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VISIT BANGUINGUI: safe destination in Sulu Province

More than the armed conflicts that most people would link to the province of Sulu, there are destinations within their borders that are relatively and proven peaceful, year-round. One, in particular, is the municipality of Banguingui. It is located at the western fringes of the mini archipelago of Sulu, with no land connection, thus, geographically isolated to the main island of Sulu. It is…

THE CUTTING TRIP

It was a jam-packed bus terminal in Mabalacat City, as many passengers are rushing to their respective hometowns to celebrate the New Year. Having the youthful agility (that time), I was able to squeeze myself in the midst of sea of passengers and able to secure a seat at the rear portion of the bus, saving me from another standing commute. Few hours passed, we arrived in Dagupan and took a jeep transfer to Calasiao. In less than an hour, I saw the Calasiao spelling on many establishments, signalling our arrival. We had a quick lunch in a fast food chain before hailing a ride to Vigan. Even buses at this spot are full of passengers already. We are able to board a bus and take seats just beside the driver. It was one of the rare moments to stand behind the huge windshield.

In Calasiao downtown while waiting for a bus ride to Vigan

Me and Ella and the bus driver, bound to Vigan

THE VIGAN SIDETRIP

We intend to spend a night in Vigan before visiting Bangued. Taking advantage of the yuletide season, we strolled around the heavily decorated main streets of the touristy side of Vigan. Stalls brimming with tourists, the streets are breathing alive even at nightfall. Children running around with their apparent christmas garbs and presents and the clippity clops of tourist calesas are the usual busy attractions in Calle Crisologo.

Empty Calle Crisologo at around 4:00 AM

After calling it a night on the quieter side of Vigan, we planned to leave as early as possible to see the Calle Crisologo complete and utter void of tourists. We left at 4:00 AM and hurried to the very spot – we practically owned Calle Crisologo. We left soon as the skies turn from starry black to deep blue and few tourists starting to tread the renowned street.

Selfie with the bus before it leaves for Abra, and Ella seating at the front

Arriving at the then dimly lit Vigan Bus Terminal, the first leaving bus of the day bound to Bangued seats composedly in its slot waiting for the first passenger to board. With lengthy time for waiting, we decided to have our breakfast in the terminal-located eateries and tried on the local dishes they serve – Sinanglaw (warm sour- bitter profiled soup with beef innards) and Dinakdakan (Chopped grilled pork parts with onions and chilli peppers). Soon as our tummies are filled, we decided to board the bus and catch some quick snooze. The mini bus interiors looks like an oversized traditional pinoy jeepney with 3 by 2 seat configuration. As first passengers, we took the front seats.

My breakfast in Vigan with Sinanglaw and hot instant coffee

CROSSING BORDERS

One must not miss passing through the Tangadan Tunnel located in San Quintin municipality. Construction of the tunnel commenced last 1934 as many workers pummeled through sheer hard rock just to connect the new road sections, shifting the new path to Abra to a safer and easier to navigate terrain. The tunnel became the main gateway to access the hidden wonders of the Abra province. Years after its completion, the tunnel marks as one of the destinations in the province. Tourists on private vehicles take the opportunity to have a photograph with the view of the tunnel as their backdrop.

Tangadan Tunnel in San Quintin, able to capture this since of our front seat access

It was more than two hours of driving when we finally on the bustling capital. Before arriving, we enjoyed breathtaking views of the mountainous landscape of Abra through its winding provincial roads. With nothing but thick forests on view, this is the one of the best spots in Abra to enjoy mother nature. Soon as we set foot finally and officially onto the soil of Bangued, I breathed excitedly and started scanning around. Hordes of tricycle drivers offering us ride, mobile vendors yelling out loud their products, porters heaving sacks of produces onto their backs and passengers hurrying to exit the terminal borders. Reaching on the main streets, busy foot traffic on both street edges and establishments brimming with customers was a welcoming sight. More vehicles stuck in traffic jutting out thick grey smoke while motorcycles squeeze their away into tight traffic spaces just to get ahead – really just a typical town, only within the borders of Abra. It was national campaign season, and campaign collateral litter the streets, walls and buildings.

My shoe size did not comfortably fit on the foot space of the bus front sea

In every corner of the Bangued town, you would notice armed authorities in pairs – an army and a police officer, sometimes a trio with a traffic enforcer. This is a normal scenario during a campaign season confirmed by a random local. Using digital maps on our smartphones, we are able to locate the capitol grounds on foot.

AT BANGUED, ON FOOT

At the center of the capitol complex features an open park area with a recognizable half dome covered platform fronting the geometric-hive facade of the green colored Capitol building. Its ground floor roof extension features the typical Ionian column heads topped with a triangular roof.

Ella and the Abra Capitol Building facade

On the other side of the park is the Bangued Cathedral – St. James the Elder Parish. Already on a modern architectural style, the structure features a towering octagonal bell tower with four levels of arched windows. It features also a glittering retablo placed higher on the altar side. The ceiling is embellished with an elegant chandelier and the walls are parted by high arching windows, allowing natural light to enter through it s mosaic design glasses. A mass is celebrated at that time we visited.

We checked our digital maps and located the Calaba Bridge. One of the  longest modular bridge in the Philippines, spanning the wide yet seasonally treacherous Abra River – at 900 meters end to end. We chartered a tricycle to bring us on both of its ends, as walking under the afternoon us proves taxing. After agreeing on the amount we would pay the driver, we sped to the bridge. Soon after, a caged like structure emerged at the end of the road and there we met the signage of the bridge. The driver also instructed us that we can see and visit the riverbed below. True to its definition, the Calaba Bridge is indeed long. Seeing how vehicles turns into miniscule portions as they reach farther end. From there, we can see clearly the Sleeping Beauty. A portion of the mountainous skyline of Abra depicting a sleeping lady, with the face, chest and abdomen above the lower hills of the mountain ranges.

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Sleeping beauty mountain viewed from Oval Era Hotel

Since the sky was dry for days, the Abra River below apparently flows calmly against the clear blue sky. Noticeable are stilted huts above the river surface that visitors can rent should they wish to bathe on the river. There are no authorities that time to ask permission if we can try and check the huts, we just enjoyed seeing them from where we are. We took the chance to take road to the river bed. We marveled on the gigantic and massive support columns of the bridge. From there, we can hear and feel the clunking of steel whenever heavy vehicles would hit the bridge deck. Undettered by the noisy traffic above, scantily dressed children jumped back and forth onto the calm river.

After an exhausting afternoon tour around the main downtown area, we decided to check in with Oval Era Hotel (Contact: +63 917 184 6825) . This hotel is located on Cassamata Hill. We hailed a tricycle since our feet would not be able to carry us to the ascending road inside the park. We have made the right choice. At the wide balcony and open air veranda of the hotel, we can view the Bangued downtown, with the roofs below our feet. We chose an airconditioned twin bed room with private Toilet and bath. It was the best decision we made since we enjoyed much of our room. It also has a room balcony with view of the highers slopes of Cassamata Hill.

Our driver waited for us since he promised to bring us to another view deck within the Victoria Park. We continued the uphill road until we made sharp turn to the entrance of park. We saw an open air semi circular arena and a grotto. We walk around the park and enjoy the better panoramic view of Bangued and the mountain range backdrop.

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Finally, our driver dropped as off on the gates of the hotel and we hurried back to our room to rest. Soon as we are done refreshing ourselves and our back against the supporting mattresses, we decided to end our tour.

My bed while in Abra

At dinner, we visited the neighboring Ayesha Cafe. We are amazed by its interior and garden inspired alfresco dining area with the view of the Bangued town. I ordered then Crispy Beef Ribs with Gravy for my dinner. It took less than 10 minutes before the smoking hot dish landed on my table. The meat is tender and tasty against the crunchy breading. I decided to end my meal with an iced tea beverage.

We called it a night when we returned to our hotel room. The relaxing and calming cold room and soothing mattress instantly drawn to dreamland.

SINCE WE CAME A BIT EARLY

The province of Abra, being part of the Cordillera Administrative Region, proves its tourism potential. At the time of our visit, visitors are rare and locals seemed to be not used on sights of backpackers sauntering their thoroughfares. That time, December 2015, when tourism activities are not yet rampant, we had a hard time in obtaining information from locals. There is a different vibes as to a tourist town like Banaue where locals are more warm to visitors and a smile is like a permanent gesture. I remember when the now famous Kaparkan Falls of Tineg municipality is still reachable by 6-7 hour trek or 3-4 hour horseback ride according to a local we have spoken with. We also lack in coordination with the tourism office and we are only able to see spots on what we just researched in the internet. I am now happy that Abra has taken huge strides in tourism, and social media was an effective marketing tool on bringing to a wider reach the beauty of Abra. I am thankful to my longtime travel buddy and confidant, Ella, for joining me in this tour and herself braving the long commute. As of posting, I could imagine the impact of increasing tourism activities in Bangued. I have learned many destinations now, like the rolling hills, rice terraces and many waterfalls. I tried to plan an itinerary for this a weekend trip would not suffice. I want to see myself what could be the difference from years back. This lingering travel thirst would want my itching feet board that “Abra” or “Bangued” signed buses.

Photo of Mt. Bullagaw in Abra by avid mountaineer and trusted financial advisor, Mr. RJ Garo,

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WAKE UP- KICK ASS- REPEAT 📷 Saab

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Photo of Kaparkan Spring Terraces Falls in Tineg, Abra by Mr. Hancel Reyes ofThe Restless Pinoy Traveler blog

Dreaming still to visit this seasonal Kaparkan Waterfalls

TRAVEL GUIDE to BANGUED, ABRA: 

From Manila, you can take Bangued bound bus (Dominion Lines and Partas Line)

Alternatively, you can take Vigan/Laoag/Pagudpud bound bus and alight in Narvacan Junction. Take jeep, bus, van bound to Bangued

Will I ever go back? I will and that’s for sure. There are many section in the province still void of blog article and I am willing to spend time and effort to return to the province.

THE LONG TRANSIT AND TRANSFERS

It was past 9:00 PM when I arrived in the busy terminal in Dau, heaving my heavy backpack. I sat on an empty cold gang chair seat, deep breathed the cool December air while looking around for bus signage bound to any Cagayan Valley destinations. Our goal is to take a Tuguegarao bound bus. However, the weekend keeps the arriving buses full. We are left to take the last Santiago City-bound bus. We are now on our way to a 10-hour long bus ride, traversing provinces of Tarlac, Nueva Ecija, Nueva Viscaya, and ultimately in Isabela province. Inside the bus, I struggled to find a comfortable position while standing at the center aisle. When we reached the Carranglan area, I have to balance myself to avoid hitting seated passengers as we passed the winding mountain road. It was agonizing, however, I forced myself to drift in dreamland.

I felt the bus slowing down, and I peeled my eyes, someone is alighting, and many of them. We are able to secure seats and now to relax my tired back. Before going back to sleep, I was able to see town centers heavily decorated with Christmas lights.

The bus conductor then shouted “Santiago”. I checked my mobile map application and sure we are now within the borders of Santiago City. We alighted past dawn while the city is starting to wake up. We had a quick breakfast near the terminal before taking our next transit to Tuguegarao City. We are lucky to be able to secure front seats in a public utility van. I am able to catch up on my sleep hours and awakened by the van’s stop. Another passenger lights and as I opened again my eyes, the long cantilevered bridge is in front of us. Excitement filled me since we are already in Tuguegarao City. We alighted on a busy terminal and we hurried to a panciteria. Their local staple, Pancit Batil Patong is my goal for early lunch. After a hearty meal, we hurried to a van terminal and got another front seat PUV reservation. In less than half an hour, the vehicle left for Luna Junction and we are expected to reach the destination in less than 3 hours. This is how the Cagayan province is massive in terms of land area. Most of the national road snakes beside the Cagayan River, an important body of water in the Cagayan Valley region.

Quick exploring the busy town of Abulug

Ultimately, we are able to reach the terminal in Abulug town. With an already sore back, I heaved my backpack and sauntered around this far north town. Since it is my first time, I scanned my eyes to see what they have. Rural banks, busy wet and dry markets, pharmacies, individual ATMs, food stalls – all of this that I needed for an emergency. It was past noon when we are able to charter a tricycle to whisk us to our reserved accommodation – Borromeo Tourist Inn. In less than twenty minutes, we are able to cross the border. At last, the Welcome Signage for Apayao. It was surreal. The long land transit was worth it. At the tricycle, cool and refreshing Northeastern monsoon winds continue to dance around us, while the vast Apayao plains behind us transition to hilly landscape. A few minutes past, we arrived in front of our accommodation. We are ushered to our room on the third floor. The room is already cool and using the AC unit is not needed. I jumped at my bed, resting my tired body.

The Facade and the convenience store

Our room featuring two double beds at the third floor

THE TOUR 

After securing our tour guide and driver, we prepared for the day tour scheduled the next day. We are to explore that afternoon the Marag Valley, however, the road leading to the spot is still inundated due to incessant rains days before our arrival. Supporting his statement is an overcast sky above us until sunset. We just spent the rest of the day recovering from an exhausting journey. We pre-ordered our dinner and breakfast from their in-house cafeteria. Night fell, and momentarily, we called the night early.

Luna Town Signage located at the main provincial road

The alarm rang and we woke up with better weather. The sun has risen up and patches of blue skies are now above us, contrary of yesterday’s. We had our breakfast near the third floor’s balcony, a good view of the vast plains of Apayao. We got dressed and shortly, our driver arrived with his adjusted motorcycle.

THE SURPRISINGLY AWESOME LUSSOK CAVE

Photographs do not give justice to Lussok Cave. Going to the jump-off point is already an adventure. We passed through fields of golden yellow and green, bordered by many streams and tributaries. I usually see brown or dark-colored rivers in Central Luzon, but the ones in Apayao are clear to blue-green to turquoise. The concrete road is still under construction and we have to alight from the motorcycle should we pass newly paved segments.

Our assigned paddler after bringing us at the cave mouth.

We arrived at the entrance – marked by decorated wood panels spelling the name of the province and a  registration area. The Lussok Cave is one of the tourism icons of the Apayao province. The natural park truly is a wonder. The thick forest canopy covering the clean pristine river and the cave’s mouth and including a suspension bridge connecting different trails through the beautiful cave.

It is best to drop a comment for improvement of their services

Going to the mouth’s cave would require a canoe ride, paddling above placid waters of the river surrounded by tall canyon walls. We were the only visitors that morning who will enter the cave. The established cave trails feature easy and moderate level of difficulty. The easy trail would feature scrambling through centuries-old cave rocks, and passing through tight tunnel openings and emerging to different chambers of Lussok Cave. At the time of our spelunking, the trail is filled with slippery brown mud making the cave exploration a bit challenging and risky – one wrong step could lead you sliding to sharp jagged rocks below.

After paying our registration fees, our assigned cave guide gave us a brief discussion about the cave. The name is hailed from a local term that means “to come into”. Since the spelunking adventure involves passing through a tight opening fitting one person only. The park features an established footpath leading to the river where you would board your assigned raft or canoe. It was a peaceful paddling above the tranquil blue-green waters, the river seems to be void of any movements or current. The tall canyon walls seem to shunt the northeasterly monsoon winds above us. Paddling in this area is peaceful. Distant coos and squawks of the natural fauna would just fill your ears. alternated by the sounds of the paddles hitting the water.  The trees above us feature long vines that can reach the water level below or could hit your helmet. The picturesque cave opening then emerged in view. The unique rock formations are magically decorated with the creeping vines and other greeneries attached to its walls.

THE CAVE SPELUNKING

Exploring the cave on foot is my favorite part. We docked on a rocky side and carefully transferred my weight onto solid cave rock. From there, the Lussok Cave is already strikingly awesome and impressive. Our guide instructed us to take the trail upwards to see a better angle of the cave. It was about above two-storeys high and we reached the spot. Seeing the clear river exiting the huge cave mouth and the naturally occurring drippings from the cave ceiling are already ecstatic for me. For leisure tourists, this spot can be their end destination and return back. 

We are about to enter the deeper caverns and daylight starts to dim. Passing through the tight passage is challenging since our pair of footwear were already smeared with slippery mud. I hoisted myself up and emerge to a huge chamber. From there, our guide pointed through beam of light the interesting rock formations. There is one that depicts the Virgin Mary.  He also showed us the difficult trails we can view. Imagine an approximately 40 feet high smooth cave wall with a nothing a but rope and attached tires as your steps. I think I might try this when I return. After an hour of spelunking, daylight now looms in front of us. The ascending slippery trail proves to be daunting, thanks to the jagged rocks nearby. Finally, I was able to surface back on a higher forest ground. We are now above the canyon walls we paddled through earlier.

Another feature of the cave is the suspension bridge. In less than half an hour of trek, we are able to reach the registration counter. I decided to explore more the area and visited the other side of the river banks.

After resting a bit, we mounted to our motorcycle and sped off to visit other spots nearby.

The Lussok Cave is indeed a tourism potential of Apayao province. They have developed the area that different tourists would be able to enjoy and experience its beauty.

OTHER DESTINATIONS IN APAYAO PROVINCE

The Maton River meanders from the highlands of Apayao to the plains -an important water system for agriculture. In Apayao, they have built a spot where tourists can enjoy the scenic view. After less than an hour’s drive from Lussok Cave, we reached one of the banks of Maton River – located near the provincial road. There are huts you can use should you wish to lounge or stay longer. I rushed to the banks and dipped my tired feet on to its cool waters. The area I am stepping on features brown sandy riverbank and interesting rock formations. The current is also strong in this part and safety is paramount. I just enjoyed the view and did not attempt to bathe there.

We drove deeper into Apayao and reached the town of Pudtol. We visited the Mataguisi Chapel Ruins or Pudtol Ruins, a Spanish-inspired structure that features thick stone walls. Within the walled structure is a makeshift church were local parishioners celebrate mass where you will find long wooden benches and an altar. Surely, this history behind this structure is fascinating.

The Apayao Eco-Tourism and Sports Complex Grounds features the public facilities such as swimming pool, playing courts, and the pyramid-shaped pavilion in there.

  It was already mid-afternoon and rain clouds start to form above us. We have to return to Luna town proper since it would be risky to drive on a winding road. We are able to reach Luna town proper before the rain began to fall. We enjoyed our late lunch in a local eatery with another round of Pancit Batil Patong. After the hearty meal, our driver safely brought us back to our accommodation. Our tired feet were still able to bring us to the third floor. We bathed and prepared our backpacks for the long journey back to Pampanga. It is encouraged to explore Apayao at least 3-4 days to make your long travel worth it.

Other destinations we are not able to explore:

Manacota Underground River

Dupag Rock Formation

Apayao version of Pancit Batil Patong

Lunch with our driver-tour guide

TRAVEL GUIDE TO APAYAO

Land: You can drive to Apayao via Luna either Cagayan or Ilocos Norte route. There are buses from Manila to Abulug Junction. Alternatively, you can take any Cagayan Valley bound bus, and you can transit via Tuguegarao. There are also public buses in Laoag and Pagudpug that pass to Abulug Junction. Also, there are vans in Tuguegarao that plies the winding road of Conner to Kabugao. Apayao is also connected to Baguio City via Conner route.

Fly: You can fly direct to Tuguegarao or Laoag. From there you can take buses or vans that pass by Abulug Junction.

CONTACTS

Apayao Provincial Tourism Office:

Ms. Rebecca Mamba

Mobile” +63 927 241 7343

Email: [email protected]

Borromeo Tourist Inn: +63 905 759 3779

Room Rates: (Prices may change without prior notice)

Php600 Single Bed AC Room Twin Sharing Private CR

Php500 Single Bed AC Room Twin Sharing Common CR

Php100 Extra Foam Bed

Transportation:

Edgar: +63 905 896 2922

Elizer: +63 975 954 9296

Reymar: +63 926 834 8923

Our actual commute routes from Pampanga to visualize our transits

Photos of our way back via Ilocos Route: 

    I am thankful to Teacher Mik, who accompanied me in this long journey. The Apayao province is truly farfetched from Pampanga, however, I still dream to take that long ride and explore more of its unexplored destinations.

View of the plains from Borromeo Tourist Inn

The internet age has changed the game for Sulu. Online content creators started to braved their way to Sulu, some following local ordinances, while some doing backdoor style entries (not recommended). With what the traditional media is broadcasting since these digital creatives were able to spread the word of Sulu’s awesome beaches. Fine white sand beaches lined with towering coconut trees against the clear to turquoise to deep blue waters, sans the tourist crowd. Be responsible visitor, never evade local ordinance just to have content, in exchange of your safety.

Arriving from Manila, I am welcomed with the iconic roof of Zamboanga’s airport with the huge Bienvenidos signage. Drawing a deep breath, I excitedly disembarked from the plane and drew a huge smile as I will set foot again on the city that I fell in love with. With almost cloudless blue sky and typical humid air from the sea, this is how Zamboanga welcomed me. I can already sense from there the amount of sunburn I will earn after.

Fast forward to the 8:00 PM ferry bound to Jolo, we started to embark on a calm sea and I easily dozed to dreamland. My eyes peeled to a captain’s announcement to dock. Finally, will be able to set foot on my 78th out of the 81 provinces of the Philippines. Ms. Cath Isbarani of Sulu’s Provincial Tourism Office instructed us to wait in our very cabin. Few minutes passed, she escorted us outside and officially, setting foot Jolo’s port. We chartered a “motorela” that will whisk us around Sulu. We had a meranao-inspired breakfast in Shara’s Cafe located just beside the Jolo  Airport. I would highly recommend trying their local coffee –  I love the smoky-nutty aroma and aftertaste.

View of Jolo Port bound to Hadji Panglima Tahil

The first destination is in the municipality of Hadji Panglima Tahil. We chartered a private boat to cross the channel separating mainland Sulu and this barangay of many islands. It took about less than an hour to reach the island of Marungas of Barangay Bangas. We docked beside a police outpost located above the clear waters of the island. After registering, we made a short trek to the other side of  Marungas Island where Rahmat Dive Resort is located. The lingering scent proves of their rich seaweed cultivation industry. Just before we will traverse a small hill, we passed by seaweed drying facility, others may find the odor repulsive. We reached the top of the hill and we are rewarded with the commanding view of the island. Clear waters envelop the island. There is a zipline facility too. Soon as we reached the resort, we hurried to see around. There are huts you can rent for the day. We spent hours frolicking around.

With Sir Renzelle of Sulu Tourism Office

Our boatman then fetched us on that very beach and transported back to mainland Sulu. We had our lunch in D’Cousins Restaurant. We feasted on their local dishes, and I enjoyed much of the Tiyulah Itum, spicy Tinola version with burnt coconut meat, and Sambal, sliced cucumber with a rich thick sauce made of tomatoes. We left the restaurant with happy tummies.

Anatomy of our Set Order in D’cousins Restaurant in Jolo

We visited next their Sulu Museum and Library. The curator shared to us information about Sulu’s history, culture and heritage. I paid particular attention on their wedding tradition – overall, I would describe it as vibrant and colorful. The museum complex features a two-storey building with different sections showing different aspects of Sulu province.

View from the balcony

Map of Sulu

The Capitol Building of Sulu itself is already a destination. Its Muslim inspired architecture depicts the castle you saw in the Aladdin movie. The capitol building features golden pointed domes. a beautiful intricate facade and inside of it is a huge peacock inspired mosaic wall. We are able to meet also their Provincial Tourism Officer, Mam Jainab.

Beautiful mosaic

You have to get the perfect timing for this shot

With Ms. Jainab of Sulu PTO

Mauboh Beach is a long stretch of public beach in Patikul municipality. It is about less than half an hour of travel from Jolo downtown. It features a long stilted walkway, and low receding beach area where you can see the islands of Haji Panglima Tahil.

The Masjid Tulay Mosque stands loftily, defining Jolo’s skyline with its towering minarets and contrasting white facade against a typical downtown low buildings. It is the biggest mosque in Sulu and one of the most visited in the area. Once you dock in Jolo port, it is easy to identify and locate the mosque from there. There is a prayer happening at the time of our visit and we are not able to enter even after the gates. There is a plaza fronting the mosque where you can marvel its grandeur from there.

View of the tall minarets of the Tulay Masjid seen from our boat ride back to Jolo

Unfortunately, the Jolo Cathedral is closed during our visit. We are only able to see its stunning facade from across the street. It features striking geometric designs with a triangular-shaped facade, akin to a pointy crown.

The cathedral viewed from a busy street across where many pedestrians and small vehicles pass.

One of my objectives in Sulu is to purchase traditional Muslim attire. I was able to buy a pair of gamis in less than Php800. In Luzon, the price could have doubled. Ms. Cath ushered us to the Barter, where you can see many stalls selling Muslim inspired clothing at a lower price. A lot of colorful and glittery dresses for different formal occasions are on display. I purchased mine at Aiza’s Store, Stall No. 67 and 68.

Colorful dresses found in many stalls at the barter attended by a bubbly proprietor

In summary, our itinerary is as follows:

Arrival in Jolo Port

Breakfast in Shara’s Cafe

Visit Hadji Panglima Tahil

Lunch at D’Cousins Restaurant

Sulu Provincial Museum

Capitol Building

I Love Sulu Signage

Jolo Tourism Office

Mauboh Beach

Barter

Back to Jolo Port

If you wish to extend your stay, you can visit the following day

Beaches in Parang

Beaches in Sionogan

Beaches in Panamao

Lake Seit

and more destinations that the Provincial Tourism Office can offer

QUICK TRAVEL GUIDE 

You have to book a flight bound to Zamboanga City

take the night ferry to Jolo by Montenegro Shipping Lines

Do not forget to appropriately inform the Provincial Tourism ahead of time prior your visit. You have to send a Letter of Intent to [email protected], comment below this blog if you wish to have a sample format. Alternatively, you can message their official Facebook Page Sulu Tourism.

Alternatively, if you have the budget, you can take the flight to Jolo via Leading Edge.

Truly, the province of Sulu still has many undiscovered destinations yet and I am excited to be back and experience again its beauty. 

Other destinations in Sulu you can visit:

Sionogan, Sulu, Screenshot Photo by Mr. Dave Tumindig

Tanduh Bunga Beach Resort in Parang, Sulu by Mr. Makoi Matutes

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Relax, Recharge and Reflect. Sometimes it’s OK to do nothing. ** Location: Tandu Beach, Parang, Sulu

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The heart shaped Laked Seit by hardcore mountaineer Mr. RJ Garo.

Avid Mountaineer RJ Garo of Cagayan province

You can try to deep waters of Lake Seit but be careful

  Here is the map indicating locations of the destinations indicated in this article:

Other photographs around during our tour:

MAGSUKUL, SULU

The Island of Romblon is part of the mini archipelagic province of same name, Romblon, in spite of its smaller size compared to its gigantic island neighbors, Tablas and Sibuyan, still has many adventures and experiences to offer to its visitors. Famed for its rich marble supply, the quarry industry has provided livelihood to the locals and littered the main alleyways with marble souvenirs. The small island is also dotted with beautiful resorts at its fringe, offering views of its next door islands. Romblon Island excites me with its off-beat yet serene vibes, would be happy to take the long road to this another paradise island in the Philippines.

with Co-travellers, Francis, Mel and Makoi

Taking the night ferry from Batangas Pier, we nonchalantly perched on one of the cold seats in the passenger-packed departure area while waiting for the boarding announcement. Despite the late hour, the airconditioned chamber is buzzing alive with many TV monitors exhibiting different locals channels, passengers chitchatting, the in-house food stalls apparently awake with their catchy signage and children running around freely. There was a momentary delay, however, shortly, we found ourselves queued to board. passing through a platform, and then, laying our bags down meters away from us for canine sniffing before the actual embarkation.

Queued to board 2GO Vessel bound to Romblon

It is my very first time for a long haul transit via a large ship. We found our personal nooks in an airconditioned public cabin. The first few hours is a nuisance to my ears with the cacophony of passengers around. The ship has an open bar on its stern and we chose to lounge there prior the ship left the port. With few cans of beer, we enjoyed the first few hours of the voyage, and called it a night. We returned to a now more pleasant and quiet yet artic cabin, with the aircondition units at its full blast. The free linens did not help and our “malongs” were our effective protective barrier against the cold indoor draft.

Passengers lining up to disembark at Romblon Port

Enjoying light booze before we call it a night aboard 2Go

My eyes peeled when I heard the captain’s call through the paging system – we are prepared for docking. We hurried on deck, and from there, we can see the Romblon Island, with its main town area squeezed between the mountains chock-full of thick forests and deep blue sea. The atop the hills are decked with apparently equidistant windmills. In my mind, “sure there are tons and tons of marble supply there”. The ship already on its full stop, the platform lowered, and now, passengers started pouring on the dry dock.

At the gates of the sea port, we are welcomed with abundant drivers offering their tourist services. We already had a contact arranged, and we waited for him, while we have our first Romblon breakfast.

Soon as our driver arrived on his tricycle with a back-to-back side car, enough to fit the four of us. Our heavy backpacks are bound safely on the sidecar roof, and shortly we are to circumvent the Romblon Island.

Panoramic Shot of the cathedral on its tight thoroughfares

We passed by the St. Joseph Cathedral. I am amazed with its architectural features. The thick buttress and church, along with the detached bell tower is lined with thick bricks. The second tier of the bell tower features arch windows from adobe bricks with top exterior wall overlaid with modern concrete. The large dome perched high above and is prominent structure around the town area.

Working on a white-dust laden shop

Next destination are the factories where the intricately designed marble souvenir and items are quarried and painstakingly carved. We arrived on dusty workshop littered with fine white dust and plenty of WIPs – statues, trinkets and more.

A female staff fine sanding a dragon figurine

Elephant shaped marble lined up

Different colored heart shaped paper weights

Starfish shaped paper weights

We have met a marble shop owner and sculptor, Sir Wilky Tiologo. We are happy that he had taken his valuable time to show us around his workshop and sample works. I also saw one of his staff, currently wet polishing a dragon designed figurine sculpted from a brown-colored marble. With the fine details they are able to create from an incredibly solid material, I am more than amazed with their craftsmanship – that patience and persistence to create such piece of art. Another feature of the roadside workshop is their own personal treehouse – best spot to rest after a whole day’s toil. A good tip too, it is best to purchase your souvenir here, prices are lower compared from the town center, plus, you are able to help the directly the producers. I bough leaf designed soap dish for a our kitchen sink. We bade goodbye to Sir Wilky afterwards.

The provincial road now winds through deep the mountainous core of the island. Cool wind swept our faces when we passed through a forested area. The sun has already poised itself high and the summer heat already creeping. We passed by more roadside quarry sites and spotted more on view, creating huge bald spots against the mountain slopes, exposing light brown to almost white craggy walls of marble. We stopped at one and took pictures with the barren side.

An open quarry site beside the road

Sacks of low quality marble bits sold at a steal price

We saw another marble processing center and it features a gigantic rock cutter, that has, approximately, 15 feet diameter of solid metal disk that creates inches thick sheets of marble. They are used mostly with table counter tops and other home and garden decors. We halted our drive since we want to witness the actual rock cutting. The machine released earsplitting noise as the disk starts to inch through the rock. Beneath the machine steady stream of milky white fluid, water mixed with fine white dust,  flows through the channels away from the workshop area. It was my first time to experience such process.

Noontime in Sablyan Point with Sibuyan Island at the back

I felt the thirst and we hurried to find a local store in search for bottled soda. We found one on the next community. We continued to drive southwards and, shortly, we saw the sea and the neighboring Sibuyan Island with the treacherous Mt. Guiting Guiting brimming through the horizon. Soon when we reached the Sablayan Point, we hurried to the sea bringing our cameras. We are welcomed with turquoise colored waters splashing through rocky coast on the left side, and crashing on the brown pebbly shore on the right. Beside the shore, there are huts that offers cold Halo Halo. We ordered each and consumed while we enjoy the cooler ambiance.

Moving on the next destination is the Apunan Lighthouse. It is situated at the lower left flank of the island. The lighthouse structure is perched on top of rocky cliff with impressive views of the clear inviting waters below. We entered the lighthouse complex whilst there is a noisy party happening nearby. The sun is already blazing on its full strength and we hurried to find a shade. The administration building seems to be in ruins, however, a family was able to maintain, if not restore its integrity. The middle aged man with identifiable sunburnt skin welcomed us with a smile and required as to register in their logbook. After which, we hurried around within the complex. The sky turned almost completely cloudless and warm humid wind started to blow. From the viewdeck at the edge of the cliff, we are able to easily spot a huge Moral Eel foraging on the rocky portion of the beach. The sea in front of us blazed between shades of deep blue to light turquoise to crystal clear at the shallowest portions. We left the lighthouse complex with now gurgling tummies.

Moray Eel foraging at the shallow portions

The Reggae Vibes would be our next destination to have our late lunch. We arrived on a huge hut structure with its facade adorned with attributable green, yellow and red cloth.

Hippy Facade of Reggae Vibes

Too sad the huts are fully booked

It is a beachfront resort with huts that millenials would love, designed with sleeping quarters at the attic and open designed living quarters below it. Upon stepping on its reception area, we are greeted with smiles and we hurriedly ordered our lunch – bowl meals. We waited outside under the shade of coconut trees, a patio just outside the reception building, perched on a raised platform and facing the sultry sea on full view. It took time to prepare but the rewarding view kept us entertained. We ended our hearty lunch with a huge bottle of almost frozen soda.

The next destination is about half an hour drive and we slog back to the tricycle and we sleepily traversed. We arrived at Tiamban Beach Resort, and excitedly ran to the shores after paying for entrance fees. There are many tourists here since of its proximity to Romblon town proper. We did not stayed long here because we are excited to see the famed Bonbon beach. After arriving finally on our last destination for the day, we excitedly alighted from our ride.

The iconic sandbar of Romblon’s Bonbon beach

Bonbon beach is one of the few public beaches I know, maintained by the government, and easily accessible from Romblon Islands town center – drive between 10-15 minutes approximately. Upon registration, you will be reminded by the resort staff of the regulations which goes around the principle of Clean As You Go.

During low tide, the sandbar extension of Bonbon beach extends reaching the nearby Bang-Og Island. It is best to marvel the sunset here while enjoying the clear waters of the public beach.  We spend most of the remaining daylight here frolicking around.

Spot Map of Romblon Island, and the spots we visited

We spent the night at El Krimphoff Resort (Contact Number +63 998 433 8937), located about 20 minutes away from the town proper. A two-storey villa fronting the rocky shore was our accommodation for the night. The following day, we left Romblon Island on a 3:00 PM Ferry via  Navios Lines bound back to Batangas Pier. Prior boarding, we visited to San Andres Fort, located on a hill offering commanding view the town proper. We bought essentials at the nearest store to the gate of the port. Momentarily, we are at the private cabin we reserved. With heavy heart, we waited for Captain’s call to disembark and take a long travel back to Luzon Mainland.

Rocky beach at El Krimphoff

Wide front lawn and hall at El Krimphoff

Romblon Island can be circumvented and explored within a day, but there are many spots and destinations that could take days just to visit all. Its smaller islands and islets its northern rim are just part of the many adventures you can experience with the province. Should you wish to visit Tablas and Sibuyan Island, there are daily public boats plying these routes, including Carabao Island. Romblon was the 80th province I visited in completing the goal to visit all 81 provinces of the Philippines.

Commanding view of the port and town center in Romblon

View from the San Andres Fort corner pillars

Photos in Navios Lines Sea Vessel bound to Batangas Pier

Private Cabin

Public Open Air

A can of booze to lighten the mood

Young passengers enjoying the fresh air on deck

Selfie with the sunset

View of from the bow

    Looking into visiting Sibuyan and Tablas? Check the blog of Joan’ s Footprints.

View of Mt. Matutum from CEBU PACIFIC window

Last January 2019, Cotabato City exited the Region 12, and now became the capital of the Bangsamoro Regional Government. Administratively, it may have changed, but in the traveling community, Cotabato City will always be a possible part of the itinerary whenever visiting the Region 12.

PORTS OF ENTRY:

  General Santos Airport serves mainly the region, alternatively, Davao City and Cotabato City can be port of entry and exit.

Location of Airports in and near Region 12

Land Travel within the Region 12

The cities and municipalities are linked by public vans and public buses, and grand terminals are strategically located within the town centers. Usually, the public vans last trips are from 5:00PM – 6:00PM, special trips after these hours.

There are tricycles and motorcycles you can charter for intracity trips or transfers.

The Husky Bus Lines and Yellow Bus Lines, commonly, has hourly trips depending on routes.

Being able to visit all of its provinces, here are the list of places I have been:

SOUTH COTABATO

Koronadal City

Lake Sebu

SARANGANI

Kiamba

COTABATO

Matigol Falls, Arakan

Lake Agco, Kidapawan City

SULTAN KUDARAT

Baras Avian Sanctuary

Provincial Capitol Building

GENERAL SANTOS CITY

Fish Port

Sarangani Highlands

Location Map

TO T’NALAK FESTIVAL OF SOUTH COTABATO

Our adventure in Region 12 started with a rainy take off from Manila and landed on a pristine sunny early morning in General Santos International Airport. We chartered a car to whisk us to City of Koronadal. (Travel tip: Whenever you are in the region, City of Koronadal is locally known as Marbel. Better ask directions within the region and use Marbel, instead of Koronadal.) We arrived with quite heavy traffic in its main corridors, as expected, as we are heading to the town center, Alunan Avenue to be particular to witness the T’nalak Festival. Only three remaining contingents are on the streets and we hurried are cameras to take snapshots.

Grand Entrance

flowers and flamboyance

street performance

Outpour of emotions

a male performer

that smile

focus…

The festive spirit is so evident, with the happy crowd busy taking photographs and selfies, free market stalls brimming on the both side of the Alunan Avenue and major commercial area playing the signature sound of the festival as house music. After gobbling our late breakfast, we hurried to the Grandstand to witness the grand performance. I was lucky to obtain a media pass the same day, despite the stress with the crowd, I kept that genuine smile while coordinating with security staff, police officers and bomb squad on duty. Little did I expect, to have found myself with the media team right in front of the stage where the VIPs are. Shortly the contest started. The performances are grouped into three: Christian theme, Ethnic Theme and Muslim Theme. Being under the late morning sun is quite stressful but seeing the performances with live music with the awesome synergy of the dancer’s energy and colourful props. It was a sight to behold! Just before the last group ended their performance, I hurried to the exit to avoid the crowd. It was a tiring a day and we capped the day at a local boutique hotel.

Tranquil Lake Sebu

Another tourism landmark of South Cotabato is Lake Sebu. About more than an hour drive from Marbel proper, you will reach the high altitude town of Lake Sebu. This town house one of the peaceful tribes, the T’boli. We are privileged to have billeted in School of Living Traditions, a school and homestay owned by Maria Todi. Mam Maria Todi is one of the celebrated leaders of the T’boli as she actively teaches their culture, tradition and music to the young ones. At her homestay, we experienced small part of their daily lives, sleeping in common quarters, dining with their native dishes, and trying out their musical instruments. Note that it gets cold at night since of their high altitude setting.

Lake Sebu offers a wide range of experiences – from zip lining above its roaring waterfalls park, marvelling their brassware techniques, paddling on Lake Sebu and Lake Seloton and learning on of their prized handicraft – the T’nalak cloth.

Photo by: Tubong Heneral

With content creators from Luzon, Visayas and Mindanao, photo by: Sandy Pilarca

with blogger idol Potpot of Travel Trilogy site

Where to stay in South Cotabato?

Eighty Eight Hotel

Located at the downtown area, fronting KCC Mall and few minutes walk to restaurants and establishments. Booked my stay via Booking.com

Queen Sized Bed

Lavatory

Spacious Toilet and Bath

Prices is modest versus its amenities. Huge queen size bed, spacious toilet and bath with full hot shower enclosure, large TV and clean. Already stayed here in two occassions will always stay here whenever I’ll be back in Koronadal City.

The Farm at Carpenter Hill

Located along National Highway, it is an expansive property with amenities ranging from restaurant, events and conference halls, hotel rooms and villas.

Spacious Room

Clean Toilet and Bath

What I love is the Japanese Zen inspired gardens and other instillations you will see around the property. The pool area is also a big plus!

Zen inspired garden

Pool Side

Contact details:

Address: Marbel-Makar Road, 9506 Koronadal, South Cotabato

Mobile Number: +63 917 726 0721

Landline: +63 (83) 228 1888

Email: [email protected]

Facebook Page: com/thefarmatcarpenterhill

  Where to chill in South Cotabato?

Refuge Café

Spend your chill hours while in Koronadal City at Refuge Café located at Abad Santos Street. Ms. Charmaine Ladot, the owner, made the menu simple and straightforward – perfecting each recipe they have.

Quality Pesto

Swan!

Carbonara

Quality Cofee

Menu as of writing

Instagrammable couter

Tnalak inspired

Fresh Jasmine Tea

Enjoy its ambiance, tasty pasta dishes, and heartwarming quality coffee and teas right at the heart of the city. Thank you Ms. Charmaine for hosting us during the T’nalak Festival in Koronadal, South Cotabato.

The menu is fairly basic, yet the process of improving each dish precedes before being included in the list. The cafe has two floors and both are instagrammable. Did you know that this very cafe also holds various photoshoots? Thanks to the creative and brillian mind of Ms. Charmaine.

Address: Lao Building, Jose Abad Santos Street, Poblacion, Koronadal City, 9506 South Cotabato

Facebook Page: Facebook.com/RefugeCafe

(NORTH) COTABATO PROVINCE

From Tacurong, it will take almost two-hour drive to Kidapawan City. This city is one of the jump-off points to the summit of Mt. Apo. We planned to see Lake Agco, a nature park located at the foothills of the highest mountain in Philippine Archipelago. Due to its relevant altitude, the climate is cooler and contrary to that, the steaming Lake Agco sets a scenic and dreamy scene from a typical spooky film, a forest drenched in foggy mist. Going to this very resort is already an experience.

Road to Lake Agco

Picturesque Stairs

We travelled on a winding mountain road and enjoyed panoramic views of the lower slopes and hills as we continue the uphill, wished we could stayed longer or stayed for a night.

Belching spot of the resort park

Steamy background

Nice Mossy Area

Ann enjoying the higher steps

Lake Agco is also known for its believed health beneficial mud that tourists slather on their bodies, due to its natural sulphur and other mineral contents. There  are resorts and stores already existing in the park.

View of the Falls from the trail (Photo by Roland Fernandez)

Since of its mountaineous topography, the province boasts many towering waterfalls, one of them is the Matigol Falls. For about less than 3 hours drive from Davao City via Bukidnon-Davao road, you will be at its jump off point. Thank you to my friend Sheena, she was able to squeeze me in a group going to the falls – with Sir Roland and Sir Jason. Since they already knew the locals, we are able to embark on an unexpected wet adventure.

Another tier of the Falls

Rain Drenched

The trail leading to the waterfall’s basin is a bit tricky during a downpour. Just less than an hour after we start our trek, the rain clouds above us formed, and as expected, we are trodding on a slippery muddy trail with few inches of sheer cliff on our right side – one missed step, and we could slip to our deaths. Thank God we survived and, actually, enjoyed the experience. The buko pie we brought all the way from the jump off point survived too, without being mushy or drenched because of the rain.

We arrived at the basin safe and with a stronger cascade. The multitier waterfalls came down with a monstrous roar and strong blasts of wind and mists. We rested and consumed our snacks. The uphill trek is another adventure. The foot trail is steeper, however, shorter. We reached different tiers of the waterfalls, and crisscrossed its cascade. There are ropes you can grasp, in case you would slip. We ended up at the topmost tier almost dark. As we reached back to the jump off point, our footwears collected much mud that made the trek arduous. We have to clear our soles otherwise endure another dangerous slip and fall onto deep ravines in the dark of the night.

We are happy and contented as we drove back, as this is another one-for-the-books experience.

SULTAN KUDARAT

Bust of Sultan Kudarat, whom the province is named after

The following day, our chartered car picked up us as schedule and we visited the Baras Bird Sanctuary in Tacurong City of Sultan Kudarat province. At the time of our visit, it is breeding season, and from afar, we can actually see white specks from the canopy, indicating the high population of the birds there.

Bird Sanctuary Signage

Egrets hunting for food

Egret perched

QingTravels posing

We arrived and paid registration and found ourselves sauntering through the pathways. Surely, there are lot of migratory birds, the nice and smell of bird poop fills the air. Travel tip: to get close up shots, stay still as long possible and have your telephoto lens handy.

Beautiful Capitol Facade

The Capitol building of Sultan Kudarat is a destination itself. Its iconic yellow gold dome signifies the Muslim culture influence in the province.

Full facade of the Capitol Building

the Golden Sofa sets

We are lucky that we are given access to the prestigious Sultan Hall inside the capitol building. This is where VIPs are lounged during official visits. The interiors are adorned with golden details, another characteristic of Muslim inspired architecture.

Pasalubong Store at the basement

Grand Lobby

The Capitol Complex also houses various provincial offices within its fences. Also, it is beside the common terminal and visiting to this government complex is not daunting or tiring. We are blessed to have met staff and security personnel who are so accommodating that we got access to the elevator, different balcony and the rooftop. Also, they assisted us to the basement where we are able to purchase souvenirs and bring home treats.

SARANGANI

Layers of mountains taken during sunrise

Kiamba is another western coastal town of Sarangani. We decided to spend our day in Tuka Marine Resort, located on one of its scenic coves. About less than 20 minutes of boat ride from Kiamba town, we docked on of the clearest waters I have seen. We never spoiled a minute as we immediately snatched our cameras and started documenting the beach. We stayed on an air-conditioned room with balcony.

waiting for Sunset with Ella, Ann, Qing

magnificent Sunset

Cream colored sandy beach

After which, we tried to ascend the trail leading to a view deck, however, was still on construction at the time of our visit. On our descent, we encountered a wild snake along the trail, we shooed it away to have my friends pass by safely. We marvelled at the sunset over the white sand beach of Tuka Marine and experienced one of the best views.

Jump from buoy

View of another cove

Local fishermen

The morning after, we woke up early and others swam its clear waters briefly. Our boat arrives and fetches and left the beach, the other guests are already jumping their hearts out from the floating hut. This is just one of the hundreds of experience that Sarangani can offer to adventure-seekers.

GENERAL SANTOS CITY

This amazing city caught my attention since I love Tuna Sashimi. Thank you to Francis of Isko Wanders blog, a GenSan-based influencer, who help me access one of the city’s destinations and front row admittance during their main event – the Kalilangan Festival Street Dance competition.

Performer bearing a flag

These boys performing

Young child performing

Happy faces

Lining Up

Live music

That knelt pose

Performers over the risers

Young child performing

On a sunny after, we witness different units sauntering their way to the main judging area donned on glittery and colourful costumes typical of a Mindanaoan descent. Upbeat live music follows each group making us too, dance as we document the exhilarating performances.

Official weighing in

Best to start the day early off to its iconic industry – the fish port – that calls locals and tourists every early morning to witness auctioning of fresh Tuna and deep sea catch. Never did I saw this much of fish in my life – surrounded by boats-load of it, transported via precisely-designed rails, allowing large containers of fish to slid down back to land.

Tuna for sale!

Fish Port Worker

Lots of fresh catch!

Also, being surrounded by large tunas of various sizes being wheelbarrowed from different directions was another preliminary experience. I wish I could have another round of break Tuna Sashimi.

Sarangani Highlands Garden and Restaurant is an uphill property that boasts commanding view of the vast Sarangani Bay and nearby rolling hills and mountainscapes. This is located few minutes drive from the General Santos Fish port.

basic table set up

One of the function halls

Freshly Brewed Coffee

It is best to have your breakfast after your early morning tour from the pier. We spent few hours enjoying its different pocket gardens and of course,  a good dose of quality caffeine – coffee!

One of its pocket gardens

Contact Details:

Address: Purok Wal, Tambler, General Santos City, Philippines

Landline: +63 (83) 304-0752, +63 (922) 859-0043

Email: [email protected]

COTABATO CITY

The city’s boundaries are within Maguindanao’s province of BARMM, however, still administratively with Region XII. The city is served by Awang Airport, which located few minutes’ drive from city center. The famed Grand Mosque in the city is one of the picturesque architectural beauty to marvel.

Facade of the Grand Mosqie

It is named as  Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah Mosque, funded by the Sultan of Brunei for the Muslim community of the city. The structure stands visibly over the plains of Cotabato City, with its four towering minarets and many domes that create a synergetic elegance. Should you be setting foot within its premises, one must follow the rules and culture of Islam. Women should wear hijab and abaya-like dress covering the feet. Men should wear long pants and sleeved top.

Never leave the city without going to its barter, where you can find malongs and sarongs at a very low cost.

Grand Mosque

Another view of the Grand Mosque

THE ARCHIPELAGIC REGION OF MINDANAO IS MORE THAN WHAT WE SEE IN TRADITIONAL MEDIA. IT IS A MELTING POT OF COLORFUL ETHNICITIES AND FAITH ALL CO-EXISTING IN THIS MAGNIFICENT PLACE I WISH THAT IS MY SECOND HOME.