#hadagi

Nagajuban + Hanjuban:

Hanjuban - half-juban with longer sleeves and eri, comes with susoyoke. Also called nibushiki juban. Nagajuban - full length to ankles with longer sleeves and eri

Fabrics

Many available but should be supple and have good drape.

Sha or ro for summer.

Fiber types

Silk, synthetics, or blends.

Synthetics are now cheaper and are easier to wash, so they may be more common.

Season

All-season but depends on weight of fabric and whether a lining is present or not. Can be thin, unlined silk or ro, or lined. Linings, of course, are paired with lined (awase) kimono. Heavier or thicker linings are for deeper cold, but most of Japan doesn't get that cold.

Formality

Coloured - mostly antiques

Red - formal for young wearers, such as furisode or children's kimono; may also be antiques, which have more "flexibility" in terms of formality. Typical rules about gold/silver elements may apply.

Pink or pale yellow/orange - semiformal, motifs may be paired with season. Modern furisode juban are often pale pink or cream.

Paler pink <--> paler = more formal

White - most formal, correct for homoungi, 5-kamon kimono, kurotomesode. Can be worn with mid-formality kimono

Fashion

For summer, a juban with a different pattern under usumono was once fashionable.

Ro juban are sometimes changed slightly ahead of season, along with summer accessories, depending on tradition (such as Kyoto geiko house traditions.)

Other Features

built-in waist tie (himo) usually seen on some antiques or kids' juban

chikara nuno ("strong fabric") / emon nuki (same thing)- should be attached to juban collar, with adjustable lines to lower or raise collar

kantan eri (easy collar) - akin to chikara nuno, but not attached to the juban itself. can be used with hadajuban to 'upscale' yukata, or used to shape the collar without strain on the juban. also called shitate eri or usotsuki eri.

a kantan eri I made, next to shaping an antique juban's collar. private collection.

This (2009) video of dressing a maiko shows first hadagi, then hanjuban + susoyoke, then the actual eri being tied on separately. It would make sense for someone with a delicately embroidered collar to keep it as a separate piece. Where a "normal person" would pick it off the juban, a performer has to have their undergarments cleaned regularly and the weight of that heavy collar would damage it. Maiko wear the embroidered collar over the nagajuban but a kantan eri is worn underneath it or instead of nagajuban.

For myself, I take many dressing cues from professionals who wear kimono daily. they are the closest most modern people get to elegant, fashionable examples of women who wore kimono daily over 100 years ago.

One element, besides the collar being separate when possible, is the layering of colours without extra weight. If one looks at the nape of the eri for geiko kimono, there is the outer kosode layer, a collar layer, and an innermost layer from the hadagi. Chikara nuno, above hadagi and below nagajuban, feels like it gives that slight glance at a third layer of colour or pattern. It's very small and hardly noticeable but can give just one more element to an outfit, like a fuji pattern in summer or asanoha in late Autumn or Winter.

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