#jasmineway

My friend and I caught wind of an early special over at the one-star Pasjoli down on Santa Monica's Main Street, and we decided to escape the existential dread with a light, lovely meal that was the perfect pause to the heaviness.

Course 1: ravioli

fromage blanc, fried maitake, fennel

I don't know how they packed so much flavor into such a small bite (and believe me, it was a small bite), but this 3-by-3 wafer-think pillow of ravioli before me had the same umami / rich satisfaction of a full cheese plate in 4 bites. Not a single element was redundant - every bite contributed a necessary element to making it taste to good (yes, even the foam - texture matters, and a dollop of ricotta would have broken the airy-dense oxymoron). Tiny, but delicious.

Course 2: parisian gnocchi

butternut squash, caramelized fennel, pomegranate, apple cider beurre monté

This may have been the greatest gnocci I have ever had in my life. The crisp edges, the fluffy core, the outstanding sauce, perfectly showcased by fresh crimson pomegranate and candied greens--all spectacular. My dining companion picked this plate, but we shared both mains. A true, rare, 9/10.

Course 2: steak (supplement)

6oz hanger, sauce au poivre, potato pavé

As a steak connoisseur, the texture was not my favorite for this one, as it felt more like a roast and needed to much cut to win the seal of approval. That being said, the flavors were excellent, and the potato pave was superb - crisp, fluffy, and embedded in sauce without getting gooey.

Course 3: soufflé (supplement)

70% valrhona chocolate, vanilla ice cream, candied almonds

I spend an inordinate amount of time trying to find good souffle. And I mean real souffle, not lava cake called souffle, not mousse posing as souffle, not any of the many, many desserts many menus will accuse of being souffle and end up serving an imposter. Pasjoli had a real souffle. The flavor was rich, the ice cream complemented well, the rise was modest which made sense given the still liquid (but thankfully minimally liquid) heart inside.

Souffle is one of the few desserts I prefer 'out' than baked at home due to my recognition of just how hard it is to get the texture just right, so this is not a dig at the chef (the souffle was delicious!) but--my search continues.

Final Thoughts

At one Michelin star, with the flavors and execution to warrant it, Pasjoli was an excellent choice for a fun evening with a little bit of 'treat-yourself' with a friend. I reccomend the early menu as a half-meal in between a more robust lunch and dinner, as I did leave hungry, but that was I think by design given the missed two courses by picking the express (as a not-salad person, I didn't see much benefit to doing the full menu).

Until next time!

So many good ideas, executed with precision... yet not necessarily executed well.

I want to premise that I wanted to love this restaurant. As a longtime Valley once-local, Pasta Bar was an aspirational goal for me years before I finally made it through the door. It was advertised as a Pasta version of Scratch | Bar. As someone who loves fine dining and pasta (but rarely gets the latter at the former) this was exciting, a way to enjoy my two loves.

What I will say is there a very big difference between the Pasta Bar experience, and even the Pasta Bar presentation... and the actual cohesiveness of the food. I had a good time... I had a great show... I had amazing bread... the meal itself, though?

Hmm.

Much like a splenectomy that somehow resects the liver... the greatest preparation skills mean little if the materials used are not ideal for what's necessary.

Arrival

You'll find the restaurant via a subtle plaque on frosted glass on teh second floor of an unsuspecting shopping complex, in a quiet corner in Encino.

Welcome

You are let in to a small holding area, in a bar that overlooks a prep kitchen quarantined from the actual 'dining room' / chef's counter. We were each offered a welcome cocktail and three amuse bouches, my favorite of which made reality the 'cube food' fantasy of early 2000s infographics.

Main Dining

After our brief foray into the tasters with some of our many chefs hosting us that night, we were shown to our seats in the main dining room, all lined shoulder to shoulder with fancily dressed neighbors and circled around the kitchen.

Martha's Sourdough cultured butter

I will say it may have been a mistake to start with bread, because this bread was so good it may have ruined half the meal for me (spoiler, it was not). Each pair gets one loaf, and there's no room for seconds as they make them all right before dinner service so god help you if you breeze through it too fast and crave more.

Salad wagyu, herbs, ponzu

I ate every bite of every plate served to me this evening, but even my plant-loving friend could admit this was a creative take on 'salad.' It kind of looked like a salad, if a bloody mary decided to become savory. It was fine, but was much more beautifully plated than it was gracefully edible or flavored.

Crudo pistachio, calamansi, caviar

I was given a tuna alternative, and whatever I ate was delightful. Ignoring the mild tryptanophobia from the sauce decorations, it was light, fresh, and clean-tasting.

Raviolo king crab, macadamia, tom kha

This was our first 'pasta' dish in the evening, and the first sign that I may have misinterpreted the restaurant's namesake. There was a Bar, yes... Pasta, yes... but Pasta, singular. This would become a theme.

Side note: most everything looked beautiful, but I am not sure if I was feeling the crab-with-macadamia-with-no-sauce in a ravioli over here.

This would be a recurring theme--everything cooked to perfection and absolutely beautiful, but I'm not sure I actually liked many of the plates.

Cavatelli mole, secreto, poblano

Another beautiful, vibrant, flavorful, lovingly assembled... pile of interesting. It looked great. It tasted vaguely spicy. I don't dislike mole. I was not expecting the petals to be crunchy. Not unpleasant, but it did seem more apt for Meteora than 14 courses of theoretically pasta. Disappointingly, no pasta (another recurring theme).

Cappelliti mushroom, dashi, escarole

Okay, plural pasta, finally making an entrance. This dish was beautiful. It tasted okay. It felt like a sharp disconnect from the previous plate, which took me out of the experience. Despite my classic mocktail request, palette cleansers were strongly needed between the bold but somewhat incongruous creations presented.

Tagliolini truffle, uni, brioche

This was spectacular. I hate uni, and even without the uni, this was great. My server only told me after serving it (to me and my fish-allergic friend) that the uni alternative is far better than even the uni. Why not lead with that fact and offer it, or just not mention it unless brought up? Dish hurt slightly by fomo. I did eat minimal uni.

Striped Bass zucchini, tomato, coconut

This was a fish... wrapped in a blanket... made of vegetables. It was very pretty. It tasted better- than-okay. That's all I have to share about it.

Lamb cherry, cipollini, merguez, truffle

This was considered a pasta dish. A pasta dish! Yes, those microscopic beet-shaded accents indeed, were considered to constitute a pasta! What are they doing. It was so beautiful, the artistry in the plating was there... but the tastes and ability to spear the full experience into one bite on a fork was just, not. I overall enjoyed this one, but wished I hadn't had to chase it around (and lift my plate to angle the contents for leverage) to consume it.

Bone Marrow black currant, raspberry

Bone marrow... she tends to like that one, you may be thinking. Except, I don't know if I've ever had bone marrow served as a dessert. Firstly, even as a person used to bones and internals, this was too visceral for me (scooping it out of the bone did not help). Second, ice cold, the gelatinous undertones take on a less pleasant mouthfeel. Thirdly, whatever ice-cream/raspberry/mousse emulsion this thing was whipped into tasted vaguely of toothpaste and was not doing it for me. 1/10, truly.

Gelato geranium, strawberry, pink peppercorn

This one, praise be, was fine. The peppercorn was an odd but non-obtrusive choice. Strawberries were a delight to dig into. The color palette was the same as the last dessert, but it's amazing how much 'not making you feel like you're scooping out someone's dismembered limb' does for a tasting experience.

Caviar brown butter brioche, smoked banana

Okay, we're going from cold-goop-with-berry-fruits to... salty caviar. Once again, a flow that's confusing. My family would be delighted to spot the cameo of Michael Aram, and hearing the ingredients read out to me I could see a bananas-flambe inspiration to look forward to.

Unfortunately, it was another cold ice-cream-style thing, which didn't taste bad, but personally, I didn't think the caviar went well with the sandwiches at all.

Menu in Summary

Perhaps its my adamant commitment to avoiding spoilers, or my overall less varied palette than some of the cutting edge choices in the kitchen, but, unlike a lot of fine dining, I truly don't think you'll still enjoy your food if you are not a very adventurous eater. From what I've heard from friends who have been several times, I think this particular evening was more of a Scratch | Bar rather than Pasta | Bar menu. And that matters when you're advertising the latter.

Overall Impressions

Every chef was very nice, every host was gracious, every plate plated beautifully, every drink served neat. Honestly, there's a lot to love about this place, and I genuinely enjoyed my time interacting with the chefs and other diners. However, at the price point it's at, I think the food was just... not bad, but, not for me. At least not at this time.

Every now and then, you have to go for the Instagram pick. Especially when one of your friends invites you to said pick for your birthday. I previously had a near-meal here for Sofia's birthday, but because they wouldn't allow me to get a steak menu due to allergies if the rest of the party ordered sushi, I'd missed that evening (she and I would come back later for this experience... more on that later).

Arrival

Valet is outside on the busy DTLA street, so you will cross a good number of stairs and a modern fountain on your way up the steps to the Intercontinental Hotel. The restaurant is just tucked away on the second floor off the lobby, but you'll find it via a cool mosaic that just as much screams subway tile as it does vintage mosaic.

The Menu

There are no choices to select from, as the Yakiniku menu is pretty much prix fixe. I did get one swap self-selected by my server, a clean dressed gentleman in a full 3 piece suit (yes, everyone on staff seems impeccably dressed even when cooking).

I didn't pay too close attention to their beverage menu, but the cocktails hit solidly for Tony and I quite enjoyed my zero-proof Yuzu whatever I had.

First came our amuse bouche. I wish I could remember what this was, but these photos were lost to time for a solid year and a half before a harddrive recovery brought them back. It was rich and had notes of miso.

In replacement of a certain deadly ingredient, I was offered a 'bone marrow appetizer,' something I expected to be a small mallowy slice to eat with a creative interpretation of carb. Instead, I was brought out what looked like a brontosaurus bone, that immediately proceeded to become flambe'd.

Tony, my dining partner in crime and eager dining companion, was very excited when they started plating accoutrements.

Course One:

Accoutrements, aka, The Five

The Five: Wheat / Almond / Rice / Corn / Barley / Corn Potage / Wagyu Tallow Popcorn

Course Two:

Raw Tuna for Tony, Brontosaurus for Jazz (no I'm not over it)

Sashimi and Tartare: A5 Hyogo Tenderloin / Half Moon Bay Wasabi / A5 Miyazaki Rib Cap

Brontosaurus bone on milk bread... lives rent free in my dreams.

The Grill - Yakiniku

Yakiniku / Grill Pichuberry / Sunomono / Cornichons / Burdock

The menu doesn't really make a ton of sense to me from a flow or organization standpoint, so I'll list the types of Wagyu our chef then came to cook in front of us, JBBQ style:

Charcoal Grilled Vegetable Sesame / Miso / Tomato / Sweet Pepper / Squashini

Masami Ranch Beef Tongue Shio Kombu / Meyer Lemon

Stone Axe Chuck Rib Ume Chimichurri Marinade

A5 Toriyama Top Blade (Misuji) Asian Pear / Yakiniku / Jidori Egg Yolk

The Reveal

They had real artistry to revealing the wagyu, which I can summarize with this photo... it was dreamy, and this picture has not been edited.

Everything was cooked to perfection, which is really important, because on a future visit, things were not, and it killed the experience (tl;dr our chef that visit was inexperienced and unintentionally unprofessional. They also did not let me order said giant bone marrow a la carte, despite specifically citing it when I made the reservation, explaining it's gatekept behind a fancy sharable Tomahawk menu which... why have it on the a la carte options at all then? Sof also got an upset stomach that night so truly your chef matters).

There was also two bonus meats after The Reveal, which included:

Masami Ranch Striploin Strawberry Sukiyaki Shiso Leaf / Chives / Lavender Radish / Currant

A5 Toriyama Chuck Roll Sabayon Jidori Egg Yolk / Summer Truffle / Charcoal Grilled Onigiri

Closer:

Chilled Somen Dragon Fruit / Shimeji

Sorbet

Overall, this evening (with Tony) was spectacular. It was definitely a bit overhyped, and we were made to wait a good 20m past our reservation time despite arriving early, but for the price-to-taste-x-quality it was a really good match the first go around about ~$150 a person. The latter visit when little things compounded was not as convincing, but I do feel everyone meant well (I just can't help but wonder if attending with a known local foodie vs. coming to treat my own friend, despite running similar tabs, had anything to do with the latter experience).

I'd say, if you can field the cost, it's worth giving a shot. I believe in the team making a good experience. However, if it's a special occasion and this is a big splurge, maybe save it for somewhere with more consistency. There's a lot to be said for style, of which here has plenty--but their logistics needs a little work before it's a smooth sailing reccomendation.

A photo story, with minimal comments. This was after the rebranding from white-linened old-guard into the 5-table private dining room adjoined to the kitchen it is now. There was a man whose task was to change vinyl every course. A sommelier. A dozen chefs and servers. And despite electing for a mocktail pairing (a mistake, too much sugar, trust me), an opening beverage made with such a hidden, heavy pour that it legitimately made us both unwell. This is the story of Melisse, 2023.

Course 1: Caviar and Hamachi "Tartart" Salmon, Seaweed & Sake "Vichyssoise" Tart Thirty-Month Comte Gougeres

Course 2: Summer Beans, Apricots, Almond, Mustard Sawara, Rhubarb Condiment, Nettles, Hay Corn Custard, Coconut, Corndipa

Course 3: Santa Barbara Uni Cromesquis Fermented Bergamot Honey

Course 4: Royal Osetra Caviar "Deviled Egg" Whipped Onion, Meyer Lemon

Course 5: Mushroom Broth, Girolles, Pine Milkbread, Hot Honey, Blossom Butter

Course 6: Red Bream & Scallop "Farci" Vin Jaune, Artichoke Barigoule

Course 7: Kagoshima A5 Wagyu Beef Morel, Ramp Mustard

Course 8: Liberty Farm's Duck "ROuennaise" Cherry Condiment

Course 9: Cherry and Creamed Rice Tart, White Chocolate, Kirsch Cherry Sorbet

Course 10: "Strawberries and Cream" "PB & J" Mango and Passionfruit Pate du Fruit Chartruse Gummies

Supplements: + Black Truffle Supplement + 0-Proof Pairing

Zero-Proof Beverages:

Cucumber, Orange Meyer Lemon & Yuzu

Strawberry Kombucha

Raspberry, Lime Agave & Grapefruit

Pomegranate, Pumpkin Pineapple & Angostura

Pineapple, Lemon Grenadine & Root Beer

Overall Impression:

The service was spectacular, and the meal would have been really special for the right audience. The hybrid between a Chef's Counter and Fine Dining Room experience suffered from not fully committing to either, but also added an elevation and intimacy to a meal best enjoyed by a more eclectic and bold diner than my friend and I.

Honestly, the accidental mutual wrecking via welcome cocktail marred much of the experience, especially since my friend is far from a lightweight. Our poor choice to get a mocktail filled our bellies with sweetness and volume that precluded much of the meal. It seems, upon reflection, much of my complaints were at the ends of beverages, so perhaps the solution is just to avoid them altogether.

My friend took me out for an occasion dinner, so we merged my love of bougie for his love of cooking and landed on Meteora, the mid-city offering from Jordan Kahn.

Vespertine has been on my fine dining list for years now, but COVID and controversy preceded that opportunity at the time. Thankfully for us, this more casual offering spared no expense in "vibes" and answered the question, "what if I were a genie in a lamp but the lamp was the embodiment of the fancy indoor plant annex of Anthropologie Century City?"

You will forget you're in LA for this one.

Why yes, that is a hole in the ceiling and you will enjoy vaguely vacationing-in-Morrocco-but-not-so-non-touristy-Morocco-that-there's-no-bougie-retreats energy throughout the meal.

Texture and Serveware:

r/wewantplates is a medium on this one. Our utensils were hand carved, light and on theme. Our menu was unpleasant to touch, but you'll only need it for a moment as the meal progresses at a steady pace after a few brief selections. A lot of things are earthenware, or earthling ware, as you're asked to eat it with your hand. It fits the aesthetic and we knew what we signed up for.

Course 1: Crudo of Wild Pacific Moonfish

"red maradol papaya, smoked oil, tomato seeds, ash tibuok"

Ah yes, fresh raw fish as deconstructed sushi. Except, the rice is popped into an organically-shaped rice cake. I found it a bit difficult to place using my wooden utensils but enjoyed the flavor textures and crunch.

Course 2: Sun Gold Tomatoes

"smoked almond cream, boiled peanuts, grilled shelling beans, gooseberries"

I'm not going to lie to you--there was a couple times during this meal where we thought "this tastes fine, but did it need these specific things all together?" The answer was often, possibly no. Was it what was advertised? Yes. Was it something groundbreaking? Debatable. Were we still having a delightful experience living as a plant hanging in a tropical yet unhumid paradise? Yes.

Course 3: "Risotto" of Job's Tears

"caramelized lettuce, aged sheep's milk cheese, macambo beans, serrano chili"

Don't get me wrong, I'm usually one to delight in the revenge of serving your enemy's tears in both metaphorical, or what I hoped for this case literal form, but that anticipation is almost equally quelled anytime quotes are used around an expected key component.

This dish, while tasty, came with two disappointments, neither of which was its own fault, itself. Firstly, Job's tears is an herb, and not, in fact, a seasoning made from the despair of Chef Jordan's naysayers. The second, was that "risotto" in this case was in fact Foam, the most cliche of fine dining states of matter.

It was crunchy foam, and tasty--but you would be better served with the economical alternative of the toffee topping on a Starbucks caramel latte. It will be the same functional mouthfeel.

Course 4: Beef Ribeye

"runner beans, smoked rhubarb sambal, tamarind"

This supplement was a strange one. Firstly, that regular beef was a supplement against an otherwise pork option, secondly, that your options were "Aged Dairy Cow - $35" or "Grass-Fed Wagyu - $60." I am all for minimizing waste in dining, but surely a dairy cow would be better purposed braised or in a dish slow-cooked rather than served as a "steak" against Actual Wagyu (though surely, without a listed grade, this will likely be an American or Australian Wagyu hybrid). Just offer prime and call it a day - I had chosen the dairy cow and the quality was not deserving of its place on the menu in line with my suspicions. Frankly, such stark contrast in the given options insults the diner.

Jason got the Acorn Fed Pork ("library of peppers, spiced prunes") and in all honestly both mains were interestingly served and unable to be consumed very easily with the tableware at hand.

Course 5: Rio Acara Wild Cacao

"amazon cacao 'cake,' light cucumber cream, fig leaf, jungle peanuts"

Why a meal needs two unavoidable servings of peanuts may be more of a meta commentary on the survival-of-the-fittest jungle-adventure Jumanji theming in here than a culinary necessity, but thankfully, both servings were inoffensive. This chocolate (just chocolate, not cake OR foam this time) was some of the most exceptionally rich yet bitter naturally-harvested cocoa I've ever tasted. It was the standout in an otherwise particular-yet-enjoyable meal. A reward for open minds and appetites.

Closer:

Finally, I was served a honeydew. Not a whole honeydew, just a single slice; that slice was cut in half and topped with seasoning for myself and my friend. It was served on ice and indeed you are to use your fingers despite cutlery and napkins having been cleared already.

It was made up for with the chance to meet Chef Jordan itself who was a welcoming host in an otherwise chaotic kitchen.

Overall Gist:

I'm not going to lie to you, the food here was 'weird,' or at least weird in a hipster/experimental dining sort of way vs. what you'd normally expect from high level dining. Our service was good but not exceptional, and there's a certain casualness to the serving that can't fully be written away by the ambiance and theme alone. It's good, great even, but not sufficiently at the level to overcome the combined benefit of novelty in favor of a revisit. Accept my bias in my own preferences and proceed accordingly. This is overall a nice Meal and a delightful Themed Experience but beyond the double-hitter, may not be on regular rotation.

This is my favorite restaurant in LA, and quite possibly my favorite restaurant to revisit. As such, I will spare you the prose, and leave with you the visual story, indulged as part two of an unbelievably thoughtful present commemorating my graduation.

Ambiance:

Providence is an understated, yet richly luxurious dining experience. You will not find mahogany. The space is a modern LA bungalow, easily missed if not for a subtle entryway around the block from valet. While the team will be dressed Formal you can expect diners ranging from elegance to leisurewear, yet no ones experience is dampened in the slightest as the service gives the space and ease to match the diners' energy.

They recently reopened after a refresh that just as much gives "modern art aquarium" as it does "Incredibles-Metal-Balloon-Escape-Sequence," and yet it incredibly works, and avoids the easily overtly-brutalist concrete box feeling.

Teal velvet cradles the diners back with a marine respite from the minimalist tones. The lighting is not the easiest on people's faces for photography, but absolutely perfect for filtering the room.

Supplements:

They have wine pairings, A5, and truffle options.

We opted to skip the truffle, mainly due to a personal sense that truffle is frankly overused in fine dining. I should say, it has been over-represented to my palette. Certainly, this is because if you like truffle, you Like truffle—and want to indulge.

My feelings on it is that truffles are very much like Thor — he works best as a character that is sprinkled into his movies, timed right for maximum impact (Ragnarok was certainly a Hela movie). Too much, and it becomes overwhelming. I want movies featuring Thor, and dishes featuring truffle.

All too often you get All Truffle and then it overpowers the dish it is showcased in. I have had one too many Truffle-featuring pastas that obliterated the other flavors.

Pre-Seating Mocktail: my favorite, cranberry mint bubbly

Amuse Bouche: miscellaneous delicious things

I'm going to defer to my post on Jeune et Jolie // 3-30-2024 for my thoughts on fine dining's obsession withthe casual-snack-but-gourmet opener, but 'cheez it' aside the meal kicked off with art at no less a standard that I've come to know and love. The honeycombing, the perfect petals, and the unironically-delivered spritz of flavor a la vintage perfume bottle are all you need to see to know what kind of evening you are in for.

Course 1: One Potato, Two Potato

"golden kaluga caviar, garden herbs"

Resisting harping on the eternal Alina callback, this was respite; we were permitted to enjoy however we liked, and it was delicious.

Course 2: Shima Aji*

"armenian cucumber, basil from our garden"

My dining companion reports this was delicious. I however, was not in the mood to flirt with mortal peril, and thus was met mysteriously by a large pan of crystals that would soon be revealed to be incredibly hot salt in which fresh prawns were currently being cooked (though I pray, not alive).

While I don't love eating a thing while its face looks up at me (a commonality, I suspect, with my pescatarian colleague), I accept this meta commentary of my role in the food chain as a small price for the wild luxury of having a man in suit prepare a special dish tableside.

Course 3: Uni

"white asparagus, salted egg yolk"

I hate uni. It always feels like a human tongue. I liked this uni.

Course 3.5: Bread Course

Ah, red fife sourdough. Where would we be without a mission-driven carbohydrate resurrected through love and investment in local grains.

Course 4: Halibut

"clam bouillon, grilled fava bean"

Providence is known for their seafood and not one plate let us down. I particularly loved the diningware, which thankfully was heavy in the use of Actual Plates and also came with utensil holders that tickled our table. I love the design choices here - rather than Pollack with sauces, the food is served clean, while decorative elements baked into stone look painted with the ocean itself.

Course 5: Santa Barbara Vermilion Rockfish

"morel, sorrel, miner's lettuce"

Crisp. Light. No notes.

Course 6: A5 Wagyu

"charred eggplant, spring garlic confit, jus de boeuf"

I stand by the controversial opinion that the best* wagyu I have ever had was at Providence, a seafood restaurant of all places. This remains true even with 2023. Unlike many places who make wagyu a hyperbole, mixed into ground meats or flavored into nothing, the chefs here take care to allow the standout sear to remain the star, served with merely accents in a constellation of flavors. My far my favorite part of the meal despite not a single poor serving preceding it.

*best tied with the larger portion I ordered at Cut Beverly Hills, where my server, coincidentally a former Providence host, informed me that they curate the same cut of beef from the exact same supplier

Course 7: Desserts

peach, almond, shiso was served with house-made hawaiian dark chocolate (coconut, indonesian long pepper) and I'd elected for a light tea as we made our way through the additional plate of petit-fours. The artistry in the chocolate course was magnificent, and I counted at least five preparations in that one plate alone.

Overall Impression:

I have no hesitation; this is my favorite LA restaurant. I come anytime I can. I suggest you do too, even if you are not at heart a seafood lover.

Fine dining does not always mean you have to be a rich person. I am rich... in friendships, in opportunities, and in appetite for heavy meals that would ground even the most experienced eaters to the chair for days. This being said, our most recent excursion was at a place much more accessible than its flashier neighbor Addison, yet with no reduction in fun or deliciousness.

My friend Sofia has decided she still loves me even when I am no longer... roll credits as Lana swells in the background and thus took me out for a belated birthday celebration at our former namesake (the latter of which shall remain true).

Our day started with a frolic through the Carlsbad flower fields before we made our way a few minutes down to Jeune et Jolie. My stunning dining companion glowed as much as the streets and flowers did, sparkling in dew:

This dining room is not the hooded intimacy of large white-linened tables and acoustic engineering to help carry a conversation in muted tones. Instead, we stepped into a vibrant Wes Anderson kitchen in which ever table was a member of the dining nook partaking in a rapport with the staff and chefs:

While our server had to creatively place a few items once drinks and bread found their way to the landscape, it didn't feel cluttered and I definitely felt like the main character about to embark on a charming yet shenanigan-filled adventure.

(yes, we dressed to match the colorscheme).

Drinks:

While I indulged in a pomegranite-mint conconction as my mocktail for the evening, Sofia's French 75 and later espresso martini were prepared exquisitely and served generous pours without feeling heavy-handed. Both of us were welcomed with bubbly that was light and lovely, but whose name I forgot to ask for.

Plating and Ambiance:

This is an elegant, yet exceedingly relaxed dining experience. Colorful stoneware rejects bone china for fun, accented pops against courses that were artistic but determinedly fun to both look at and eat. No one spent 14 hours piping cream on a plate, but no one wants them to - the 'chaos' is controlled and delicious with every bite. We had fun with our server, and each other, as the kitchen sounds and loud call outs peppered our meal.

Pre-Course - Oyster Tasting:

I will admit I am not a fan of oysters, and this tasting did not change that opinion. The enjoyer of said seafood reported high marks on the sampler we got, which included a pair of three varieties displayed beautifully.

Course 0: Amuse Bouche

In an absolutely shocking turn we were welcomed with yet another elevated take of a modern childhood snack. I am not sure why the great chefs feel obligated to humble themselves prior to what will certainly be a spectacle of a meal, as if saying "don't worry, we will open with gourmet cheese-it!" would ease the taster into overlooking the overt pretension such meals entail.

I am extra; I understand this dining experience is Not Normal. It is okay to do something over the top and silly for fun, not that this particular gourmet-commoner-food was anything but delicious.

Course 1: Poireau

"leek, caviar, potato, egg yolk"

Longtime readers know my love of potato in any and all forms and this opener was nothing short of delightful and exciting take on what I was cautious would be a salad in disguise.

I cannot overstate the creaminess, which managed to maintain a fluffy texture despite my repeated playing with my plate trying to optimize portions of every tasty component into each forkful. It was delicious all the way through, and just the right opening before the rest of the courses.

Sofia got the Tartare ("veal tartare, radish, white soy, nori") and despite my general avoidance of Land Poke the bite I did have was delicious.

Course 1.5: Bread

The bread ball we were served was not just bread. A far cry from ancient grains carefully nurtured into sourdough by artisanal bakers, the bread course instead hailed from Japan, as a light and fluffy milk bread, coated in Everything-Bagel, and served with herbed butter.

I could have eaten ten of these with no regrets. I was given one. The sole regret was that their future bakery was not yet open for me to take a sleeve home.

Course 2: Saint Jacques

"scallop, king trumpet, green grape, sake, spruce"

I love scallops, and it is easy for one to be too dry or too chewy or too laden in flavorings to showcase the scallop itself. Usually, less is more. Chef Eric laughed at my spirit and delivered this absolutely maximalist modern art piece which somehow melts every ostentatious element beautifully in a way that elevates the sum above its component. This was my favorite part of the meal, and I highly recommend it as the option.

Sofia ordered the Porc ("klingeman farms pork, quince, endive, colatura caramel") which was plated beautifully. As I do not partake I cannot comment beyond its lovely plating.

Course 3: Wagyu

Leaning into indulgence, my host insisted I get the Wagyu, and I am grateful she did. After plate after plate of art and flavor levity, coming in with a rich, surprisingly gamey revelation was a good palette changer before floral desserts.

I will say I would likely select from a regular option next time, and save a wagyu supplement for a place with more on minimalist preparation. It is not a criticism of the steak but more its lack of exceptionalism against the already-standout lineup of third-course selections.

Both of our mains (hers the Poisson, "sea bass, spinach, saffron, vanilla, warm spices") were delicious, and they did not miss on the preparation of the wagyu. Simply, I'm not sure it is worth missing the wheelhouse-regulars for the special treat.

If I walk away from wagyu thinking "that was great, but the fish was spectacular," this is my takeaway.

Course 4: Dessert

We got the Baba Au Rhum ("sorrel, apple, bergamot, olive oil") and Lavande ("yuzu, pistachio, sheep's milk, tangerine") and fully shared both selections which were delightful and delicious. I will say the plating outshined the taste (though both were tasty), as both were so light I was left craving something more, even with the supplemental surprise pistachio madeline. Perhaps that is a zealousness of my own appetite, but I did not personally leave feeling full, so I suggest planning accordingly should this meal be earlier in your evening.

Mystery Item:

In the jazz-club progression of the evening, I have one item I cannot quite remember the details of, so I have included it here with the madeline. I apologize for not taking notes:

Overall Impression:

This was a fun, light, fragrant, floral, color-pop bash of an evening, and I highly recommend it for a special occasion. I think it is appropriately recognized and priced for the experience you get over the 1.5 hour meal. Come braced with a moderate appetite for both food and banter and you'll have a great time! And maybe walk out looking like a Gotye album cover~

Well, we did it, we managed to snag a reservation at the nearly impossible to get into newly-minted 3rd-star restaurant in Southern California (the only 3* in SoCal, may we add). Unfortunately for me, this reservation (on a holiday weekend!) happened to overlap with some dental shenanigans, but fortunately for everyone, the team here is so outstanding in their commitment to inclusivity that they managed to put out a meal I could mostly enjoy anyway (with slight modifications).

Setting:

Set near the golf course at the Fairmont Grand Del Mar, you could be forgiven for mistaking the burnt orange exterior for the entrance to a spa or club lounge. That mistake would be quickly remedied at the site of the large wrought-iron door ornamentation, but the inspiration here is far from the quaint cottage of TFL or subtle doorway of Alinea. We passed the time pre-dinner putting on the green, working in a handsome library, and meeting Santa in the surrounding resort. The resort overall is fantastic, the restaurant a little McMansion looking on the outside but handsomely adorned. 8/10.

Service:

As I said, truly spectacular. Dishes were delivered in synchrony, doors were opened exactly on time, but there was a far more relaxed air compared to other places of this caliber that put diners at ease. Our sommelier and head server matched our energy and joked throughout our entire service, with a seamless transition to more formal tones at our adjacent tables. They didn't just go above and beyond accommodating my jaw pain (a huge issue! I could barely do jello!) but also in making us feel welcome and at home at an otherwise precariously nice dinner. Requests were met, service was precise, but never once did we feel under a microscope or fussed over in a bad way. 10/10, this is what fine dining should feel like.

Beverage Service:

Our sommelier and hosts both were very accommodating to our minimal drinking palette, but still paired us with a 99-point champagne that was, unsurprisingly, the best I have every enjoyed personally.

The birthday boy was very excited, his expression nonwithstanding.

Amuse Bouche: "Delivery"

"Oysters, Horseradish, Smoked Roe, Green Apple"

This was a masterclass in flavor. I have had oysters prepared many different ways, in infinite shades of "yep, that's the ocean." This was the first time I've had anything in the mussel, clam or oyster family that tasted spectacular; like a salad that actually clicked right. 10/10

Preludes:

Prelude 1: Sake Cured Kampachi - Nigiri

I wish I had a better photo of this, because the best way to describe this was "leaf-type Pokemon meets leaf-type Poke." Just a perfect semi-sphere of raw fish and fresh vegetables.

Prelude 2: "Chicken Liver Churro, Bitter Chocolate"

Prelude 3: "Sage Hill Ranch Garden Greens"

Chicken liver churro was a confusing choice, the textures were good but the ooze of the pate when taking a bite gave me pause. This dip was saved by the deep fried vegetable-laden pillow, featuring vegetables grown from a single origin local garden because of course, why not?

Prelude 4: "Wagyu Tartar, Squid Ink Cracker, Miso Mayo"

I'm not one for uncooked food, but chef Bradley knew how to prep them. This tartare had the perfect texture, and I did not get the classic 'sneaking into the cookie dough' ick factor with the meat's cold texture. Light and fluffy wafer. 8/10.

Prelude 5: "Iberian Ham, Crispy Potato, White Truffles"

Sadly I missed out on some of this fifth appetizer due to the ham, but wow was that texture amazing.

Main Tasting Menu:

Course 1: Kanpachi Sashimi, Preserved Pear, Golden Kiwi, Pichuberry Ponzu

This was hard-mode chopsticks challenge, and I was ready for the test after two weeks in Japan. I have never had better sashimi. 10/10.

Course 2: Shellfish Chawanmushi, Broccoli, Bok Choy, Celtuce

Most of my friends are aware of my disdain for uni. My philosophy is, "if you have to pulverize a food to make it completely unrecognizable for me to like it, I probably do not like it." This uni was prepared such that it was the star of the show but it WAS delicious. Perfectly cooked. No weird tongue texture. Amazing. 7/10 (mainly because I still really do not care for Uni)

Course 3: Regilis Ova Reserve Caviar, Koshihikari Rice, Smoked Sabayon

Okay, I understand why our server said "eggs and rice" is chef's most famous dish. This was unparalleled. This was divine. The caviar is from Thomas Keller's company (there was a letter from him on the kitchen wall, mind you). The rice had a toasted sesame undertone. These were the Dippin' Dots of caviar courses, with both the eggs and rice in perfect spheres. 10/10.

Course 4: Fish & Chips, Toasted Dill, Burnt Onion Dip

I tried this, I shouldn't have, since this and the bread were the only courses too firm for me. Flavor of the dip was tasty, but not special. 5/10.

Course 5: Splendid Alfonsino, Flavors of Fall, Clam Butter

I don't know what they did to this fish skin but I could eat ten more plates of this course alone. The fish flavor was good, the seasoning was the elevating factor. 8/10.

Course 6: Sourdough Bread, Goat's Milk, Browned Honey Butter

I love red fife sourdough. I had jaw issues. I did not get to enjoy the crush of this bread, but the inside was perfect.

Course 7: Rosemary Roasted Sweetbreads, Pine Nut "Riso," Little Gem

I am not sure if I or my friend got the replacement dish for this one, but whatever it was was really tasty, with breaded chicken served on the side. Everything was cohesive but overall not as memorable as other courses, 7/10.

Course 8: A5 Wagyu, Miso-Eggplant, Matsutake Broth, Black Garlic

Chef Bradley clearly has a talent for pulling together spectacular flavors, and cooking meats (mostly seafoods) in a creative and fresh light. Unfortunately, this wagyu (a $250+ supplement!) was not it. It was dry, it was not served hot (warm), and it was tough with poor marbling. I'm going to hazard to say the cut was bad rather than the kitchen did not prepare it well, but honestly I've had 5oz cuts in similar caliber restaurants for far cheaper than this supplement with five times the flavor. This was the only miss of the whole night and not part of the main menu, so the menu can still be judged on its merits as outstanding. Unfortunately, for this course, 1-2/10.

Course 9: Yuzu Custard, Mint, Ceremonial Matcha

This palette cleanser was light, flavorful, the perfect intro to sweet, and made with gorgeous ceremonial-grade matcha (which I now vaguely can differentiate after dozens of matchas in Japan). This is the Speak Now album of tasting menus - the perfect transition between Mains (country) and Desserts (pop). 9/10.

Desserts:

Everything we were served was good, rich, and seasonal. Was it as diverse as some other dessert menus we've had? No. Was it still a series of hit after hit? Yes. Everything was very elevated, but felt casually delivered (in a good way) and focused, mimicking the elegant-but-relaxed feel of the whole dinner.

Dessert 1: Cocoa Crunch, Mezcal, Passion Fruit, Toasted Fluff

It's chocolate mousse, with chocolate accoutrements. It was good. It is mousse. You all know my thoughts on mousse. No numbers, just 'good!'

Dessert 2: Berry-Beet Tartlette, Verjus, Vanilla

Oh my god the TEXTURE. Amazing. Delightful! You expect 'maraschino cherry' and get 'gelatinous galaxy cake and floral salad medley'

Dessert 3: Bitter Chocolate Wafer, Pistachio, Sour Cherry Jam

Oh yay, more mousse. Tasty, light. But mousse.

Dessert 4: Caramelized Honey Bonbon, Almonds, Ginger, Rosemary

I couldn't eat fast enough to bite into this at the perfect moment, but the flavors and textures were clearly the peak of this dessert course. Think of a frozen cream puff left to thaw, except made out of spectacular ingredients, infused with notes of lavender and rose water (these are not in it but these are the notes I tasted). Wow, 9/10.

Dessert 5: Tres Leches, White Truffle

It's crunchy, it has truffle, therefore it was less accessible to me than other choices tonight. That being said, Tony gave it a 10/10, so it has the foodie badge of approval.

Final Thoughts:

This dinner was divine. I feel proud to be a Southern Californian able to experience such an amazing achievement in my own backyard, and share sincere congrats to Chef Bradley and team for their (long-overdue, based on friends' reports) third star. If you want pretention in fine dining, this is not for you. It is not an instagram name-drop, there are not iconic indoor backdrops to peep, the name recognition isn't there with TFL and Alinea - yet. But if you want a spectacular meal, delivered by earnest people, who have a love and passion for the local and international landscape and want to deliver it to you? Yes, come here. Overall thoughts, 9/10, but as with all things that is subjective. I loved my experience, I would return for the people alone (just maybe not the wagyu). It took me months to land this one, and it was very well worth it.