toronto fashion week: marie saint pierre
(images via lgfw)
it's always a bit surprising to me when some of the better-known fashion designers of a particular event (like dawid tomaszweski for his s/s 2012 show in berlin) opt to show in a presentation format in lieu of a runway exhibition.Ā are these labels in trouble fiscally?Ā or are they simply rebelling against the strictures of the increasingly ridiculous format we all salivate when conjuring (and yet rail against in our pages)? anyway, marie saint pierre of montreal (and whom we've lately see for s/s 2011 exhibiting in zagreb) was the latest to jump on this train with her s/s 2012 collection presented at toronto fashion week, and if i can say anything, it would only be that i hope this doesn't spell trouble, given how adept the designer is at producing lovely, if slightly dark, wares for the sophisticated lady in us all.Ā
shown on a combination of live models (there were a half-dozen or so) and the most basic blinding white mannequins one could buy (really, they radiated cheapness; one wonders if there was some 'recessionary times' commentary subtly shanking chanel for their recent fiasco-laden pre-fall 2012 extravaganza), fashion magazine explains that the designer staged the presentation as a tea party (the site the tea stylist has a rather detailed and actually quite interesting account of what was on offer), serving macaroons and allowing the warbling of paul martin and serge gainsbourg to fill the space.Ā the canadian site sweet life pointed out that all the models--live and fake--were sporting swim caps, in a twist i don't really understand, but anyway, to the clothes...
in an interview with filler magazine, when asked about her inspirations and motivation, the designer responded that "I am a woman so I juggle with all those sides of a woman where you actually needĀ some structured pieces, you need some great pieces, you need some easy pieces, allĀ still designed and still functional. Itās not easy to do, you can really become boringĀ when you do the functional pieces so I like to juggle those ideas and bring somethingĀ that is still designed and still very personal, but still has a good balance of design,Ā intelligence and function."Ā she wasn't particularly specific on the theme (in fact, i couldn't find one sited anywhere), so it seems that she was more addressing practical applications in a woman's wardrobe than adhering to any special creative flights.Ā
as for the collection's colours, fashion windows reports that "(o)n a main palette of beige white and black, the signature colrs [sic] of Marie Saint Pierre, she used accent of red, neon green and yellow to complete her delicate, yet very strong collection," while the designer's own website explained that the range materials included jersey, leather, cotton, silk, organza, voile, chiffon, and viscose.Ā these materials were then, said elle, "draped, gathered, layered and knotted into fluid, modern dresses," and rather complex ruffles, textured pieces, twisty neck accessories (were they necklaces?Ā scarves?Ā i couldn't really say) provided an intriguing balance to the otherwise stately and rather streamlined, fluid garments.Ā
elsewhere front row mag described the collection in terms of "Saint Pierreās signature layering and unique lines was played to its potential in an interactive environment...The sheer black dress with layers gathered to the collar stole our heart with its gender play. Some of the pieces gave off a futuristic vibe, including the cropped blazer with high-cut collar and the knotted rope neckpiece. The presentation allowed for plenty of opportunities to view the contrasting textures of Saint Pierreās monochromatic collection."Ā and real style network commented that "(s)lip on dresses made up the majority of the line, it was the precise details...that made each piece unique. Draped and ruffle details on sleeveless chiffon dresses expressed fluidity, while they still looked comfortable and light. Long fringe details hung or were wrapped at the neckline giving the dresses an air of haute couture by mimicking neckties and bibs. Jackets paired with leather tops and tight pants were edgy and original. They were all minimalistic with straight cuts creating a sleek silhouette."Ā
when i first came across the designer some years back (though i'll admit i haven't as closely followed her as some others), what endeared me to her work was the bit of edge--drama and perhaps something darker--that was at once juxtaposed with quieter elegance; a sort of nod, if you will, to the idea that there is something more beneath, but not much more than that.Ā and in these days where subtlety is so out-of-date, that looks pretty good.Ā to be sure, this turn, ms. st. pierre went a little sexier than i'd remembered her (sometimes to her benefit, sometimes a little too red carpet-y for the 'average' woman), but i still liked that much of the range could be worn comfortably through the days of one's life without appearing either costume-y or particularly drab.Ā Ā and it takes a special kind of designer to produce that.Ā i suppose this is what makes ms. st. pierre's work so interesting in the first place.Ā
