Hey, fellow Adventures in Odyssey fans! Looks like we’ll know what will ultimately happen to Eugene in Album 75, in Summer 2023. Marshall Younger has requested prayers, as he’s currently writing the script that specifically addresses Eugene, and recording begins this January, as I’m typing this. Please be praying for the cast and crew!
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Liquid Intelligence: The Art and Science of the Perfect Cocktail, by Dave Arnold
This book is less a recipe book and more a book that happens to contain recipes chosen in order to demonstrate a point.
The author is the most enormous nerd about cocktails you can possibly imagine (however much of a nerd you're thinking, he goes further) and he painstakingly explains to the reader every facet of cocktail making that can affect the flavour/appearance/mouthfeel of the drink, the science behind it, and all of his complex techniques for achieving the most desirable outcomes. I am not the kind of person who will ever be making cocktails to these exacting specifications, but reading Arnold's deep and abiding feelings that these things matter was actually a very enjoyable experience!
The last section of the book was all about his feelings about g&t's, which happen to be one of my favourite cocktails, so it was kind of the perfect note to end on in terms of thinking about what matters to him versus what matters to me. An actual quote from the book: "In 2005, I realized that I would never be satisfied with a traditional G&T. It was a profound moment. [...] I felt compelled to break down the entire gin and tonic and rebuild it from first principles." I love his passion, and also, no I will NOT be making my own quinine syrup (using pure quinine extract, which is difficult to get your hands on because you can easily kill someone with it) or clarifying lime juice (lime juice is apparently particularly hard to clarify! but he put a lot of work into it and eventually came up with a many-step process involving three different chemical agents plus a centrifuge).
However, I was interested to learn that apparently your standard tonic water is supposed to have a lemon-lime flavour along with the quinine bitterness, which might explain why some venues I have regrettably purchased a bad g&t from have not added any lime juice to the drink. They are WRONG (the addition of lime juice is vital to the flavour experience) but I now understand why they went wrong! They thought there was already sufficient citrus flavour!
Probably my biggest actually useful takeaway from this book is that temperature significantly affects perception of flavour, so it is actually relevant what temperature your drink is. It's not in fact akin to how some people just really like their water ice cold where I prefer mine tap-cold only. The balance of flavours in a drink will be affected by how cold it is, because different flavours are more prominent at different temperatures, and the mix of ingredients has been calibrated for a specific temperature.
But I wasn't reading this book for useful takeaways, so this was merely a nice bonus. I was reading it because it looked like it would be fun to read. And it succeeded in what I was looking for from it!
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While not a monsoonal storm, Dave finally got to chase some New Mexico lightning on the fourth of July weekend. The first of the 2011 season for him in New Mexico. Grants, NM.
James Beard Award-winning Dave Arnold applies his scientifically granular approach to understanding three issues that affect the qualities of a chilled drink..
From Lucky Peach:
“A little dose of science will do you good. Think like a scientist and you will make better drinks. You don’t need to be a scientist, or even understand much science, to use the scientific method to your advantage. Control variables, observe, and test your results; that’s pretty much it. This book shows you how to make your drinks more consistent, how to make them consistently better, and how to develop delicious new recipes without taking random shots in the dark.
Chilling and Diluting
Every gram of ice melted provides eighty calories of chilling power. To put that power in perspective, an average 3.5-ounce (90-ml) daiquiri will melt between 55 and 65 grams of ice when you shake it for 10 seconds. That averages 2000 watts of chilling power—per drink. Shake four of those bad boys at once and you are blasting 8000 watts of chilling power.
Super-Chilled Ice
A counterintuitive fact: colder ice chills more slowly than warmer ice. If you shake with ice that is well below the freezing point, it will actually chill more slowly than ice at 0°C. The surface of very cold ice doesn’t melt right away. Instead, the energy that the ice absorbs from the drink is used to heat up the ice cube to the freezing point. After the ice warms up and starts melting, the chilling rate increases. The super-cold ice will eventually make your drink colder with less dilution than tempered ice will, but unless the super-chilled ice is really cold, the difference will be small. Let’s say you start with ice that is −1°C. Heating a gram of −1°C ice up to 0°C requires less than half a calorie—less than half the amount it takes to chill a gram of water 1°C and less than one 160th the amount it takes to melt 1 gram of ice. In other words, the amount of excess chilling energy stored in 160 grams of ice at −1°C would be provided by melting only one more gram of ice at 0°C. Puny difference. Dramatically overchilled ice will dramatically reduce dilution. That isn’t good. It is very rare that you want dramatically reduced dilution in a shaken drink.
Surface Area and Holdback
The flip side of the water trapped on the surface of the ice before you chill is the cocktail stuck to your ice after you have chilled. I call this stolen bit of cocktail the holdback, and it can be quite substantial. More ice, smaller ice, and ice with nooks and crannies will increase holdback. To minimize holdback in your drink, make sure to give your chilling vessel a sharp snap with your hand after the last drip pours out of it. Right the vessel again and strain one last time. Based on tests I’ve done with lackadaisical pouring technique, stirring with crushed ice can hold back between 12 and 25 percent of your drink. Stirring with small ice-machine ice can hold back between 7 and 9 percent of your drink. Even with lousy pouring technique, stirring with block ice cut into large rectangles gives you holdback as low as 1 to 4 percent of your cocktail. The drain, snap, right, and drain again can knock all these numbers down to the 1 to 4 percent area, regardless of the ice you use. Proper cocktail-pouring technique is important.”
The more you know, the more questions you raise. The better a practitioner you become, the more you see the faults in your technique. Perfection is the goal, but perfections is, mercifully, unattainable. I have spent seven years and thousands of dollars on the problem of the perfect gin and tonic; I still have work to do. How boring if I were finished—if I were satisfied.