âMaking Exhibition-Quality Prints: Tips from a Printerâ
Shamus ClisÂset: It depends on whether theyâre shootÂing digÂiÂtal or shootÂing film. In both cases, the best thing is to get a really good scan or a really good capÂture. You canât make a good print from a bad scan or a bad capture.
We still vastly preÂfer workÂing from film. GetÂting a good drum scan gives you the qualÂity to blow up an image to any size and thereâs nothÂing in digÂiÂtal that comÂpares to it, unless youâre going to spend $35,000 on the huge digÂiÂtal backs. Even in that case, Iâve done work with a phoÂtogÂraÂpher who was using the 80 megapixel Leaf, and we mixed 4x5 negÂaÂtives and the digÂiÂtal images he had shot. The sharpÂness is pretty comÂpaÂraÂble, but youâre limÂited. The look of digÂiÂtal doesnât comÂpare to film. I know that digÂiÂtal is so popÂuÂlar, and weâre dealÂing with that more and more. PeoÂple are bringÂing us all kinds of digÂiÂtal files, and the qualÂity of the files is all over the place.
PDN: Is that due to the techÂnolÂogy, or the photographers?
SC: An image looks great on the screen or on their web site small, then they come to us and they donât realÂize itâs only really big enough to do maybe an 8x10-inch print of decent qualÂity or maybe a 20x30. Even [with] the Canon 5D Mark II which everyÂbody has nowaÂdays and weâre getÂting a lot of files from, the biggest print that Iâve done from one of those that I think looked decent is a 30 x40 inch print. Even then youâre res-ing up by 30 or 50 perÂcent, dependÂing on what their camÂera setÂtings were. So weâre havÂing to work to keep the qualÂity and integrity of the file, by adjustÂing the texÂture to make it comÂpaÂraÂble to someÂthing film-like.
Whereas with film, even if you shoot 35 mm, we can do huge 60 x 72-inch prints that look great. You see grain, but [the prints] have that phoÂtoÂgraphic integrity.
When shootÂing digÂiÂtal, itâs very cruÂcial that phoÂtogÂraÂphers shoot RAW. That should be a given, but peoÂple bring us JPEGs or someÂtimes TIFF files. With RAW, you can go back and adjust your setÂtings to get the file to a betÂter startÂing point. When you shoot RAW, thereâs a deeper bit depth. Youâre capÂturÂing more of the expoÂsure, so you can recover highÂlight detail, you can recover shadow detail, you can shift up or down the expoÂsure range. Then you import it into PhoÂtoÂshop and you have a betÂter startÂing point.
Weâre espeÂcially geeky about this part of it because we do big exhiÂbiÂtion prints. If youâre doing a book and your picÂture is never going to be bigÂger than that, digÂiÂtal works fine.
The most comÂmonly asked quesÂtion we get nowaÂdays is: âIf I show you my file, how big do you think we can print it?â They donât know the resÂoÂluÂtion. I would recÂomÂmend peoÂple find out what the full senÂsor capacÂity is in pixÂels, and then divide that by 200 dpi. Thatâs what your print size is usually.
For examÂple we recently made some really nice prints from a 5D Mark II. The full native resÂoÂluÂtion on the long side (5661 pixÂels) transÂlates to about 28âł at 200 dpi. Thatâs a 21-megapixel capÂture. We printed them at 30 x 40 so we bumped it up about 30 perÂcent. They looked great, but as you go larger and you are interÂpoÂlatÂing in PhoÂtoÂshop, youâre losÂing sharpness.
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