#refoscodifaedis

(this is a special one for me, it’s about my hometown!)

The Colli Orientali del Friuli is a Denominazione di origine controllata (D.O.C.) located in the Italian region of Friuli Venezia Giulia, in the north-eastern corner of the country, bordering with Austria and Slovenia to the north and east, respectively.

The D.O.C. is located in the province of Udine and is sub-divided into three main sections: Ramandolo/ Faeds in the north, Cividale/ Prepotto in the middle and Corno di Rosazzo in the South. 

The climate and soil is very similar to the neighboring D.O.C. of Collio Goriziano and the two regions share many winemaking similarities as well. The appellation also includes within its boundaries the three Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (D.O.C.G.) of the Friuli-Venezia Giulia: Ramandolo and the special wine of Colli Orientali del Friuli Picolit and the newly introduced Rosazzo D.O.C.G.

The most significant mountains in this area are the Julian Alps, hence the Giulia appendix in the region's name. To the south lies the Gulf of Trieste and the northern tip of the Adriatic Sea. The northern part of the region is mountainous and gradually gives way to flatter terrain and plains, southward toward the sea. 

From time immemorial, Friuli Venezia Giulia has been a region of transit, connecting the lands beyond the Alps and the ports on the Adriatic: its unique geographical position proved to be a meeting point where different worlds and traditions, from ancient Judaism to the Roman culture, from the Eastern, Germanic and Slavic components to Byzantine and Venetian influences, clashed, overlapped and came to coexist side by side, the evidence of which is still visible in many places of historical interest all around the Region.

(Cividale del Friuli)

(details of the decor in the Tempietto Longobardo)

The most relevant site within Colli Orientali is Cividale del Friuli (the Roman Forum Iulii from which the name Friuli comes from): founded by Julio Cesar himself, it was established as a prominent center of the Roman empire and, later, of Christianity. In 568 a.d. it was conquered by the Lombards to become the capital of their first dukedom in Italy, and for this reason it is now featured on the UNESCO HERITAGE SITES list. 

However, the whole territory is plunged in history and was of a particular strategic importance during and after the First World War when the region was a main theatre of operations and suffered serious damage and loss of lives. Conflicts regarding borders sprung back after the Second World War and the autonomous Region of Friuli Venezia Giulia took the current shape only in 1975 when the Treaty of Osimo was finally rectified: the reasons for this "constitutional delay" derive from the region’s "diversity" – the different historical, ethnic, and linguistic components that go to make up this area.

In terms of Terroir: 

The Colli Orientali - meaning Eastern Hills - form a perfect arch with altitudes ranging between 100 mt to 400 mt a.s.l., whose profiles has been shaped over the centuries by generations of vine growers. To remark the relationship between viticulture and this gentle landscape, the names of Friuli vineyards and wine estates often include the word ronco (plural ronchi), which is the Friulian word for "terraced hillside”. In clear days, from Rocca Bernarda, one of the best observation points, the visitors’ gaze runs along terraces covered with vines and then sweeps in the distance from the mountain peaks to the sparkling horizon of sea: in ancient times (35 to 55 million years ago) the Friuli lowland was all covered by the sea, and the coastline almost reached the present-day Julian Alps. At the bottom of this ancient lagoon, over the millennia, a slow sedimentation process gave rise to substantial formations, which, when the sea withdrew, emerged from the waters.Today, this complex, stratified, mineral-rich soil is known as 'Ponca' in the Friulano dialect, but in more official, geological circles it is refereed to as flysch, a rock type formed by repeated sedimentary cycles, resulting here in alternating layers of marl (calcareous clay) and sandstone.  

(a closer look at Ponca)

Backed by the Julian Alps with the Adriatic sea in front, these hills arean ideal context for vine growing: vines are sheltered from the cold northern currents and enjoy constant and benign breezes. The microclimate is distinguished by warm days and chilly nights that allows the vines to bask in bright sunshine without overheating, allowing the grapes to develop full phenolic complexity and aromatic depth before their sugar levels peak. In summertime, the average temperature is around 23°C, with rainfall averaging 1,530 mm. Harvest normally takes place in September. Higher planting densities, older vines, lower yields and the favorable climate contribute to a greater flavor concentration and higher-quality wines. 

Winemaking: 

The winemaking history of the Friuli-Venezia Giulia has been strongly influenced by its history and geo-politics: during the Middle Ages, travelers stopping in this area, on the trade routes from Byzantium to Venice, brought grapevines from Macedonia and Anatolia; under the Habsburg reign, the French grape varieties were introduced and are still widely cultivated, while the German influence encouraged the production of crispy, aromatic white-wines that are often associated with this wine region. Prior to the phylloxera epidemic over 350 grape varieties were grown in the region, now the count is down to over 30, and while white wine dominates Friuli wine production, nearly 40% of the production is red with Merlot being the leading red wine grape. Sparkling wines, generally made in the Charmat method, have started to emerge alongside the still wines, and the region is responsible for a large quantity of Prosecco DOC wine every year.

Proud of this diversity, the wine production of Colli Orientali results in a mosaic of indigenous varieties, as well as international grapes such as Sauvignon, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet and Merlot.

(a friulano grape)

Leading the pack are four white varieties, very much traditional and local: 

- Friulano: the most important and popular variety producing crisp, floral wines that develop notes of nuts and fennel as it ages. It's the perfect wine to be enjoyed by the glass, so versatile it also pairs with many foods, traditionally with the classic foods of the area like prosciutto di San Daniele and Frico. Formerly known as Tocai, now it is simply called Friulano, due to the European Union decision, back in 2006, to ban names that have some similarity or association with the Hungarian wine Tokaji. 

- Ribolla Gialla: appreciated for it pronounced acidity, this grape was primarily used as a blending component until winemakers started to apply techniques such as malolactic fermentation, to produce softer, more buttery wines that still retain the crisp, lemon edge of the grape. 

- Verduzzo: Wines made from Verduzzo have peach and nutty flavors in their youth but develop more honeyed flavors as the wine ages. The high acidity of the grape works well in sweet production and, like in Ramandolo sub-appellation, it is often dried to make a passito wine. 

- Picolit: The name comes from piccolo, or small, due to the fact that this grape has very low yields. The vineyards are notoriously infertile due to grape diseases and mutations which cause the vine to lose its flowers and grape clusters. In most years, less than half of a vineyard Picolit crop will survive and be able to make wine: the honey-ed dessert wine that it can produce is often in high demand because of its restricted supply, continuously challenging the growers to make it an economically viable investment. The grapes are characterized by a nice balance of sugar and acidity. Both passito and late harvest styles are produced. Grapes for the passito wines are harvested in mid-October, then dried on straw mats before pressing. Late harvest grapes are picked several weeks later, allowing the grapes to raising on the wine. The wine is fermented, then aged in oak barrles. The result is a well-balanced dessert wine with soft floral aromas, and stone fruit flavors.

(Healthy Grapes of Picolit: berries are removed or lost due to grape disease and mutations.)

The red wines include varietal forms of Merlot, Cabernet franc and Cabernet Sauvignon as well as more interesting red wines made from the local grapes: 

- Pignolo: in Italian, the grape's name means "fussy" which does describe the viticultural profile of the grape which often produces low and uneven yields. The first recorded mention of the grape was in Abbot Giobatta Michieli's late 17th century book Bacchus in Friuli in which he described the grape making "excellent black wine". Today the grape is used to make rich, deep colored, full bodied wine that does well with some time in oak. Well made examples of the wine have good balance between the grape's acidity and tannins with flavor notes of plum and blackberry.

- Refosco: A slow ripener, this grape requires sufficient access to warmth and sunlight; it has, though, a good resistance to rot that can develop during autumn rains, frequent in this corner of Italy. It has found its proper terroir especially higher up on the hills, to produce deeply colored wines that tend to be full-bodied with high acidity levels and flavors of plum & almond notes.

- Schioppettino: meaning "gunshot" or "little crack”, its history is in the league of wine legends: nearly lost to extinction following the phylloxera epidemic, it was patiently sought out and replanted by a local vigneron, Ronchi di Cialla, in the 1970s. By this time, the variety was so long-forgotten that it was neither recognized nor permitted for use by Italian wine law. Only in 1978, after years of legal struggle, the variety was re-admitted in the official rules of production. In addition to thriving in the Cialla and Prepotto area, today it is a prominent planting throughout the Colli Orientali del Friuli D.O.C. appellation and it produces very aromatic, medium bodied wines with Rhône-like qualities of deep dark coloring with violet, raspberry and pepper notes.

 - Tazzelenghe: meaning “tongue cutter” in the local dialect, it produces a very tannic and fruity wine that mellows as it ages but maintains a good amount of its fruitiness.

The Appellation in details:

The Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC Wines Consortium was one of the first consortia to be set up in Italy in 1970 and had a fundamental role in supporting the drastic changes at a time when farmers born in the first half of the century handed over to their children. It was an era of pioneers like Mario Schioppetto who introduced modern techniques for making white wines, to quickly getting juice off the grape skins and taking extra measures to prevent oxidation. Ever since, the emphasis here in on the grape's pure fruitiness and acidity. To this extent, the whites still generally resemble the Alsatians and winemakers of the Loire Valley rather than their counterparts in Burgundy, Spain and other parts of Italy where oaking is often used to make whites, as well. Most of the local wines are made in varietal form, with the appellation requiring wines to be made with at least 85% of one grape, but distinguished blends are also made.The solid reputation of a quality, niche production wine region essentially depends on a select group of quality-conscious, small-scale winemakers. Today the Consortium has about 200 members, over ¾ of which are bottlers. Their vineyards (2,300 registered hectares) produce over 80,000 hectolitres of DOC wine, almost 30% of which is exported, mainly to European countries, Austria and Germany especially, but also increasingly to U.S.A. and Japan. 

The Colli Orientali del Friuli D.O.C. can be divided in three relevant sections: - the North: Ramandolo is home of the eponymous, much-respected sweet white wine made from Verduzzo grapes, so special to be also listed as one of the regional D.O.C.G. In the same area, in 5 communes only, there is also such a unique production of Refosco that is granted the specific appellation of Refosco di Faedis. 

- the Middle: almost halfway on the arch, Cialla is considered a CRU on its own, producing wines under the designations Cialla Bianco and Cialla Rosso, as well as sweet and off-dry wines. Nearby, Schioppetino di Prepotto is also a renown sub-appellation. The hills surrounding Cividale del Friuli are also relevant for wine production, especially in the towns of Spessa, Fornalis and Gagliano.

- The south: Corno di Rosazzo is the new site of the Consorzio, a legacy of the excellent producers of Gramogliano, Rocca Bernarda e Rosazzo. The Ribolla Gialla variety is thought to have originated in this area,  in the vineyards of the local Abbey over 1000 years ago, and still thrives there today. This last area is famed for its wines made in the off-dry (Rosazzo Pignolo) and sweet (Rosazzo Picolit) styles.In 2011, the appellation Rosazzo D.O.C.G. was introduced to identify, protect and promote white wines of higher quality and well defined characteristics made with a blend of Friulano, Sauvignon, Pinot Bianoc, Chardonnay and Ribolla Gialla. (look-up for its own disciplinare to get the full picture.) 

The dessert wines from the Picolit grape made in the passito style have also two dedicated D.O.C.G. appellations within the Colli Orientali del Friuli: - Colli Orientali del Friuli Picolit - Cialla D.O.C.G. - Colli Orientali del Friuli Picolit D.O.C.G. that encompasses most of the region.

Rules of Production of Colli Orientali del Friuli D.O.C.

Generally, to be labeled as Colli Orientali D.O.C. mono-varietal wines must be made with at least 85% of the following grapes: 

- white grapes: Chardonnay; Malvasia (da Malvasia istriana); Pinot bianco; Pinot grigio; Ribolla gialla; Riesling (da Riesling renano); Sauvignon; Tocai friulano; Traminer aromatico; Verduzzo friulano; 

- red grapes: Cabernet (da Cabernet franc e/o Cabernet sauvignon e/o Carmenere); Cabernet franc; Cabernet sauvignon; Merlot; Pignolo; Pinot nero; Refosco dal peduncolo rosso; Refosco nostrano; Schioppettino; Tazzelenghe; 

The more generic appellations Colli Orientali D.O.C. Rosso (=red), Bianco (=white), Dolce (=sweet) refers to blends made only using the above mentioned grapes.  Additionally for Dolce, also Picolit can be used for the blend. 

The vines should be planted with a minimum of 3,000 plants per ha, each plant yielding a maximum of 3,7kg per plant. 

Total maximum yield per hectar: 11 tons.

The whites: All white wines produced and bottled as D.O.C. need to respect the organoleptic characteristics listed in the rules of production. 

Minimum vol: 11%

Minimum Acidity: 4,0 gr/l

Minimum Extract: 15 gr/l

The Reds: All red wines produced and bottled as D.O.C. need to respect the organoleptic characteristics listed in the rules of production. 

Minimum vol: 11%

Minimum Acidity: 4,0 gr/l

Minimum Extract: 18 gr/l

The Sweets: 

Minimum vol: 12%

Minimum Acidity: 4,0 gr/l

Minimum Extract: 18 gr/l

“Riserva" can be added to the label for wines that age at least 2 years from the 1st of November of the year of the harvest. The exception: Pignolo wines cannot be released anyway prior to 2 years aging..

The Cialla sub-appellation: 

A specific set of rules applies to the wines made in the delimited area of Cialla, using only the following grapes: Ribolla gialla; Verduzzo friulano; Refosco dal peduncolo rosso; Schioppettino.

- Yield for white grapes: 8,00 tons per ha, resulting in 56hl per ha. Maximum 2,7kg per plant. 

- Yield for red grapes is: 6,00 tons per ha, resulting in 42hl per ha. Maximum 2,00kg per plant

- “Riserva" can be added to the label for wines that age at least 4 years from the 1st of January following  the year of the harvest.

- Ribolla Gialla:

Minimum vol: 11%

Minimum Acidity: 4,0 gr/l

Minimum Extract: 15 gr/l

- Verduzzo Friulano:

Minimum vol: 12%

Minimum Acidity: 4,0 gr/l

Minimum Extract: 16 gr/l

- Cialla Bianco: 

Minimum vol: 12%

Minimum Acidity: 4,0 gr/l

Minimum Extract: 15 gr/l

- Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso/ Schioppetino/ Cialla Rosso:

Minimum vol: 12%

Minimum Acidity: 4,0 gr/l

Minimum Extract: 18 gr/l

- The wines can only be released for sale, as follows:

Ribolla gialla (Ribolla)/ Bianco/ Red: April of the year following the harvestVerduzzo friulano 

(Verduzzo): January, 2years after the harvestRefosco dal peduncolo rosso 

(Refosco)/ Schioppettino: January 3years after the harvest

(ph. courtesy: wakawakawinereviews.com for Ronchi di Cialla)

The Rosazzo sub-appellation: 

A specific set of rules applies to the wines made in the delimited area of Rosazzo.The mono-varietals must be made using at least the 85% of the following grapes only: Ribolla gialla; Pignolo;

The Rosazzo Bianco (=white) and Rosazzo Rosso (=red) can be made blending any of the grapes listed in the general rules of production of Colli Orientali D.O.C. - Yield: 8,00 tons per ha, resulting in 56hl per ha. - minimum implant density: 3.500 plants per ha. Maximum 2,3kg per plant

- Ribolla Gialla/ Rosazzo Bianco:

Minimum vol: 12%

Minimum Acidity: 4,0 gr/l

Minimum Extract: 15 gr/l

- Pignolo/ Rosazzo Rosso:

Minimum vol: 12%

Minimum Acidity: 4,0 gr/l

Minimum Extract: 18 gr/l

(the majesty Abbey in Rosazzo)

The Schioppettino di Prepotto sub-appellation: 

Only applies to wines produced within the municipality of Prepotto by using at least 85% of Schioppetino grapes from old vines, and at least 95% in case of recent implants. 

- Yield: 7,00 tons per ha, resulting in 49hl per ha. 

- minimum implant density: 4.500 plants per ha. Maximum 1,55kg per plant

Minimum vol: 12,5%

Minimum Acidity: 4,5 gr/l

Minimum Extract: 24 gr/l

The wine must be aged at least 12 months in barrels, and can be released for sale only in September, 2 years after the harvest. “Riserva" can be added to the label for wines that age at least till September, 4 years after the harvest.