#mongoliandance

A few weeks ago, I celebrated my second Naadam in Mongolia. It was vastly different than my first Naadam and I think really highlights some of the changes that I’ve made in country. The night before Naadam started, instead of uncomfortably sitting with my host family, I went to the river with my awesome khashaa family.  There were rugs that needed to be washed and I lent a hand. Sambuu, Bolor-Erdene, and Bolor-Erdene’s brother drenched a rug with water from the river.  While my older duu played in the river with his friend, my younger duu jumped all over the rug (think puddle jumping) while we scrubbed it with laundry soap.  We rinsed off the rug with river water (but not in the river) and packed it back up in the car.  We then enjoyed a large bottle of Iced Tea by the river and watched the sun set. It was so nice and relaxing because I felt much more at ease.  There was no anxiety, no awkward communication, just inclusion and acceptance (and a good arm workout from the scrubbing haha).

Last year’s Naadam was SO HOT. This year’s Naadam was so cold! I wore my vest over a dress this year, but ended up pulling on a jacket. We left on time to get good seats (versus showing up late and Amina and I sitting on the stairs). When we got there, a lot of the faces in and around the stadium were familiar ones.  My students rode by on horses; I greeted fellow teachers and their families. Sambuu asked if my friends (the other PCVs) were coming and we saved them seats. After the opening ceremonies, we went and got food and I was able to walk around before heading back to my ger (Zavkhan’s Naadam is much more spread out than Selenge’s. The main event I had wanted to see, horse racing, was a 45-min drive away).  I picked up a few things at the delguur and was able to relax at home.  Not only did I feel much more integrated this Naadam, I also felt like I had the freedom to do what I wanted.  I didn’t have to leave with my family- we both did our own thing and caught up at the end of the day.  Independence is a beautiful thing.

Of course, there were still some similarities. I did eat all of the tasty huushuur (a fried meat pancake) again, but on my terms (with ketchup).  I drank milk tea while getting stared at by Mongolians (a foreigner!!) Although this time, I had Sambuu to giggle with :) I was unprepared for the weather, and left because I was too cold (versus last time being too hot. Maybe next year will be perfect... third time’s a charm?) 

Zavkhan’s Naadam was just as stunning as Selenge’s, if not more so.  I was able to see the 9 Flags of Mongolia brought in by traditionally-dressed Mongolian soldiers on horseback. The horses’ hair matched the hair on the flags- white/ blonde for times of peace.  Traditionally, in war time, the Mongolians would ride on black horses and change the hair on the pennants to black as well.  My CP Uuree’s husband was one of the 9 warriors (a very big honor).  I was also able to see a Tsam Dance performed. A Tsam Dance is a Mongolian Tibetan Buddhist dance, characterized by dancers wearing extremely large masks.  These masks are intricately decorated and depict  various holy figures and demons, animals and people.  Each dance tells a story- in the one that I watched, an old monk banishes demons. I wish I knew more about the tradition, but most of the Mongolians I asked didn’t know (and the internet oddly doesn’t have a lot of information on the dance). But my favorite part of the entire Naadam? It opened to the Star Wars main theme song.  Mongolians love using this song for important events (maybe George Lucas borrowed it from the Mongolians when he took all of Queen Amedala’s costumes?) This country is so rich in cultural history, but they totally aren’t afraid to use Star Wars music when the occasion calls for it.  I love it! PHOTOS

3 of the 9 Flags of Mongolia being brought in.

The 9 traditional Mongolian warriors hand the flags off to the modern Mongolian soldiers, who will place the flags in their holder on the right hand side of the picture.

Some VIPs watch the soldiers line up. 

All of the preschool children are led in a dance while the horse head fiddles are played.

The Tsam dance begins.

The Tsam Dance. 

刘福洋 蒙古舞【潇洒】