#fredericabernkastel

.First , to make things simple ,the cosplay consists of five parts: a  high collar white blouse with bell sleeves , a bow , a black overdress, a petticoat  and  a double layered circle skirt .

Part 1 The Blouse

Materials: White polyester fabric (not the best quality wise, but at least it is affordable)

White lace for the collar and the sleeves.

Zipper

I used Butterick 3199 ( View A,B) , but any similar pattern will do. (This pattern didn’t have a zipper and called for a stretchy fabric which wouldn’t work for this cosplay so I had to make some changes)

After tracing the bodice pattern , I added darts to the front and the back to make it more fitting .(There are plenty of online tutorials on how to add darts so I suggest you read them if you haven’t added darts to a garment before.) The darts started one inch below the bust point and were 14 cms long and 1 inch wide.I then sewed the shoulders and the sides.

The sleeves: after some online research I found out that this kind of sleeve is called trumpet sleeve/bell sleeve. I copied the sleeve pattern and cut the part below the elbow . For the lower part of the sleeve I traced two  bell shapes  on pattern paper (it took some trial and error to find the perfect size).Keep in mind that the second sleeve will have to be longer than the first.I decorated the edges with lace , sewed  both the upper and the lower part of the sleeves closed ,connected them together and then connected them to the bodice.

Collar : The collar was  basically a rectangle piece of fabric. Keep in mind, when making a high collar garment you have to trace the neckline as high as possible. A low neckline means the collar will be wide and quite bulky . (The collar on my pattern was wider than I liked and I found out too late, so I had to remake the whole bodice to fix the neckline). I sewed the  lace to the neckline and connected it to the blouse. I sewed the back closed , attached the zipper and the blouse was ready.