#ptoman

If you want an overcoat with verve and drama, you gotta go vintage. The 90s provide many--like this thrifted navy blue cashmere-wool example by Donna Karan New York. 

Cashmere-Wool Overcoat: Donna Karan New York, thrifted

Cashmere-Silk Roll Neck Sweater: Neiman Marcus, vintage, thrifted

Jeans: Levis 501, vintage, Made in USA, thrifted

Inspired by @urbancomposition's recent Ralph Lauren in Italy adventure to bring out this thrifted wool-cashmere Belvest version of a navy blue windowpane suit (difficult to put into words what a pleasure this suit feels like when worn, due to the fit and suiting fabric). Also necessitated bringing back out this vintage Armani overcoat. 

Vintage Wool, Cashmere Coat: Giorgio Armani Borgonuovo 21, Made in Italy, R. L. Spear Auctions

Wool-Cashmere Suit: Belvest, Made in Italy, thrifted

OCBD: Brooks Brothers, thrifted

Silk Tie: Banana Republic, thrifted

Another thrifted 1970s suit--featuring wide lapels, flared leg, tab collar button closure, hacking pockets and ticket pocket--but RTW, not bespoke. 

Cashmere Balmacaan: Ermenegildo Zegna, Made in Italy, thrifted 

Vintage Wool Suit: Adolfo, Union Made in USA, thrifted

Vintage Cashmere Roll Neck Sweater: Polo Ralph Lauren, eBay

Suited and Booted in the Top Find of 2025: Bespoke 1973 Wool Suit by Douglas Hayward

Features include wide lapels, roped sleeveheads, a long single vent, and trousers with a flat front, two button side-adjusters, frog mouth pockets and a flared leg. Interestingly, it also has hacking pockets. Was taken aback by the hacking pockets considering this is a "city suit", as in the fabric is a charcoal gray flannel.

Matt Spaiser of Bond Suits writes, about Roger Moore's James Bond suits of the 80s, that "Unlike Roger Moore’s earlier tailor Cyril Castle, Hayward left gimmicks out of his tailoring. Gimmicks could be considered details like gauntlet cuffs, flared link cuffs, flapped breast pockets, hacking pockets on city suits, ticket pockets, flashy linings, contrasting undercollars, contrasting buttons, contrasting stitching or contrasting buttonholes."

Vintage Bespoke Wool Flannel Suit: Douglas Hayward, thrifted

Vintage Silk, Cashmere Turtleneck: Neiman Marcus, thrifted

Blue (trousers) + Blacks (jacket & turtleneck)

"Giorgio Armani Borgonuovo 21 (or Giorgio Armani/A Milano Borgonuovo 21) refers to the designer's premier, high-end luxury collection, also known as the "black label," named after his Milan headquarters at Via Borgonuovo 21, symbolizing his most personal, signature designs in exquisite fabrics, including suits, evening wear, and accessories, representing the pinnacle of his brand's craftsmanship and elegance." 

Vintage Wool, Cashmere Coat: Giorgio Armani Borgonuovo 21, Made in Italy, R. L. Spear Auctions

Vintage Silk, Cashmere Turtleneck: Neiman Marcus, thrifted

Wool Flannel Trousers: J Crew, thrifited

The classic American polo coat worn here in a classic mode (over tweed, cashmere and cavalry twill), but always good for throwing over pretty much anything.

Vintage Polo Coat: Brooks Brothers, eBay

Vintage Tweed Sport Jacket: Atkinson's, thrifted

Vintage Cashmere Roll Neck Sweater: Polo Ralph Lauren, eBay

Cavalry Twill Trousers: Luciano Barbera, thrifted