#nazarids

Granada’s last proclamation of love to the Moors

The Alhambra palace complex, Granada

On the secluded Sabika hill, by the lavish banks of river Darro, rigorously protected by the brooding Sierra Nevada peaks and surrounded by a dense forest, lies Granada’s last proclamation of love to the Moors. The Alhambra rises majestically over the vast green plains, resembling a magical vision, for it was built to impress! 

This splendid monument with its sturdy and robust outer walls hides a delicate and fragile interior. The emblematic fortified palace started its life as a walled citadel before becoming the opulent seat of Granada’s Nasrid Emirs. Its construction was ordered in the 13th century by the Nasrid Emir Mohammed Ibn Yusuf Ben Nasr, also known as “Al Ahmar”. It is one of the best-preserved palace complexes in the Islamic world and represents Moorish rule in Spain.

Moreover, it was the last Moorish, Muslim state and stronghold in Al Andalus. Alhambra is a construction wonder, so sophisticated that we first now, after 500 years, start to realise, and learn its true potential.

From underground tunnels that snake below the palace’s surface to enigmatic carvings are just now being understood, is Alhambra finally revealing its mysteries?

Alhambra is not just a palace, even though it is often referred to as such, but this place is actually a whole citadel within the city of Granada. It has a complex of different palaces, gardens, passageways, and a fortress. It became the home to the Sultan and his family, as well as the home to the court, and many workers.

The Alhambra is the only extended citadel that still stands today almost as perfectly as it was since the beginning. The colourful name Alhambra originates from the Arabic word; al-Hamrā, which means “the red one”.

There are several reasons for the name, one alludes to the colour of the fortress, which in Arabic is; al-Qal’at al-Hamrā or, “the red fortress”. In addition, the rulers of Alhambra derived from a Berber tribe called al-Ahmar meaning “the red”.

The red palace city is built from Tapia earth, found at the foot of the Sabika hill. The palace complexes got their colour from this red earth, but the surroundings are just as colourful, there is no confusion as to where it got its name.

The old historical path embedded in mystery and a witness to a murder

Wall towers of the Alhambra palace complex, Granada

Having sorted out the origins of the name Alhambra, we can further conclude that this reddish palatial city is beyond the shadow of a doubt a palace of concealed wisdom and ancient secrets, yet to be discovered.

Even though the old historical path of upper Alhambra, leading to the elevated levels of the citadel is commonly known, it is also embedded in mystery and even witnessed an ancient murder.

In the front of the gate ruins, in the oldest part of Alhambra for which any remains have been found, that served as an entryway to the remains of the stone-paved road that once joined the inside of the palace Medina to the outside gates, known as Arrabal. Even though the portal now feels more like a gateway to travel in time, as if it would bring you into the Nasrid’s glorious past.

Here is where the path, scattered with divers towers and named “the promenade of the towers” began. The reason for its name is the fact that this route, which followed the main wall of Alhambra, from the portal gardens to the upper Alhambra passed by a number of towers*. The towers stood out as milestones along the narrow path. The trail started by the tower of the pointed battlements.

*Six of the 30 Towers are named as follows; the tower of pointed battlements, the tower of the Cadí, the captive’s tower, the infant tower, the career corporal’s tower, and the water tower.

The walk intermittently crossed landscaped terraces filled with the Damascus rose, jasmine and trumpet creepers over a fortress wall. From up here, you could also see the pink blossoms and, sometimes if they are blooming, even smell the sweet scent of the crape myrtle trees. It is one of the loveliest views from upper Alhambra.

It was on this same path, somewhere from these altitudes, on the 19th of October 1354, through the dense morning mist that a security guard spotted the young Sultan Yusuf I initiating his daily morning prayer. It was just before daybreak, and even though it was still dark and foggy, he could see from up here how Sultan Yusuf’s bodyguard suddenly launched on the praying Emir with a knife and stabbed him to death, Yusuf was only 33 years old.

It was no coincidence this guard was up here witnessing the murder unfold. In historical times this path was frequented by both guards, military personnel and messengers. The towers served multiple purposes, as accommodation containing bedrooms, as a lookout to guard the inner palace complexes and the outside areas of the citadel from danger, as well as controlling who entered and exited the city.

It also served complex military purposes, but it was also a location for sending and receiving secret mirror messages from far away places. These messages were sent throughout the entirety of al-Andalus forming a complex and sophisticated network of mirror signalling, to exchange information and as an early warning, in case of danger. This practice and way of communication was especially important and vital to the Muslim states in al Andalus during the later periods of its existence.

To receive information as early as possible was key to survival, and the Nasrids rulers of Alhambra were exceptionally progressed and elaborated in these techniques. Alhambra was probably the most advanced of all Moorish states, and as a result of their advancement in the field, they were the last standing Moorish settlement in the Iberian peninsula at the end of the existence of al-Andalus.

The Muslim architects who built the citadel were geniuses, there is no doubt about that. There are plenty of fascinating building surprises hidden in Alhambra. For instance, they used anti-seismic structures in their buildings, well aware that the region was a seismic area. Alhambra was no exception, thanks to its seismic building knowledge it has survived earthquakes for almost 800 years.

They used lead foils in between the columns and the foundations, so whenever there was an earthquake the building followed the movement without collapsing.

The talking walls

Walls of the Alhambra palace carved with calligraphic text.

The walls can talk, not literally, the walls are not exactly going to speak to you, but the walls of Alhambra do have words carved all over them. The enigmatic inscriptions on the walls are a type of calligraphic decoration as well as they rely on a message, in the form of poems that describe parts of the holy Quran. The palace also used water lilies to create scent in its rooms.

Isn’t it amazing how the sabika hill, Sierra Nevada mountain chain and the rest of al Andalus have lived more time listening to Arabic than they have to Spanish?

For almost 800 years, this place witnessed power and love stories from the Muslim Sultans; but has only witnessed Spanish passion for a little over 500 years. But don’t worry if you don’t speak Arabic, there is always someone to ask who can explain the beauty of these phrases to you.

One of the most interesting facts about the Alhambra is that besides being a giant book, it can also tell you what time it is. The truth is that the genius architects surprise us again with yet another amazing feature, the entire palace complex is perfectly aligned to work as a massive sundial. Just by watching the sun and the shadows in the red palace, you will know what time it is.

At noon, half of the rooms will have shade, and the other half sunlight, so choose your visit time wisely!

The chambers of secrets

Whispering galleries can also come to be beneath a dome or vault, like in this lovely decorated ceiling in Alhambra.

The Alhambra does actually have its own “chambers of secrets”, also known as the whispering gallery. The reason for its name is, yet another architectural feature, created in the palace.

The Andalusian builders constructed a curation in the ceiling that made the sound travel from one corner of the room to the other, so be careful what you say and to whom you say it too, and don’t share any secrets while you are there!

Something that any engineer or architect lover realises as soon as they step foot in Alhambra is mathematical precision as the main element of construction. The beauty that you will see in this place is all thanks to minuscule mathematical calculations, and perfect engineering and geometry in the structures, decorations and tiles.

However, the original Muslim architects are said to have left unnoticeable imperfections in the decorations and tiles, as they used to say; 

“only God can do perfect”. 

If you want, you can take on the challenge and try to find some!

A network of tunnels

Tunnel in the Alhambra, Granada

Standing on the beautiful square of “Paseo de los tristes” in Granada, with your back facing the old Arabic neighbourhood of Albaicin, you look up at the forbidden walls of Alhambra, the most iconic Moorish monument in Spain. Beneath you, and separating you from this great 10th-century fortress is the Darro river, which gurgles through central Granada amidst lush banks and under century-old bridges.

If you look closer, set into the steep hillside, beneath a gracefully crumbling old townhouse, are small iron gates almost entirely obscured with grass and ivy. These are the entrances to just a few of what is believed to be an extensive network of underground tunnels linking the Alhambra to Albaicin and the rest of the city.

This secret world beneath one of Spain’s most famous attractions has recently made the Spanish news. Even if the track on the dilapidated bank of the Darro river that faces the paseo de los tristes is open to visits, it is only one month a year and only small groups of visitors are allowed. 

On one hand, this is because of security risks as these deteriorated, badly kept tunnels can pose a danger to the visitors but also the other way around; mass tourism can damage the already old and fragile tunnel system. They seem set to remain shrouded in mystery and legend, and to keep their dark secrets forever.

However, the extended tunnel network that snakes below the glorious palace-city, would in its time, have served several purposes. The enigmatic subterranean pathways consist of at least 21 underground dungeons, meticulously connected to the ancient underground passages. These dungeons were linked to the outside world only by small openings in their ceilings, and they had access to the earlier mentioned labyrinth web. The caverns are believed to have served as storages for, amongst other things, grain, wheat, and other necessities.

As for the entire labyrinth of tunnels; it would have allowed the residents of the palatial city to come and go unseen, especially important during sieges and as a last resort for the Moorish rulers, in need of urgent escape.

The secret underground network of tunnels would prove to be of utmost importance when the Moorish rule came to its end, and the Nasrids lost their grip on power and abruptly faced their downfall. As the 800 years of glorious Moorish rule was over, everyone remaining with a dissimilar opinion to the new re-conquers faced harsh retribution, and was either killed, exiled, or underwent the most horrible torture imaginable. The country entered a very dark and eerie time period, a time that struck terror into the rest of the known world and shook it to its core.

Court of the Lions by night, Alhambra, Granada

The beauty and splendour of the Nasrids palace city is incomparable to anything ever seen. The mathematically calculated architecture combined with the sophisticated fragile artwork, ornated with fine details, rough robust walls and delicately decorated pillars everything is in perfect balance, in a divine harmonic symphony!

Alhambra radiates sophistication, elegance and mystery, a greatness that words fail to describe. A superior jewel beyond comparison.