Why Your Resin Art Keeps Going Wrong β And How to Fix It
You mixed the resin. You poured it. You waited. And then⦠it came out sticky, full of bubbles, or just not what you imagined. Sound familiar?
Don't worry. Every resin artist has been there. The good news is that most resin mistakes happen for a small number of reasons β and once you know them, they're easy to fix.
Let's walk through the most common problems and exactly what you can do about them.
1. Your Resin Isn't Curing Properly
This is the most frustrating one. You wait hours and your piece is still soft, bendy, or tacky on top.
The most common reason? Wrong mixing ratio. Epoxy resin is a two-part system β resin and hardener β and the ratio matters a lot. If you add too much or too little of either part, the chemical reaction won't complete and your resin stays sticky forever.
The fix: Always read the instructions from your epoxy resin manufacturer carefully. Different products use different ratios. For example, art resin from EPOKE Art uses a 3:1 ratio, while their quick coat resin uses 2:1. Measure by weight using a digital scale, not by eye.
Also, mix slowly and thoroughly β at least 3 to 5 minutes β scraping the sides and bottom of your cup. Unmixed resin near the edges is a very common cause of sticky spots.
A few bubbles are normal. A surface that looks like a sponge? Not so much.
Bubbles form when you mix too fast, when the room is cold, or when certain pigments trap air. They also appear when you pour resin into deep moulds without giving it time to settle.
The fix: Mix slowly. Use a heat gun or torch briefly over the surface after pouring β the heat pops surface bubbles quickly. Make sure your workspace is warm (around 25β30Β°C works well). Cold resin is thick and holds bubbles more stubbornly.
If you're working with moulds, choose the right resin for the job. A casting resin like EPOKE's Mega Cast Resin is made for deeper pours and releases bubbles better than a coating resin would in that situation.
3. Resin Leaking Out of Your Mould
You set up your mould, poured your resin, and came back to find it had leaked everywhere. This usually means your mould has gaps, or it's not flexible enough to hold the resin in properly.
The fix: Use a proper mould making silicone kit to create custom moulds that are seamless and leakproof. EPOKE SIL is a 1:1 mould making silicone kit that's easy to use β you just mix equal parts, press it around your original object, let it set, and you have a perfect mould every time. Silicone moulds are also reusable and flexible, so your cured piece pops out cleanly without breaking.
4. Your Colours Look Muddy or Wrong
You added colour and it looked beautiful in the cup β but after curing, it turned dull, muddy, or separated.
This often happens when you use the wrong kind of pigment, or add too much of it. Alcohol inks, acrylic paints, and water-based colours can all cause problems in resin β they don't mix cleanly and can affect curing.
The fix: Use pigments made specifically for resin. Opaque pigments give you solid, bold colours with full coverage β great for backgrounds or when you want colours that pop. For smaller projects or when you want to try a colour before committing to a large jar, mini pigments are perfect. They come in small portions so you can test freely without waste.
Also, don't add too much pigment β as a rule, keep it to around 6% or less of your total resin volume. Too much can interfere with curing.
5. Glitter Sinking to the Bottom
You added resin glitter expecting it to sparkle throughout your piece β but it all sank to the bottom before the resin set.
The fix: Wait until your resin has thickened slightly (around 30β45 minutes into the pot life, depending on the product) before adding glitter. At this point, the resin is thick enough to hold the glitter in place. You can also pour in layers β add glitter to one layer, let it partially cure, then pour the next layer on top.
6. Your Top Coat Has Fish Eyes or an Uneven Surface
You poured a beautiful top coat and it pulled back in spots, leaving holes or uneven patches.
This happens when the surface below has oil, dust, or silicone on it. Resin simply won't stick to those things.
The fix: Clean your surface before pouring. For a smooth, level top coat that cures hard and clear, quick coat resin is ideal β it self-levels and gives a glass-like finish. EPOKE's Quick Coat Resin 2:1 is designed exactly for this: coating artwork, wood surfaces, and other projects where you want a flawless, hard finish fast.
7. Scratches on Your Finished Piece
Your piece cured beautifully but now it's showing scratches from handling or use.
The fix: For projects that need to be more resistant to everyday wear β like phone cases, coasters, or wearable items β consider using self heal resin. EPOKE's Self Heal Resin is a flexible 2:1 formula that can recover from light scratches on its own over time, thanks to its flexible nature. It's a smart choice for anything that will be handled regularly.
One More Thing: Quality of Resin Matters
All the tips above work best when you start with good resin products to begin with. Low-quality resin yellows fast, cures unevenly, and gives poor results no matter how carefully you work.
EPOKE Art is a trusted epoxy resin manufacturer based in India, offering a full range of resin products β from art resin and quick coat resin to self heal resin, mould making silicone kits, opaque pigments, mini pigments, and resin glitter. Everything is made to work together, so you get consistent, reliable results every time.
You can explore their full range at epokeart.com.
Resin art has a learning curve, but it's not as hard as it seems once you understand why things go wrong. Fix the basics β right ratio, right temperature, right products β and your results will improve dramatically. Happy creating!
