#owaka

Yeah, the sun has returned! In a similar fashion as to when you get sick, then when good health returns you seem to be much more grateful than before your illness... Today's sunshine was greeted with a warm smile of appreciation. The chickens (no rooster to wake you up early 👍) and the sheep kept right across from my apartment by the innkeeper looked especially bright and picturesque owing to the morning sunshine. We slated two nights in Owaka amidst the scenic south Otago and Southland coastline so that today we could explore every bay, cliff and waterfall along a 100km stretch and that's exactly what we did! We aimed for the well known Purakaunui Falls around 8AM. A ten minute walk took us through tropical looking forest with huge trees and ferns along the swollen stream bed. The massive bolus of rainfall had swelled these falls to probably 10 times their normal volume. Picture is below. 👇 We then had sights on a cafe in Papatowai but since nothing was open (before 10) we looped down to the beach and then aimed for the coast. We veered off the pavement as we wound down Tahakopa Beach road to find our first good look toward the Southern Ocean. Many don't count the waters north of 60°S as the Southern Ocean but we are at the limits of the Southern Pacific @ >46°S latitude and nothing between here and Antarctica. The South Island sports many rugged cliffs to the water with interesting rock formations trying to hold back the light blue waves. On our first foray to the south coast, we were met by a herd of cattle all looking curiously at us. Four of them abreast all with different coloring were an attention getter. A private resort and a farm fence forced a retreat before making it all the way to a bay or overlook but we had the rest of the day ahead of us. We then wound along gravel and dirt on Puaho road maybe 15kms back to the paved road. Next stop was the Florence Hill lookout. Here there was a Spouting Cave on an offshore island noted by a sign and visible as the waves crashed on one side and were channeled out a blow hole. There was also a mesmerizing view of the waves rolling in a long bay to meet a curved, pristine beach. Wow. It was breakfast time and rode to the Whistling Frog cafe/campground another 12 clicks down the windy road. More then one time it was said how beautiful the road/scenery was. Had a tasty hot chocolate garnished with a chocolate covered fish-shaped marshmallow cookie. 😋 Also enjoyed bacon and eggs on an English muffin and hash browns. Couldn't resist a raspberry white chocolate muffin also. Each item came garnished with a colorful, small edible flower for a fancy flair. We met up with our motel neighbors spending 7 weeks riding around NZ on their beautiful Aprilias. The woman has a fancy Tuono that made Ted a bit jealous (he has one). We also met a couple North Island riders on their way to Invercargill and the rally. We had met them briefly at Florence Hill and they shared some stories from their first Burt Monro visit, two years earlier.

The next stop on the South Coast was Curio Bay. Before we got there, we were abruptly stopped by a sizable herd of cows on the road. We didn't move forward and got some good pics as one of the nearby bulls eyed me warily as I eyed his horns... A car pulled up behind us and he said to go ahead. Since I am on a bike I invited him to lead the way. We followed as he slowly approached and they did yield but the road was narrow and the herd didn't have a lot of extra room. As we made it 3/4 of the way through we saw four dogs and a herder moving them up the road, eastward against our flow. Nobody was gored. I imagined that I might encounter sheep on the road but hadn't given much thought to cattle. A couple spots to date I had seen no fence for the sheep but all had steered clear of the road. Mostly all animals have been fenced in so far, however. I wish the Curio Bay pics did it justice. It is a campground and there are well manicured expanses of grass all the way up and along the top of the cliff/overlook. With waves and rock formations nearly 270° around you it is almost overwhelming.

Moving west, the next highlighted stop was Slope Point, the southernmost point in the South Island. A 20' walk through a breezy and grassy headland brings you to a lighthouse and a famous yellow marker sign. The end of our westward swing was the "town" of Fortrose. One cafe and it was packed. We settled in to two of the only empty seats. People were standing and talking and at least a dozen riders were there. After salmon and prawn salad was ordered we took in the atmosphere. Busy and fairly loud. Then, the noise reduced and we heard a woman's voice. She addressed the entire restaurant and wore a yellow vest and a walkie talkie. She was with the Dept. of Conservation and announced that we were being evacuated. She reported that roads both east and west of Fortrose were closed due to rising waters and that everyone was instructed to head to higher ground to the town hall of Tokanui. We tried to absorb this news. I imagined a cot at best, maybe a cushion if I was lucky to sleep on the floor of the town hall. We were told that civil defense was set up there with more information about the situation. In order to add gravitas to her proclamations, a helicopter then took off right next to the Fortrose Cafe. Turns out it was a news chopper looking to get footage of the disasters unfolding in Southland. I was not excited to spend the night. We talked and agreed to try to make our way back 90km to Owaka. She told us the road was closed eastward at Papatowai. Riding now with a purpose as it was 1:35 and the "wall of water" was expected by 4 we cruised with more silence than usual, wondering if the 60km ride east would just force a return to Tokanui or elsewhere. Each car stopped along the road at first seemed to be the police waiting to turn us away. As we approached Papatowai we rounded a curve and there they were. Sirens lit, parked obliquely and blocking our left lane completely. Ugh. We stopped and he started to walk over to us. Instead of telling us to turn around, he waved us through. Huge relief! We heard stories the rest of the day if people turned away at that same checkpoint and also at Balclutha. Having no idea why we were let through but grateful for our gamble paying off, we got gas and cruised into Owaka by our motel and took out our lunch and ate it outside the closed Lumber Jack cafe. A Dutch couple, a Swiss couple, and a group of four bikers all approached us to discuss the state of road closures and how/if travel west to Invercargill was possible. According to the news no travel to/from Invercargill is possible today. We must check out tomorrow AM and have an apartment rented in Invercargill the next three nights so fingers are crossed that the highest floodwaters have passed the Makarewa River there.

Woke up to the expected rain. While loading the bikes we chatted for a few minutes with a couple guys on Harleys who along with us secured the only covered parking spots behind the Victoria hotel. They were both Goldwing riders back in Atlanta (!) and Edmonton and were less than thrilled with the handling of their Street Glides. They hadn't been aware of the Burt Monro Rally and were wishing they had booked a week later as they were headed back north to CHC. The rain which hasn't been too bad (until today) has been pounding the south and west coasts. In fact, schools are out in this area due to localized flooding and buses not being able to navigate successfully. One event that occurred due to flooding is going to force a change in our plans. https://www.nzherald.co.nz/nz/news/article.cfm?c_id=1&objectid=12305737

The poor folks who got stuck and hundreds are still marooned on the Milford Sound side of this washout! Imagine if you got stuck and had to be choppered out. 🚁 What would you do about your rental bike or car? Crazy. Only one road from Te Anau up to and back from Milford Sound. Doubtful the road will be reopened in six days time when we have a reservation on a boat out of that port to see glaciers and fiords. Oh well. They say a week or more until repairs will be completed. We had another short riding day slated. Tonight Elton John is performing at the Dunedin stadium and we needed to adjust our route to adapt to the reality of zero room availability in Dunedin tonight due to that concert. The Rocketman screening 🎥 was for the Elton fans flocking to Dunedin. Only a couple hours ride on tap so we took a small detour to ride around the Otago peninsula which is accessible from central Dunedin. Despite the drizzle and a few construction zones where it seems they are adding a walking/biking lane along the bay, the scenery on the peninsula was beautiful. A few sailboats were moored in various harbors and the large cruise ship docked in town was visible across the sound. We opted to grab brekkie at the Portobello cafe. I opted for a banana milkshake (good but no ice cream), bacon & egg sandwich with sausage links and topped off with a homemade carrot cake and fresh whipped cream. I even saw the milkman deliver the milk and cream as we ate there outside. The weather gave us the only break of the day during that hour into the peninsula. As we headed back to the mainland and highway 1 south, Mother Nature gradually increased her intensity with more rain. We stopped for some memorable pics of the hillsides, tree lined sheer cliffs along the road all overlooking the water or the dormant and verdant Dunedin volcano. Instead of rocks strewn about its signature comical base, this volcano is covered in sheep! The interstate-like 1 through Dunedin gives way to the usual two lane road 10 miles or less outside of town. We got gas in Milton and due to the steady rain and dropping temperatures to around 50°F we skipped the well maintained Sod cottage that sits immediately adjacent to the road south of there. As we wound down towards Balclutha we began to notice the large volume of water. Standing pools became lakes in the fields, streams were roaring and overflowing their banks and impromptu rivers founds their way through unexpected farmlands. The Clutha River was very high and from what we hear, the south road to Invercargill may be flooded and we may have to retrace our path to Balclutha to then swing westward to Invercargill in a couple days. Soaking wet, we tried to check in to the Catlins Gateway motel but were unable to raise the innkeeper. We were an hour and a half prior to check in so we rode down the street to the Catlins Cafe and both enjoyed a hearty homemade tomato soup accompanied by two large and delicious slabs of garlic bread. 😋 Our gear was dripping all over the place and it was nice to warm up the hands. Not sure why I was riding in my mesh gloves in the 49° cold rain. After lunch the innkeeper was there and was very friendly. He told us if the local sites, restaurants and what roads might be closed due to the rains. A laundry room has already been used and the heater in my apartment style unit has been on high for hours already. The bed even has a heated blanket, sweet. The laundry and blog duty has kept me from a rainy afternoon nap but I have been getting solid rest. I had to make a toast last night for being out and not asleep at 11 PM. 🍻 Just down the street is Teapotland. A Route 66 worthy place to stop. Cool. I'll get a pic when the rains diminish. I think we'll walk to the recommended Lumber Jack cafe for dinner in a bit. A number of waterfalls should be much larger than usual if we can get to them tomorrow. Also a nearby beach by the Nugget Point lighthouse has some endangered penguins which come ashore later in the afternoon. Hopefully we can see them tomorrow.

SCRUBS!!! Scrubs everywhere! A fictional character is dead and I thought he was alive 5evar!