A new generation is exploring how the cityâs celebrated food owes as much to West African and Caribbean cuisines as to French cooking.
These restaurants are partaking in âa new and expanded tellingâ of the history of New Orleans cuisine, said Jessica B. Harris, whose books have been instrumental in tracing the foodâs African roots. (Mr. Mbaye will appear in the next season of âHigh on the Hog,â the Netflix series based on Dr. Harrisâs book of the same name.)
âThis is a widening of the lens,â Dr. Harris said.
Filling the local void of African restaurants is why Prince Loboâs family opened Addis NOLA in 2019. Last year, the Ethiopian restaurant moved to a new location in the Seventh Ward, along a stretch of Black-owned businesses that Mr. Lobo calls âa new Black Wall Street.â (Robert Manos, in the group picture at top, is a manager at the restaurant, in charge of customer experience.)
âAll of the history that was left out over the last hundreds of years, weâre having to fill that in now with our storytelling,â said Mr. Lobo, 25.
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