#propersuit

Cool in blue

I hesitate to say this because my job involves selling suits, but suits are rarely the most ideal clothing choice when it comes to weather in the extremes. If it’s really cold out, you’d probably rather wear heavy-duty gear or thick sweaters to keep you warm. And if it’s hot, wearing a suit isn’t as appealing to most as just cruising around in shorts and a T-shirt. 

But suits do make almost any guy look great, which is often the whole point of wearing tailored clothing -- vanity! So we’ve got a conundrum. 

Unlike fall and winter fabrics where you’re able to get a benefit from seasonal cloth in terms of drape, summer’s less kind. Linen wrinkles. Seersucker is only worn for about three short months. Cotton can sometimes be too thick and dense for the heat, and yet still can look as wrinkled as linen.

What’s left is lightweight wool. You’d think “Fresco” cloth is the only thing worth getting, but there’s a lot of variations out there with an open weave from different mills. Mine in particular is from Ermenegildo Zegna’s “Cool Effects” collection. 

The fabric is 6 ounces and does have a bit of a dry hand to it, but isn’t as “scratchy” as some “fresco”-style fabrics I’ve felt in the past -- probably because the weave isn’t as open as others I’ve felt. To be honest, fabrics with too dry of a hand feel cheap to me, but some really enjoy that texture. 

Zegna claims their “Cool Effects” fabric “absorbs the sun’s rays,” which to raises a bit of skepticism in me as to how beneficial that can be, but after testing the suit in Texas it wears about as cool as suit can get in the heat. 

I think the main benefit comes from the weight and partially the airflow. I opted for half-lining instead of full. But the lightness of the jacket and trousers helped a lot. 

Lightweight fabrics aren’t without downsides. They’re not as crease resistant as heavier midweights might be -- you’ll get some at the back of your trouser knees and jacket from sitting. A quick steam, however, sorts that out quickly. The drape also isn’t as compelling as heavier fabrics would be, but that’s the compromise. 

I did some other things to make this suit a bit more functional for travel. Patch hip pockets instead of my usual choice of jetted. I wanted to split the jacket up to wear as a sport coat with jeans. I also raised the hem and tapered the trousers a bit more at the leg opening as I think it looks a bit better when worn sockless during the warm months. 

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Suit made-to-measure by PROPERSUIT, necktie & pocket square by Vanda Fine Clothing, shirt by Hugh & Crye, loafers by Alden, watch by Swatch.  

Farewell to Flannel

Despite it being technically spring for more than a month, it’s only been recently that it actually feels like the correct season. I’m no fan of cold, miserable weather, but I am a fan of wearing flannel. I’ll almost miss putting these suits away. 

I made good use of these suits through the winter and “spring”. Both are made from a hefty 340g (~12 oz.) woolen flannel from Vitale Barberis Canonico. The hand on the fabric feels substantial and the drape impressive. 

The suits are probably bolder than what many would wear in professions that still require a suit, but I’ve always enjoyed a good pin or chalk stripe (and one of the advantages of my current job -- PROPERSUIT -- is the freedom to wear clothing I find exciting). 

The first suit is a dark charcoal with a rust chalk stripe. I wanted to try a double-breasted jacket and trousers with single, forward pleats. I also opted to do a “tailor’s fly” with buttons rather than a zipper. 

The royal blue flannel has a double chalk stripe in silver grey. I decided to try a three-piece with a 6-button front that brought the waistcoat up higher toward the neck. The jacket is a 3/2 roll with jetted pockets and a jetted ticket pocket as well. The trousers have side adjusters and braces buttons in the waistband. 

The shoulders on both suits are more traditional, having a bit more padding. I wouldn’t personally use this for more casual fabrics, but it made sense on these suits.

At the time I was having these suits made, I was binge-watching “Boardwalk Empire”. The suits on the show are obviously of a very different cut, but what really struck me was the vibrant array of flannel fabrics worn by the likes of Nucky and Chalky. You could tell the cloth had a substantial weight and the molted surface of flannel gave the bright checks and stripes an elegant nuance you just don’t find often in men’s suits. 

I’m not a fan of dressing in costume of an era passed, but I’m always drawn toward fabrics that have a bit of something different about them than the norm. Flannel provides a great opportunity and doesn’t need to always be a shade of dull grey in your wardrobe. 

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Suits made-to-measure by PROPERSUIT, neckties by Vanda Fine Clothing, shirts by Hugh & Crye, pocket squares by Rubinacci & Vanda. 

PROPERSUIT overcoats

PROPERSUIT x Ermenegildo Zegna Traveller Wool-Silk 

Forgot my sport coat, so I orphaned a suit for the day. 

Jacket: PROPERSUIT

Shirt: Hugh & Crye

Belt: Folk via Meyvn

Jeans: 3Sixteen via Self Edge