#monitor controller

Monitor controller, new guts.

The aforementioned Electronics-Salon relay switching board (at center, with the blue relays) has replaced a mechanical rotary switch for output routing. There are now 4 separate outs (each of them stereo & balanced):

Mains

Mono sum to Avantone

Small speakers

Headphone amp

In the pic, the mono sum output is the rightmost of the 4 output jacks. Left and right channels are summed through pairs of 12k resistors hanging off the jack (both + and - sides of the balanced signal are summed).

Still rocking a Dantimax RelVol3 for the stepped relay attenuation.

New mute switch toggle in front simply cuts power to the output relay board, thereby closing all the relays.

The Electronics-Salon board required at least 8 volts, while the Dantimax attenuator and control boards still need 5 volts. So I re-did the power supply (small vertical protoboard on the right) with an external 9V wall wart, passed through a polarity protection diode (which drops the voltage to ~8.4 V) to the Electronics-Salon board. That power is also split off to an MC78M05 voltage regulator, which creates the 5 V for the Dantimax boards.

Added flyback diodes to the Electronics-Salon Balanced Four Stereo Audio Signal Input Selector Relay Module. Why they omitted them in the first place, I don’t know.

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I drew up a quick schematic, see below. After checking my monitor controller, I saw that I actually used 12k resistors, so that’s what I put on the schematic.

To answer your questions: no, this mono summing circuit would not provide true isolation between the stereo output pair and the mono output. And, it probably creates some amount of crosstalk in the stereo outputs. However, I only use that output for a mono speaker, so since I never have stereo speakers plugged in, crosstalk isn’t a concern.

The way the switching on my controller works, the output options are mechanically switched between, with a rotary switch (the one on the right):

As you can see, “mono” here is its own, switched output, not a “mono-fy” button for any stereo set of speakers. And indeed, this mono summing circuit (or any other purely passive summing circuit) would not be an ideal way to add a “mono” switch to a pair of speakers.

As for the volume drop on the mono out, that is going to depend on the input impedance of the amp it is plugged into. In my case, that’s a powered Avantone speaker. As this Gearslutz post on mono summing says, the Avantone probably has around a 10k input impedance. So 1k would make a better summing resistor value in general, but the Avantone has variable gain, and plenty of it, so although the 12k summing resistors reduce the level much more than 1k summing resistors would, it actually balances out better with my other monitors to feed the Avantone a reduced level signal. And I can use the volume knob on the back of the Avantone to level match between the mono speaker and the stereo pair in my studio.

Anyways, here’s the schematic. It assumes you are feeding it a balanced signal! (Hence the + and - inputs for both L and R sides.) The sleeve pin of the output jack may or may not be chassis grounded - in any case, the sleeve does NOT go to audio ground (remember the “pin 1 problem”)!

Sure thing. I can almost read the resistors’ color bands in the photo here (look at the rightmost audio jack, that the pair of purple wires are running to):

http://fishboytech.tumblr.com/post/48536308155/guts-of-the-custom-monitor-controller-100

I’d guess they are 10k resistors, but I could verify that later.

The mono signal is done as a simple passive summing of the stereo signals. The mono output is now done as a balanced signal, so you need 4 resistors total:

The + side of L and R each get summed through a 10k resistor to make the +mono signal;

The - side of L and R each get summed through a 10k resistor to make the -mono signal.

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