#furbtalk

1. The fur over the faceplate was separate, and shaved down ahead of time. It may have been larger, but the edges were rolled up under itself to hide the backing.

2. Plastic clips are used at all points of fur / plastic contact, such as between the eyes, around the faceplate, around the antenna and around the ears. Unless you have painstakingly removed every clip from their slots and have detached them via seam-ripping from the fabric, you will have to choose another way to secure these contact points.

3. There were two pieces of scrap fur on the inside of the face, presumably for shaping. Here, they are represented by rectangles, but I don’t believe them to have any other purpose besides shaping.

4. When the pattern is finished, the bottom edge should be straight across. The belly seam is an inward fold in the fur that functions as an anchor for the tickle sensor/ batting, the seam where the feet are sewn in, as well as where the fabric will tuck under the plastic base plate. (Where you sew in your feet on this line is up to you because I maimed this area in the process of removing them. Oopsie)

5. To help the fur hold itself to the Furby, a line of elastic circled all the way around the bottom edge of the fur. I recommend 5mm or smaller. Do not wind it too tightly, just enough for it to pull all of the puckers under the base plate.

6. The tail material was actually a short-pile fur, with the wrong side of the fabric being presented on the outside. The ribbon attaching the tail pull sensor is tied through the hook, then sewn into the seam between the furry tuft and the tail base.

7. To put the fur over the ears, you will have to make a slightly larger than usual slit to accommodate for their width, then muppet-stitch them back up to a decent size. Unless, of course, you have the willpower to try and safely remove the ears from their pegs.