#nerf longstrike

My life might be reaching a satisfactory conclusion. That. That is a nerf N-strike White Out Longstrike, a once in a lifetime find, I might be getting it. I just hope to God I win an auction for once in my life.

Hollywood hire me pls

Here is the second HPA build. This is my hpa bolt action mod of a nerf longstrike. I wanted to focus this post on the actual pressure system. I made it as simple as possible, although not as efficient as I think I could given more time and some extra hardware. It takes 12oz or 16oz threaded co2 canisters, although I saw that the 20oz uses the same size and so those should work as well but I haven't tried because I don't have any. The canister attaches to a co2 bike tire quick fill adapter. This was a quick and simple (and inexpensive) way to make a hook-up for the canister. I needed an adapter to take it to the 3/8 npt inlet for the regulator so I used a 1/8 brass air hose pressure fitting which has a male 3/8 npt on one side and a cap fitting on the other. To make it an adapter I used a presta valve stem that I got from local bike shop, for free Pitt if a dead inner tube and just took pin outof the valve. The reason I went with a presta valve over a Schrader valve is because they tend to have a flared base which fit inside the hose fitting and made a great seal with just a little jb weld epoxy. This completed adapter and hook up screwed right until the regulator's inlet. The adjustable regulator was the smallest one I could find that could handle the 800psi of a new co2 canister, it's bigger than I wanted but worked well enough. Using snap fittings I ran 125psi 1/4 air hose to a clippard mjv-3 manual solenoid valve that acts as the trigger. There is a bit of a loop in the line acting as the expansion chamber helping me save space and material by not actually needing one, I only needed about 15 cubic milliliters of air for the chamber. The mjv-3 is rated to 150 but I found it can handle at least 300, which is nice but much more than I felt safe using in a nerf mod. Using snap connectors on the in and out of the valve I ran another line up right to the back of the breach. I'm planning on a post about just the chamber, but here is the simple of it; the line runs into the slide and a captured o-ring allows the bolt to move over the line without losing pressure. Once the slide closes, pushing the dart into the barrel there's is just an open thin line straight to behind the dart. Nice, clean, and simple. Regulator builds 110psi between the valve and the regulator, pull the trigger and the valve opens that pressure right behind the dart and bam, shot fired. The chamber is a u shaped closed brass breach to help maintain pressure when fired. It loses a bit of air there since the brass isn't a perfect fit, but it's little enough to still be very effective. On the end is a 5 thread SCAR barrel to give fantastic accuracy. I'll probably do a post just on the barrel to, there was a bit of trial and error in that. The regulator is mounted into the butt stock, which turns out to be a pain to open, there are 10 screws and multiple points that are solvent welded, but once I had it open I was able to run the pressure line inside the stock and up though the grip. This ended up giving a great integrated look, hid some of the pursue tube, and helped balance the weight. The entire project required me to cut away a ridiculous amount of the internal structure, luckily very little was for stability, must was just for holding the original workings, but it was a bit horrifying to be ripping out so much plastic add there was no going back if out didn't work.

Wow. O_O