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"One more figure is perhaps worth looking at as an example of female sovereignty within the Japanese imperial line. Not the second-century shaman-queens Himiko and Toyo, whose relationship to the modern imperial family is unclear, nor the conquering Empress Jingū (r. 201–269 CE, in the traditional dating), whose story is rife with nebulous historicity and later mythologisation. While they are famous as female rulers, Iitoyo (r. 484) is all but forgotten. This is accounted for partly by the brevity of her reign (about half a year) and the resulting dearth of information concerning her. Certainly, she was not thought of by ancient chroniclers as a legitimate empress; while the ostensible regent Jingū is still afforded her own section in the Nihon shoki, Iitoyo warrants only a brief mention in the annals of her successor, Emperor Kenzō (r. 485–487). Early records never grant her the full monarchic title; only in the twelfth-century chronology Fusō ryakki is she known as a monarch.
Iitoyo took power following the death of Emperor Seinei (r. 444–484). Her enthronement was enabled by succession confusion, although two different eighth-century court histories give varying accounts. In the older work, the Kojiki, the only living male heirs are still in hiding following a bout of internecine rival-murdering on a previous emperor’s part; Iitoyo is portrayed more as a regent, merely holding court until the true (male) heirs can be found, fitting in more closely with the ‘placeholder’ narrative. In the other, the Nihon shoki, however, her reign occurs while said heirs cannot agree on which is to rule; here, she appears as a more disruptive presence, circumventing the patriline and even using a regnal name (derided by the text as ‘self-styled’).
The Nihon shoki interpretation presents her as a brief pretender-queen, a short-term challenge to the ‘proper’ line of succession; she is insistently dismissed as a legitimate monarch, and yet, recognised or not, Iitoyo was the effective sovereign of Japan for a short time in the late fifth century. Iitoyo in the Nihon shoki shows yet another side of the notion of the ‘traditional’ placeholder, in that early female sovereigns could be written out of official narratives entirely, despite functioning as empresses regnant in all other aspects. The imperial family’s own internal chronology is itself a narrative constructed over the course of centuries; the ‘traditions’ present within it carefully curated by later generations. The question of what the imperial tradition even permits, in terms of female rulership, is further complicated by the very artifice of what gets to be considered as ‘tradition’ in the first place."
McKay Natalie, "More than placeholders: The ‘century of empresses’ against modern succession laws"
THE IMPERIAL EMERALD OF GRAND DUCHESS VLADIMIR OF RUSSIA SUPERB EMERALD AND DIAMOND PENDENT NECKLACE
Pear-shaped emerald of 75.61 carats, pear, circular and marquise-cut diamonds, platinum and gold, necklace 40.9 cm, detachable pendant 7.1 cm
SSEF, 2019, report no. 104338: 75.617 carats, Colombia, minor oil, Appendix letter
Gübelin, 2018, report no. 18120088: 75.61 carats, Colombia, minor oil
PROVENANCE
Catherine the Great (1729-1796)
Tsar Paul I of Russia (1754-1801)
Tsar Alexander I of Russia (1777-1825)
Tsar Nicholas I of Russia (1796-1855)
Tsar Alexander II of Russia (1818-1881)
Grand Duke Vladimir Alexandrovich of Russia (1847-1909)
Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna, The Grand Duchess Vladimir of Russia (1854-1920)
Grand Duke Boris Vladimirovich of Russia (1877-1943)
Cartier
John D. Rockefeller Jr. (1874-1960)
Raphael Esmerian (1903-1976)
A distinguised private collector
FABULOUS JEWELS THE COLLECTION OF CATHERINE THE GREAT
Catherine the Great was born Princess Sophie of Anhalt-Zerbst of Prussia in 1729. With not a single drop of Russian blood in her veins, for her contemporaries and for successive generations, she was to become the very embodiment of Russia, ruling a mighty empire for 34 years. Selected at the age of 14 as a suitable bride for her cousin Peter, the future Tsar Peter III of Russia, Princess Sophie set off for St Petersburg. In 1745 she converted to the Russian orthodox religion in Moscow taking the name Ekaterina, and was married to Peter, becoming a Grand Duchess of Russia.
Catherine the Great soon found herself as sole mistress of the world’s largest and wealthiest empire.
The empress understood perfectly the demonstrative effect of a glittering court and she was conscious of the fact that in the eyes of European monarchs a great jewellery collection was as important as a great army.
Catherine was one of the greatest collectors of all time, in both scale and quality. She took great pleasure in the jewels that proclaimed her power and her rank as empress. Uniquely precious and suited for imperial elegance, Catherine the Great was particularly fond of emeralds. Lot 269 was cut from a rectangular-cut emerald weighing over 107 carats, rumoured to be the second largest in her collection by its size and quality.
This magnificent emerald, mounted in a brooch surrounded by diamonds, was to remain in the private collection of the Tsars of Russia until the end of the 19th century. Inherited from Catherine the Great, passing through the hands of 5 Tsars, the emerald and diamond brooch was given in 1874 by Tsar Alexander II to Duchess Marie of Meckleburg-Schwerin (who became Maria Pavlovna, Grand Duchess Vladimir of Russia), on the occasion of her wedding to his son, Grand Duke Vladimir Alexandrovich of Russia.
THE JEWELS OF GRAND DUCHESS MARIA PAVLOVNA OF RUSSIA
The Romanov dynasty is famous for its splendid collections of jewellery and precious objects, but it was Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna who became a legendary figure in the world of jewellery collecting. As the consort of Grand Duke Vladimir Alexandrovich, son of Tsar Alexander II, she received some of the most beautiful gems in the imperial collection. But it was her own great sense of style, her knowledge of precious stones, and, undoubtedly, her royal bearing and awareness of her regal responsibilities that were the foundations on which she built her dazzling collection.
The Grand Duchess received from her father-in-law, Tsar Alexander II, the most beautiful emerald in all the Romanov treasures, comprising a necklace with a hexagonal-cut emerald of 100 carats and a brooch with an exceptional 107.72 carat emerald. These jewels were greatly admired in all the European courts.
The Russian Revolution of 1917 saw an explosion of riots, strikes and violence that marked the end of Tsarist Russia; St Petersburg was in a growing state of anarchy and at the mercy of the Bolsheviks. Most of the aristocracy and bourgeoisie tried to flee the country with whatever they could carry, hiding the most precious objects in their palaces and mansions in the hope that one day they would return. Their now empty homes were easy prey for criminals and revolutionaries acting on the orders of the Bolsheviks, who swiftly ransacked them. Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna had moved to her villa in the southern Russian border town of Kislovodsk, leaving her jewellery in the safe of her St Petersburg palace. She confided her fears of looters breaking in to the Hon. Albert Stopford, a well-known high society Englishman in St Petersburg, who unofficially acted as a secret agent, reporting the situation in the capital to the British Government.
Stopford decided to embark on the dangerous journey to the Caucasus to see the Grand Duchess in Kislovodsk and arrange a plan to rescue the jewels. Back in St Petersburg, following Maria Pavlovna’s instructions, with the help of the loyal palace caretaker he reached the safe, concealed between her wardrobe and the dressing room, and rescued the jewels. The most difficult task was smuggling them out of Russia. Thanks to his connection at the British Embassy Stopford organised a scheme that allowed him, with a false identity, to return to Great Britain with the jewels hidden in his suitcase. Once in London he deposited them, under the Grand Duchess’s name, in a safe in the Cox & Co. bank.
Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna was the last Romanov to leave the Russian soil in 1919. After a long journey by ship she arrived in Venice, where the devoted Stopford was waiting for her on the dock with the money to pay for her passage from Constantinoples.
Soon afterwards the Grand Duchess fell ill with a kidney problem and moved to her favourite spa town of Contrexéville in France, where her condition worsened. She died on 6 September 1920 in the Grand Hôtel de l’Etablissement. In her will, her collection of jewels was divided between her four children. Grand Duke Cyril received the sapphire jewels, Grand Duke Boris the emeralds, Grand Duke Andrei the rubies, and Grand Duchess Helen the pearls and diamonds.
Grand Duke Boris sold the emerald necklace to Cartier who unmounted the stones and set them in a sautoir for Edith Rockfeller McCormick. Upon her death, Cartier bought it back and sold it to Barbara Hutton. Later in 1927, the Grand Duke sold the spectacular emerald brooch with its 107.72 carat step-cut emerald to Cartier. He kept the emerald drop pendant for his wife Zinaida
In 1947 Cartier bought from the renowned lapidary and dealer Raphael Esmerian an emerald and diamond necklace composed of seven step-cut stones that originally belonged to the Payne Whitney family. To this the 107 carat emerald was attached. On the suggestion of Esmerian, in order to remove a flaw the emerald was recut into a drop of 75.63 carats. The now perfect drop was reattached as a pendant to the necklace, to which one more emerald was added. In this form it was sold in 1954 to John D. Rockefeller Jr. It was later sold at auction in Zurich in November 1971.
This pear-shaped emerald is not only an extraordinarily beautiful stone, with a saturated brilliant green colour and amazing purity, a rarity gemologically for an emerald of 75 carats, but it is unique for its imperial provenance, reflecting the splendour of the Romanov dynasty, and a rare gem to survive the Russian Revolution.
Stefano Papi Author of The Jewels of the Romanovs. Family and Court (Thames & Hudson)
LITERATURE
H. Nadelhoffer, Cartier, Paris, Éditions du Regard, 1984
A. Kenneth Snowman, The Master Jewelers, London, Thames & Hudson, 2006
V. Meylan, Christie’s The Jewellery Archives Revealed, Woodbridge, ACC Art Books Ltd., 2016
S. Papi, The Jewels of the Romanovs Family and Court, London, Thames & Hudson
Those things? Yeah. Men wore them. Granted, they were in a different style BUT, they still did! Now, I will be the first to admit I know barely anything about fashion, historical or otherwise, but I saw this (in a fanfic no less), and had to research. *Then* I just had to share because, C'MON GUYS?!? How cool is this???
From the little research I've done (I *highly* recommend going down this rabbithole, it is *very* interesting), corsets for men were most popular in the around the 18th century (roughly 1700's-1800's).
They were oftentimes used to support posture as well as achieve a trimmer waist and more defined silhouette. They also helped relieve back pain in certain cases.
Wearing them was a secret practice, particularly in the mid-1800's when it became "taboo".
I would highly recommend these websites for a read-through about this topic:
"The Cut": https://www.thecut.com/2015/03/yes-men-in-the-18th-century-wore-corsets.html
Anya is live and ready to show you everything. Watch her strip, dance, and perform exclusive shows just for you. Interact in real-time and make your fantasies come true.
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What if we were knights in the same file and fought together. What if when you were injured in battle I protected you. What if I stayed by your side while you healed. What if- w-what if I held your hand while you were sleeping.