#grantstone

This review has been a long time coming, but one benefit of that lag is that I’ve had quite a bit of time to put to use what has now become a small collection of shoes and boots from Grant Stone.

I had originally, like many of you, first heard of Grant Stone about a year and half to two years ago. At first glance, they seemed not unlike a host of other new shoe companies on the internet that promised savings using the direct-to-consumer model. I have been dubious of many of these companies whose products seem uninspired or of questionable quality, but there were a few distinguishing features that seemed to set Grant Stone apart and which drew me to their collection.

First, and to address what some may perceive as the elephant in the room, their limited stable of initial offerings looked very much like some of the standards from the much-venerated American brand, Alden. Slight tweaks were apparent, for example slightly larger lace holes and one fewer speed hook on Grant Stone’s Ottawa Boot, which is very similar to Alden’s Tanker Boot. But I found out later that this was no mere case of imitation being the sincerest form of flattery, but a style born out of a deep transgenerational family connection to Alden. Wyatt’s (one of the founders of Grant Stone) father and grandfather both had long careers at Alden, and Wyatt himself--unlike many young entrepreneurs seeking to get into the high-quality Goodyear welted shoe market--has significant hands-on experience himself in the construction and production side of the shoe business (more on this background can be found here at Ian’s [From Squalor to Baller] fantastic write-up on Grant Stone).

Second, pictures I was first seeing of Grant Stone shoes and boots floating around the internet quickly made apparent a quality in construction and attention to detail that set them apart from other direct-to-consumer brands. And thirdly, even though their price point kicked in higher than many other brands in that market, I was nevertheless drawn in because they offered what appeared to be not only Alden-inspired classic designs, but a price point that came in significantly below Alden, which continues to remain outside what I can bring myself to spend on shoes.  

Thus intrigued, I reached out to Grant Stone to find out more about their collection and they offered to send along some shoes for me to look at. At the time, they seemed to have already done a great job gaining some traction in the world of selvedge denim and work boots, and so expressed interest in having me check out their longwing derby in what they call British Tan Calf. I was more than happy to oblige, as that style of shoe fits much more squarely within the parameters of my own style, and I am always interested in sharing insights into brands that might appeal to the budget-conscious menswear enthusiasts out there.

When the shoes arrived and I first unboxed them I was immediately struck by their heft. The only other shoes I own that I could compare them to in terms of their--for lack of a better term--solidity, were my Tricker’s Stow country brogue boots, and my vintage Florsheim Imperial longwings. That’s probably not a coincidence, as these shoes clearly take many cues from the tradition of the robust and sturdy English country derby shoe. 

The welt detailing was perfect, and the fudging/wheeling (I think I have my terms right here) was beautifully done--in fact, neater and more precise than on any other shoe I own. I looked the shoes over in great detail, and could find no flaws whatsoever, either on the exterior or interior. This is no minor feat, as almost every pair of shoes I’ve ever purchased has had some minor blemish of a sort that’s not enough to render it a second, but something short of perfect--a slightly off-kilter stitch, a loose smudge of glue in the interior, a slight depression in the welt, etc.

The British Tan Calf is exquisite. Grant Stone appears to source their leathers from some of the most renowned tanneries in the world. For instance, Horween for many of their boots and shoes, but the British Tan Calf is from the French Tannerie D’Annonay. To give you an idea of the quality of leather we’re talking about here, Hermes purchased Tannerie D’Annonay several years ago in order to ensure that they could have ready access to their leathers.

Beyond the high-quality construction and materials, what I really love about these longwings is their absolute versatility as a shoe. They fit squarely within my classic ivy-inspired style, and can be easily worn across the spectrum of formality. These shoes are as at home with a suit as they are with trousers and sport coat, or with jeans and a sweater. So far, I’ve worn them with each of the above-mentioned combinations and spent much of those days looking at my feet and admiring the shoes.

Apart from top-notch style and construction, there is another dimension to Grant Stone’s shoes and boots that I think merit some attention, and for which they seem to be exemplars. I have written before about the ways in which Chinese-made products seem to immediately get discounted as being of inferior quality. This assumption not only bespeaks a questionable cultural bias, but it is, increasingly, just incorrect. Many brands have been able to offer items at very competitive price points that bear incredibly high-quality manufacturing that is done in China. In tailored clothing brands like Spier & Mackay and Suit Supply of course come to mind, and I think Grant Stone has clearly built a relationship with their factory in China that produces first-rate Goodyear welted shoes of a quality that easily matches or surpasses that of Tricker’s, Crockett & Jones, and Allen Edmonds (all of which I own), and at a price point that makes them very competitive.

While Grant Stone’s prices are a bit higher than many of the other direct-to-consumer brands, I believe their high quality merits the difference. The British Tan Longwings retail at $350 (a good deal less than Alden’s LWB), but they are currently clearing out some of their discontinued models at under $300--I’d buy the brown suede plain-toe derby if they had it in my size, but they don’t, for which my pocketbook thanks me. The Grant Stones I own are all built on their Leo last, which runs a half size large. I measure a true 10D on a Brannock device, and the Grant Stone in a 9.5 fits perfectly. They began quite snug--but not uncomfortably so--and have since settled into being some of my most comfortable dress shoes. I can easily work a day--much of it spent on my feet--in these and not feel any discomfort. 

In the end, I can offer no more ringing endorsement of these shoes beyond the fact that I have happily spent my own money on more pairs, and now have three pairs of Grant Stones in my shoe rotation--in addition to the British Tan Calf longwings, I also have their Ivory Bucks and their Ottawa boot in a nice ‘Dune’ Horween Chromexcel. Enjoy the pics of my other Grant Stones below!