What's it for?
For tea.

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What's it for?
For tea.

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Put it in your GOB?
Decoction mashing is a technique often employed in Czech and German breweries. While mashing their grains, brewers draw off a portion of the hot wort and boil it in a separate chamber. Boiling breaks down the grains in the mash further and caramelized some of the sugar. When it is added back to the main wort, the beer takes on some color and flavor but itâs subtle. Decoction is what gives a Czech pilsner itâs darker gold color and adds depth to the malt flavor despite using only the lightest of malts.
To make BEYOB, Wayfinderâs brewers decoct four separate portions from the main beer. The result is a deep, reddish brown dopplebock with a great depth of flavor. At first it tastes like a lighter, cleaner porter â slight notes of caramel and chocolate. But it opens up over time revealing hidden depths of rye bread, speckles of toasted walnut, and a sprinkle of plump raisins. Itâs tasty.
Ready to go again . . .
The Horror!
We are in the midst of a Pilsner renaissance. The style which was once the epitome of corporate beer is suddenly ultra-hip. Every cool brewery makes a handful of IPAs, a barrel aged stout, and a Pilsner. In order to move the trend even further, brewers from Wayfinder, Modern Timesâ Portland outpost, and Heater Allen made Terrifico, which they describe as an âItalian Style Horror Pils.â Apparently the Italians are making good pils.
In the Beer Bible, Jeff Alworth spent a whole chapter on emerging trends in Italian beer. One of the touchstones of the Italian brewing is Tipopils, brewed by Birrificio Italiano since the 1990s. Itâs a straightforward pils but bent slightly to reveal new flavors. Where traditional pilsners are fermented cold, some near freezing, Tipopils is fermented warm allowing the yeast to form fruity esters and a fuller body. And while itâs fermenting, Tipopils is hit with two separate dry hopping charges, comepletely unheard of in a Pilsner. But itâs not like they use American hops. Tipopils uses all German hops for a super herbal, spicy flavor.Â
Terrifico follows the same rule book. Over a base of light Pilsner malt, brewers added tons of Tettnanger and Spalter hops in the kettle and then dry-hopped with Polaris hops, a German variety released in 2012 known for its extremely high alpha acid content. The 4.7% ABV is met with a surprising 42 IBUs. Terrifico is gold, brilliantly clear, and bursting with herbal aromas. It smells like a hybrid herb: half mint, half basil. The flavor is crisp and spicy with a finish like an organic cleaning spray. The malt backbone is crackery like a saltine. Itâs really hoppy, but lacks the usual dankness and fruit youâd find in an IPA.
Liquid Sunshine
There is nothing like a crisp Pils after a long day in the sun. Pilsner has a proud heritage, but the name was sullied by Miller Lite and its ilk. Pilsner was a buzzword, appended to boring beer to make it seem exotic. Itâs taken decades, but now Pilsner is regaining its proper place. Authentic Czech Pilsner is on grocery shelves. Breweries across the country are making faithful recreations of the European originals. And a few are adding their own twists.
Breaksideâs Pilsner is as crisp as any -- cereal sweetness followed by dry herby bitterness. But Itâs a little hoppier than your average lager. Not too hoppy. A hint of Yakima Valley hops -- an American terroir if you will. A squeeze of lemon, maybe. A smidgen of something wild. Thereâs a lot going on just below the surface, which is exactly what I want when the temperatures start to climb. A refreshing beer thatâs more complicated than it seems.

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Old Portland
Kells Irish Pub is a Portland institution. The downtown bar encompasses almost an entire city block with all sorts of banquet rooms and drinking nooks. Itâs an Irish themed pub on the edge of the weekend âentertainment district.â You get a mix of tourists, step dancers, rowdy townies, bachelor parties, and drunks.
About four years ago, in a stroke of genius, they opened a brewery uptown, to supply Celtic brews with a more reasonable margin.  Thatâs where we spent our Saturday afternoon, raising money for BonZeb, Inc -- creators of sustainable charcoal in Haiti -- and sipping pints on the patio.Â
The beer selection is surprisingly varied. Though they serve three IPAs -- as all Portland bars must -- the menu includes two lagers and five beers under five percent alcohol.Â
I started the afternoon with the nutty Irish Red Ale. Itâs only four and a half percent, which might add to itâs flavor. When you imperialize a red ale, you lose some of that subtle flavor. Still, it tastes more American than European, but I thought it was a nice intro to the brewery.
Somehow, the Irish Style Lager is a traditional Bohemian style beer. Unless you werenât sure: yes Bohemia is not part of Ireland. Itâs a clean beer, crisp. But tastes more Bavarian than Bohemian to me. It has a weird fruitiness. Is that a banana? Huh.
Kells, being the largest Irish pub in the city, is a huge purveyor of Guinness. When they opened a brewery, it was both inevitable they would make an Irish stout, and understandable that they wouldnât want to undercut their best selling product. Kells Irish Stout isnât an exact clone, but it could make a Dubliner do a  double take. Itâs got that roasted, vegetative flavor you expect. And that nitrogen infused creaminess.
The other beers on offer got mixed reviews from my tablemates. But the beer was never the reason to come. Kells is comfortable. It feels more inviting than lots of Portlandâs more famous breweries. Itâs not a plastic facsimile of a pub.  It is a pub. A very clean pub, but a pub nonetheless. And theyâll host a fundraiser for your dadâs nonprofit.
New on the Shelf
Itâs that time again, there are new bottles from pFriem on the shelf and we are going to try them.Â
The Helles Lager is a nice summery slurper. Itâs crisp and itâs clean. The all grain grist gives it a little sweetness, just enough. It tastes like cereal. Like multigrain cheerios. Multigrain cheerios with an herbal topping. LIke a savory breakfast.
The Brett Wit on the other hand does not deliver on its name. Itâs neither wheat-y nor yeasty. I get vague impressions of Belgium on the nose, light phenol notes. It tastes completely normal, no wild funk. I taste crappy orange slices. Like a soggy navel orange slice. But the body is very dry, and there is an interesting hint at lemongrass.
All right. Good effort guys, see you again in a month.
A Pacifico by Any Other Name Tastes as Sweet
What makes a lager Mexican? I mean aside from the obvious. When you brew a lager north of the border how do you make it taste Mexican? Maybe itâs the corn.
Ex Novoâs The Most Interesting Lager in the World is brewed with pilsner and Vienna malts and, of course, flaked corn. Itâs crisp and sweet, but in a good way. I know plenty of voracious beer nerds who have a singlular macro love. Maybe it reminds them of college, or a particularly eventful vacation. Maybe they just like the taste of corn.