#fall fashions

Shoulders Versus Drape in 1945: Vogue 1903

This re-issued vintage sewing patter from 1945 is just in time for cool weather in my neck of the woods as the temperature is tumbling. It is an interesting blend of big shoulders and softer gathers at the waistline. There was a shift in fashion for daywear during the late 1930s as Europe broke out in war. Women’s clothing took on bigger shoulders and got rid of a lot of its frills which seemed in keeping with serious times through 1945. You can see here the signs of shoulder pads as the bulk continues past the actual end of the shoulder line. Since this pattern does not call for shoulder pads among its notions, the sewing directions may well call for making them up yourself out of the cotton flannel which is also used for an interlining. 

At the same time, women’s clothing rarely looked like men’s clothing which had long had serious shoulder pads. Instead, you see here a deeply cut arm hole which would not have been seen in men’s tailored coats. They are also one piece, another feature more likely to be seen in women’s clothing than men’s. You see a belt which runs through a casing at the back then pops out at the front side seams and ties outside the coat. It is practical in that you won’t ever lose it as does happen when a belt it merely slide through loops on the outside of a coat. It is also a style feature allowing for soft gathers front and back and the option of tying the coat more tightly to show off an hour-glass figure. The standing collar helps to keep out the chill, yet the limited number of buttons, only 4, tell you that style as much as practicality is embodied in this design.

The gathers are why they suggest medium weight wools as anything heavier would make for bulk at the waistline gathers. In keeping with the vintage sewing instructions, they suggest you interline it with cotton flannel, but I would urge you to track down the kind of slippery lining that has a wool backing to it which will keep you much warmer. Again, check for bulkiness in the lining.

Models in shades of orange for Fall fashions, London, 1967

The Maple owned that she was tired of always wearing green, She knew that she had grown, of late, too shabby to be seen!

The Oak and Beech and Chestnut then deplored their shabbiness, And all, except the Hemlock sad, were wild to change their dress.

“For fashion-plate we’ll take the flowers,” the rustling Maple said, “And like the Tulip I’ll be clothed in splendid gold and red!”

“The cheerful Sunflower suits me best,” the lightsome Beech replied; “The Marigold my choice shall be,” the Chestnut spoke with pride.

The sturdy Oak took time to think -- “I hate such glaring hues; The Gillyflower, so dark and rich, I for my model chose.”

So every tree in all the grove, except the Hemlock sad, According to its wish ere long in brilliant dress was clad.

And here they stayed through all the soft and bright October days; They wished to be like flowers -- indeed, they look like huge bouquets!