lviv fashion week: under queen
(images via lfw)
as you're probably aware by now if this is beyond your first partaking with me in lviv fashion week, the event sometimes attracts something of a scattering of designers, so i'm always happy to see one return--particularly if it was one that impressed me in the past, as did designer roksolana baran (Роксолана Баран) and her lovely house of under queen with their s/s 2012 range last season. thus, for the a/w 2012 season, ms. baran's use of colour and touches of bohemian-isms were still quite high, though things were somewhat thicker and modified for the coming cold, of course.
this time around, as we might thank our old friend, the website lviv beauty for informing us, under queen's collection was called 'golden idols' and is (trans.) "based on the culture of the psychedelic 60's and 70's, which is characterized by the progressive development of rock music and a wide distribution of psychoactive drugs. The collection combines luxury items on the background of indifferent street style." in other words, what the kids (and pretend-kids) are still wearing these days when they hit up the music festivals.
as for the collection's colour palette, as the russian site ria moda reflected, we saw quite (trans.) "a complex combination of deep contrasting colors, blue and mustard, emerald, and terra cotta, red and black, gray and white as a neutral colour." and, continued on the ukrainian website clutch, range materials included chiffon, satin, fur, suede, velour, imitation leather, silk, rayon, and velvet and trimmed with (trans.) "metal fittings, beads and Swarovski stones," while additional embellishments like embroidery, pleating, and fringing helped to further fancify the looks.
as for the cuts themselves, lviv beauty did note there was a marked emphasis on the natural waistline, but i'd also like to point out that thanks to seaming, piping, and other details, there was a good amount of attention drawn to the bust, which was usually further carved-out and often the (frequently maxi-cut) dresses had dipping necklines to give some additional shape. it was particularly clever, given that with all the layers and rather flowing cast to the pieces, the designer was trying to help give her girls some figure underneath it all. she's clever, and as ever, i'll certainly be hoping to see more from under queen in the coming seasons.
