#custom dye

This coat?

The first step I’m going to recommend before you do anything is giving it a 4-5 hour soak in hot water and oxiclean, because I’ve seen that do amazing things to stains. You might be able to bring it all the way back to white. Take care when you do any hot water baths with wool, since wool+heat+soap+agitation=felt.

If you’re serious about dyeing this coat, however, doing an extremely careful hot-water soak in Oxi is going to be a good first step, because you’re going to have to do a hot water soak a few times in the dying process, so it’s worth first seeing if you can save it with some careful washing, before you go all out with the dye. Two consecutive soaks in oxiclean took my AP Fairy Princess JSK from gray to white.

Because wool REALLY wants to turn into felt, expecially a high-blend wool like that, here’s what I’d suggest:

Since I always have both on hand, I’d do a 4 hour soak with the regular Oxi, wash and rinse, and then do a second 4 hour soak with Oxi+white. Since I see this recommended so many times and it drives me nuts, let’s stick some bold text here: Oxiclean works because the powder works with water to create a chemical reaction. This reaction only goes on for four hours. There is no difference between soaking something for four hours in oxiclean and soaking it overnight in oxiclean, except that when you soak it overnight you just leave it in dirty water for an additional 8 hours. If you want to soak something overnight in oxiclean, you should dump out all your water and add fresh product every four hours.

So, how to wash wool in hot water without felting it:You’re going to want a bucket (like a medium-sized sterilite bin or a 5 gallon bucket) and a bath tub. Stick your coat in the bucket and cover it with room temperature water. Get every part of it soaked until there are no air pockets. Meanwhile, fill your bath tub ½-¾ of the way full with hot tap water and dump five or six scoops of the regular oxiclean in there. That feels like a WHOLE LOT, but the oxiclean math is one full scoop for four gallons, most bath tubs are 40 gallons, and it’s half full, so you want to go 5 scoops. You can actually go up to 1 scoop for 1 gallon (their top recommended) which comes out about to just dump the whole thing in and see what happens. I’ve found that 5-8 scoops works really well for the average bath tub.

Stir the bath until the oxiclean has all dissolved. Then, take your wet coat out of its room temp water soak, and lay it out on the top of the water. Since it’s wet, it’ll sink and you don’t need to shove it under the water. Now, you have the very difficult job of not touching it for four hours.

When four hours are up, reach into the tub and hold the coat down on the bottom, and then pull the drain. If the water’s too hot for you to touch, just wait until it cools down. The extra soaking time isn’t going to actually clean your coat more, because that reaction’s done, but don’t hurt yourself for the sake of lolita.

Leave the coat on the bottom of the bath tub once it’s drained. This is going to let it drain a little, but it will also let it cool down to room temp, which is the important part. Once it’s not hot to the touch, you can carefully pull it out of the tub (and your bucket from earlier is a fine place to store it for a few minutes), and then wipe out your tub and fill it 6″ or so full with room temp water. Dump in some cool water detergent, dissolve, and then put your (still wet) coat in there. Leave it soaking for a few, then drain it again. Now you can rinse the coat out with cold water. Make sure you get all the soap out, because soap staying in the fibers of your fabric makes your fabric get dirty faster.

Then you just need to dry it flat for however long it takes till it’s dry. Once it’s dry, you can see if you think it still needs to be dyed.

As for dyeing:

A while back, I did a post about dyeing a cotton skirt with RIT. RIT dye is nice and cheap and works on a wide variety of fabric and is available in your local grocery store.

You can use RIT on wool, but you have better luck using a dye that’s meant for wool only. Different fibers take different kinds of dye. While going the fast and cheap route with RIT will work, you’ll definitely benefit from going the slightly more expensive, slower route on something like this.

The good news is that, unlike other synthetics, nylon takes dye super well. I’ve used petal pink dye on a nylon tulle and had it come out neon fuchsia after 1/3rd of the usual processing time. This means that you need to be concerned that your dye will change color and become brighter than you intended. With only a 10% nylon content, you shouldn’t have to worry too much, but it’s worth noting.

Then you’re going to want to get a small bottle of this detergent and about 2oz of one of these (I’d probably go color 458 or 418). These two will run about $9 plus shipping, which is more than a $3 bottle of RIT, but you’ll be getting a dye that is actually made for wool. (If you’re trying to buy things locally, instead of online, look for Synthrapol detergent and Jacquard acid dyes, but I like Dharma’s product better than either of those).

Dharma has instructions here for how to use their acid dyes. They use wool in that how-to, so it’s pretty similar to what you’d do for your coat. If you don’t have a big enough pot to dye it, it might be worth it to pick up a $10 stainless steel stock pot. The thing about dyeing is that you really don’t want to mess it up, especially when you’re dyeing a $400 coat.

The funky thing about dyeing entire garments is that the individual pieces will all take the dye differently. It’s common for stitching to stay white, ribbons to be lighter or darker, and lace to be lighter or darker when you’re done. The key thing is to follow instructions to get the color to take consistently across each piece. If your lace is then darker and your ribbons are lighter and your lining is still white when you’re done, as long as it’s all even (and your left sleeve isn’t a different color from the right one, and there’s no pale or dark patches) it will look intentional.

Dye sublimation printing is one of the most advanced and versatile printing techniques available today. It allows for high-quality, long-lasting prints that won’t fade, crack, or peel over time. Whether you're looking to create custom T-shirts, mugs, tote bags, tumblers, coasters, or other accessories, dye sublimation transfers provide a superior printing solution.

If you want to bring your creative ideas to life, our custom dye sublimation transfers offer the perfect solution for vibrant, professional-grade designs. Whether you are a business owner, a designer, or just someone who loves personalized items, our high-quality sublimation prints will help you achieve the perfect look.

What is Dye Sublimation Printing?

Dye sublimation is a unique printing method that uses heat and pressure to transfer ink onto various surfaces. Unlike traditional printing methods, where ink sits on top of the material, sublimation allows the ink to penetrate the fabric or coating, resulting in a seamless and durable print.

This method is particularly popular for custom apparel and promotional products because it provides high-resolution images with bright colors, smooth gradients, and intricate details. The final product is not only beautiful but also resistant to fading and wear, making it an excellent choice for long-term use.

Why Choose Custom Dye Sublimation Transfers?

Dye sublimation printing stands out from other printing techniques due to its numerous advantages. Here’s why it’s the best option for custom prints:

1. Vivid and Long-Lasting Colors

Sublimation prints are known for their exceptional color vibrancy and clarity. The process allows the ink to become part of the material, ensuring the colors stay bright and do not fade, even after multiple washes.

2. High Durability

Unlike screen printing or vinyl transfers, dye sublimation prints do not crack, peel, or fade over time. The design becomes part of the material, offering superior durability and wear resistance.

3. Versatile Printing Options

Dye sublimation is suitable for a wide range of products, including:

Apparel: T-shirts, hoodies, jerseys, sweatshirts

Drinkware: Mugs, tumblers, water bottles

Accessories: Tote bags, phone cases, coasters, keychains

Home Décor: Pillow covers, fabric posters, wall art

4. Smooth and Soft Finish

Since the ink is infused into the fabric rather than applied on top, the final print feels smooth to the touch. Unlike screen prints or vinyl designs that can feel heavy and stiff, sublimation transfers maintain the fabric’s natural softness.

5. Perfect for Custom Orders

Whether you need a single personalized item or a bulk order for your business, dye sublimation transfers make customization easy. You can print detailed designs, logos, or artwork without worrying about extra setup costs.

6. Cost-Effective for Small and Large Orders

Unlike screen printing, which requires expensive setup costs, sublimation transfers can be printed affordably, even in small quantities. This makes them ideal for personal projects, small businesses, and large-scale production.

How Custom Dye Sublimation Transfers Work

Using dye sublimation transfers is a simple and efficient process. Here’s how it works:

Step 1: Design Preparation

Create your design using graphic design software like Photoshop, Illustrator, or Canva. Make sure your image is high resolution (300 DPI) and in CMYK color mode for the best results.

Step 2: Printing the Transfer

Your design is printed onto special sublimation transfer paper using sublimation ink. This paper holds the design until it is ready to be transferred onto the final product.

Step 3: Heat Press Transfer

The printed transfer paper is placed on the substrate (T-shirt, mug, etc.) and applied with heat and pressure using a heat press machine. The high temperature turns the ink into gas, allowing it to bond with the material’s surface.

Step 4: Cooling and Finishing

Once the heat press process is complete, the transfer paper is removed, revealing a vibrant, full-color design that is permanently embedded into the material.

Compatible Materials for Dye Sublimation Transfers

Dye sublimation works best on polyester and polymer-coated materials. Here are some of the best surfaces for sublimation printing:

100% Polyester Fabrics: The best results are achieved on white or light-colored polyester garments.

Polyester-Coated Blends: Some cotton-polyester blends work for sublimation, but 100% cotton does not hold sublimation ink.

Ceramic Mugs and Drinkware: Must have a polymer coating for sublimation printing to work.

Tote Bags and Accessories: Polyester tote bags and accessories produce excellent results with sublimation transfers.

Coasters and Keychains: Perfect for promotional products and personalized gifts.

Applications of Custom Dye Sublimation Transfers

Dye sublimation printing is widely used in various industries, including:

1. Custom Apparel and Fashion

Sublimation is a popular choice for T-shirts, sportswear, and fashion items due to its high-quality, full-color prints. Many businesses use it for:

Custom graphic T-shirts

Sports jerseys and uniforms

Personalized hoodies and sweatshirts

2. Promotional Products and Branding

Businesses can use sublimation transfers to create branded merchandise, including:

Custom mugs with company logos

Personalized tote bags for events and giveaways

Branded coasters for restaurants and cafes

3. Personalized Gifts and Home Décor

Looking for a unique gift idea? Sublimation prints can be used for:

Custom pillow covers

Personalized wall art and posters

Customized phone cases

4. Small Business and Print-on-Demand Services

If you’re an entrepreneur, dye sublimation transfers offer an easy way to start a print-on-demand business. You can sell customized apparel, accessories, and home décor items without needing to maintain a large inventory.

Tips for Achieving the Best Sublimation Prints

To ensure your sublimation transfers come out perfect every time, follow these best practices:

1. Use High-Quality Sublimation Ink and Paper

Cheap inks and paper can affect print quality. Always use premium sublimation ink and paper for the best results.

2. Print on Light-Colored, Polyester Materials

Sublimation does not work on dark or pure cotton fabrics. Stick to white or light-colored polyester garments for vibrant prints.

3. Adjust Heat Press Settings Properly

The correct temperature, pressure, and time settings are crucial for a successful transfer. Generally, 380-400°F for 45-60 seconds works well for most fabrics.

4. Store Transfer Papers in a Cool, Dry Place

Humidity can affect sublimation transfer paper. Keep them in a sealed container to maintain print quality.

5. Perform Test Prints

Before committing to a large batch, always test print a sample to ensure color accuracy and print quality.

Conclusion

Custom dye sublimation transfers are a game-changer in the world of printing. Whether you’re looking to create personalized gifts, start a small business, or print custom apparel, sublimation offers a high-quality, durable, and cost-effective solution.

With its ability to produce vibrant colors, long-lasting prints, and smooth finishes, dye sublimation is the perfect choice for all your custom printing needs.

Okay, story time: I had this uniqlo jjk shirt but didn’t wear it much because the color isn’t usually my vibe (BUT IT HAS NANAMI SYMBOL 😭💕 so I got it)

Anyway, to make it more wearable, I tried bleach dyeing for the first time and it turned out SO. COOL. Definitely going to wear it more (and now it’s a unique custom version~ 😤😌)

Here’s the tutorial I used:

Preview Textile Group

Our field trip to Preview Textile Group (which is on the 11th floor of the same building MOOD is in) and our guide Jay Grank who showed us his craft of custom dyes and custom prints. If you see something downstairs in MOOD or any other fabric store that you like but would prefer in a different color, go to Preview and they will be able to custom create your fabric for you in whatever color/print you desire.

PV Preview Textile Group

255 West 37th St. 11th Floor

New York, NY 10018

TELE: 212-764-1343

CH.8 Textile Dyeing