#pcmoldova

I was honored to be invited to write something for incoming new volunteers about experiencing my Peace Corps service as a vegetarian. Below is what I prepared for them (sent to them several weeks ago, available for you now):

Through this piece, I intend to share my current reflections on serving as a vegetarian PCV in the Republic of Moldova. It is limited by the short time I’ve been here (only 11 months as I write this, including pre-service training); it is enhanced by other volunteers sharing about their experiences.

I serve together with my significant other; we are both lacto-ovo vegetarians with vegan aspirations. In our reflections, we’ve realized the old maxim has been true: “the more things change, the more they stay the same.”

Ch-ch-ch-changes Our diets have changed in many ways. We eat far less processed food. I drink much less diet cola. We cook the majority of our meals at home  instead of eating out all the time.

Some vegetarians here have a big change in their diets: they now consume meat and/or fish.

Lynn Frances, M28 COD (2013-2016), explains two main changes in her diet: “I am vegetarian. When I lived with my host family for 2 years, I would eat dishes cooked with meat, but not eat the meat… I would eat a little meat at masas (large celebratory communal meals). On my own now, I’m all veg… Before PC, I would eat more restaurant food. Now, I love hrișca (buckwheat) and loads of fresh veggies at the piața (market).”

Katrina Broughman, M30 English Education volunteer (2015-2017), also began eating some meat because doing so in this new context was consistent with her values. “My reason for being vegetarian in the States was due to hormones and steroids in the food,” she explains. “I was more of a localvore, eating meat when I knew where it came from and that it was organic… I don’t feel guilty about eating meat here, since I know my meat is coming literally from the backyard.”

Some omnivores here change their diets toward vegetarianism. In my M30 Health Education cohort (2015-2017), a peer changed from omnivore to vegetarian throughout pre-service training. She made the change “official” by communicating with her future site host family that her new diet is here to stay.

M30 English Educator (2015-2017) Colleen Duran also pulled her diet closer to vegetarianism here: “Over here, I’m actually eating less meat. A big reason for this is storage – people leave food unrefrigerated literally for days, and I just can’t get past that. My host mom likes to unplug the fridge because it’s scump (expensive).”

One social change that’s been welcome to my partner & I is the wide availability of food specifically for Orthodox Christian fasting, or food for post. In its strictest observance, fasting involves renouncing meat, fish, dairy, and eggs. Except for the issue of honey as an ingredient, we are easily able to buy a variety of vegan food or order vegan food at restaurants by asking whether it’s for post or not. Orthodox Christians may or may not participate in fasting depending on how they choose to practice their faith. But the presence of fasting as a well-known tradition means there are a wealth of nearly vegan dishes and recipes – sometimes we even luck out with a nice vegan spread at a masa (large celebratory communal meal) around holidays or that a priest is attending.

I arrived in summer after a lifetime of urban living and half-assed gardening. Moving to the village, to where every family I met had a garden bursting with fresh fruits & vegetables, where I could pick seemingly unlimited cherries and berries, the freshness and abundance of produce was a bright change. Moving later to a town, the abundance of fresh produce as well as the presence of the occasional imported good (Avocados! Broccoli!) continued, though we overwhelmingly bought it at the store.

Same Stuff, Different Country One thing that’s certainly stayed the same is the range of responses people have upon learning we’re vegetarian. As before, it varies widely.

My pre-service training host sister was delighted to hear I was vegetarian. She had eaten nearly vegetarian for years and was happy to have a dietary friend in the house. The family was kind and attentive without drawing undue attention to my diet.

“My pre-service training gazda (host) and my site gazda took it in stride that I don’t eat meat,” reports Ellen, “although they both intimated that it’s ‘kinda weird’.”

A volunteer once told me that her host family prided themselves for their openness: “We’d take a person of color, we’d take a man or a woman, we’d take old or young, couples or singles. We’d take anyone,” they boasted, “except for one of those vegetarians.”

With our host family at site, our vegetarian diet became described as a bother and a hardship to them. Our host mother was concerned for our health and certainly didn’t want a guest to die under her roof, which she was certain would happen if we didn’t eat meat. So, she worked hard daily at convincing us that we needed to eat meat. More than once we’ve heard about a friend-of-a-friend who became vegetarian and their blood turned white, so they had to start eating meat again.

Another similarity between meeting new people back home in the Midwest and here in our towns & villages has been the interrogation that follows once people know we’re vegetarian. Surely you can recognize the questions from our stock answers: “Yes, we really don’t eat meat… No, not fish either… No, I haven’t gotten sick… No, I’m not hungry all day… I eat beans and tofu and nuts and mushrooms, etc.” The only stock question I haven’t heard – and it may be due only to my limited language skills – is what I would do on that desert island vegetarians & vegans seem to constantly wind up on.

Occasionally the conversation feels judgmental or argumentative, but more often for us it stems from people simply noting a difference and that becoming a topic to discuss. “People thinks it’s weirder when I refuse bread than when I refuse meat,” reports Colleen. “It’s like that scene from My Big Fat Greek Wedding: ‘What do you mean you don’t eat no BREAD!?’” Given that we spend a lot of time being the new person in the room and people are getting to know us, this interesting factoid about ourselves has been a frequent thread of conversation.

Another similarity we’ve noted is misogyny within attitudes towards vegetarianism. Meat-free diets are seen as feminine, an supposedly inferior diet fine for women given our supposedly innate physical weakness and emotional irrationality. “I often heard back home and still often hear here ‘But you’re a man, you need meat!’” reports Chris Flowers, M30 Community & Organizational Development Volunteer (2015-2017). “People are much more upset, confused, and vocal about me, as a male, being vegetarian than they are about my partner, as a female, being one.”

A thankful similarity we’ve found is that there is community for vegetarians and vegans, though it might not feel like it initially. We vegetarians & vegans are here in Peace Corps, both American and Moldovan. There are events in Chișinău that celebrate vegetarian and vegan food, connecting with the many motivations we have for our diets. Many of us also thankfully report finding local allies that help, a colleague or host family member who looks out for us when we’re at gatherings that ensure we’re fed and ensure that we’re not too bombarded with questions.

Unsolicited advice For any vegetarians or vegans about to serve in Moldova, we have some advice you didn’t ask for but hopefully will enjoy:

*Be open to changes – there will be countless changes in your life, your dietary choices may be among them. Peace Corps tries to prepare us for serving as vegetarians/vegans by writing personal essays in our application process. Think back to what you wrote, try to clarify what values drive your current choices. These values may remain the same but manifest differently in your diet.

*Have some initial boundaries ready – clarify for yourself what you initially will/won’t ingest and what you feel flexible about – and try to learn how to communicate them. “It's key to get the language early on to communicate your dietary needs,” explains Collen. Discuss early with your Language & Technical Instructors (LTIs) about how to communicate this effectively – “Ask your LTIs to help talk to your PST host family for you about your diet,” suggests Chris. “While you’re in the process of early language learning, they can do the talking for you.” LTIs are also a resource on how this communication might differ from your experience in other cultures (for example, a cultural norm here around food is to offer something repeatedly before accepting a “no” response). While these boundaries might change over time, having an initial plan in place can help in navigating initial interactions more comfortably.

*Know that Peace Corps staff are here to help us work through issues with host families and partners. If you feel like you’re having issues with either of these around food, staff members can help talk through the issue and support actions that work for you. It doesn’t mean you’re being a burden, being ridiculous, being pushy, or getting anyone in trouble – it simply means you’re asking for support navigating an issue. You will play a major part in its resolution, staff just help you get there.

*Tap into support networks. If you’re on Facebook, join the PC Moldova Vegetarians group. Find out which staff and volunteers are vegetarian/vegan and talk about it. Peer Support Network helps PCVs find places for Day of Mourning/Thanksgiving get togethers each November – ask who’s hosting a vegetarian one or host a vegetarian one yourself. Keep an eye on VeganShow.md for upcoming vegan expositions. If you’re on social media, use #PeaceCorpsVegetarians and #PCVEats to connect internationally around food with other volunteers. Find folks to talk with, commune with, vent with, and dine with!

*Have fun with food! “Experiment,” says Ellen. “In addition to enjoying vegetarian dishes prepared Moldovan style, try making them your own by spicing them up, using different cooking techniques.” During pre-service training it is unlikely you’ll cook much, but learn where you can.

*Remember Goals 2 & 3 of Peace Corps – food is a powerful medium for culture. Having a much-discussed diet makes it that much easier and more interesting to share about American culture with Moldovans and Moldovan cuisine with Americans.