10.2.12
Its been a long minute since the last time I got my Sandys on. Yesterday, my friend and THE MOST AMAZING OCEAN PHOTOGRAPHER IN THE WORLD Ryan Beppu gave me the heads up he thought it might be worth shooting. I woke up at 6am and made my way down knowing that I had to be in the office by no later than 9:30. It was kinda cold and overcast but once I jumped in, I felt at home. Rex Moribe also made it out and although I had to leave shortly after he arrived, I know he got some nugggggs. Hes fricken crazy! Nothing mag worthy but this is one of the nicer barrels. Can't wait for winter where my goal is to get an epic session at Ke'iki ;)
By the way.....I am obsessed with my Triad Lotus board. It handles so nicely. Easy to bottom turn with enough flexibility for shorebreak and enough firmness for a crisp ride. I would go to bed with it in my arms but I don't think husband would like that too much.
