a part of the são paulo fashion week known as casa de criadores (or "home builders", something the relevance of is probably lost in translation), jadson raniere's spring 2012 collection found inspiration in the brazilian artist francisco brennand's sculptures. Â
as the site portais da moda explains (trans.), "the designer invested in the interference of texturing and application of structured surfaces in the construction of shoulders and collars to reflect characteristic points of the works of the sculptor." Â
starting out in neutral shades of nude and sand, the designer took turns through red, lemon, black, and white, with a few floral numbers that rather reminded me of the patterns that graced those grunge-esque ensembles (paired with a hat and dr. martens, as in the early nineties). Â materials included tulle, a number of lightweight sheers, fabrics mixed with resin (for the more avant-y pieces), and latex. Â
knee-length dresses and skirts, wide-legged trousers, and breezy blouses made up the range on the womenswear end, with sheers, layering, distressed elements, volume, draping, tucks, and unfinished edges made up some of the key runway themes. Â portais da moda also speaks rather strongly of the sexual notions prevalent throughout, particularly conveyed through the sheer fabrics (though i wasn't as convinced it was as much about alluring new partners as it was experimentation with materials). Â
in the end, it made for some thoughtful, artful creations that at their best were both delicate and beautiful, with an avant-y slant that was neither too extreme nor too dull. Â however, on the other end, there were exits that felt both a little strange, a little voluminous for the average woman (as at bottom), or just unlikely to don (as at top) in daily life. Â
to be sure, the designer is going in an interesting direction, and i appreciate the quietly fetching details of the little bolero paired with the maxi dress above, for example, but head-to-toe florals (on dudes, no less)? Â there, well, not so much. Â
(see the complete runway video here)