Head first into the pit. It was this seemingly gravity defying lip lunge some 40 years ago that started my obsession with this wave. Experiencing the changes of life with family, friends and possessions, this is a constant I continue to be drawn towards. Image | @mattp.aul @Science.Bodyboards #sciencestyle 42β #flexefactor4 @vipersurfingfins #deltaviper @Gyroll #gyrollprimus #gyrollleash #Pipeline #keg #beautiful #nature #fun #style #smile #hawaii #onlyway #waves #church #pipeline #bliss #bodyboard #happyplace #natural #naturalhigh #rush #rapture (at Her Majesty) https://www.instagram.com/p/CTnQ2ymHvQF/?utm_medium=tumblr













