#saufleys

By Rees Hughes

This review of the year has become a trailsidereader.com tradition.  However, instead of our usual Top Ten, we are going with just five because of #1.

1) Well . . . the Covid-19 has to take top billing. The PCTA took the lead in the efforts to discourage thru-hiking the PCT in 2020.  Rural communities, with minimal capacity for health services, adjacent to the trail certainly did not want thousands of hikers passing through.  And emergency services, potentially preoccupied with Covid-19, did not want the unnecessary broken leg or mountain rescue to deal with. As a result, many a trip was delayed, deferred, or cancelled in 2020.  The PCTA took additional actions to suppress social media (e.g., de-activating Facebook pages for the Class of 2020).  Although there were those who did not heed the warnings, activity on the PCT was definitely diminished.

The nasty virus that changed 2020

2) Fires.  So we thought that the fires of 2018 re-set the fire season bar to an amazingly high level until 2020 exploded in mid-summer and raged through the autumn.  Fires were more intense, more massive, more destructive, and more widespread.  In California, nearly 4.2 million acres burned, more than double the previous record of 1.67 million acres in 2018. Five out six of California’s largest fires on record occurred in 2020, including the largest in state history – the 1.03-milllion acre August Complex fire.

California’s August Complex fire on September 8

The PCT was impacted in a number of areas by closures, intense smoke, and fire damage . . . from the Transverse Range in Southern California to the Bucks Lake/Quincy area to the Central Oregon Cascades.  It is worth noting that fire in 2020 was a global phenomenon with record fire seasons in Australia, Brazil, and even the Arctic.

At the root of the extreme fire season on the West Coast was climate change.  Unless the record high temperatures accompanied by drought conditions change -- and there is no reason to think that they will -- the experience of 2020 is likely to become the new normal for the PCT.

3) Photos to Inspire You to Walk the PCT.  We ran a series through much of March and April that featured several dozen hiker responses to this prompt.  Here are a couple of images contributed by Mala Cuffo.  If you missed them, it is worth going back to those early months of spring.

4) Farewell to Angels. Eric Smith wrote a thank you to some of the long-time trail angels whose kindness and generosity has helped define trail culture.  The Saufleys (Hiker Heaven), Barney and Sandy Mann (Scout and Frodo), the Andersons at Casa de Luna, and Carmen in Julian (Carmen’s Restaurant) all have either closed or have announced their intent to close ‘angeling’ operations.  You can read Eric’s post here:

https://pcttrailsidereader.com/post/190683149223/farewell-to-angels

Terry Anderson at Casa de Luna

As numbers have grown along the PCT starting earlier and earlier in the season (lasting longer), the commitment can become overwhelming. I am one of the many who benefited from the gracious, open arms of each of these angels.

5) Getting Out.  Although not PCT-specific, the pandemic reinforced the importance of getting outside, spending time in nature, and celebrating trails, parks, forests, and wilderness.  As we learned more about how the coronavirus spreads, it became clear that some of the safest places we could be were outdoors where the wind dissipates any concentration of the virus.  I know that for me and many in our community that there was a reawakening regarding the importance of resources like public beaches and parks, trails for walking and cycling and equestrians, etc.  Indicative of this reawakening, our local community passed a ‘parks and open space’ tax in November with 80% approval . . .

Epilogue

It is unclear what 2021 will bring.  The roll out of the vaccine gives me hope that there will be a return to a more normal PCT experience.  However, it seems unlikely that distribution will be sufficiently widespread by March and April to permit thru-hikers to make their normal early start.  This, combined with California’s escalating drought conditions, would suggest that by late July fires will be impacting trail users.  I’m thinking that it will be a great year for some section-hiking . . . there are so many reasons to get out there (see Joris Bouchard’s image below from the ‘Photos that Inspire You to Walk the PCT’ series).

This list of the Top Ten topics and posts of 2019 is arranged in no particular order.  I have divided them into two posts of five each.  The next installment will be revealed two days from now.

Compiled by Rees Hughes

10. Late finishes are almost always interesting. This photo was taken by Peter Miles Bergman north of Snoqualmie Pass on October 1st.  The remaining 250 miles was a battle against the elements.  His takeaway was, “Don’t hike across Washington in the Fall kids - just don’t do it…“

This photo does indeed say a thousand words.

9.Changing demographics on the PCT.  Not only are the numbers of hikers increasing exponentially, but who is hiking the PCT is also evolving.  An August 29th post covers the change in some detail:

https://pcttrailsidereader.com/post/187285130254/the-changing-demographics-of-the-pct

From my own experience, just being on the trail over the past 38 years has been evidence enough with nothing  more apparent that the number of women on the trail.

8. The conclusion of two long quests to complete the PCT.  New York Times columnist and Oregon native Nicholas Kristof and his daughter, Caroline, completed the PCT this year.  We adapted an article for an August 28th post that summarizes their experience in a delightful interchange between the father and daughter.

https://pcttrailsidereader.com/post/187331488612/growing-up-on-the-pct

And, August also saw my friend, hiking partner, and co-editor, Howard Shapiro, finish his 38-year long trip on the PCT.  He and I authored a ‘Best of . . .” series drawn from nearly four decades of time on the PCT that posted between November 9 - 26.

7. How are apps like Guthook altering the PCT experience and is it good or bad?  We posted an excerpt from Taylor Gee’s article from The Guardian in July that generated a fire storm of conversation.  Has Guthook taken too much of the challenge and mystery out of the PCT experience?  We shared some of the dialogue between hikers for several days after the initial article posted.

https://pcttrailsidereader.com/post/186425321756/how-an-app-made-hiking-easier-perhaps-too-easy

6. New Rules attempt to Manage Numbers on the PCT.  I remember being shocked years ago when I returned to Yellowstone only to encounter a cloverleaf that had been constructed in the highway leading to Old Faithful. It was the Park Service solution to the high volume of traffic that was clogging this roadways near this popular attraction.  The increasing popularity of the PCT and the preference to NOBO has resulted in a variety of interventions designed to spread out or limit the number of hikers.  Over the past several years, the PCTA has worked to create a voluntary permit system much like that used along the JMT.  Oregon is entering the fray in 2020 with a new set of rules (see the October 1st and October 29th posts).  Expect more changes to come in the future.

Devoted trail angels that handled unbelievable volumes of hikers are also making changes or closing.  The Saufleys are making major changes (see the December 30th post), Terrie and Joe Anderson are closing Casa de Luna after 21 years, and it has been reported that this will be Scout and Frodo’s final year of hosting hikers and shuttling them to the Southern Terminus from San Diego.

Terrie and Joe Anderson are keeping Casa de Luna alive through another hiking season.  Just a day or two north of the Saufley’s, their amazing set-up allows for scores of campers to set up among the chaparral in their backyard, enjoy some shade, and absorb some of the Andersons zany, fun-loving energy.  Terrie told me a couple of years ago that “it is a full-time job for several months each year”.  I salute them for their continued generosity.

You can see from their non-traditional registry (photo above) that 2017 promises to be a banner year as they host hundreds of hikers.  They estimated that it was 1200 in 2015.

These photos were taken by Harriet, Phoebe, and Meg, three Aussie ladies who form the PCT Girl Gang, and are trying to slow down their march north to allow more time for the snow to melt in the High Sierra. Their journey can be followed at https://mentalsnakes.wordpress.com/

PCT – Southern California, Thru Hike Throwback

4/28 was the first day of CD’s hike. On 5/8, he decided that his hike would be continuous and at least 2,653 miles. He took a blue blaze route up San Jacinto Peak. The descent was 5000 ft over 16 miles. He grew tired of hiking in the dark and slept in the middle of the trail before returning to the valley floor.

On 5/9, he arrived at the Pink Hotel. Apparently it was a water-less off grid…

Donna Saufley recently announced big changes at Hiker Heaven, for more than 20 years a wonderful refuge in Agua Dulce, about 450 miles north of the Mexican border. The Saufleys are planning to have the operation sustain itself under an AirBnB-type model.

So what does that mean for this year’s PCT hikers? It means that Hiker Heaven is becoming a business, not a free hostel. They anticipate renting out the guesthouse initially sometime early next spring (late March or early April) on whatever platform they ultimately choose (AirBnB, VRBO, etc.). Donna continued on her Facebook page, If that works out – meaning hikers don’t abuse it and it makes fiscal sense — we will consider expanding the offering to include the main house at some point, and perhaps ultimately the entire property and horse facilities. But first things first, one step at a time. There is much work to be done to pimp-out the guest house to make it a special offering worthy of good ratings. We want to be ready to please our guests on a whole new level!

It is sad that we cannot continue in the free hostel model as we have since 1997. Things change, and people move on and do other things. We do hope however that Hiker Heaven will continue to be a place offering hospitality geared toward hiker’s needs. This is mixed news and admittedly our choice is self-serving, which feels strange after so many years of service to others. The end of one era is the start of the new.

While specifics are still gelling, here are some basics:  the guesthouse can sleep 8, and they will hold boxes for those who have reservations, and provide laundry service (Donna will still do the laundry for those requiring). Animals will still be welcome. Jeff and Donna will reside on site for a period TBD, after which they will hire a caretaker, which will be a paying position which will include accommodations, wi-fi, and utilities.

It is hard to begrudge the Saufleys this change.  They have been a touchstone for a generation of hikers.  I have stayed three times over the years and marveled at their hospitality, the generosity, and the goodwill.  There is no reason that it can’t continue but actually pay for itself.  The opportunities for camping for several miles south and north of Agua Dulce are very, very limited, so it would be my hope that Hiker Heaven will continue to be a popular option for hikers even though there is a charge.

What do “Austiin Powers: International Man of Mystery” (1997), “Blazing Saddles” (1974), “Hail, Ceasar!” (2016), “Holes” (2003), “Little Miss Sunshine” (2006), “Planet of the Apes” (2001), and more than 40 other movies have in common?  These films were all partially filmed in the Vasquez Rocks, just south of Agua Dulce.  In addition, over 100 television episodes, many music videos, and countless commercials have used these distinctive rock formations as a backdrop.

When Randy Godfrey and Kathy ‘Rock Steady’ Dittrich were passing through Vasquez Rocks, the movie industry was filming some manner of car chase scene here as they approached, sending a lot of dust into the air as they filmed the sequence a number of times. Randy reported that, “Kathy and I felt sort of invisible as we walked by, our two realities passing like ships in the night.”

The PCT winds through Vasquez Rocks shortly (for those headed north) after passing underneath Highway 14. The 932-acre park includes a Visitor’s Center that is well worth a stop. In 1873 and 1874, Tiburcio Vásquez, for whom the rocks are named and one of California’s most notorious bandits, used these rocks to elude capture by law enforcement.

After the long walk through Agua Dulce, and after a stop at the Saufleys if possible, you return to the mountains.  For many hikers the next stop is Green Valley and Casa de Luna (the Andersons).  The image below is taken on the way down toward Green Valley, some of the best trail tread along the length of the PCT.