#dibona

Bon, ben on va faire ce qu’on peut...

Aiguille Dibona, septembre 2020. 

🧗‍♀️⛰ 2 day adventure in the ecrins. Parked opposite a church and cemetery in a village 10k down from Berarde. From there could walk up and do the ridge Pointe d’Amont. It was about 2.5 hour walk in and then took about 1 hour to get onto the ridge proper with some fast ropes together scrambling. There were only a couple of good climbing pitches once on the ridge and one good step left which felt slightly exposed. Lots of pitons directing the way and if you follow your nose the route finding is pretty simple. Once we scrambled the last section to the summit (not a proper summit as the proper summit is lose rock) we then walked across to the saddle and went along the ridge towards the centrale du Soreiller. Then a mixture of abs and downclimbing to following cairns on a walk back to the hut. The climbing across that ridge was beautiful easy grade 3 scrambling, really good to move quickly but enjoy climbing. Unfortunately we didn’t have any views as it had clouded over but it felt quite atmospheric so I liked it.

We then stayed in the refuge dibona for the night. Which I wouldn’t stay in again as the food was rank and it is only an hour or so run down to the carpark. But it meant we had lots more energy to climb a route on the dibona fast the next day.

We climbed Voie Madier which was a great route. Enjoyed the second pitch up through the tunnel. There were lots of pitons and bolts along the way which was a shame as it took away from the adventurous trad climbing feel. However it made route finding pretty dam easy. Andreas led the 6b pitch which was pretty tricky actually - a wide crack that was awkward to pull up!

Aiguille Dibona, la voie des nains + voie normale, juin 2020.