#cycle trip

Yosemite National Park California 1985

My own photography...  Hitch-hiking toad. Bodmin Moor, Cornwall, England, UK. 

Brittany 

Week 52/52: Panama: Impressions from the Panama Canal (26 May - 4 June) In the Museo del Canal Interoceánico de Panamá we were informed about the history of the Panama Canal, including the first French construction attempt, the later construction by the United States, and the eventual transfer to Panamanian control. Appropriately enough the museum is housed in the former headquarters of both the French and U.S. companies engaged in the construction of the canal. Built between 1904 and 1914 many U.S. chief engineers resigned due to the many challenges. Because the canal's finalization coincided with the outbreak of the First World War the opening ceremony didn't make it to the headlines of most newspapers. Today it's the world's most famous shortcut: The 80 kilometers long canal cuts across the Isthmus of Panama and is a key conduit for international maritime trade between the Atlantic and the Pacific Ocean. The Isthmus was popular long before the canal was built and fiercely secured by Spain until independence. That's because 50 % of their riches - mainly gold and silver - went through Panama and attracted many pirates like the famous Francis Drake. Well informed about the canal's history we went to see the "real" thing on Wednesday morning. We visited the Miraflores locks which offer a viewing platform overlooking the locks and canal, you can almost touch the sailors on the vessels. Huge ships of up to 290 meters pay over $ 150,000 on average to pass the canal. The lowest fee - $ 0.36 - was payed by Richard Halliburton in 1928 when swimming through it. There are locks 26 meters above sea level at each end of the 80 kilometers long canal to lift ships up to Gatun Lake, an artificial lake created to reduce the amount of excavation work required. While nowadays the transit between the two oceans takes less than ten hours, for centuries it was far more time-consuming. Before the 19th century two transport options were available: either fifteen days by river or five days by road. Both weren't very secure - between 1848 and 1852 alone roadside gangs caused 3,000 victims. For a short period camels were used as transport means but too many died in the humid climate. Finally a train constructed in the 1850s sped things up, unfortunately causing 20,000 lives during construction. A wider lane of locks was constructed between September 2007 and May 2016. The expanded canal began commercial operation on June 26, 2016. The new locks allow transit of larger, Post-Panamax ships, which have a greater cargo capacity than the previous locks were capable of handling.

Week 51/52: Costa Rica: Beaches, rivers and crocodiles (18-25 May) Picture 1: Early Sunday morning I was on my way to Puntarenas. For the first twenty kilometers my rattling bike was slipping over the very stony unpaved road with walking speed. The road condition reminded me of the worst roads in Alaska and Canada. Some even claim that the roads are kept in this poor state to "captivate" the tourists for a longer time in Monteverde once they made the arduous journey. But the views compensated, the traffic was non existent and I preferred this road to the highway like episodes before. Pictures 2-4: After lunch at the Jacó beach I passed a bridge over Rio Tarcoles, the entire river watershed covers over 2000 kilometers and it is one of the most contaminated and polluted rivers in Costa Rica. Despite the contamination, an abundance of wildlife thrives and depends on the river for survival. This area has become a big tourist attraction because of the immense population of crocodiles that live just several meters below the bridge. You can see them easily with the naked eye, they look like giant logs! The amount of American crocodiles in this river is simply astounding. So much so that it’s considered to have the highest population of crocodiles in the world. Pictures 5-10: Tuesday was my last beach day of this trip. First I stopped at Dominical - a gringo surfer paradise - which I didn't like too much. I had an overpriced soup in one of the gringo hipster restaurants where at least I could use the free wifi connection for a Skype phone call. Later I stopped at a small shop next to the road for a coke and some biscuits. From my Germanic accent he guessed correctly and played Bavarian brass-band music which I first didn't realize. Asked by the owner what I would prefer instead I mentioned the German techno DJs Sven Väth and Marusha. A few minutes later I was listening to German techno in the middle of nowhere some 10,000 kilometers away from Germany. That night I stayed in Uvita in a rather abandoned bamboo hostel owned by Jesus - not in a religious sense. Most people from the young surfer crowd where staying in a much more expensive party hostel. The afternoon I shared the most beautiful beach I've ever seen with some surfer boys. The waves were rather big but I stayed a long time in the dark blue water watching them catch the surf. From the water the shore looked amazing: a black sky sat enthroned above palm trees and other tropical plants of all shades of green, blue mountains in the background, a yellow beach and white clouds in the sky. I would have loved to capture this on a picture but was to worried to ruin the camera in the water. Wouldn't the approaching thunderstorm have driven me out I could have remained hours in the sea.

Week 51/52: Costa Rica: Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve - Flora (18-25 May) Pictures 1-5: Costa Rica in general and Monteverde in particular are famous for zip-lining which was "invented" in 1997. Composed of steel cables and platforms strung at various heights between trees, they offer tourists a unique means of accessing beautiful and remote natural areas mostly above the canopy of the rainforest. The Original Canopy Tour is still operating today but larger, longer and faster lines have been created in the last decades with Tarzan swings and Superman rides. I chose the Selvatura canopy tour as it is the only provider in the primary rain forest. It’s cables and platforms are built into the cloud forest rather than above it, allowing to feel truly immersed within the forested environment. In total, there are 15 cables and 18 viewing platforms that stretch over three kilometers. With speeds of over 50 kilometers per hour I was a bit scared in the beginning but soon loved flying like a bird through the canopy of the tropical cloud forest. After the bird-eye perspective I walked through the dense forest on hanging bridges. The constant mist and rain produces an abundance of plants. Some trees are covered by up to 100 types of orchids. Pictures 6-10: In the early 1950s, a group of Quakers from the U.S. left their homes in Alabama to avoid being drafted into the Korean War. Settling in Monteverde they started as farmers with dairy and cheese production which had negative consequences for the cloud forest. Therefore just twenty years later some of these families helped establish the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve. Saturday I cycled to this reserve and met Sarah from Switzerland. Together we hiked the different trails through the mystical landscape. One trail led to a viewing point overlooking the watershed between the Atlantic and Pacific Ocean. While we could feel the cold wind from the Atlantic and the warmer breeze from the Pacific unfortunately we didn't see much.

While some nations are rather reserved and not always cheerful, enjoying life and being optimistic is a typical characteristic in Costa Rica. Therefore it's inhabitants use the expression "Pura vida" - translated pure life or full of life - as a greeting and as a farewell multiple times a day. But while they appreciate the relaxedness of course tourists mainly flock to this country to explore the impressive nature. To La Fortuna for example they come for two reasons: to explore the Arenal volcano and the cloud rainforest or to relax in one of the many hot springs. The geothermally heated mineral water is initially fed by rain water that seeps into the Earth through faults and fractures. It is “powered” by magma chambers from direct volcanic activity which exist miles under the Earth’s surface. The Baldi Hot Springs use this water and for a rather expensive entrance fee offer 25 different pools with varying temperatures of up to 67 degrees Celsius. Some of the larger pools offer swim-up bars where you can sip a cocktail while sitting in the warm water surrounded by tropical plants. They also provide a "water" sauna where extremely hot water runs down an artificial waterfall in a cavelike room. Cosy and warm I left the Baldi Hot Springs only to get caught in a very heavy rain shower on my bicycle. Fortuna and Monteverde are among Costa Rica's top 10 attractions but though they are very close - less than 50 kilometers as the crow flies - there is no direct road connection. Unless you want to ride a horse there are two main options: a five hour bus ride around the large Arenal lake or a two hour alternative through it with a jeep-boat-jeep tour. From the boat I could see the cloud free Arenal volcano which apparently is a rare site, especially during rainy season. Below us were the remains of an abandoned village which had to give way to the artificial lake after the horrible volcano outbreak in 1968. Not many tourists use this combination by bicycle and it was easy to start conversations with other travelers. Two young Texans suggested a hostel and I followed them to the "Sleepers sleep cheap hostel" where they had reserved a room. I was lucky and got a really cheap large suite with my own bar area and a good view for less than 30 $ a day. In the evening I took part in a guided night walk in the cloud forest. Our guide used different techniques to spot the animals: ultraviolet light, a flashlight and a walkie-talkie to communicate discoveries with the other guides. Combined with his experience we spotted many nocturnal and sleeping animals. The first animal we were introduced to was a small frog living in tiny water reserves on leaves. He was of a similar green as the leave itself and without a guide I would have missed it. The ultraviolet light helped to spot several scorpions while the strong flashlight discovered many sleeping birds. I was surprised that the bright light didn't wake them up but maybe they got used to it. But the flashlight of course also worked in the short distance and illuminated scary creatures like spiders, tarantulas and snakes but also a cute sloth and armadillo just a few meters from us. Stressed Londoners could learn from the sloth what relaxation means. But I also learned some surprising facts: younger - and smaller - snakes are more dangerous as they didn't learn yet to control their amount of poison, tarantulas are cannibals who eat their smaller siblings but sometimes even their children and the poor sloth is constantly itching because of a symbiosis with many insects living in its fur. Costa Rica in general and Monteverde in particular are famous for zip-lining which was "invented" in 1997. Composed of steel cables and platforms strung at various heights between trees, they offer tourists a unique means of accessing beautiful and remote natural areas mostly above the canopy of the rainforest. The Original Canopy Tour is still operating today but larger, longer and faster lines have been created in the last decades with Tarzan swings and Superman rides. I chose the Selvatura canopy tour as it is the only provider in the primary rain forest. It’s cables and platforms are built into the cloud forest rather than above it, allowing to feel truly immersed within the forested environment. In total, there are 15 cables and 18 viewing platforms that stretch over three kilometers. With speeds of over 50 kilometers per hour I was a bit scared in the beginning but soon loved flying like a bird through the canopy of the tropical cloud forest. After the bird-eye perspective I walked through the dense forest on hanging bridges. The constant mist and rain produces an abundance of plants. Some trees are covered by up to 100 types of orchids. But there isn't only an abundance of flora but also of fauna and I noticed many different colorful birds. After so much nature my contrast program consisted of downing a few beers with my Texan friends in the evening. In the early 1950s, a group of Quakers from the U.S. left their homes in Alabama to avoid being drafted into the Korean War. Settling in Monteverde they started as farmers with dairy and cheese production which had negative consequences for the cloud forest. Therefore just twenty years later some of these families helped establish the Monteverde Cloud Forest Reserve. Saturday I cycled to this reserve and met Sarah from Switzerland. Together we hiked the different trails through the mystical landscape. One trail led to a viewing point overlooking the watershed between the Atlantic and Pacific Ocean. While we could feel the cold wind from the Atlantic and the warmer breeze from the Pacific unfortunately we didn't see much. But we were lucky to spot two breeding quetzals couples. It's the dream of all ornithologists and most tourists in Central America to spot the colorful but rare quetzal bird. Worshipped by the Maya for its bright green colors and nowadays Guatemala's national bird even Guatemala's currency is named after him. A group of U.S. biology students using binoculars, excitedly whispering and constantly taking notes had drawn our attention to the well hidden nest. The pair was constantly flying in and out in turns, with the other one guarding the nest. M1 and M2 had meanwhile also arrived in Monteverde and we had arranged to meet in the evening. But finally we just met for five minutes as the two of them were in pain and extremely tired. When I arrived I found Melissa asleep in the hostel lobby and when Melanie arrived shortly afterwards they told me that the three day surf course followed by a horse riding adventure was just too much for their bones. Why Melissa, being from Australia, learned to surf in Costa Rica you need to ask her yourself, especially as she lives only a short distance from a perfect beach. As neither of them was able to accompany me I had a tête-à-tête dinner with Sarah. Early Sunday morning I was on my way to Puntarenas. For the first twenty kilometers my rattling bike was slipping over the very stony unpaved road with walking speed. The road condition reminded me of the worst roads in Alaska and Canada. Some even claim that the roads are kept in this poor state to "captivate" the tourists for a longer time in Monteverde once they made the arduous journey. But the views compensated, the traffic was non existent and I preferred this road to the highway like episodes before. But nevertheless what a relieve when the asphalt came back and I could "fly" - especially as it was mostly downhill - towards the coast. Once in my Motel I switched on the air-conditioning and cooled down before going for a swim. The humid heat hit me like a wall - a bit like walking into the tropical house of a botanical garden without an exit. As there are dangerous rip currents in the area I searched for a safe beach. I found one protected by a natural wall of stones which were populated by crayfish while the beach was populated by locals. Monday by lunchtime I reached the beach of Jacó which is well known by Costa Ricans for its wide beach but unfortunately is at the same time full of rather unimpressive - not to say ugly - concrete beachfront hotels. I continued a few kilometers further South where I had the beach to myself. I relaxed in one of the 20 empty deck chairs but five minutes later a young man came and requested a ten $ fee. Being the only person at the beach I refused and substituted the deck chair with a children's plastic slide which was comparable comfortable. While the beach and Motel in Puntarenas were rather ugly I was rewarded with a very nice hotel in Playa Bejuco on Monday night. It was off season but though I was the only guest I couldn't negotiate the price down too much but it was worth every Dollar. It was a beachfront hotel and from the balcony I had the feeling to sit in the midst of the sea. First I had a swim in the open sea, then I swam in the more quiet swimming pool and before dinner I had a beer on the balcony, listening to the sound of the waves crashing at the beach just 30 meters apart. Tuesday was my last beach day of this trip. First I stopped at Dominical - a gringo surfer paradise - which I didn't like too much. I had an overpriced soup in one of the gringo hipster restaurants where at least I could use the free wifi connection for a Skype phone call. Later I stopped at a small shop next to the road for a coke and some biscuits. From my Germanic accent he guessed correctly and played Bavarian brass-band music which I first didn't realize. Asked by the owner what I would prefer instead I mentioned the German techno DJs Sven Väth and Marusha. A few minutes later I was listening to German techno in the middle of nowhere some 10,000 kilometers away from Germany. That night I stayed in Uvita in a rather abandoned bamboo hostel owned by Jesus - not in a religious sense. Most people from the young surfer crowd where staying in a much more expensive party hostel. The afternoon I shared the most beautiful beach I've ever seen with some surfer boys. The waves were rather big but I stayed a long time in the dark blue water watching them catch the surf. From the water the shore looked amazing: a black sky sat enthroned above palm trees and other tropical plants of all shades of green, blue mountains in the background, a yellow beach and white clouds in the sky. I would have loved to capture this on a picture but was to worried to ruin the camera in the water. Wouldn't the approaching thunderstorm have driven me out I could have remained hours in the sea. Wednesday night - my last night in Costa Rica - I stayed in the rather unimpressive and dodgy concrete desert Rio Claro. It was unbelievable humid and hot and while the sweat had dried in my air conditioned room I was wet again immediately while wandering through the center in search of cake. After my five a clock tea it was time to get some proper food in a Chinese restaurant. On the way back to my hotel there were constant thunderstorms bathing the whole sky in flames. A young man on a bike approaches me in a rather dark spot and I suspect the worst. But he was just worried about me and warned me to be careful.

Week 50/52: Nicaragua: Lake Nicaragua and Isla Ometepe (11-17 May) /-/ One theory is that the name Nicaragua was coined by Spanish colonists based upon Nicarao - the name of the local chief at that time - and agua - the Spanish word for water. Whether true or not, at least Central America's largest "water" - lake Nicaragua - is located there. This lake, or rather the Ometepe island with its twin volcanic peaks, was my destiny for a few days. My first stop was a museum built from artifacts found on one farmland. I get a private tour through the several stuffed rooms full of exhibits from the last 3,000 years: shoe-like urns, jewelry, a shaman grave. Artifacts show that trade networks stretched from Tenochtitlán - modern Mexico City - to Colombia, proved e.g. by golden bracelets. My second stop was at the natural park Charco Verde which I explored together with a Czech couple who had rented bikes for the day. Unfortunately the lagoon, the main attraction of the park, was almost dried out. But at least I saw howler monkeys for the first time with my own eyes after having heard them so many times before. A one our drive later I swam in the "Ojo de Agua" a small natural pool with concrete walls filled with crystal clear water from an underground river that comes from the Maderas volcano. After having spent two days at the huge and impressive Laguna de Apoyo I was a bit disappointed but the howler monkeys dashing above my head made up for the rather unimpressive swimming pool. On the way back a small boy accompanied me for a few minutes on his bicycle. It seems like the whole island was playing soccer on this lovely Saturday evening: Each village has its own soccer pitch and was either playing or cheering at their preferred team. I watched a few minutes, stopped at the small airfield where I took a selfie with one of the volcanoes in the background.