#pe 2015

Travel days really are the bane of my existence.  I woke up at 5:00 am, ate a quick breakfast, and departed for the airport with Father and Marcelo.  After a 30 minute drive I was deposited with a hug and the offer of an open home in Ecuador should I ever return.  Then I was met with a long line to check-in and drop my bag.  The flight to Mexico City was a pleasant 4 hours.  Enough time to watch Sherlock Holmes and most of Kingdom of Heaven.

Once the plane was parked at the gate in Mexico City I deployed my elbows and super speed walk.  I would not be waiting in a 2 hour line for immigration this time.  Indeed I made it through in under 20 minutes.  And then I waited for my bag.  Because apparently if you’re flying in from South America your bags have to be searched by drug dogs, approximately seven times before they are placed on the baggage carousel.  Once through customs, I continued my speed walk to the gate and waited a little less than an hour before boarding.  Overall a more positive experience than flying to Peru, but still not enough to make me ever want to set foot in the Mexico City Airport again.

While I was waiting to board my next flight I picked up a “friend,“ she had been visiting family in Argentina and tried to engage me in small talk.  Unfortunately for her, my eyes had started to droop and I wasn’t much of a conversation buddy.  On the flight to LA I finished Kingdom of Heaven and watched The Longest Ride, because I needed some romantic fluff in my life (the shower scene was very steamy and a bit awkward to watch with a Mexican youth soccer coach sitting next to me).

Upon arrival in LAX I scurried to deplane, I’m really not fond of lines and was determined to avoid the immigration one at all costs.  Turns out, there was no need to worry, our flight was the only one arriving at the time.  I requested my passport be stamped and the immigration control fellow chuckled before complying.  While going through customs I was subjected to an agricultural survey and was asked if I’d traveled anywhere else in the last 12 months.  I think they were surprised when I replied with Southeast Asia.  After I’d dropped by checked bag, I had to hike from Terminal 2 to Terminal 5.  It was good to stretch my legs after at least 5 hours spent on planes.

Due to our plans of hiking to a lake in a volcano crater we rose early.  However during breakfast we heard on the radio that the road we would be using would be closed due to the protests.  So, we went to Plan B.  Hike to a waterfall.  This gave a us more time to eat/get ready.  After driving on one of the bumpiest roads of my life we arrived at the trail head.

We then proceeded to take the wrong trail at least three times before finally managing to find our way.  This was not altogether a bad thing as it was beautiful by the river and the smaller rapids were beautiful.  At one point we were hiking along what was once a trail but hadn’t been used in awhile, some creative scrambling was necessary at times.  Once we found the right path we hiked for twenty or thirty minutes before arriving at the waterfall.  Along the way both Marcelo and Valeria slipped in the same spot, it was video worthy (but alas no one was prepared on that front).  We sat by the waterfall for a couple of minutes, enjoying the beauty, some fruit, and a handful of cookies.

On the drive home, we went over a bump so fast that the three of us in the backseat (Mother, Valeria, and I), who were unequipped with seat-belts, caught some serious air.  Both mother and I hit our heads on the ceiling of the car, but they were both grazing smacks and didn’t hurt that much.  We devoured a tasty lunch of hornado de chancho (roasted pig) before resting for a while.

The morning started out with Mother and I taking antihistamines in order to combat the bug bites that seemed to take over our legs.  During breakfast with Valeria and her parents Mother attempted to eat a banana with a spoon and then started to fall asleep at the table.  Father and I knew something must be up, so we sent her back to bed for about an hour.  During this time we explored the town (not Quito) with Valeria.  It was a nice little stroll, including through a park with giant corn statues.  After our little jaunt, we returned to find Mother in a much better state.  It must have been a bad reaction to the antihistamine.

Next we ventured our into Quito with Valeria and her father.  The first place we visited was a gondola that took us up a mountain.  The view of Quito was amazing, it is a beautiful city.  Then we headed over to the giant statue of the Virgin Mary, holding a chain and stepping on a serpent.  I’m a bit more partial to it then the Christ the Redeemer statue in Brazil.  After a tasty lunch of traditional potato cakes at a restaurant with a great view, we ventured into Old Town Quito.

Here we started off our mini-tour with La Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús (Church of the Society of Jesus).  I have not seen so much gold leaf in/on a religious building outside of Southeast Asia, it was amazing (and beautiful).  Valeria had to serve as translator as the guide did not speak English (or did not know the tour in English).  After we left the church we did more walking.  In the main square we saw a large number of police and protestors.  As we continued walking we saw even more police.  I can honestly say I have never seen so many police in my entire life.  We poked our heads into a few other churches and enjoyed the architecture of other buildings from the outside.

Having the first half of the day free, Mother and I decided to hit up a few museums before catching our flight to Lima.  The day had dawned gray and chilly so we bundled up and headed out.  We hit up the Museo Historico Regional first and enjoyed learning about the different cultural eras that Peru, and Cuzco in particular, experienced since the last Ice Age.  Next we ventured to Museo de Sito del Qoricancha, which is located near the Sun Temple (Qoricancha).  Here we saw more artifacts from past civilizations.  We also saw skulls that had undergone trepanation and some Incan mummies.  After a brief walk back to the Plaza de Armas we sat enjoyed people watching.  However it started to sprinkle, so Mother and I sought shelter.  And picked Jack’s Cafe, the place where we had dined the night before with the Chicago Crew.  Mother and I decided to split and order of the caramelized banana pancakes.  When it arrived it was nothing like we expected but tasty none-the-less.  Then we headed back to the hotel to await our ride to the airport.

The day started off quietly.  Mother and I walked to Aguas Calientes main square, poked our heads in the church, and watched the dogs.  When the market opened up we strolled around it for a couple hours before doing a little more wandering through the town, including up to the hot springs.  After lunch we cruised the market some more, really we were just killing time before our train.  Because we were in no shape to do any more hiking, the day before had nearly killed us.

After 2:50 arrived we made our way to the train station.  There we waited for about half an hour before boarding our train.  As we were settling in there was a tap on our window.  Who should it be, but Tom.  The Chicago Crew would be joining us in Car D.  Our seat companions however, turned out to be two Brazilians.  They were having some sort of drama (tears included).

It was a resting and relaxing three hour train ride back to Cuzco.  That didn't mean it was uneventful.  The journey started off with a tasty snack, including an olive and onion tamale.  After that we saw a grass fire on one of the mountains.  And the lady sitting across the aisle from us remarked: "Is that fire?  I think that's fire."  Mother and I could barely contain our giggles and Mother murmured: "Where there is smoke there is fire."

As the sun was going down there was an announcement on the train.  It was nothing more than an information spiel about a traditional dance.  Little did we know it would shortly be accompanied by said dance.   A young man in a vibrant rainbow suit and cat like mask cavorted throughout the carriage to traditional music.  At the very end he pulled the woman who made the fire comment up and proceeded to dance with her.  She was pretty good sport about the whole thing.  After the dance was the fashion show.  The two stewards proceeded to model alpaca textiles to more music and enthusiastic clapping.  Tom, wearing a Peruvian soccer jersey, decided to join the fun.  And pranced down the aisle, only to disappear behind the curtain at the rear of the car.  Moments later he reappeared wearing a sweater.  Which he proudly marched down the aisle and, with a few hints from Peg, modeled expertly.  All in all it was good fun.  Near the end of the trip I needed to use the loo.  So I ventured forth and beat a quick retreat.  There was a giant window (at least 2 ft x 2 ft) in the bathroom, which was very well lit, and we were cruising through a town.  After we left the town behind I returned once more and turned the light just in case.

After we arrived in Poroy we convened a council with the Chicago Crew.  Dinner plans were made, we would meet in front of Cuzco Cathedral around 8:15.  After a harrowing drive to Cuzco, Mother and I attempted to communicate with the taxi driver, who spoke no English, what time we needed to be picked up.  My German foiled me once again.  I couldn't even get my numbers straight.  Eventually we managed and then proceeded to the hotel.  Where our left luggage was already installed in our room.  So all we had to do was drop our excess baggage before heading to the main square.  We were also reminded that we were at 3,400 meters as we puffed our way up the stairs.  And how much colder it was.

Even though we were proactive in making sure we had plenty of sleep for our 4:30am alarm, the hotel was not put on notice.  We think a disco party was happening in the lobby.  And who needed a 4:30am alarm when somebody slammed their door at 4:15 on their way out.  Because we chose to have breakfast the line for the buses was long when we arrived at 5:15.  But whose smiling faces should we see but our friends from Chicago, Tom and Crew.  The wait wasn't so long, we were on a bus 1 hour and 10 minutes later.  We tried to make up for lost sleep on the bus ride.

After gaining entrance to Machu Picchu for the second day we headed towards the trails leading farther afield.  On the way we noticed from afar that the Chicago Crowd had linked up again with the Stuttgart German duo for an English tour of the ruins.  Mother and I decided to visit the Sun Gate first and proceeded to hike the 2 km out.  We discovered it was a moderately sloping assent with 260 m elevation gain.  A side note: Machu Picchu is very foggy in the morning, something I knew from last time.  Luckily by the time we arrived at the Sun Gate the fog had drifted away and we had a beautiful view of the Citadel.  Our total round trip time was less than two hours and we felt like we could conquer anything.

Oops!

With our spirits high we started the trek up Machupicchu Mountain.  You have to pay for this extra torture (it's included in certain entrance tickets and our tour company thought we would appreciate it).  After leaving the warden hut it appeared that we would encounter a multitude of steps during our assent to the summit.  This stair climbing took over two hours, covering 2.5 km, with an elevation gain of 610 meters.  Some of those stairs were mighty narrow and mighty steep.  The final push required crossing a narrow ridge before arriving at the lookout.  A 360 degree vantage point, including a spectacular view of Machu Picchu Citadel.  It felt like we were on top of the world until we noticed the white capped mountains peaking from the clouds.  The decent took half the time but was twice as rough on the knees.

This led to the most nutritious lunch we have ever eaten.  To up our electrolyte count Mother and I had to improvise and create homemade Gatorade.  We each had a large Fanta and 67 g bag of chips, and we shared water and a brownie.  Overall we agreed it was the most satisfying lunch we had ever eaten.  After this we returned once more to Machu Picchu.

Of course it was to nap.

After we descended a final time via the bus (we had thought about hiking down but any more stairs and our feet would have gone on strike) we headed to the hotel.  Upon arrival a few things were discovered.  Filthy feet/lower legs, sunburns, and blisters.  After taking showers we rested and read.  Before heading to dinner I thought I should blow my hair dry.  This was a minor mistake.  The blow dryer was a comedic experience.  It would not remain plugged in far enough to stay powered on, the sound it emitted was pathetic, and, on top of everything else, it ate my hair.

Mother started off the day by exclaiming that it was 9:00, thereby making us two hours late for our pick up.  After a few blinks the numbers reorganized and it turned out to be only 6:09.  This wake call only interrupted a night of confusion.  Both Mother and I thought it was raining heavily every time we gained consciousness.  Turns out the hotel just turned on a water feature.

Francisco was right on time at 7:20 and got us to Ollantaytambo in time for the train before ours.  This excess time enabled us to purchase insect repellent – which we didn’t use when we should have, bananas – that got mangled before devoured, and some much needed water.  Then we tried to board a train that wasn’t ours.  After this we read for a bit and then boarded our train.  The train ride to Aguas Calietnes was relaxing and enjoyable.  When we passed KM82 I reminisced on my last visit to Peru and what it was like hiking in the Andes.

There was some confusion once we disembarked as to where our guide was or how to get to the hotel.  A kind soul pointed us in the direction of our hotel and we arrived with no incident.  After checking in and visiting our room, reception called and let us know our guide was here.  Turns out it wasn’t our guide but a fellow just taking us back to the train station and depositing us with our guide.  Who turned out not to be our guide, just a handler who made sure we got on the bus and told us our guide would meet us at the top.  After a windy bus ride we arrived at Machu Picchu.  It took a few minutes to find our guide and the eclectic English speaking group.  There was another father/daughter duo from Germany (Rostock this time), a young man from Malaysia who was studying in Cardiff, a young woman from England (who was possibly traveling with the young man from Malaysia), and finally an older American woman who was totally ill prepared and ignorant and her two handlers(?).  This woman was not new to Mother and I, we had seen her trying to buy a hat in Ollantaytambo and sat across the aisle from her on the train.  She was unable to transverse much of the ruins (possibly due to her Ugg slippers) and was soon left behind.

We followed the usual route through Machu Picchu (seeing the Temple of the Sun, Temple of the Condor, Hitching Post of the Sun, as well as enjoying the Incan engineering of water aqueducts).  At the quarry our guide, Hernado, had a million dollar question: What are the 7 Wonders of the Ancient World?  Lucky really, that I was along, having done a project on these in 6th grade (10 years ago).  Unfortunately the mausoleum which always cause me problems as an eleven year old thwarted me yet again.  I knew there was a mausoleum but not where it was located (and this is very important to answering the million dollar question).  With few troubles I listed off: the Great Pyramid, Lighthouse of Alexandria, Colossus of Rhodes (the Germans assisted with this answer), Hanging Gardens of Babylon, Temple of Artemis at Ephesus, Statue of Zeus at Olympia.  And then I tried: The Mausoleum at Herculaneum.  I knew this was wrong the moment I spoke because Herculaneum suffered a fate similar to Pompeii.  Eventually I had to admit defeat with the answer: some mausoleum in a place that starts with H.