250 new vehicles each year, and we rate and rank each of them to arrive at a total score. Inevitably, there are the cars (including trucks, SUVs and minivans) that fare poorly in our ratings. A low score doesn't always mean a vehicle should be avoided at all costs. Some simply aren't up to the class standard; some are designed with good intentions, but lack in execution. Often, a low score means a vehicle just doesn't meet the stringent new crash-test standards set in just the past few years. When we tally the results of all our driving, reviewing, and scoring, these emerge as the lowest-rated vehicles for the 2015 model year. More at High Gear Media Best SUVs For Tall Drivers Toyota Camry Vs. Honda Accord: Compare Cars Bugatti Veyron Successor To Do 0-60 MPH In 2.0 Seconds: Report Latest LaFerrari Crash Is Worst Yet--Photo Update

2015 Scion iQ

The two-plus-seater Scion iQ scores higher than two vehicles in our rankings, mostly because it's styled with some attention to detail and has fair crash-test scores, especially for its size. What it doesn't have is acceleration or grip in any sizable measure. It's also not as efficient as cars a size class larger. Its chief selling point is easy parking--a selling point that's critical to very few buyers. For about the same money, Scion's own xD is a much better vehicle--which could explain why the iQ is being discontinued.

Source: Yahoo Autos

2015 Fiat 500

Fiat's European-sized 500 hatchback is a family of vehicles, and a couple of them have our undivided attention. The 500e is one of the most entertaining electric vehicles you can buy (or lease)--provided you live in a place where they're available. The Abarth variants turn the 500 into a snarling Hellrat, full of guttural noises and sharp-edged thrust that's almost unbelievable in its niche. The rest of the lineup lacks those charms, and is compromised by a very small interior with an awkward driving position, good but not great fuel economy, and very poor safety ratings.

Source: Yahoo Autos

2015 Toyota Prius C

The Toyota Prius C wears the enviable family name, but like the Scion iQ, the chief logic behind buying a C is for its size. If you truly need a vehicle that will fit into certain spaces, it's an excellent choice, with decent interior space and features to boot. If you can stretch out a bit more, and stretch your spending, the hallmark Prius liftback is a better choice, and gets better fuel economy as well.

Source: Yahoo Autos

2015 Nissan Juke

The Nissan Juke crossover SUV is divisive, and it doesn't need to be. It's Nissan's only small ute, but it's styled too aggressively for mainstream success. That by itself might be fine, but the Juke's also tuned as more of a performance vehicle--it has a thrilling but peaky drivetrain and a relentlessly brittle ride. Safety scores and equipment are lacking. It's neither a competitive, mainstream crossover nor the finely honed MINI alternative it seems to want to be.

Source: Yahoo Autos

2015 Toyota Yaris

We might actually enjoy driving the Toyota Yaris more than the larger Corolla; it has a certain wringable, flingable driving feel that's easier to nail in small cars. At best, though, the Yaris is relentlessly average, even where it tries to reach for higher ground in styling.

Source: Yahoo Autos

2015 Chevrolet Spark

Some cars with low ratings deserve a look, under limited circumstances. The Chevrolet Spark is a cute little hatchback that has lots of virtue as a second or third car, particularly for city use--and particularly in its battery-powered Spark EV form, currently on amazing lease deals in three states. The Spark loses its charm outside of that realm; for most drivers, the bigger, quieter Chevy Cruze offers so much more, for not much extra cash.

Source: Yahoo Autos

2015 Mazda5

A Mazda minivan? It's full of the contradictions you might expect--good handling, decent styling, smaller-than-average interior space (though still quite usable). What it doesn't have: good safety ratings. A minivan simply has to have excellent scores across the board to make it a sensible family choice, and the Mazda5's poor small-overlap crash test scores put it near the bottom of the family-hauler rankings.

Source: Yahoo Autos

2015 Nissan Versa

Our rather dim assessment of the Nissan Versa applies more to the sedan than to the Versa Note hatchback, a better-looking and better-handling vehicle tagged with the same nameplate. The sedan sports excellent interior space, but ungainly styling, awkward handling, and unfortunately low crash-test scores.

Source: Yahoo Autos

2015 Toyota Tacoma

With a overall TCC Rating of 62, the Toyota Tacoma has low scores across the board. The cabin is packaged poorly, even for a pickup truck. The Tacoma's fuel economy is nothing special, and on-road ride and handling are a low in the mid-size truck segment. GM's new mid-sizers, the Canyon and Colorado, are much better choices in virtually every dimension.

Source: Yahoo Autos

2015 Mitsubishi Mirage

The Mitsubishi Mirage ties the Tacoma with our lowest numeric rating, but does it primarily through its performance score. There's just not much of it: you won't find any joy rowing the Mirage's gearbox or throttling its four-cylinder for all it's worth. Lower scores in styling and interior comfort are offset somewhat by reasonable safetyratings and a strong fuel-economy score.

What a time for a horsepower enthusiast to be alive. For decades following the muscle-car heyday of the 1960s, concerns over fuel economy and emissions pushed powerful yet affordable models to the brink of extinction. In 1975, the Chevrolet Corvette – America’s original supercar – came standard with a 350 cubic-inch V-8 that wheezed out 165 horsepower. That’s 20 fewer ponies than a base-model 2015 Honda Accord sedan. Today, high-output engines are more reliable and more drivable than ever before. This new breed of supercar won’t necessarily cost a fortune to insure, either. True, the insurance bill for nearly every car on this list is likely to exceed $1,555, the average annual cost to insure a car in our 2015 survey of car insurance rates by model. But then again, no car on this list puts out less than 365 horsepower – and one model puts out nearly twice that. Here are seven models that offer serious bang for your insurance buck, as ranked by insurance cost per unit of horsepower. More at Insure.com How to get cheap car insurance online Best car insurance companies Non-owner car insurance: Coverage for drivers who don’t own a car=

Cheap thrills: 7 cars with high horsepower, reasonable insurance

7. Dodge Charger R/T

Insurance cost per horsepower: $4.53 (370 horsepower, $1,676 average annual premium) It’s no mystery why Detroit has recycled some of its famed muscle-car monikers in recent years. Beyond the obvious aesthetic nods to the Chargers of the 1960s and early 1970s, the 2015 Charger R/T shares the same Hemi engine design (named for its hemispherical combustion chambers) that graced some of the most potent past Chargers. The new Hemi is fuel-injected and laced to a modern TorqueFlite eight-speed automatic transmission and 20-inch wheels. But at an MSRP of $33,595, it remains within reach for many budget-minded enthusiasts – particularly since its 25 mpg highway fuel efficiency rating bests virtually any Hemi Charger of generations past.

Source: Yahoo Autos

6. Chevrolet Corvette Stingray

Insurance cost per horsepower: $4.14 (460 horsepower, $1,905 average annual premium) A Corvette is probably not the first car you imagine when someone says “affordable insurance.” Yet the Corvette’s appeal to older, more affluent buyers – the type who may be less likely to wrap their rides around a tree trunk than a 19-year-old street racer – help keep its insurance costs comfortably out of GT-R territory. (The 2015 Nissan GT-R comes with an average annual premium of $3,574.)  Generally, the fewer insurance claims that owners of a particular model make, the lower the car insurance rates for future buyers of that model will be. Still, the newest Vette is capable of things that its asthmatic 1975 counterpart could only dream of. With a 0-to-60 time of 3.8 seconds and a fuel-efficiency rating of 29 mpg on the highway, the new Stingray is a formidable opponent for nearly any Corvette produced in the nameplate’s storied 62-year history. Its $55,000 base price also places it among the most reasonably priced 450-plus horsepower models available today.

Source: Yahoo Autos

5. Ford Taurus SHO AWD

Insurance cost per horsepower: $4.06 (365 horsepower, $1,481 average annual premium) To the casual observer, there’s scarcely any reason that the Chevrolet Corvette and the Ford Taurus should ever be compared to each other. But the Taurus SHO – the lesser-known, “super-high output” version of Ford’s ubiquitous four-door sedan – has periodically offered an exception to this rule since it first appeared in 1989. In 2015, a twin-turbo V-6 and paddle-shifter-equipped six-speed automatic transmission are the highlights of this notorious sleeper. But what’s most remarkable about the Taurus SHO in this context is not its all-wheel-drive configuration or sub-6-second 0-to-60 capabilities. Instead, it’s the better-than-average annual insurance premium that comes with it: The Taurus is 5 percent cheaper to insure than the average 2015 vehicle, and it’s 10 percent cheaper to insure than any other vehicle on this list.

Source: Yahoo Autos

4. Kia K900

Insurance cost per horsepower: $3.93 (420 horsepower, $1,652 annual premium) Speaking of sleepers, few would expect anything with a Kia badge to put out north of 400 horsepower, but that’s precisely what the K900 does. While its $59,900 base price speaks to a different class of buyer than those who might consider, say, a Kia Rio, the K900 Luxury’s insurance costs are only 6 percent higher than the average 2015 model. In fact, they’re only a bit higher than the subcompact Rio, whose 138 ponies costs $10.28 apiece to insure ($1,418 average annual premium). Its “Luxury” designation is also worth noting if you appreciate a few creature comforts with your horsepower: A 17-speaker surround-sound system, multimedia driver information system and heated and ventilated driver and front passenger seats all come standard as well.

Source: Yahoo Autos

3. Ford Mustang GT

Insurance cost per horsepower: $3.77 (435 horsepower, $1,639 average annual premium) From its inception, Ford’s Mustang has been synonymous with affordable performance. Fortunately for buyers of the 2015 GT, this characteristic holds true for this model’s insurance costs as well. The Mustang is the second-cheapest car to insure on this list, and its base price of $32,300 also makes it the least expensive car on this list to purchase. The 5.0-liter V-8 engine can power the Mustang from 0 to 60 in 4.4 seconds and through the quarter mile in 12.8 seconds, according to Motor Trend. But it’s not built only for straight lines: It also boasts a new independent-rear-suspension set-up that should aid grip when the road (or track) turns curvy.

Source: Yahoo Autos

2. Chevrolet Camaro ZL1

Insurance cost per horsepower: $3.38 (580 horsepower, $1,960 average annual premium) Many of today’s fastest cars get their horsepower from either forced induction or good old-fashioned displacement. But the ZL1 Camaro and its 6.2-liter supercharged V-8 opts for both, delivering the second-highest power output of the vehicles on this list. Its 12.2-second quarter-mile time and 3.9-second 0-to-60 time prove that the Camaro chassis is capable of putting the engine’s 556 foot-pounds of torque to the ground in impressive fashion. The Camaro’s annual premium makes it the most expensive car to insure on this list, and its $55,505 starting price places it on the pricier side of that spectrum. Yet only one car on this list delivers more power than the Camaro – every other machine gives up more than 100 horsepower to it – and it’s clear that the Camaro can hold its own through corners, likely more so than even the No. 1 car.

Source: Yahoo Autos

1. Dodge Challenger SRT Hellcat

Insurance cost per horsepower: $2.66 (707 horsepower, $1,879 average annual premium) The Hellcat is all about superlatives – highest horsepower, most torque, fastest quarter-mile times – so it’s no surprise that the insurance-cost-per-horsepower stat for this $59,995 Dodge puts every other contender’s number to shame. What’s mind-boggling, though, is that despite being capable of 11.7-second quarter-mile times – a figure that many far more expensive supercars cannot touch – the Challenger is not the most expensive vehicle (or even the second most expensive vehicle) to insure on this list. Yes, its annual premium is still 20 percent higher than the average 2015 vehicle. But considering that it puts out roughly 380 percent the horsepower of the Accord mentioned in the introduction – to say nothing of that poor Corvette – many will consider this trade-off more than fair.

Source: Yahoo Autos

Why some muscle cars are cheap to insure It’s not about horsepower. Insurance companies look at claims to establish a risk profile for a car the same way they look at a driving record to rate a driver. Cars with a history of more frequent or more expensive claims will be comparatively more expensive to insure. That has the odd consequence of making some muscle cars less expensive to insure than an econobox at half the price with half the horsepower. With the same driver behind the wheel, the 435-horsepower Mustang GT costs about the same to insure as a 179-horsepower Scion TC. Average rates were compared based on full coverage for a single 40-year-old male who commutes 12 miles to work each day and chooses policy limits of 100/300/50 ($100,000 for injury liability for one person, $300,000 for all injuries and $50,000 for property damage in an accident) and a $500 deductible on collision and comprehensive coverage. This driver has a clean driving record and good credit. You can get quotes for more models on the Insure.com car insurance rates page. Your driving record and other personal factors, along with the claims record of your car, ultimately determine what you pay.

Need new wheels but have a tight budget? Don’t let that frustrate or worry you. There are a wide variety of models out there to suit your needs, and it’s easy to find a solid, reliable car with all the features you need. Just follow a few simple rules:

Look for a car with a good reliability track record. It’s no guarantee of finding an example that doesn’t have problems, but choosing a reliable model stacks the odds in your favor.

Choose one with electronic stability control (ESC). You should buy a model new enough to have ESC, a system that has proven to save as many lives as seat belts. Curtain airbags, which provide head protection in side crashes, is also a key safety feature.

Buy as new as you can afford. It may be a stretch, but that newer car likely has more safety features and fewer miles on it, improving the chances it hasn’t been abused.

Buy from a reputable seller. New car dealerships are usually the best place to find a good selection of gently used vehicles, but you can also find them at established used car lots as well as from private sellers.

• Look at past history. If possible, ask to see the previous title and contact the former owner. There’s no better way to find out the real history of a used car than from the person who owned it.

The cars and SUVs below are those we recommend to friends and family. They performed well in our tests and have consistently had above-average reliability for the model years shown, based on our latest Annual Auto Survey. Each also came standard with ESC, unless otherwise noted.

—Eric Evarts

Mazda3 (2008)

The excellent Mazda3 is one of our favorite small cars to drive. It has precise, responsive handling and a firm, comfortable ride. Interior quality is very good, and some upscale features are available, though the cabin is noisy and the rear seat somewhat tight. For 2012, Mazda added a new 2.0-liter Skyactiv engine and six-speed automatic transmission that boosted fuel economy to an impressive 32 mpg. We’d skip the sportier Mazdaspeed3 version, which has a harsh ride and too much torque steer.

Pontiac Vibe (2005-08)

A twin to the Toyota Matrix, the Vibe is a practical, reliable, and efficient little wagon. Available all-wheel drive and a large, flat load floor in back make it a good substitute for a small SUV. Its 1.8-liter engine is stingier with fuel than most SUVs, though it can be a little slow and whiny. Access and cargo space are generous and the rear seat is roomy. Drivers, however, may find the steering wheel an awkward reach away. Handling is fairly nimble, and the ride is compliant though a little jittery. Stability control became available in 2005, but it may be difficult to find.

Acura TL (2005)

Based on the humble Honda Accord, the TL outclassed plenty of luxury cars that cost a lot more when it was new – and it still does. Taut, agile handling combined with a comfortable, quiet ride and impressive interior quality give the TL a nearly ideal blend of sportiness and luxury. Its smooth V6 makes the TL very quick, yet still returns commendable fuel economy. All that plus very good reliability makes the TL an excellent used-car choice – no matter what your budget.

Acura TSX (2005)

Acura’s entry-level sedan is a great used alternative to a new small car. Based on the petite European version of the Honda Accord, the TSX’s agile handling and smooth revving yet thrifty four-cylinder engine give it sporty flair. Handling is frisky, but the tradeoff is a stiff ride—our major beef with the car. The cabin has impressive fit and finish and is fairly roomy up front, though the backseat is tight. Add in top-notch reliability and the TSX is an easy choice.  

Toyota Avalon (2005)

The Avalon has always been a well-executed large sedan, essentially a stretched Camry with more comfort and luxury features. High points include a silky-smooth powertrain, excellent road isolation, and generous accommodations. The punchy, powerful V6 easily gets this big car moving, and its limo-like rear seat is generous enough for three adults. But at highway speeds the ride tends to feel floaty; look for the more buttoned-down Touring model. All versions have great reliability to boot.

Hyundai Sonata (4-cyl., 2006-08)

2006 was the year the Hyundai Sonata grew up, metamorphosing from cut-rate alternative into a comfortable, capable cruiser. It has very good fit and finish, a roomy backseat, and a thrifty four-cylinder. (An optional V6 has more power, but may not fit under our $10,000 price ceiling.) The ride is smooth, although it can become a little buoyant on the highway. Its handling is more on the capable side than nimble. Think of it as a tight end rather than a running back. Reliability has been very good.

Kia Optima (4-cyl., 2007-08)

This generation of the four-cylinder Optima was one of the best midsized sedans, outscoring comparable Toyota Camrys and Honda Accords. It rides very comfortably, provides a roomy back seat, and has an efficient four-cylinder that performs smartly. Essentially a rebadged Hyundai Sonata, the Optima handles securely than the Hyundai and uses quality materials inside. Yet it costs a fraction of the price of the more popular Camry and Accord. Look for an EX-trim Optima, which was more widely available with antilock brakes and ESC

Honda CR-V (2005)

Like a tiny minivan, the CR-V has plenty of space and enough height inside to almost walk around. Its low cargo floor makes it easy to load your gear. Even better, the CR-V is one of the best-driving small SUVs of its day, with a four-cylinder engine that’s smoother and more powerful some contemporary V6s, a compliant ride, and almost spry handling. First-rate reliability is a major plus. Our main complaint is road noise.

Mitsubishi Outlander (2007)

With either an economical four-cylinder or a punchy V6, the Outlander is an affordable, no-compromises alternative to more popular small SUVs. Its quick, well-weighted steering and agile handling set it apart from most competitors. The tradeoff is a fairly stiff ride, though it’s better on four-cylinder Outlanders, which have smaller tires. The rear bench can seat three across with plenty of head- and legroom, and there’s even a tiny third-row seat for kids. Reliability is impressive.

Honda Pilot (2005)

The Pilot manages to combine the best of a wagon, SUV, and minivan. A bit roomier and less costly than its upscale sibling, the Acura MDX, it’s among the better SUV choices for this class. The Pilot delivers spirited performance yet respectable fuel economy; a comfortable ride; secure, responsive handling; and seating for eight. Pronounced road noise was our only qualm. The standard split third-row seat folds neatly into the floor. Access is easy, fit and finish is impeccable, and reliability is sound. Look for a model with the available rear-view camera.

More from Consumer Reports: Hits and misses from Consumer Reports’ testing Best & worst car values Best new cars for under $25,000

Buying a used car is fraught with risk. Unlike a new car that is factory fresh and backed by an extensive warranty, used cars have typically been driven for thousands of miles over several years. Their usage and service histories can be a mystery, and there is always the concern that the car was traded in due to an emerging problem. But, by following a few key steps, you can survive the harrowing used-car buying adventures, while getting a great deal.

—Eric Evarts

Use online tools, such as those available at ConsumerReports.org, to determine the cars that meet your basic needs and budget. Then whittle the list down by studying their overall road test scores when new, crash test and dynamic safety performance, and reliability. Done right, this will establish a workable list of truly promising models. You will need to take some test drives to see how the cars measure up for your personal comfort and needs, then it is time to shop for the individual model to purchase.

Who’s selling a used car can make as much of a difference to its quality as the make and model.

New-car dealers tend to sell late-model used cars (two- or three-years old) that often carry the remainder of the original factory warranty. Generally, dealer cars are higher quality due to age and their ability to readily make repairs.

Auto superstores have huge lots and scores of cars to sell. CarMax, auto malls, and rental-car sales lots sell numerous brands under the same roof and have their own large-scale reconditioning operations. They also put age, condition, and mileage limits on the cars they’ll sell.

Independent used-car dealerships are apt to handle any car make, and the vehicles can run the gamut from almost-new to junker-in-waiting. Favor the dealerships that have been around for a long time and have a good reputation locally.

Independent mechanics and body shops often have a sideline business selling a few used cars. They may not have a large selection, but it costs them little to fix cars up. That means their prices can be better than those you’ll find at a dealership.

Private owners may sell their cars for less, but there are limits. Businesses that sell cars required to offer some kind of warranty by law and have the expertise to spot problems. Private sellers can’t provide the same security. All the private transactions are assumed to be ‘as-is.’

Before you go check out a car, ask the seller some direct questions by phone or email to make sure it’s worth your time:

“What’s the car’s condition?”

“How about the body and interior?”

“How many miles has it been driven? And in what conditions?”

“How is it equipped? Any aftermarket upgrades?”

“Had any body work done?”

“Do you have service records?”

“Does the car have any open recall?”

Specific questions for private sellers:

“Have you owned it since it was new?”

“Why are you selling the car?”

Learn more about asking the right questions.

Once you locate a car you’re interested in, make sure you know what it’s worth. The seller will want to know you’re serious about buying and may ask questions to gauge whether you have money to spend. And if you like the car after driving it, you may want to make an offer.

For any used car there are two prices: retail and wholesale.Retail is what you should expect to pay for the car at a dealership. You may also find trade-in, or wholesale values listed for cars, but you shouldn’t expect to be able to buy one at that price. The price you pay will likely be somewhere in the middle.

You can find retail and wholesale prices for most models at Websites such as consumerreports.org, Kelley Blue Book, andtheNational Automobile Dealers Association. Then gauge the local market by checking current ads on Autobytel, UsedCars.com, AutoTrader.com, or eBay Motors. Remember though, an asking price is not a transaction price. Using several sources will put you in a stronger negotiating position with sellers.

No matter how much you spend, driving home in a car with hidden problems is every used-car buyer’s worst nightmare. According to Carfax, a service that provides vehicle history reports, about 20 percent of cars on the road have had some sort of accident history. There’s no substitute for hiring your own mechanic to inspect any car you’re serious about buying. But there are a few things you can check yourself to see which cars may be worth taking to a mechanic:

Inspect each body panel for scratches, dents, or rust. Masking-tape marks under windowsills or fender edges indicate paintwork.

Look for uneven panel gaps around the fenders, doors, hood, and trunk can indicate shoddy repair.

Be sure the paint color and finish are uniform, and check inside doorjambs for dull-looking overspray.

Check for moisture fogging in the lights, or for a water line in the engine compartment, which could indicate previous flood damage.

Make sure the tires have even tread wear. New tires may hide problems.

Inspect the door hinges and the bolts that hold them; rust on these parts may be a clue that the car has been submerged.

Do the sniff test. A musty, moldy smell in the interior or trunk could indicate water damage.

Check the tailpipe for black, greasy residue, which could indicate that the engine is burning oil.

Learn more about avoiding used-car disasters.

If you want to get the best price, don’t fall in love with a car. There will always be another. And never negotiate under pressure, especially when a salesperson tells you that a deal is only good today. If you’re working with a dealership, negotiate one thing at a time; don’t let the dealer lump your trade-in, purchase, and financing into one monthly number. Once you have a good idea of how much you’re willing to pay, begin by making an offer that is realistic but 15 to 25 percent lower than this target number. Name your offer and wait until the person you’re negotiating with responds. If you have to raise your offer, do it in small increments. State clearly when you have reached your last offer, and stick to it. Don’t be afraid to say your offer is fair, final, and good for 24 hours only. If the seller won’t budge, be prepared to walk away rather than pay more than you know is a fair price. Learn more about used car negotiation.

More from Consumer Reports: Hits and misses from Consumer Reports’ testing Best & worst car values Best new cars for under $25,000