#marcocerrato

When we buy ready-to-wear, we accept the cut that was produced with no specific customer in mind. When we order made-to-measure, we expect the trousers to fit our size. But bespoke trousers are completely different. They are designed to fit your body, not your size. They are more comfortable and more stylish. They have a way of dropping down that elongates you.

Marco Cerrato belongs to the great Neapolitan tradition that stems from family ties. A third-generation tailor, Marco started out as a kid, in close proximity to his father who specialised in waistcoats. Tailoring techniques were passed on directly, handed down as a true experience. Which also accounts for Naples still being a hotbed of smart dressers.

Marco defines his house cut as “ice cream cone” trousers, describing the ample shape in the waist that tapers down elegantly for a nice fit that clings to the ankles.

I chose a Caccioppoli cavalry twill in mid- grey. It is the most versatile colour choice, as it can adapt to almost any jacket. It is my fabric of choice for winter as it is more hard-wearing than flannel. The measurements were taken during a trunk show in Paris in June and the first fitting occurred in August. The trousers were already comfortable and very precisely cut. The length, waist and thighs were then adjusted to be perfect. This is the necessary step towards producing a real bespoke piece and relies on the tailor’s eye and experience: the trousers change from all right to just perfect. This level of precision brings a special touch to your trousers as they suddenly become your favourite. The fabric is thick and drapes well; the waistband feels good, both light and supportive.

They have many interesting details. What with side-adjusters, pleats, turn-ups, change pockets, slanted pockets, there are many variations you can bring to trousers. Also, the money pocket is more accessible and more practical than most.

Granted, not everything is hand-finished and some details inside are less than perfect, but

Marco Cerrato’s eye is sharp and he gets the fit right. I was initially of two minds about the trousers: because of some approximate details inside, it dampened my enthusiasm, but then I realised that they were still my go-to trousers, which has to count for something.

I also noticed that I used that piece in combination with many jackets because it never felt over- or under-dressed but always adequately stylish. You could say those trousers are spectacularly sober, to use an oxymoron. As a matter of fact, the art of trouser-making is not about the fancy details — it’s rather the feeling of apposite perfection. And it’s something that is eventually visible in the perfect straight line of the fabric that drops without a glitch.

http://www.sartorialtrips.com/marco-cerrato

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