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Siem Reap, Cambodia 20th - 23rd June 2015 I LOVED Siem Reap from the moment we began cruising alongside the river after a six-hour bus journey ($11 from Phnom Penh). The place clearly has far more money that Phnom Penh and is certainly geared up for tourists, but tries to offer luxury Cambodian rather than pure Western. Perhaps its retention of tradition over commercialism is rooted in the people's profound pride of their cultural heritage and most famous landmarks: the Temples of Angkor. We hired e-scooters to get around rather than opting for the €15 day trip as we wanted to explore the temples on our own terms, and I'm glad we did this. We headed straight to Angkor Wat first - a nono; if you want to appreciate the others, see the main event last - because we were told that the sunset was best there. After clambering over ancient ruins and taking in every view we could angle ourselves for, we took a seat amongst the congregation that had formed by the lake that sits to the front left of Angkor Wat as you look at it. Despite getting hassled by numerous children for "one dollllllarrr" postcards (mainly because we bought some straight away, hence we were seen as an easy target), it was a peaceful spot. We waited for the sun to fall behind us and to be presented with an awe-inspiring red and pink reflection of the temple in the lily pond... Unfortunately we were disappointed. The guard began chucking us out before the sun had set, so how you can watch it in the summer, I have no idea! And, because of the clouds that have been plaguing us, the sunset only served to make it more gloomy rather than reflecting brilliance across the lake. I saw some fantastic photos taken by a fellow traveller who had gone the day before so luck can prevail sometimes.  It was the same situation for sunrise - underwhelming - however, nothing can beat sitting on ancient ruins atop a huge hill overlooking Angkor at Phnom Bakheng (which took 15 minutes to race up in time) while the animals croak and wheeze and buzz to life in the dimmed forest. Again, the sun hardly peeked out of the clouds in the morning so we didn't get the stunning colours expected. Yet I don't regret getting up at 4am to zip past monkeys and see the forest in a completely different light. If you go to Siem Reap, a sunrise visit to Angkor is an absolute must, regardless of the weather.  Pub Street and the Night Markets are essential too; the excitement that blankets the city here after 8pm is unbeatable. I never realised bartering could be so fun: the best trick is to say your price and, if you don't get it, walk away. Either, they will shout your price in agreement after you, or you can go to another stall selling the exact same thing with a better idea of how low you can go. Sitting outside Angkor What? Bar was a treat: a Cambodian street seller, no older than 14 and deserving of being in a Missy Elliot video, began a dance off with a tourist which quickly amassed to a 50-strong circle of wannabe dancers attempting to top her sharp rhythm (none managed to).  Le Tigre de Papier, which runs Khmer cooking classes and supports the country's street children, is another treat for dinner in a perfect spot to people watch. I had Cambodian barbecue crocodile - white meat, like a very meaty fish - and Matt had ostrich - akin to venison. It was expensive but worth it for the unusual dishes. We tried Haven, a restaurant with a similar ecotourism conscience, but it was fully booked, so make sure you call ahead there. The Hive and Joe To Go are perfect if you need to boost your energy levels - The Hive offers delicious detox juices - and a fix of home food. Funky surroundings - particularly at Joe To Go, which features local art on the walls - reflect the fresh, modern food on offer. The Hive's chicken mango salad and Joe To Go's glass noodle tofu salad were the perfect immune-boosting brunch without having to risk new eats. Next: Siem Reap to Battambang

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