Victor: 2010 Chevy Volt
Sometimes a really good deal comes about and you just canât pass it up. Such is the case with this 195,000 mile 2010 Chevrolet Volt first generation. Ultimately this vehicle would get refreshed and sold to a good friend of mine to replace a 2006 Kia minivan.
Service Stats
In Service Date: 2/6/2022 In Service Mileage: 195,455 Out of Service Date: 6/19/2022 Out of Service Mileage: 201,200 Service Life: 5 months, 5,745 miles
The History & Story
This car was owned by my friend Tyler in Chattanooga. He replaced it with a 2017 Chevy Bolt EV, and offered it to me for the incredibly low price of $1500. My intention was to fix the car up so itâd pass NC inspection (it had a MIL) and sell it to a friend of mine. Getting this thing fixed up was going to break me of ever touching anything with an internal combustion engine again.
Tyler was up front about the MIL, the non functional parking sensors, the body damage, cracked/leaking tail light, and the crack in the windshield. This car had been pretty much abused its whole life -- Tyler was the 4th or 5th owner, and he said the guy he bought it off of (something like 4 or 5 years ago) had never once plugged it in to charge. Despite that, if driven conservatively without climate control, you could pull 32 miles out of the originally rated 36 mile battery. Even to this day the car is able to make the drive from its new home in Durham to my home in Raleigh on just battery power.
So what all was triggering the MIL? Well, we had the P0CE0 code - which meant one of the coolant pumps was acting up, We also had a P0420 - catalyst below threshold (possible bad catalytic converter), codes for misfires, and a few other things. I called a local shop that specializes in hybrids and they agreed to look at it. Ultimately they said they werenât comfortable working on the Chevy hybrid system and that if I could resolve the battery-related code (P0CE0) that they could work on the traditional engine-related stuff. Ok, off the Sir Walter Chevrolet we go...
I dropped the car off and had Brad drive me home on his lunch break (he worked for Team PowerSports down the street at the time). They told me it needed a catalytic converter, a battery cooling pump, they recommended spark plugs and a transmission fluid change. I approved replacing the coolant pump and nothing else, because they had a near $3000 repair order and I had a feeling that the catalytic converter wasnât gone on this car. Sir Walter replaced the pump -- or so we thought -- for over $1000 cost and I then took it back to Torque to have the spark plugs replaced, transmission fluid changed, and to check the exhaust system and tell me if the car really needed a new catalytic converter.
Wouldnât you know that my hunch paid off? The secondary air injection pump was leaking, if this pump malfunctions the system canât properly check the catalytic converterâs exhaust to ensure it is meeting the targets. The SAI pump is integrated into the valve cover of the car and wasnât an expensive part. They had to remove the valve cover anyway to do the spark plugs, so that saved a little labor costs. $900 later, the car is back with a warning. They drove it 30 miles but they canât get the readiness to set -- the MIL is off, but it wonât pass inspection until the readiness registers are all set.
What are readiness registers, you ask? Your vehicle has 7 checks that must have a passed value in order to pass an OBD inspection. It turns out that the Volt requires a number of different driving cycles in order to set the registers. Driving it for 30 miles on the highway simple wonât set them, unlike most other internal combustion vehicles. I read a post about someone who had over 60,000 miles on their Volt and moved to a new state that required an emission inspection and he had to drive the car with a depleted battery for two days to set the registers. Apparently it needs to see low speed cold driving, highway driving at least 60mph, and a slew of other scenarios -- thankfully this was all well laid out by a forum post.
So over the next few days I drove the car in all the conditions and got the registers to set, except the MIL came back on for P0CE0 -- the HV Battery Cooling Pump. What the hell. So I call Sir Walter and I get the service manager and try to explain the situation, he cuts me off and says that they refuse to service this or any other vehicles that I own and Iâm free to take it elsewhere. Apparently being called out for missing a leaking air pump during the 150-point inspection was triggering. I told him if he refused to correct this repair, which carries a year or 12,000 miles of warranty, I would be forced to dispute the charge with my credit card company. He said youâre welcome to do that and hung up on me. Needless to say, I will never patronize nor recommend anyone patronize Sir Walter Chevrolet of Raleigh.
I opened a dispute with Chase and they said they needed a second opinion on the repair. I was advised to take it to another dealership and have them evaluate if the pump in question was replaced. Off to Capital Chevrolet in Wake Forest. These folks were super, super nice and their shop is much cleaner and nicer than Sir Walterâs. I told the service advisor everything that was going on and what I needed, she said no problem we will get the Volt tech to check it out and call you. The next day, or perhaps the day after, I got a call with some fascinating news.
Sir Walter did replace a coolant pump - but they replaced the wrong one. The pump they replaced has two hose connections, the one they should have replaced has three. The best part? The part numbers for these two pumps are one sequential digit apart. Someone likely mistypes 8 instead of 9 and volia...the wrong part is ordered. They confirmed that the pump that circulates the coolant into the cabin heater was the pump replaced, and that the code stored in the ECU was for the battery circulation pump. They quoted me $800 to replace it -- turns out the part is $32 online and itâs mounted right on the passenger side firewall, immediately visible when you open the hood.
I declined the repairs, paid for the diagnostic and requested that they state in the RO that the wrong pump was replaced. They did as I asked, and they had charged the car for me before I picked it up. Super good experience, I will be back if I ever buy a Chevy again. So, now I have the evidence needed to win my dispute with Chase. It took a few weeks, but I did win the dispute and the $1000+ repair charge was refunded. But, we still have a bad pump to contend with...
The other issues this car had were minor. The passenger tail lamp and the reverse lamp needed to be replaced. I managed to score both parts on ebay for cheap, and paid my neighbor to install them for me at his body shop. So long as we could get the MIL to turn off, we could get the car inspected with a new owner (side note: out of state vehicles registered in NC have one year to become inspection compliant upon initial registration). Talking with Tyler, he said that the MIL would go off in the summer but always came back in the winter. He never cared since TN didnât require an emission inspection.
I tried everything to reprogram the pump, and was about to pull the trigger on a new one when the MIL went out on its own one day. I decided that it was best to sell the car in June/July so that the P0CE0 would self-clear because apparently the pump doesnât throw the code when itâs warm out (which is weird, but, whatever). So the plan was now to wait and see if the MIL would go out on its own, and if so to get it inspected with the next owner.
Meanwhile, as all this is going on, my tenantâs vehicle died on him. Heâd quit his job and was doing DoorDash/Uber Eats/gig work and was in a panic. We lent him the car and he actually drove it past 200,000 miles - he put roughly 3,000 miles on it in less than two months. I didnât want to hang on to this car forever, so I knew I needed to come up with a plan to enable me to sell it.
I sold the car to my pottery friend Brandon. Brandon already had a MATE ebike, and was fully sold on the idea of an electric car. He had an old, beat up 2006 Kia Sedona minivan that we managed to sell for $800. He agreed to pay the full amount we had in the car (about $2800), and he even had an exterior 120v outlet at his rental house to charge the car with. He got the vehicle titled in his name with a 10-day temporary tag and we took it over to the Volvo dealership by our house for an inspection. There was a moment of panic as the MIL lit up momentarily once it was pulled into the bay, but it went out after a few ignition cycles. Fortunately, it passed inspection and was given a permeant tag.
Brandon is very happy with the car. I think the fuel that was in the car when I sold it to him lasted him almost 4 months before he had to refill the car. He uses it in EV mode almost 100% of the time. The MIL is back on, and if it doesnât go off when itâs time to renew his plate then we may end up replacing that pump -- I found a radiator shop that seemed open to installing the part after they did some quick research on the car.
So why did this break me from ever owning another internal combustion engine vehicle? I got really dirty just opening the hood on this thing. That valve cover/Air Injection Pump leak sprayed oil all over the place. The catalytic converter situation was annoying. In short, Iâd rather not deal with any of that crap ever again. Iâll swap a battery, Iâd probably find it entertaining to replace a module in a battery pack... but I donât want to contend with engine oil ever again.











