#kpkn

Jingle dari Lanting Animation untuk KPKN Cerdik! Gubahan Zaenal Abidin dan dinyanyikan oleh Anggi.

Lirik:

Cek rutin kesehatan

Enyahkan asap rokok

Rajin olahraga (Hey! Hey! Hey!)

Diet seimbang

Istirahat cukup

Kelola stress

Yes of course!

When we made our skyrim armor, we used Liquitex brand white gesso, which I thought worked quite well. Depending on how much worbla you are planning to cover in gesso, you might have to buy a quite a bit of gesso.

For reference: we made two full sets of armor (breastplate, shinguards, pauldrons, forearm covers, hip guards, shoe covers)

For two full sets of armor, we went through about 2.5 gallons of gesso.

So to start, I would not suggest using a gesso brush, as tempting as it might be. I actually found that using an acrylic brush with synthetic smooth bristles (small for nooks and crannies and large for covering large areas--just buy one of these--oh look! sale!) was the most effective, because the gesso was applied in the smoothest way and required the least sanding (which I’ll get to later).

Depending on how smooth your worbla is (we had a couple dents in some of our curved pieces due to over stretching, etc.) and how smooth you want the finished piece to be, you might need to cover your pieces with more coats.

Each of our pieces needed at least 5-6 coats of gesso to get the level of smoothness and correction for dents that we desired. Make sure to let each layer of gesso dry completely before you coat it again.

After you have coated each piece enough, use a kitchen sponge (the kind with a soft side on one side and a scrubby side on the other) and dampen it. Use the scrubby side and just scrub away. It should act to smooth out the gesso. For tougher parts, spritz the area and use a fine sandpaper to polish the piece. Let the piece dry, and then use a dry brush to brush off the pieces so you can evaluate how much more sanding is required. Then prime, and paint!

I don’t have a TON of tutorials, but if you search KPKN, I’ve tagged my cosplay tip-related posts with KPKN.

I hope this wasn’t too too long-winded, and that it was helpful!

Bow, post paper mache.

Tips for paper mache-ing props:

For the adhesive, I used a mix of flour and water. I put some flour in a bowl, and then slowly added water to my desired consistency. You can basically do whatever consistency you want, from pancake batter to something more watery. I chose something between those two, because I wanted a lot of adhesion and I wanted it to dry quickly.

Note that you need to wait for each layer to dry COMPLETELY before adding another, and you need to wait for the paper mache to dry completely before any gesso or paint is applied. If you do not do this, your prop will start to grow mold and rot from the inside out.

To further prevent mold growth in your paper mache, you can add a tablespoon or two of salt to your liquid adhesive mix.

After the paper mache is completely dry, gesso the entire prop and let it dry (do this for a few layers), and then rub it with a damp sponge to smooth it out.